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normski2

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normski2 last won the day on October 27 2016

normski2 had the most liked content!

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About normski2

  • Rank
    Club Post Guru

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  • First Name
    Normski

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Lexus Model
    is250SEL mm Auto
  • Year of Lexus
    2010
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Dorset
  • Contributor
    3
  1. If you press DISP there are options for brightness, etc and I think there is button for map off. Guessing that is what was meant.
  2. Somewhere ...... on one of my PC's is a description of how to locate and adjust your headlights .. If you want a copy I'll dig it out and put it up for you. I found it very useful when I checked mine. They were set too low and are now much much better. You just need a good flat surface to park the car on and a perpendicular/flat surface to project the beams against at either 10' or 25' away. Did mine in the factory one evening in the winter. If its dark enough you can use a wall or similar outside too. If you want to do this you will find it much easier with a cordless drill and a 150mm Pozidrive extension piece. Use a nice gentle slow speed and you can visibly see the beam moving up/down or left/right. Don't try it by hand as it will take so many turns to see movement ... your wrist will tire before you've achieved anything. The adjuster for up and down is easy to see with the side cover removed. But the left/right adjuster is somewhat hidden down an angled tube ...sounds odd but once you've found it it's easy.. There is a good youtube video showing the adjusters ...again, I have a link somewhere.
  3. There are two adjustment ratchets on each headlight unit. One is for up and down The other is for side to side
  4. Cheers. Just remember ....if you use hammerite .... recoat within the hour and if it goes beyond 3 hours you need to leave it for 6 weeks for full cure to be attained, or your next coat will have an adverse effect on the paint thats already there...ie it can wrinkle and spoil it. Personally I prefer brushing it on so you can keep clear of rubber collars.
  5. Pretty sure that Lexus schedule the air filter for every 35,000 miles ..... which is completely bonkers. I do mine every 12 months or so but check every 6 just to be sure. Buying elsewhere they are around £12-15. The cabin filter is as little as £7.
  6. Does the job give you a better income .... To the tune of £300 a month? Needs a bit of careful thought this one. Do you want to be driving 140 miles per day? My son did similar for nearly a year........ he now has a job elsewhere. The daily mileage was taking its toll on him. I'm going to ponder your dilemma whilst I watch a bunch of twits in Tuscany. I will be amazed if 60 odd mpg in a is300 is realistic. I certainly did not get anywhere near that when I dem'd one. Think it was 43.
  7. If you ask them they can and should print you out the whole list. If not give you a link where you can download and print off yourself.
  8. Yes .... very much so. The fronts can be separated by removing two bolts. Before you start , take a photo that you can refer back to to ascertain which parts are visible when the whole is assembled. You then clean up...wire brush, sand and solvent degrease. Paint the top half and rest it down onto a flower pot or paint tin and set about painting the carrier. This is exactly how I did my fronts. I only completely removed the rears as I needed to do some thorough remedial work on them. Remove one bolt and the rears can be split for painting. See noobies guide for greasing the front and rear calipers for some excellent pictures and the routine required to complete the job. Here
  9. Me too, this colour works well with the mud flaps. I got mine from a really trader on eBay, he had every car covered. Then suddenly vanished......shame. If I see any I'll send you the link. I've seen more from time to time. Its not a particularly difficult job. Familiarity with greasing the slide pins in the calipers is a good thing to get to grips with. This will lead to easing changing of brake pads. Then when you have done this you'll know how to separate the calipers and clean and paint if you wish.
  10. Thanks, glad you like it. All the pics of calipers I've seen in brochures or online have been Silver coloured. They may well have painted them Black for the FSport or it could have been done by the previous. My wheels are the std 18" rims that went on the SEL. Never seen a model name for them in any Lexus brochures ..........just ALY74217U79. Yes I had them refurbed last August. The originals were peeling off in sheets, it was getting very embarrassing! Surely any wheel can be kerbed Well if mine were powder coated they were not done very well. Look at the original photo there is more rust colour than anything else. Wire brushing and clean up turned up with cast metal look.
  11. Yeah I know ... I googled a few colours on Google images. I was contemplating red, blue and green. Saw a green image on a is250 and thought yep that's the kiddie.
  12. Having completed a major overhaul and servicing of the slide pins I started pondering the painting of the calipers. Then the bug took over and off I went. This is how they looked before starting. Last weekend I started with the rears. They were particularly cruddy so I took them right off the car to be able to get a wire brush on them and also take a better look at the fixed pin on the carrier. Sal was going to be my wing man later when I needed to bleed them after refitting them. Having given then a really good wire brushing I then brushed them with a degreasing solvent and left them for about 10 mins to dry thoroughly. Next it was a coat of smooth hammerite in a pale green colour and left them for 30 mins and then another coat (I had a tin of green and a tin of white in the garage so it was a case of blending to get the green I wanted). After about an hour and a half they were quite dry and easy to handle without mishap. It was hot day mind! At this point I removed the other locking nuts and gave them all a good clean and silver spray (3 light coats with 5 mins between) followed by a dose of clear lacquer. Everything was brushed ... no spray used at all. This is how they looked after refitting and bleeding the rears last Sunday. As you can see old roasting trays have their uses!! I did the same with the fronts in the evenings the following week. The weather was perfect all week and I car shared with Sal to get to work each day. So it was prep and paint one night then reassemble the next. Here are the fronts and rears after fitting the wheels. Sorry I didn't wash the wheels the pics were a bit rushed. Lastly, the finished look. I'm pleased, it's exactly what I was after. Hope you like the look. If you feel enthused it's quite an easy job to do.
  13. I was thinking in a similar vein to that. Also, check out any heat shields on the exhaust. They are made of softish/malleable metal and can be slightly bent out of shape quite easily...one may be close to rumbling against the bodywork somewhere. I had exactly this on the shield under the floor.