Jacques Wood

Don't give up or accept your first quote. Try everywhere. Remember there are crash damaged LS430's with perfectly good boxes in scrap yards all around the country. Try these guys; http://www.idealengines.co.uk/model.asp?pname=all-lexus-ls430-automatictransmission&mo_id=163

Admiral, 36,000 a year (sounds a lot, but it's only average of 100miles a day), 16,000 of which is business, inc. legal cover, no breakdown.

Pete at PTR who did my flanges says that worst case the total job is £250 inc VAT fitted cost. This includes removing the exhaust, fitting new flanges on Y pipe and cats with gaskets, also includes new studs on exhaust manifold (mine were rusted and sheared) and replacing the slip joint exhaust clamp on the other end of the Y pipe (mine was seized). However it could all be cheaper if yours isn't as far gone as mine! So it is a drive in/drive out service, but you need to work around him and his schedule, which I understand isn't ideal. if anyone does want to enquire further, talk to Pete: pete@ptrexhausts.co.uk He can also specify full systems, including mufflers, cats/decats/sports cats, or full upgrades including manifolds for anything you own (My Ducati is next :-D)

As a very serious suggestion. Looks to big companies that import Japanese cars as a source of parts and fitting. They regularly import autos (admittedly usually straight six engined cars) on the cheap and convert them to manual UK side. So they're constantly taking gearboxes in and out. That would be your best bet for getting the car back on the road quickly, as in my experience, they have mountains of auto's lying around. I've met plenty of people in the import business, and they're not chop shops, they're car lovers. it won't be a pristine Lexus show room, but they'll do the job right. Go in with an open mind and you'll get good service. Worth an inquiry at least? Here's a google search for you: Japanese Car Importers Good luck

From factory there is a ring gasket. There are pictures below, but the best way to describe it is like a tightly wound watch spring, it sits in a recess in the flange between the two pipes (in my case the cats and the Y pipe). it's installed with some sort of sealing compound (had turned to a brittle ceramic when removed). I believe the principle of it is that can expand easily to breach any gaps when heat is first applied and stay in shape for the life of the exhaust. We use them at work in motorsport applications, but I've never looked into them in detail, it's just considered a standard for high quality applications. Anyway, I cut some flange shapes on a water cutter to the same size and shape as a metal crush gasket I could readily get my hands on, which is what you see in the finished pictures above. It's cheap and cheerful and works perfectly, but it was just to get it though the MOT (yes putty may have worked, but I like doing jobs properly).

Sorry for the slow update, I had a last minute international situation for work to handle (sounds much more exciting that it really was) Update on the exhaust, making the S/S version before my MOT didn't happen, my exhaust chap couldn't make it in time as he's had to take on a Motorsport contract. Instead he removed the old cats and Y pipe, removed and replaced the flanges on both (seems mine had failed both sides) and re fitted the OEM parts, below is a picture of the work. I'm very impressed with it. He's welded on different style flanges, that negate the expensive crush gasket found on the OEM exhaust. I'll admit, it's arguably an inferior design, but this cost me next to nothing (I won't quote on it unless it was a "mates rates" deal). and the car is now silent (I've had the exhaust blow since I bought it, so this lack of sound is very strange to me, though I can now hear a knock from the offside front damper (typical). I'll try to keep the momentum up and get pictures of the new S/S exhaust ASAP.

If it makes you feel any better, I'm 25 with 8 years no claims, an IAM certification for 6 years, and my un-modified Mk3 is £1450 per annum with £400 compulsory excess.

That's interesting, I didn't take the plunge for the reason that they looked to long in the ebay picture. Can you share where you got yours from?

***Latest update, A member has very kindly donated a rear UCA. I've placed it in the parts washer. And will get it out to companies this week, My initial impression is that the bushes and ball joint are indeed press fit. So theoretically, the bushes and ball joint could be replaced. But I'll dig deeper and check the bores for suitability of reuse once they're removed. Fingers crossed. On the exhaust side, I will hopefully have a price for the Y-pipe tonight. On a side note, Lexus UK and amayama are giving me the "lead time not known" answer on front wheel speed sensors (a continuing problem on my LS that causes the ABS to activate just before coming to a halt). So I'm going to do more research into finding an alternative on those as well.

I've had this issue on an auto BMW. Just to clarify, is there a vibration when you're STATIONARY in any gear? I assume it is as you're cycling P and N? Vibration when stationary - only parts that would be moving are engine rotation and torque converter, with torque converter imbalance being the obvious first place to look. (This was my issue with the BMW)

Sorry if the following is patronising; The EML light will register a fault code on the ECU that needs to be read using an appropriate machine. I would always want all the information possible before offering ideas, so obtaining fault codes is the sure way to make sure to know where to start. Your best bet is a Lexus dealer to get the codes to make sure you definitely get the right answer. I would ask for the fault code numbers written down, as it may be a DIY fix that the forum can help with, if you're cost concious.

Gunnar, The Items I can get are coil spring over fluid damper, not an air shock replacement. I will ask for you though.

Steve, Did the Bilsteins lower the ride height? I can get Bilsteins through my motorsport contacts significantly cheaper than OEM parts, but I don't want the lowered ride height. I've called my Bilstein supplier, but he is unsure if they drop the ride height, as he doesn't know what the extension of an OEM shock is. Cheers, Jacques

You're not on your own, the same problems will effect all owners eventually. This is by a long way the best forum I've ever been a part of, and the general consensus I've got is "if the job's worth doing, it's worth doing right", which matches my philosophy. I'm confident I will find a way to recycle the UCA's to an OEM or better standard, and I'll test them on my own car for 12 months ( my annual mileage is around 32k a year) and report back my findings.