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normski2 last won the day on October 27 2016

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About normski2

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    is250SEL mm Auto
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  1. Here is useful video too. If you just want to see the mirror parts skip forward to around 7 mins and 10 secs.
  2. Noobie has put a (very good it is too) list encompassing the whole range of years really. There will be little differences from year to year when facelifts occurred. For example from 09 to 10 the facelift had a USB in the armrest and sat nav changed from disc to HDD. Some items are continuous though. The good old calipers need to be checked regularly. Lexus don't include these on their servicing schedules...they just expect you to fork out for new ones every so often. My advice would be do it yourself or get a reliable indy to do it for you. Yep the alloys are naff for longevity...had mine redone a while back (18 months or so) and now they are perfect. Well , apart from my nick on the front wheel in a underground car park in France....Grrrrrr. I doubt you'll see any exhaust problems on a car that young in miles, but, hey ho you never know. The 250 section is full of helpful folk who enjoy their cars. Fine cars they are too. Like mine very much indeed. Best of luck with your search. Take your time and get the one you want.
  3. Yeah those White Walkers are pretty scary..... and now they have a dragon!!!!! I'll get my coat!
  4. I just used a piece of pipe over the handle of my socket wrench and that gave me the added leverage. They are very tight to move ...... and then suddenly spin mind those fingers. Either socket will do the job. The direct type will be the one particularly for the downstream sensors. They are located on the exhaust piping right under your seat ... so to speak! Bank 1 Sensor 1 is dead easy and will likely take 15 mins. Any longer will be the grunt required to loosen the old one. Bank 2 Sensor 1 is a bit of a pig. It is well and truly obstructed. You will have to remove the battery and the trays and electrics below it. This will give you the access you need but its still pretty awkward pushing the plug connector home as it sits at the back of the block. Read both Noobie and my accounts that should give you all the insights you need. I seem to recall it took me about 3-4 hours to do both sensors. Bank 2 Sensor 1 was a toad to undo. I must have grunted for nigh on 15-20 minutes just getting the damned thing to loosen. Give both a squirt or 5 of WD40 or Plusgas etc etc for a couple of days before you plan to do them. Hopefully it may just get into the threads a bit. Loctite is fine for the threads on the PCV valve. You will have the room to get at the PCV when you are doing Bank 2 Sensor 1. So do it at the same time. There should be a small tube of copper grease in with the sensor. If not, you will need a smidge on the lower threaded portion to prevent seizing of the threads. That little plastic shield protects the sealing compound at the head of the threads ...its a bit like a sticky, grey-coloured mastic.
  5. Nice looking motor. You will love it I'm sure. It will be like gliding around on Aladdin's carpet. If I was going to suggest anything I'd recommend getting yearly checks done on the greasing of the caliper slide pins. If you are at all mechanically minded and enjoy a bit of spannering then do it yourself. There are some very good guides here on the forum and it's not that difficult. The correct grease MUST be used. I can point you at the guides if you want to view them. Lexus don't even look at servicing of calipers they just want them to seize and then charge you a premium for changing them. Failing that use a reliable indy who knows what needs doing and how to do it correctly.
  6. Just been out to the car in tea break and taken some piccies. Both sensor levelling brackets are on the passenger side. FRONT SENSOR REAR SENSOR Best shot I could get from lying on the road! Hope that helps
  7. The rear one is definitely on the passenger side. I remember that well as I crawled under the car to look at it. The front...I honestly can't remember. I think it was passenger side. It's pretty obvious when you see it. There are photos of them on the US site. Both mine were fine. Solved the problem with the beam adjuster cog wheels. Also ended up with much better beam pattern and much improved road illumination.
  8. These posts are useful too. Sorry its taken a while to come back to you ....looks like my graphics card on my PC at home has died. Thankfully I have the trusty steed at work!!
  9. You can turn the wheel to get a look at the front sensor. You can see the rear by crawling under but its a bit tight. Putting one wheel up on the kerb can help. headlight aim Headlight_aim.pdf Mark out the grid on a board. Find the two adjusters on each headlight. The one at an angle almost under the wing is the hardest to find. Use a 150mm pozi 2 extension in a battery drill on slow speed. At least that's what i did. There are a couple of useful guides on the US forum.
  10. Can someone tell you the original reg plate detail? I kept all my original plate detail (and the plates). Usually, the original number would be re-assigned back to the car it came from. At least that was what DVLA told me when i put my private plate on this car.
  11. Nice set of wheels sir. Yep 35 front and 38 rear. Keep a close eye on the inside edges of both fronts. You can get scary wear if the alignment is out. Tyres for these are not particularly cheap!
  12. There are some useful videos on Youtube that show how to remove the centre console of both Manual and auto transmission cars. One of these should do it for you. I would use plastic pry tools though ... be very very careful using an unprotected screwdriver blade. You can use screwdrivers but wrap the blade in tape (masking or electrical type).
  13. You'll probably find the window buttons are fine after the battery change as you have a 2010 model. My old 2007 model had to be resynced, but the 2010 I have now took care of itself. They must have changed something with the facelift version. My battery was out for about 3 hours when I did my oxygen sensors and the windows worked perfect straight from the off. Drape an old sheet or large towel over the wing so you don't inadvertantly scratch your wing with a fly zip tag or denim stud. The battery is quite a heavy lump and you have to get under the angle of the bonnet. Perfect back tweaking position!!!! Re-attach positive first, then negative and put a smear of petroleum jelly over. Radio pre-sets and memory seats will have to be reset though.
  14. Here's another for the list Shaun Oil Filter Removal tool You'll need one of these to remove the oil filter. Made by the likes of Sealey/ Draper etc and found on Amazon and Ebay. A 600mm breaker bar may come in handy too they are often over tightened. They can be undone using the square drive port on the tool but it's better to use a socket if you have one to hand. There is a danger of splitting the square drive port with excessive force. The sump plug washer should be a fibre type with an aluminium core.
  15. Brake pad advice

    Make sure you keep an eye on those slide pins. I've just done mine again at the weekend. Doing them twice a year now. Newbie has put up an excellent guide to brake pads, slide pins and discs too. Worth searching out. You can get perfectly good deals on brake parts in the UK...the offers are always spooling around. I was getting the Oxygen sensors from Rockauto in the USA. I noticed a bit of caliper/pad/ironware noise on Thurs last week when reversing and braking uphill on my drive. This time I have put a tiny smidge of copper grease at the point where the bolt passes through the back edge of the pad (on the rear calipers) just to see if that snagged it. It seems to have as its been silent since. Only use the Red Toyota grease or a recognized slide pin grease. Standard LM grease is no good at all. Once you've done it a couple of times you'll get all 4 done in an hour or so. Check these out