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Tow bar fitted last year but electric pack not yet fitted. Can anyone let me know how they wired their Tow Bar?

Did they run a live cable from the battery or splice in to either the Antenna or CD player live?

I've seen this thread but it doesn't make clear this point.

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/body/trailerhitch.html

Thanks

That's because that kit doesn't use the relay you want to fit.

I've fitted two bars using a relay ( 1 Toyota, 1 Honda) , and taken the live feed direct from the Battery, and, as you say, used an inline fuse.

Mike,

I've got to get this wiring done and so today thouight I'd give it a go. Not an easy task. See someone said that their mechanic took twelve hours to route the cable from front to rear. I've only taken off the door foot trim and blimey haven't a clue howe to get the passenger carpt up to find a hole in the bulkhead. Can't efen see how to undo the plastic under the glove compartment. Nice not to see fasteners - until you have to find them. did you run your cable under the car? How did you route it?

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Tow bar fitted last year but electric pack not yet fitted. Can anyone let me know how they wired their Tow Bar?

Did they run a live cable from the battery or splice in to either the Antenna or CD player live?

I've seen this thread but it doesn't make clear this point.

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/body/trailerhitch.html

Thanks

That's because that kit doesn't use the relay you want to fit.

I've fitted two bars using a relay ( 1 Toyota, 1 Honda) , and taken the live feed direct from the Battery, and, as you say, used an inline fuse.

Mike,

I've got to get this wiring done and so today thouight I'd give it a go. Not an easy task. See someone said that their mechanic took twelve hours to route the cable from front to rear. I've only taken off the door foot trim and blimey haven't a clue howe to get the passenger carpt up to find a hole in the bulkhead. Can't efen see how to undo the plastic under the glove compartment. Nice not to see fasteners - until you have to find them. did you run your cable under the car? How did you route it?

Sorry, not had cause to route anything from underbonnet on my LS.

On all cars where I have though, I've nearly always managed to use an existing grommet, though occasionally I've had to drill a new hole and fit a new grommet.

As to routing through the car to the rear, I did that for reversing beeper, and just used the trim panels to hide the cable, the sill panels just clip on and off easily, then removed the rear seat backrest to access a way in to the boot, though somebody posted that it was possible to do this by bending the edge back, without actually removing it.

I'm sure somebody on here must have found a way through from the engine bay though?

Anybody?

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I did manage to pull back the carpet to be met with a rubber liner that looked fairly impenetrable. Drilling blind is not something I felt too sure about so abandoned the job. Two thoughts. On the inside of the bulkhead by the bonnet spar there is what looks like a grommet. I tried to pull this out thinking its a way in. Tugged and tugged to no avail. Hate breaking parts, but maybe its the way in? Anyone know?

Why oh why, when they mention tow bar in the Electricals, did they not provide a positive post in the boot? Can't fathom it.

OK necessity being the Morther of invention, and as for the moment I only need the tow bar for one 30 mile job in France I've decided to "temporarily" run a cable via a 12v Motorcycle Battery in the boot to the plug leads for the Trailer lights and via a switch which my wife can hold and when I say BRAKE!! she'll flick the switch. Ha ha ha, just in case the Gendarmes should be hanging around as they sometimes do near to my journey.

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I did manage to pull back the carpet to be met with a rubber liner that looked fairly impenetrable. Drilling blind is not something I felt too sure about so abandoned the job. Two thoughts. On the inside of the bulkhead by the bonnet spar there is what looks like a grommet. I tried to pull this out thinking its a way in. Tugged and tugged to no avail. Hate breaking parts, but maybe its the way in? Anyone know?

Why oh why, when they mention tow bar in the Electricals, did they not provide a positive post in the boot? Can't fathom it.

OK necessity being the Morther of invention, and as for the moment I only need the tow bar for one 30 mile job in France I've decided to "temporarily" run a cable via a 12v Motorcycle battery in the boot to the plug leads for the Trailer lights and via a switch which my wife can hold and when I say BRAKE!! she'll flick the switch. Ha ha ha, just in case the Gendarmes should be hanging around as they sometimes do near to my journey.

Interesting solution!!

Hopefully your journey will be gendarme free.

Agreed about drilling the bulkhead blind, I'd check, check again, and when absolutely certain all was clear, check again.

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The idea of running the cable under the car is probably the way to go .There are two brake pipe service channels that run each side of the car they are covered by a plastic shield held on with captive nuts.They run from the bottom of the engine bulkhead exiting forward of the back exhaust box heat shield.

The route would be down the engine firewall through the channel and then over the heatshield and into the boot through the grommet on the spare wheel carrier.

I'm sure when you start the job better routing solutions at the rear will be found but it is a start.

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Thanks I'll have to check out those channels.

I did manage to pull out what looked like a grommet by the bonnet strut (there's one both sides) and what did I find, the thread part of a long bolt.

Of course I've forgotten in my heath robinson moment that I need to have indicators working.

In France the Gendarmes are particularly fearce in enforcing their use. It really irks me travelling through the night when cars overtake on virtually empty roads they indicate that they are pulling in front of me, flash, flash, flash, flash, I'm trying to sleep back here for G's sake!!

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