legendswraith

ask tony for a recommendation for the geo as its a long drive from Glasgow to Hemel Humpstead, get your tyres off ebay/blackcircles etc most places charge about 40-50 to fit and balance and toyo's arent a bad tyre and mine were cheaper than that

Right do not sign the NIP send it back with a covering letter basically stating that you do not recall being in that place at the time of the alledged offence and you cannot complete the NIP and admit guilt as you may not have been the driver nor can you say you were not, and ask for pictures of the alledged offence. When you get the pictures if its you basically you are screwed, if you are not visible driving or obscured and theres any doubt you could be the driver i'd be tempted to push my luck. Granted this is not watertight but all you have to do is give reasonable doubt. Remember there are alot of cloned cars out there ;) This isn't a get out clause to speed btw i just despise the revenue cameras and think its about time common sense came back into it.

i agree head gasket failure you'd notice on levels. Think the crux is to find out if its steam or smoke, once thats established it'll be easier to see whats occurring. If its steam looks like its a normality for the IS if its smoke i reckon you are running too rich

If the car was illegally parked and blocking your access inform your insurance company about it. It may be cynical to do it but they shouldn't have been there in the first place. Wouuldn't suprise me if they refuse to pay out

yes open tap on rad and drain out don't put water in it though put for life coolant in there from toyota ;)

If its a case of low power and increased consumption and hoofing out white smoke at all occasions i'd be very worried if it was normal. Wasn't sure if it was MAF or MAP on the IS but that clears it up. If the smoke smells "sweet" then its definately coolant

Online gaming is the road to hell i spent far too long playing Warcraft so i refuse to get the xbox connected online i'd never be off soulcaliber4

post on the c l u b a r i s t o forums i'm sure someone has one

white smoke can be caused in several ways. If you aren't losing oil and theres no smell from the smoke then that discounts oil. That leaves air/fuel ratio which would be indicated by high consumption and low power (is the car choking constantly?) and the other one is coolant burn if theres a crack or a gasket leak burning coolant will produce white smoke as well. Are you topping up the rad alot or losing coolant at all? Hopefully its not the coolant one in which case i'd look at the MAF and the lambdas to see if they were functioning correctly. Have you taken it to have the codes read from the OBD might save alot of time 'HIgh consumption/low' power is correct - the rad is not losing any coolant - that leaves the MAF and the lambdas but what are these??? And what's the OBD? As you can tell I am not too literate in these terms - thank you for you help, further assistance would be great, thanks. THe MAF sensor is a little black sensor that sits on the intake just behind the air filter box/assembly it measures mass air flow and temperature of the intake it thats not functioning correctly that will throw the fuelling out. The lambda sensors are a set of probes that sit in the exhaust on and behind the manifold and measure the o2 content of the exhaust gasses, a lambda failure would probably have more effect than the maf tbh. OBD is the on board diagnostics if you take the car into lexus/toyota they will be able to read the codes from it and might be able to tell you straight away whats failed. I'd suggest going to get the codes read first then if needs be do the replacements, lambda sensors can be gotten fairly cheaply but a MAF or piece of electrickery may sting you

white smoke can be caused in several ways. If you aren't losing oil and theres no smell from the smoke then that discounts oil. That leaves air/fuel ratio which would be indicated by high consumption and low power (is the car choking constantly?) and the other one is coolant burn if theres a crack or a gasket leak burning coolant will produce white smoke as well. Are you topping up the rad alot or losing coolant at all? Hopefully its not the coolant one in which case i'd look at the MAF and the lambdas to see if they were functioning correctly. Have you taken it to have the codes read from the OBD might save alot of time

system is self bleeding or should be. worst comes to the worst park the car on an incline or jack the front up, remove the rad cap and run it gently for a while with the heater on. With the rad cap as the highest point it will encourage any air to exit that way. Other than that drain and refill the system

there was a black on on ebay breaking

I assume by "disengage" you mean the engine revs drop off back to around 600ish then theres a pause before it starts pick up to the revs for when the air con cuts in. There is a sensor actually on the aircon compressor but it would be a bit of a trial and error swap to find the fault as i don't know the aircon circuit. If you look here theres a few diagrams may give you some clues http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_1995_LEXU...QFW_8719.2.html

apparently it doesn't turn it off fully, there is still some interaction. However i only speak from information read not from experience may well be that the post facelift models it does work

np hope it works

from what i have gathered you cannot turn off traction control on jz161 lexus/aristo's, someone on the aristo forums was asking about it and as yet there isn't a box of tricks to bypass it. there is a post on the aristo forums of some buttons to press but i don't think there has been any success yet

nah its the 3 miles of traffic stuck behind you on a single carriageway that needs the anger management therapy

Every one should be there no excuses folks. We need the dates so I can book my super dooper caravan again. If we get the dates before the end of the year I'll save £40 on the price of the caravan . Then more money for Stella :yahoo: As long as its not baltic or a mudbath i'll be there either with LOC or Aristo

its a good example really. Small business and independants have to go beyond the norm as its word of mouth that spreads reputation and one bad review can undo alot of good work. Mind you if i were you i would have called in trading standards on the other audio company if their work was that shoddy, but then i'm vindictive

think denso make them for everyone anyway so it doesnt really matter

you taking pictures of them taking pictures of you won't that set up a paradox and end the world?

just do what you normally do tony, you'll be fine.

Information from this forum has also been passed on to other geometry establishments. What to do is send an email out to every geo place in the UK and get them a ban . Then when they have to come back to you for more work you put them on a special hourly rate of say 3x the normal :winky:

Thats an excellent reply :) Thanks very much. From reding thru, it sounds like the accumalator knackered then.. As the pump is working nearly constantly without me even touching the brake pedal.. It's just buzzing at 1 second intervals... If i push and hold my foot on the brake pedal it then buzzys constantly for around 8-10 seconds then returns to the 1 second intervals, and i can feel it pulsing thru the brake pedal ... Does anyone know if he accumalator for a GS300 will fit ? Cheers WODJ If its a turbo aristo no if its a n/a aristo yes its the same. If you have a nitrogen backed system though you must have the TT

yep it will be the same i jsut checked it out only difference may be if you have the mark levinson one http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_1994_LEXU....html?hl=86160B http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_2002_LEXU....html?hl=86160B links to the 2 cars parts catalogue i'll pull it anyway and let you decide later