legendswraith
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Posts posted by legendswraith
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Right do not sign the NIP send it back with a covering letter basically stating that you do not recall being in that place at the time of the alledged offence and you cannot complete the NIP and admit guilt as you may not have been the driver nor can you say you were not, and ask for pictures of the alledged offence.
When you get the pictures if its you basically you are screwed, if you are not visible driving or obscured and theres any doubt you could be the driver i'd be tempted to push my luck. Granted this is not watertight but all you have to do is give reasonable doubt.
Remember there are alot of cloned cars out there ;)
This isn't a get out clause to speed btw i just despise the revenue cameras and think its about time common sense came back into it.
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very much doubt HG failure,
levels are the constant .
johny
i agree head gasket failure you'd notice on levels. Think the crux is to find out if its steam or smoke, once thats established it'll be easier to see whats occurring. If its steam looks like its a normality for the IS if its smoke i reckon you are running too rich
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I paid £100 for the rear corner of our Porsche's bumper to be sprayed, they endud up doing halt the bumper and you can't tell it has ever been sprayed. Contact a smart reparer they are far cheaper then a body shop.
If the car was illegally parked and blocking your access inform your insurance company about it. It may be cynical to do it but they shouldn't have been there in the first place. Wouuldn't suprise me if they refuse to pay out
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How easy is it to drain all the water/coolant/anitfreeze out of the system? is it just a case of undoing the bleed on the rad waiting for it all to pour out, and then re-filling?
Thinking it's about time to put clean water into the system as it's not been done since i've had it (21months) and it's anyones guess when it was last done if ever.
Cheers.
yes open tap on rad and drain out don't put water in it though put for life coolant in there from toyota ;)
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i get it, esp in the cold weather..its normal..looks quite kool! lol
If its a case of low power and increased consumption and hoofing out white smoke at all occasions i'd be very worried if it was normal.
Wasn't sure if it was MAF or MAP on the IS but that clears it up.
If the smoke smells "sweet" then its definately coolant
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Online gaming is the road to hell i spent far too long playing Warcraft so i refuse to get the xbox connected online i'd never be off soulcaliber4
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Ah... yes i guess it should be in the wanted section!
I cant see a black breaker on ebay
post on the c l u b a r i s t o forums i'm sure someone has one
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I have a 2002 Lexus IS200 which seems to have lost its power - For a 153 BHP it is very slow...- with 115k and FSH - there is continuous smoke coming from the exhaust, it is misty white and is thicker when I press the accelerator.
I have had a full service with new filters, oil and plugs but hasn't solved anything. It is not losing any oil. It starts and drives fine but everytime I look in the rear view mirror, especially stationary, the smoke is there and obvious rising like a menace, especially when I look at other cars exhaust and they dont smoke like mine does.
Maybe the oil/petrol mixture is off or the CAT is faulty or something - can someone please help me understand what the problem is as I would really appreciate any feedback.
Thank you.
white smoke can be caused in several ways. If you aren't losing oil and theres no smell from the smoke then that discounts oil. That leaves air/fuel ratio which would be indicated by high consumption and low power (is the car choking constantly?) and the other one is coolant burn if theres a crack or a gasket leak burning coolant will produce white smoke as well. Are you topping up the rad alot or losing coolant at all?
Hopefully its not the coolant one in which case i'd look at the MAF and the lambdas to see if they were functioning correctly. Have you taken it to have the codes read from the OBD might save alot of time
'HIgh consumption/low' power is correct - the rad is not losing any coolant - that leaves the MAF and the lambdas but what are these??? And what's the OBD? As you can tell I am not too literate in these terms - thank you for you help, further assistance would be great, thanks.
THe MAF sensor is a little black sensor that sits on the intake just behind the air filter box/assembly it measures mass air flow and temperature of the intake it thats not functioning correctly that will throw the fuelling out. The lambda sensors are a set of probes that sit in the exhaust on and behind the manifold and measure the o2 content of the exhaust gasses, a lambda failure would probably have more effect than the maf tbh. OBD is the on board diagnostics if you take the car into lexus/toyota they will be able to read the codes from it and might be able to tell you straight away whats failed.
I'd suggest going to get the codes read first then if needs be do the replacements, lambda sensors can be gotten fairly cheaply but a MAF or piece of electrickery may sting you
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I have a 2002 Lexus IS200 which seems to have lost its power - For a 153 BHP it is very slow...- with 115k and FSH - there is continuous smoke coming from the exhaust, it is misty white and is thicker when I press the accelerator.
I have had a full service with new filters, oil and plugs but hasn't solved anything. It is not losing any oil. It starts and drives fine but everytime I look in the rear view mirror, especially stationary, the smoke is there and obvious rising like a menace, especially when I look at other cars exhaust and they dont smoke like mine does.
Maybe the oil/petrol mixture is off or the CAT is faulty or something - can someone please help me understand what the problem is as I would really appreciate any feedback.
Thank you.
white smoke can be caused in several ways. If you aren't losing oil and theres no smell from the smoke then that discounts oil. That leaves air/fuel ratio which would be indicated by high consumption and low power (is the car choking constantly?) and the other one is coolant burn if theres a crack or a gasket leak burning coolant will produce white smoke as well. Are you topping up the rad alot or losing coolant at all?
Hopefully its not the coolant one in which case i'd look at the MAF and the lambdas to see if they were functioning correctly. Have you taken it to have the codes read from the OBD might save alot of time
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No one else had this?
system is self bleeding or should be. worst comes to the worst park the car on an incline or jack the front up, remove the rad cap and run it gently for a while with the heater on. With the rad cap as the highest point it will encourage any air to exit that way. Other than that drain and refill the system
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Maybe this should be in the "wanted" section?
there was a black on on eBay breaking
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My series 1 GS300 has a problem with it's AC. It switches on fine but then only runs for 10 seconds before disengaging the compressor. It then stays off for 30-40 seconds and then starts again, but only for the same 10 seconds. It keeps on doing this in the same cycling pattern.
Lexus looked at it today and re-gassed it as they said there was some air in the system but drove 30 miles after and problem remains. I don't think they have the ability to diagnose. Before I took it to Lexus I got Kwik-Fit to re-gas the system so I am confident that gas is not the problem.
As the compressor engages and does it's job i.e. it cools the air very well, my guess is that it may be a faulty sensor telling the compressor to switch off prematurely. This only a guess as I don't pretend to know about this aspect of cars, although I am somewhat interested in mechanicals in general. Hate cars with sensors all over the place. They can ruin a good car.
Am at a bit of a loss. If Lexus can't help, where else do I go? Changed the AC relay just to eliminate it and it is not faulty.
If anybody can shed some light I would be most grateful.
Regards to all.
I assume by "disengage" you mean the engine revs drop off back to around 600ish then theres a pause before it starts pick up to the revs for when the air con cuts in. There is a sensor actually on the aircon compressor but it would be a bit of a trial and error swap to find the fault as i don't know the aircon circuit.
If you look here theres a few diagrams may give you some clues http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_1995_LEXU...QFW_8719.2.html
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I just checked the Owners Manual for the GS300/430 series 2 from 2001.Page 194 states :
You can turn off the vehicle stability control systemby pushing the VSC OFF switch. The VSC OFF indicator comes on. At this time, the traction control system also turns off.
Not sure if this applies to pre facelift models before November 2000 though.
apparently it doesn't turn it off fully, there is still some interaction. However i only speak from information read not from experience may well be that the post facelift models it does work
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Hi!
Well when I eventually had a closer look it seems I DIDN"T blow it after all - just that the sealant had died, so I used some gunk a friend recommended and kinda sealed it back down.
Have to wait 24 hours before I test it out - but I think it should be OK.
I will reduce the bass a few notches though!
Thanks for your help and I will let you know how it goes...
np hope it works
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from what i have gathered you cannot turn off traction control on jz161 lexus/aristo's, someone on the aristo forums was asking about it and as yet there isn't a box of tricks to bypass it. there is a post on the aristo forums of some buttons to press but i don't think there has been any success yet
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This geeza sounds a right :tsktsk: ing :tsktsk: nt ,and are you sure you bent the top mount or was it like it already and that's why it wouldn't budge,but what I really want to know is how the :tsktsk: ck do you deal with :tsktsk: ers like this all I'd want to do is drag him round the back for a taking the :tsktsk: lesson especially after he asked for fuel money,but maybe thats why I'm a truck driver having anger management therapy :D
nah its the 3 miles of traffic stuck behind you on a single carriageway that needs the anger management therapy
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if I can, I will be there :)
Every one should be there no excuses folks.
We need the dates so I can book my super dooper caravan again.
If we get the dates before the end of the year I'll save £40 on the price of the caravan
.Then more money for Stella
:yahoo:As long as its not baltic or a mudbath i'll be there either with LOC or Aristo
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tony has done an awsome job.. i had a customer in a similar way..
He brought a car in for an install.. i gave the quote he was happy..
Dropped the car off for a week to get the install made etc...
Day one was supposed to be stripdown, run wiring.. get full dimensions and start building..
Was shocked to find botched job after botch job in the areas i was due to work, called him and said i would get it sorted as as people had blatently been ripping him off in the past..
Spend 2 full days rectifying the problems and damage other people had caused..got on with the build.. documented everything.. cleaned up the second hand Genisis & jl audio equipment that he brought in for me to fit (was in a bad state & he had paid more second hand than if new)
the deadline was for a show, called him two days before to say that although i could get the install finished he would have to bring it back for final wiring etc to which he agreed.. i would have had it done were it not for the rectification works which i undertook (at no extra cost)
He took the car away really happy... then against my phonecall he took it to a local audio shop (the ones who supplied him the s/h audio) who convinced him that the boxes would explode as i had not put a piece of MDF between the double inverted sub box (even though the design had been aproved by the JL audio engineers.....).. so they RIPPED and i do mean ripped it all out...and this box was excessively well fabricated and sealed... smashed a piece of MDF into the box.. charged him £100 for the privilage! then proceeded to connect the wires.. again the wiring was 90% complete but i had not terminated to amps and batteries... but had ensured that all earths etc were perfect with multimeters... i had run everything in 0 gauge wire too..so it was more than capable of running 3 genisis amps..
they then charged him £180 as i had not earthed at all... so to demonstrate this lack of earth they showed him how the sterio didnt sound perfect (they adjusted all the levels wrong) but where he was dim he didnt realise that if there was no earth then the amps wouldnt have worked at all..... so they "earthed it" and returned the levels to normal...
in the meantime they damaged everthing.. the metal work, the install.. carpeting/trimming etc..
He believed their word for gospel even though physics would prove otherwise... so in haste i agreed to do some extra work for free to make him happy.. fearing bad press at the hands of this bad audio retailer. made not a single bit of proffit on the job in the end.. and he still sat there bad mouthing my company quoting the physicaly impossible scenarios that this audio company had told him with which to extract further ££££
I lost about £10k worth of pre booked jobs also due to it...
from then on i always kept online photo logs of all jobs.. so people could see what i did publicly and never had anything after that.. lesson learnt.. dont help retards!
The problem when you are dealing with idiots is they dont understand reason (or apparently physics).. they have mouths the size of dustbins...
And tony has done the right thing in a way.. its a shame it has cost him.. but it was a damage limitation exercise.. and so far so good.
sorry for the ramble
its a good example really. Small business and independants have to go beyond the norm as its word of mouth that spreads reputation and one bad review can undo alot of good work. Mind you if i were you i would have called in trading standards on the other audio company if their work was that shoddy, but then i'm vindictive
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anyone have any ideas which sparkplugs would be the best for my is200, i know they should be iridium tipped but im not sure which is the best brand.
think denso make them for everyone anyway so it doesnt really matter
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Cheers guys...... I've asked Mark@ wim to take some pictures of them taking pictures :duh: ...... you know what i mean... I'll post them up assuming i live through the interview.
you taking pictures of them taking pictures of you won't that set up a paradox and end the world?
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JP are bringing a car down tomorrow for us to calibrate, explaining what we're doing and why as part of a centre profile, i've done two before, one was for Mazda and one for Lotus but both of these were club mags. For some reason i'm cacking it with a national mag.
Wish me luck.....
just do what you normally do tony, you'll be fine.
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I personaly will be writing to the pope asking for Tony to be Sainted!
Amazing customer service... even though he was a nightmare of a customer.
I personaly would impliment a small disclaimer for any works of that type...
And get some decent CCTV internaly with Voice recording... could save you a fortune!
I shall now refer to you as Saint Tony of WIM if you dont mind
Information from this forum has also been passed on to other geometry establishments. What to do is send an email out to every geo place in the UK and get them a ban
. Then when they have to come back to you for more work you put them on a special hourly rate of say 3x the normal :winky: -
The noise is the pump which pressurises a nitrogen-filled accumulator with brake fluid.
When you brake the pressure in the accumulator is used up.
Once the pressure drops far enough, the pump runs to re-pressurize the accumulator.
If the buzzing is loud, it may be because the pump's rubber mounts need replacing.
If the pump operates more than once every four or five applications of the brake, the accumulator may need replacing.
Soarer Central -- Removing/Recharging the TRC Nitrogen Accumulator
Soarer World -- TRC Accumulator 1
Soarer World -- TRC Accumulator 2
Planet Soarer -- Common problem #9 - Brake discs, fluid bleed, and booster accumulator
Thats an excellent reply :) Thanks very much.
From reding thru, it sounds like the accumalator knackered then.. As the pump is working nearly constantly without me even touching the brake pedal..
It's just buzzing at 1 second intervals... If i push and hold my foot on the brake pedal it then buzzys constantly for around 8-10 seconds then returns to the 1 second intervals, and i can feel it pulsing thru the brake pedal ...
Does anyone know if he accumalator for a GS300 will fit ?
Cheers
WODJ
If its a turbo aristo no if its a n/a aristo yes its the same. If you have a nitrogen backed system though you must have the TT
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aha! Well I will try and find out if it's the same one! Cheers
yep it will be the same i jsut checked it out only difference may be if you have the mark levinson one
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_1994_LEXU....html?hl=86160B
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_2002_LEXU....html?hl=86160B
links to the 2 cars parts catalogue
i'll pull it anyway and let you decide later
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:yahoo:
Camber Wear
in Wheels & Tyres
Posted
ask tony for a recommendation for the geo as its a long drive from Glasgow to Hemel Humpstead, get your tyres off ebay/blackcircles etc most places charge about 40-50 to fit and balance and toyo's arent a bad tyre and mine were cheaper than that