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Gs300 Se Auto (p97) Overheating... I Think!


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Hi all, I have a GS300 obviously, and it has started, or appears to be overheating.

Observations:

  • Rad cap feels a bit loose like it isn't clamped tight.
  • I hear a bubbling from the reservoir and it has obviously over split at some point
  • I'm getting steam coming in through the screen vents, tends to be when I try to de-mist the screen
  • The temp gauge never goes above half way (bit confusing that)
  • if I run the engine with the rad cap off I can see water movement and if I put a funnel on and fill it up I get bubbles coming to the top every now and then.
  • No white foam on the Oil Cap

Going to buy a new Rad cap today as I'm not happy with that and I know a lot of these system work under pressure. I'm pretty sure the water pump is working.

Any idea's guys.

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Hi all, I have a GS300 obviously, and it has started, or appears to be overheating.

Observations:

  • Rad cap feels a bit loose like it isn't clamped tight.
  • I hear a bubbling from the reservoir and it has obviously over split at some point
  • I'm getting steam coming in through the screen vents, tends to be when I try to de-mist the screen
  • The temp gauge never goes above half way (bit confusing that)
  • if I run the engine with the rad cap off I can see water movement and if I put a funnel on and fill it up I get bubbles coming to the top every now and then.
  • No white foam on the Oil Cap

Going to buy a new Rad cap today as I'm not happy with that and I know a lot of these system work under pressure. I'm pretty sure the water pump is working.

Any idea's guys.

Hi, sounds like a head gasket,the bubble ......leaking gasket.
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Hi Terry, Replaced the rad cap and that sorted the bubbling and it felt a lot tighter fitted, unfortunately it also started to make the engine overheat and the temp rose pretty quick. I then noticed a pretty fast stream of water running out and thought it might have been a damaged hose, so I got it on ramps and tried to find the source of the leak.

It was coming out of the rad so I am just in the process of removing the old one and awaiting a new one £96 delivered next day. Not bad since my local supplier quoted me £194 next day.

Just a bit unsure about the air con and the pipes from the rad. not too sure how to go about that. I can remove most of the hoses and the nuts and bolts and from the look its actually quite easy to remove; which I was surprised at for a Lexus but then most of the work I've done on this car has surprised me with its ease of application.

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Ok I have fitted the rad, pretty easy really. Now for the next bit, How to I properly flush the system and where are the bolts on the engine to bleed it properly. Anyone got some good pictures or step by steps?

TIA

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No bleed valves that aI know of. Just proceed as follows:

  1. Fill coolant through rad cap
  2. replace rad cap
  3. fill expansion tank to max level
  4. start engine
  5. Heater on highest temp
  6. run car at 2000 rpm 'til hot
  7. allow to fully cool
  8. top up expansion tank to max level

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Hi Terry, Replaced the rad cap and that sorted the bubbling and it felt a lot tighter fitted, unfortunately it also started to make the engine overheat and the temp rose pretty quick. I then noticed a pretty fast stream of water running out and thought it might have been a damaged hose, so I got it on ramps and tried to find the source of the leak.

It was coming out of the rad so I am just in the process of removing the old one and awaiting a new one £96 delivered next day. Not bad since my local supplier quoted me £194 next day.

Just a bit unsure about the air con and the pipes from the rad. not too sure how to go about that. I can remove most of the hoses and the nuts and bolts and from the look its actually quite easy to remove; which I was surprised at for a Lexus but then most of the work I've done on this car has surprised me with its ease of application.

Hi,Top up the coolant to the neck,then start the engine,and see if u get any bubbles,if not then check the thermorstat and water pump,the way to check.hot on top,cold at the bottom,,,problem,hot both sides ,,no problem.
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hot on top,cold at the bottom,,,problem,hot both sides ,,no problem.

I assume you mean once the engine is up to full temp? While the thermostat is shut, it will be cold on one side and hot on the other. Only once it has opened at full operating temp, will it be hot on both sides.

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hot on top,cold at the bottom,,,problem,hot both sides ,,no problem.

I assume you mean once the engine is up to full temp? While the thermostat is shut, it will be cold on one side and hot on the other. Only once it has opened at full operating temp, will it be hot on both sides.

Hi ,no ,it must be cold,with out the cap ,letting the engine run up to temp
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hot on top,cold at the bottom,,,problem,hot both sides ,,no problem.

I assume you mean once the engine is up to full temp? While the thermostat is shut, it will be cold on one side and hot on the other. Only once it has opened at full operating temp, will it be hot on both sides.

Hi ,no ,it must be cold,with out the cap ,letting the engine run up to temp

:lol: I don't mean let it get up to temp before removing the cap (very dangerous thing to do), I mean checking the pipe temps (on both sides of the thermostat) once the engine is up to temp. That is an important step not to leave out for this check otherwise you can think you have issues when you don't.

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Hi Guys, just come back from Morthoe, Devon, its a little slice of heaven in the quiet season.

Anyway going to have a mess around tomorrow, so will let you know later. Thanks for the advice up to yet, lets hope I can sort it fairly easily. :eerrrmm:

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Right, been doing a bit of research and found a PDF file, and in particular the cooling section. This may be a long post but I think it will be more concise and hopefully help others to diagnose cooling issues. Some of the references to other sections aren't detailed here but I could make another post and link to it if need be, or just add the referenced sections on the bottom of this post. if you need the images I can upload them onto the end of this post.

COOLANT CHECK AND REPLACEMENT

  • CHECK ENGINE COOLANT LEVEL AT RESERVOIR TANK
    • The engine coolant level should be between the "LOW" and "FULL" lines.
    • If low, check for leaks and add engine coolant up to the "FULL" line.

    [*]CHECK ENGINE COOLANT QUALITY

    • There should not be any excessive deposits of rust or scale around the radiator cap or radiator filler hole, and the coolantshould be free from oil.
    • If excessively dirty, replace the coolant.

    [*]REPLACE ENGINE COOLANT

    • Remove the radiator cap.
    • CAUTION: To avoid the danger of being burned, do not remove the radiator cap while the engine and radiator are still hot, as fluid and steam can be blown out under pressure.
    • Loosen the 2 drain plugs (for the engine and radiator), and drain the coolant.
    • Close the drain plugs. (Torque:29 Nm (300 kgf cm, 22 ft lbf) for engine
    • Slowly fill the system with coolant. Use a good brand of ethylene–glycol base coolant and mix it according to the manufacturer's directions. Using coolant which includes more than 50 % ethylene–glycol (but not more than 70 %) is recommended.
      NOTICE: Do not use an alcohol type coolant. The coolant should be mixed with demineralized water or distilled water. Capacity (w/ Heater): 7.5 liters (7.9 US qts, 6.6 lmp. qts)
    • Install the radiator cap.
    • Start the engine, and bleed the cooling system.
    • Refill the reservoir tank with coolant until it reaches the "FULL" line.

THERMOSTAT REMOVAL

  • Installation is in reverse order of removal.
    • HINT: Removal of the thermostat would have an adverse effect, causing a lowering of cooling efficiency. Do not remove the thermostat, even if the engine tends to overheat. (I think what this actually means is 'don't permanently remove the thermostat)
    • DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT
    • DISCONNECT WATER INLET FROM WATER PUMP, AND REMOVE THERMOSTAT
      • Remove the 2 nuts holding the water inlet to the water pump, and disconnect the water inlet from the water pump. Torque: 8.8 Nm (90 kgf cm, 78 in.lbf)
      • Remove the thermostat.
      • Remove the gasket from the thermostat. INSTALLATION HINT: See water pump installation.

THERMOSTAT INSPECTION

  • INSPECT THERMOSTAT
    • HINT: The thermostat is numbered with the valve opening temperature.
    • Immerse the thermostat in water and gradually heat the water.
    • Check the valve opening temperature. Valve opening temperature: 80–84°C (176–183°F) If the valve opening temperature is not as specified, replace the thermostat.
    • Check the valve lift. Valve lift: 8.5 mm (0.335 in.) or more at 95°C (203°F) If the valve lift is not as specified, replace the thermostat.
    • Check that the valve spring is tight when the thermostat is fully closed. If not closed, replace the thermostat.

WATER PUMP REMOVAL

  • DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT
  • REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVER
  • REMOVE AIR CLEANER DUCT
  • REMOVE AIR CLEANER, VAF METER AND INTAKE AIR CONNECTOR PIPE
  • REMOVE DRIVE BELT, FAN WITH FLUID COUPLING AND WATER PUMP PULLEY
    • Loosen the 4 nuts holding the fluid coupling to the water pump.
    • Loosen the drive belt tension by turning the drive belt tensioner clockwise, and remove the drive belt.
    • Remove the 4 nuts, fluid coupling and water pump pulley.

    [*]REMOVE RADIATOR ASSEMBLY (See steps 5 and 6 in radiator removal)

    [*]REMOVE WATER INLET AND THERMOSTAT

    • Remove the 2 nuts holding the water inlet to the water pump, and disconnect the water inlet from the water pump.
    • Remove the thermostat.
    • Remove the gasket from the thermostat.

    [*]REMOVE DISTRIBUTOR (See distributor removal in Ignition System)

    [*]REMOVE WATER BYPASS OUTLET AND NO.1 WATER BYPASS PIPE

    • Remove the 2 bolts, water bypass outlet and No.1 water bypass pipe.
    • Remove the 3 O–rings from the water bypass outlet and No.1 water bypass pipe.

    [*]REMOVE TIMING BELT (See steps 6 to 10 and 12 to 16 in timing belt removal in Engine Mechanical)

    [*]REMOVE IDLER PULLEY (See step 17 in timing belt removal in Engine Mechanical)

    [*]REMOVE WATER PUMP

    • Remove the mounting bolt, and disconnect the engine wire bracket.
    • Loosen the generator mounting nut.
    • Remove the generator mounting bolt, and disconnect the generator from the water pump.
    • Remove the 2 nuts, and disconnect the No.2 water bypass pipe from the water pump.
    • Remove the 6 bolts, water pump and gasket.
    • Remove the O–ring from the cylinder block.

WATER PUMP COMPONENTS INSPECTION

  • INSPECT WATER PUMP
  • Turn the pulley seat, and check that the water pump bearing is not rough or noisy.If necessary, replace the water pump.
  • INSPECT FLUID COUPLING
    • Remove the 4 nuts and fan from the fluid coupling.
    • Check that the fluid coupling is not damaged and that no silicon oil leaks. If necessary, replace the fluid coupling.
    • Reinstall the fan to the fluid coupling with the 4 nuts. Torque: 7.4 Nm (75 kgf cm, 65 in. lbf)

WATER PUMP INSTALLATION

  • INSTALL WATER PUMP
    • Install a new O–ring to the cylinder block.
    • Install a new gasket to the water pump.
    • Connect the water pump to the water bypass pipe. Do not install the nut yet.
    • Install the water pump with the 2 bolts (A) and 4 bolts ( B) . Torque: 21 Nm (210 kgf cm, 15 ft lbf)
    • HINT: Hand tighten the (A) bolts first.
    • Install the 2 nuts holding the No.2 water bypass pipe to the water pump. Torque: 21 Nm (210 kgf cm, 15 ft lbf)
    • Install the generator mounting bolt. Torque: 37 Nm (380 kgf cm, 27 ft lbf)
    • Tighten the generator mounting nut. Torque: 37 Nm (380 kgfcm, 27 ftlbf)
    • Install the engine wire bracket with the bolt.

    [*]INSTALL IDLER PULLEY (See step 2 in timing belt installation in Engine Mechanical)

INSTALL TIMING BELT (See steps 3 to 7 and 9 to 16 in timing belt installation in Engine Mechanical)

  • INSTALL WATER BYPASS OUTLET AND NO.1 WATER BYPASS PIPE
    • Install 2 new O–rings to the No.1 water bypass pipe.
    • Install a new O–ring and the water bypass outlet with the 2 bolts. Torque: 8.8 Nm (90 kgf cm, 78 in. lbf)

  • INSTALL DISTRIBUTOR (See steps 3 and 5 to 6 distributor installation in Ignition System)
  • PLACE THERMOSTAT IN WATER INLET
    • Install a new gasket to the thermostat.
    • Align the jiggle valve of the thermostat with the protrusion of the water inlet.

    [*]INSTALL WATER INLET

    • Install the water inlet with the 2 nuts. Torque: 8.8 N⋅m (90 kgf⋅cm, 78 in.⋅lbf)

    [*]INSTALL RADIATOR ASSEMBLY (See steps 4 and 5 in radiator installation)

    [*]INSTALL WATER PUMP PULLEY, FAN WITH FLUID COUPLING AND DRIVE BELT

    • Align the matchmarks, and install the water pump pulley and fan fluid coupling with the 4 nuts.
    • Install the drive belt by turning the drive belt tensioner clockwise.
    • Stretch the belt tight and tighten the 4 nuts. Torque: 16 N⋅m (165 kgf⋅cm, 12 ft⋅lbf)

    [*]INSTALL AIR CLEANER, VAF METER AND INTAKE AIR CONNECTOR PIPE

    [*]INSTALL AIR CLEANER DUCT

    [*]FILL WITH ENGINE COOLANT

    [*]START ENGINE AND CHECK FOR LEAKS

    [*]CHECK AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL

    [*]CHECK IGNITION TIMING (See ignition timing inspection and adjustment in Engine Mechanical)

    [*]INSTALL ENGINE UNDER COVER

    [*]ROAD TEST VEHICLE

    • Check for abnormal noise, shock, slippage, correct shift points and smooth operation.

    [*]RECHECK ENGINE COOLANT LEVEL ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM

ELECTRIC COOLING FAN (On–Vehicle Inspection)

  • CHECK COOLING FAN OPERATION WITH LOW TEMPERATURE (Below 88C (190F)
    • Turn the ignition switch ON.
    • Check that the cooling fan stops. If not, check the cooling fan relay and ECT switch, and check for a separated connector or severed wire between the cooling fan relay and ECT switch.
    • Disconnect the ECT switch connector.
    • Check that the cooling fan rotates. If not, check the fan main relay, cooling fan relay, cooling fan, fuses, and check for short circuit between the cooling fan relay and ECT switch. Reconnect the ECT switch connector.

    [*]CHECK COOLING FAN OPERATION WITH HIGH TEMPERATURE (Above 97C (207F)

    • Start the engine, and raise coolant temperature to above 97C (207F)
    • Check that the cooling fan rotates If not, replace the ECT switch.

COOLING FAN INSPECTION

  • INSPECT COOLING FAN
    • Disconnect the fan connector.
    • Connect Battery and ammeter to the cooling fan connector.
    • Check that the cooling fan rotates smoothly, and check the reading on the ammeter. Standard amperage: 6.0–7.4 A
    • Reconnect the fan connector

COOLING FAN REMOVAL (Installation is in the reverse order of removal)

  • REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVER
  • REMOVE AIR CLEANER DUCT
  • DISCONNECT UPPER RADIATOR HOSE FROM RADIATOR
  • REMOVE COOLING FAN
    • Disconnect the cooling fan connector.
    • Disconnect the ECT switch wire from the wire clamp
    • Remove the 3 bolts and cooling fan.

COMPONENTS FOR DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY

COOLING FAN DISASSEMBLY (Assembly is in the reverse order of disassembly)

  • REMOVE FAN
  • REMOVE FAN MOTOR
    • Disconnect the wire and connector from the fan shroud.
    • Remove the 3 screws and fan motor.

Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Switch ECT SWITCH INSPECTION

  • REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVER
  • DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT
  • REMOVE ECT SWITCH
    • Disconnect the ECT switch connector.
    • Remove the ECT switch.
    • Remove the O–ring the ECT switch.

    [*]INSPECT ECT SWITCH

    • Using an ohmmeter, check that there is no continuity between the terminals when the coolant temperature is above 101C (214F)
    • Using an ohmmeter, check that there is continuity between the terminals when the coolant temperature is below 91C (196F) If continuity is not as specified, replace the switch.

    [*]REINSTALL ECT SWITCH

    • Install a new O–ring to the ECT switch.
    • Apply soapy water on the O–ring.
    • Install the ECT switch. Torque: 7.4 N⋅m (75 kgf⋅cm, 65 in.⋅lbf)
    • Connect the ECT switch connector.

    [*]REFILL WITH ENGINE COOLANT

    [*]START ENGINE AND CHECK FOR LEAKS

    [*]REINSTALL ENGINE UNDER COVER

Fan Main Relay ("RDI FAN MAIN") FAN MAIN RELAY INSPECTION

  • REMOVE RELAY BOX COVER
  • REMOVE FAN MAIN RELAY
  • INSPECT FAN MAIN RELAY
    • Inspect relay continuity
      • Using an ohmmeter, check that there is continuity between terminals 3 and 5.
      • Check that there is continuity between terminals 2 and 4.
      • Check that there is no continuity between terminals 1 and 4. If continuity is not as specified, replace the relay.

  • Inspect relay operation
    • Apply Battery voltage across terminals 3 and 5.
    • Using an ohmmeter, check that there is no continuity between terminals 2 and 4.
    • Check that there is continuity between terminals 1 and 2. If operation is not as specified, replace the relay.

    [*]REINSTALL FAN MAIN RELAY

    [*]REINSTALL RELAY BOX COVER

Cooling Fan Relay ("RDI FAN") COOLING FAN RELAY INSPECTION

  • REMOVE RELAY BOX COVER
  • REMOVE COOLING FAN RELAY
  • INSPECT COOLING FAN RELAY
    • Inspect relay continuity
      • Using an ohmmeter, check that there is continuity between terminals 1 and 2.
      • Check that there is continuity between terminals 3 and 4. If continuity is not as specified, replace the relay.

    [*]Inspect relay operation

    • Apply Battery voltage across terminals 1 and 2.
    • Using an ohmmeter, check that there is no continuity between terminals 3 and 4. If operation is not as specified, replace the relay.

    [*]REINSTALL COOLING FAN RELAY

    [*]REINSTALL RELAY BOX COVER

RADIATOR REMOVAL

  • REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVER
  • DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT
  • REMOVE AIR CLEANER DUCT
  • REMOVE NO.2 FAN SHROUD
    • Remove the 2 clips.
    • Disconnect the claw of the No.2 fan shroud from the hook of the No.1 fan shroud, and remove the No.2 fan shroud.

    [*]DISCONNECT HOSES FROM RADIATOR Disconnect these hoses from the radiator:

    • Reservoir tank inlet hose
    • Upper radiator hose
    • Lower radiator hose
    • 2 A/T oil cooler hoses (Plug the hose ends)

    [*]REMOVE RADIATOR ASSEMBLY

    • Disconnect the ECT switch for electric cooling fan connector and wire.
    • Disconnect the electric cooling fan connector and wire.
    • Remove the nut and upper radiator support. Remove the 2 upper radiator supports.
    • Lift out the radiator assembly.
    • Remove the 2 lower radiator supports.

    [*]REMOVE ELECTRIC COOLING FAN FROM RADIATOR

    [*]REMOVE NO.1 FAN SHROUD FROM RADIATOR

    • Remove the 2 bolts.
    • Disconnect the lower sides of the No.1 fan shroud from the 2 hooks of the radiator, and remove the radiator.
    • Remove the 2 cushions from the No.1 fan shroud.

    [*]REMOVE ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE (ECT) SWITCH FROM RADIATOR

    • Remove the ECT switch.
    • Remove the O–ring from the ECT switch

RADIATOR INSTALLATION

  • INSTALL ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE (ECT) SWITCH TO RADIATOR
    • Install a new O–ring to the ECT switch.
    • Apply soapy water to the O–ring.
    • Install the ECT switch. Torque: 7.4 N⋅m (75 kgf⋅cm, 65 in.⋅lbf)

    [*]INSTALL NO.1 FAN SHROUD TO RADIATOR

    • Install the 2 cushions to the radiator.
    • Connect the lower sides of the No.1 fan shroud to the 2 hooks of the radiator.
    • Install the No.1 fan shroud with the 2 bolts.

    [*]INSTALL ELECTRIC COOLING FAN TO RADIATOR

    [*]INSTALL RADIATOR ASSEMBLY

    • Install the 2 lower radiator supports to the radiator.
    • Place the radiator assembly on the body bracket.
    • Install the radiator with the 2 upper radiator supports and 2 nuts. Torque: 12 N⋅m (120 kgf⋅cm, 9 ft⋅lbf) HINT: After installation, check that the rubber cushion (A) of the support is not depressed.
    • Connect the electric cooling fan connector and wire.
    • Connect the ECT switch (for electric cooling fan) connector and wire.

    [*]CONNECT HOSES TO RADIATOR

    [*]INSTALL NO.2 FAN SHROUD

    • Connect the claw of the No.2 fan shroud from the hook of the No.1 fan shroud.
    • Install the No.2 fan shroud with the 2 clips.

    [*]INSTALL AIR CLEANER DUCT

    [*]FILL WITH ENGINE COOLANT

    [*]CHECK AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL

    [*]START ENGINE AND CHECK FOR LEAKS

    [*]INSTALL ENGINE UNDER COVER

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Ps: just been testing and I'm going to take the car on a longer run, I will take it for a dual carrigageway run nearby and then i'll idle it for a while to see if the fan kicks in. I have checked the fan works by disconnecting from the ECT switch and setting the ignition key to 'ON' and the fan runs, so, I may replace the ECT switch as a matter of course.

As of yet temps stay at the midway point, I have hot big pipe at the top and warmish big pipe at the bottom so i think the thermostat is working and I know the pump is because I soaked my dad when I cranked the car lol!

There is another bleed bolt on the car body it looks hard to get to but is actually fairly easy, and once I'd nudged it with a socket (15mm) I could get my hand in to manually unscrew it. I still have a bit of bubbling in the expansion tank, but I have no cream on the Oil cap. I have a new rad cap that fits tight and the pipes feel under pressure.

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The engine bolt, near the back of the block. oops! I'm using the wrong terminology obviously, sorry if that confused you, so what I actually mean is; the drain plug at the back of the engine block, it has a small tube to enable you to attach a length of tube to facilitate easy drainage into a bowl.

Will upload a few pictures tomorrow don't have time tonight. Still getting bubbles in the expansion tank, took it for a longer drive and it still overheats. I disconnected the fan from the ECT switch to get home, the temp gauge was going up and down like it was on a spring. Once I'd pulled into the drive and stopped there was steam coming out of the bonnet, I just left it to cool down. I'm still getting a lot of condensation inside the car, so it mists the interior windows up.

On the lengthy post see here:

REPLACE ENGINE COOLANT

* Remove the radiator cap.

* CAUTION: To avoid the danger of being burned, do not remove the radiator cap while the engine and radiator are still hot, as fluid and steam can be blown out under pressure.

* Loosen the 2 drain plugs (for the engine and radiator), and drain the coolant. <<

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Ok I drained the system, by removing the rad drain plug, then I undid the engine drain plug but nothing came out of that.

I have bought a new thermostat and gasket. The ECT Switch and the related relays are ok because I have run through the tests outlined above and they all check out.

I have also removed the big top hose and put the hosepipe in it, the water flows through the pump into the bottom hose and back out the top hose.

My main concern is the fact I can't get any water out of the engine drain plug

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I assume you are getting no coolant out of the engine block drain because there is not enough left in to drain from that high up, hence the over heating. If you are still getting bubbles in the expansion tank, then that is a good indication of a head gasket gone. Even if it hadn't gone initially (due to knackered radiator), the overheating could've caused the head gasket failure.

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I think its looking more and more like it TigerFish, but I'm in denial at the mo. I want to try the less expensive options first but if need be will have to bite the bullet and get it sorted. Fortunately my brother-in-law worked at a Toyota garage for a few years and knows his stuff, I don't like to bother him too much as he's a busy guy, so if I can sort it myself I try that and call him in as a last resort.

I'm still a bit confused as to why when I fill her up and try to flush the engine block out no water leaks out. Maybe I'm doing something wrong, I'll have to take note of how much water I put in. I think on these cars it should take 7.5 litres, if I'm short on that its not filling up properly. I used engine flush and the water comes back out very clear.

Is it possible I have a blockage somewhere? and that's why I don't get any water from the engine drain plug?

It's one of those; it should work but why doesn't it jobs.

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Right been doing some serious reading.

Question. I've seen on this forum a few people flushing the heater matrix out by disconnecting two pipes to allow the water to flow through and clear it out or to see if there is a blockage. Where are these pipes? I want to clean out this part of the cooling system just to make sure there's no debris or sludge etc

I think I'm half way there to sorting this without the expense of a new head gasket. I just need to be able to clean out the heater before I try to fix this issue.

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  • 5 weeks later...

Well after lots of messing around I fixed the head gasket leak with some stuff called Steelseal, brilliant stuff. Steelseal

I found I had a leak on the heater matrix, that was causing the windows to steam up, so if your windows steam up check your passenger footwell, it will be wet or damp.

Now that's all fixed, I now have the job of sorting out a misfiring engine. Sheeeez it never rains and all that.

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  • 1 month later...

Is the car still working with the repair and how much did you put in

Well after lots of messing around I fixed the head gasket leak with some stuff called Steelseal, brilliant stuff. Steelseal

I found I had a leak on the heater matrix, that was causing the windows to steam up, so if your windows steam up check your passenger footwell, it will be wet or damp.

Now that's all fixed, I now have the job of sorting out a misfiring engine. Sheeeez it never rains and all that.

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Right, been doing a bit of research and found a PDF file, and in particular the cooling section. This may be a long post but I think it will be more concise and hopefully help others to diagnose cooling issues. Some of the references to other sections aren't detailed here but I could make another post and link to it if need be, or just add the referenced sections on the bottom of this post. if you need the images I can upload them onto the end of this post.

COOLANT CHECK AND REPLACEMENT

  • CHECK ENGINE COOLANT LEVEL AT RESERVOIR TANK
    • The engine coolant level should be between the "LOW" and "FULL" lines.
    • If low, check for leaks and add engine coolant up to the "FULL" line.

    [*]CHECK ENGINE COOLANT QUALITY

    • There should not be any excessive deposits of rust or scale around the radiator cap or radiator filler hole, and the coolantshould be free from oil.
    • If excessively dirty, replace the coolant.

    [*]REPLACE ENGINE COOLANT

    • Remove the radiator cap.
    • CAUTION: To avoid the danger of being burned, do not remove the radiator cap while the engine and radiator are still hot, as fluid and steam can be blown out under pressure.
    • Loosen the 2 drain plugs (for the engine and radiator), and drain the coolant.
    • Close the drain plugs. (Torque:29 Nm (300 kgf cm, 22 ft lbf) for engine
    • Slowly fill the system with coolant. Use a good brand of ethylene–glycol base coolant and mix it according to the manufacturer's directions. Using coolant which includes more than 50 % ethylene–glycol (but not more than 70 %) is recommended.
      NOTICE: Do not use an alcohol type coolant. The coolant should be mixed with demineralized water or distilled water. Capacity (w/ Heater): 7.5 liters (7.9 US qts, 6.6 lmp. qts)
    • Install the radiator cap.
    • Start the engine, and bleed the cooling system.
    • Refill the reservoir tank with coolant until it reaches the "FULL" line.

THERMOSTAT REMOVAL

  • Installation is in reverse order of removal.
    • HINT: Removal of the thermostat would have an adverse effect, causing a lowering of cooling efficiency. Do not remove the thermostat, even if the engine tends to overheat. (I think what this actually means is 'don't permanently remove the thermostat)
    • DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT
    • DISCONNECT WATER INLET FROM WATER PUMP, AND REMOVE THERMOSTAT
      • Remove the 2 nuts holding the water inlet to the water pump, and disconnect the water inlet from the water pump. Torque: 8.8 Nm (90 kgf cm, 78 in.lbf)
      • Remove the thermostat.
      • Remove the gasket from the thermostat. INSTALLATION HINT: See water pump installation.

THERMOSTAT INSPECTION

  • INSPECT THERMOSTAT
    • HINT: The thermostat is numbered with the valve opening temperature.
    • Immerse the thermostat in water and gradually heat the water.
    • Check the valve opening temperature. Valve opening temperature: 80–84°C (176–183°F) If the valve opening temperature is not as specified, replace the thermostat.
    • Check the valve lift. Valve lift: 8.5 mm (0.335 in.) or more at 95°C (203°F) If the valve lift is not as specified, replace the thermostat.
    • Check that the valve spring is tight when the thermostat is fully closed. If not closed, replace the thermostat.

WATER PUMP REMOVAL

  • DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT
  • REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVER
  • REMOVE AIR CLEANER DUCT
  • REMOVE AIR CLEANER, VAF METER AND INTAKE AIR CONNECTOR PIPE
  • REMOVE DRIVE BELT, FAN WITH FLUID COUPLING AND WATER PUMP PULLEY
    • Loosen the 4 nuts holding the fluid coupling to the water pump.
    • Loosen the drive belt tension by turning the drive belt tensioner clockwise, and remove the drive belt.
    • Remove the 4 nuts, fluid coupling and water pump pulley.

    [*]REMOVE RADIATOR ASSEMBLY (See steps 5 and 6 in radiator removal)

    [*]REMOVE WATER INLET AND THERMOSTAT

    • Remove the 2 nuts holding the water inlet to the water pump, and disconnect the water inlet from the water pump.
    • Remove the thermostat.
    • Remove the gasket from the thermostat.

    [*]REMOVE DISTRIBUTOR (See distributor removal in Ignition System)

    [*]REMOVE WATER BYPASS OUTLET AND NO.1 WATER BYPASS PIPE

    • Remove the 2 bolts, water bypass outlet and No.1 water bypass pipe.
    • Remove the 3 O–rings from the water bypass outlet and No.1 water bypass pipe.

    [*]REMOVE TIMING BELT (See steps 6 to 10 and 12 to 16 in timing belt removal in Engine Mechanical)

    [*]REMOVE IDLER PULLEY (See step 17 in timing belt removal in Engine Mechanical)

    [*]REMOVE WATER PUMP

    • Remove the mounting bolt, and disconnect the engine wire bracket.
    • Loosen the generator mounting nut.
    • Remove the generator mounting bolt, and disconnect the generator from the water pump.
    • Remove the 2 nuts, and disconnect the No.2 water bypass pipe from the water pump.
    • Remove the 6 bolts, water pump and gasket.
    • Remove the O–ring from the cylinder block.

WATER PUMP COMPONENTS INSPECTION

  • INSPECT WATER PUMP
  • Turn the pulley seat, and check that the water pump bearing is not rough or noisy.If necessary, replace the water pump.
  • INSPECT FLUID COUPLING
    • Remove the 4 nuts and fan from the fluid coupling.
    • Check that the fluid coupling is not damaged and that no silicon oil leaks. If necessary, replace the fluid coupling.
    • Reinstall the fan to the fluid coupling with the 4 nuts. Torque: 7.4 Nm (75 kgf cm, 65 in. lbf)

WATER PUMP INSTALLATION

  • INSTALL WATER PUMP
    • Install a new O–ring to the cylinder block.
    • Install a new gasket to the water pump.
    • Connect the water pump to the water bypass pipe. Do not install the nut yet.
    • Install the water pump with the 2 bolts (A) and 4 bolts ( B) . Torque: 21 Nm (210 kgf cm, 15 ft lbf)
    • HINT: Hand tighten the (A) bolts first.
    • Install the 2 nuts holding the No.2 water bypass pipe to the water pump. Torque: 21 Nm (210 kgf cm, 15 ft lbf)
    • Install the generator mounting bolt. Torque: 37 Nm (380 kgf cm, 27 ft lbf)
    • Tighten the generator mounting nut. Torque: 37 Nm (380 kgfcm, 27 ftlbf)
    • Install the engine wire bracket with the bolt.

    [*]INSTALL IDLER PULLEY (See step 2 in timing belt installation in Engine Mechanical)

INSTALL TIMING BELT (See steps 3 to 7 and 9 to 16 in timing belt installation in Engine Mechanical)

  • INSTALL WATER BYPASS OUTLET AND NO.1 WATER BYPASS PIPE
    • Install 2 new O–rings to the No.1 water bypass pipe.
    • Install a new O–ring and the water bypass outlet with the 2 bolts. Torque: 8.8 Nm (90 kgf cm, 78 in. lbf)

  • INSTALL DISTRIBUTOR (See steps 3 and 5 to 6 distributor installation in Ignition System)
  • PLACE THERMOSTAT IN WATER INLET
    • Install a new gasket to the thermostat.
    • Align the jiggle valve of the thermostat with the protrusion of the water inlet.

    [*]INSTALL WATER INLET

    • Install the water inlet with the 2 nuts. Torque: 8.8 N⋅m (90 kgf⋅cm, 78 in.⋅lbf)

    [*]INSTALL RADIATOR ASSEMBLY (See steps 4 and 5 in radiator installation)

    [*]INSTALL WATER PUMP PULLEY, FAN WITH FLUID COUPLING AND DRIVE BELT

    • Align the matchmarks, and install the water pump pulley and fan fluid coupling with the 4 nuts.
    • Install the drive belt by turning the drive belt tensioner clockwise.
    • Stretch the belt tight and tighten the 4 nuts. Torque: 16 N⋅m (165 kgf⋅cm, 12 ft⋅lbf)

    [*]INSTALL AIR CLEANER, VAF METER AND INTAKE AIR CONNECTOR PIPE

    [*]INSTALL AIR CLEANER DUCT

    [*]FILL WITH ENGINE COOLANT

    [*]START ENGINE AND CHECK FOR LEAKS

    [*]CHECK AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL

    [*]CHECK IGNITION TIMING (See ignition timing inspection and adjustment in Engine Mechanical)

    [*]INSTALL ENGINE UNDER COVER

    [*]ROAD TEST VEHICLE

    • Check for abnormal noise, shock, slippage, correct shift points and smooth operation.

    [*]RECHECK ENGINE COOLANT LEVEL ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM

ELECTRIC COOLING FAN (On–Vehicle Inspection)

  • CHECK COOLING FAN OPERATION WITH LOW TEMPERATURE (Below 88C (190F)
    • Turn the ignition switch ON.
    • Check that the cooling fan stops. If not, check the cooling fan relay and ECT switch, and check for a separated connector or severed wire between the cooling fan relay and ECT switch.
    • Disconnect the ECT switch connector.
    • Check that the cooling fan rotates. If not, check the fan main relay, cooling fan relay, cooling fan, fuses, and check for short circuit between the cooling fan relay and ECT switch. Reconnect the ECT switch connector.

    [*]CHECK COOLING FAN OPERATION WITH HIGH TEMPERATURE (Above 97C (207F)

    • Start the engine, and raise coolant temperature to above 97C (207F)
    • Check that the cooling fan rotates If not, replace the ECT switch.

COOLING FAN INSPECTION

  • INSPECT COOLING FAN
    • Disconnect the fan connector.
    • Connect battery and ammeter to the cooling fan connector.
    • Check that the cooling fan rotates smoothly, and check the reading on the ammeter. Standard amperage: 6.0–7.4 A
    • Reconnect the fan connector

COOLING FAN REMOVAL (Installation is in the reverse order of removal)

  • REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVER
  • REMOVE AIR CLEANER DUCT
  • DISCONNECT UPPER RADIATOR HOSE FROM RADIATOR
  • REMOVE COOLING FAN
    • Disconnect the cooling fan connector.
    • Disconnect the ECT switch wire from the wire clamp
    • Remove the 3 bolts and cooling fan.

COMPONENTS FOR DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY

COOLING FAN DISASSEMBLY (Assembly is in the reverse order of disassembly)

  • REMOVE FAN
  • REMOVE FAN MOTOR
    • Disconnect the wire and connector from the fan shroud.
    • Remove the 3 screws and fan motor.

Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Switch ECT SWITCH INSPECTION

  • REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVER
  • DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT
  • REMOVE ECT SWITCH
    • Disconnect the ECT switch connector.
    • Remove the ECT switch.
    • Remove the O–ring the ECT switch.

    [*]INSPECT ECT SWITCH

    • Using an ohmmeter, check that there is no continuity between the terminals when the coolant temperature is above 101C (214F)
    • Using an ohmmeter, check that there is continuity between the terminals when the coolant temperature is below 91C (196F) If continuity is not as specified, replace the switch.

    [*]REINSTALL ECT SWITCH

    • Install a new O–ring to the ECT switch.
    • Apply soapy water on the O–ring.
    • Install the ECT switch. Torque: 7.4 N⋅m (75 kgf⋅cm, 65 in.⋅lbf)
    • Connect the ECT switch connector.

    [*]REFILL WITH ENGINE COOLANT

    [*]START ENGINE AND CHECK FOR LEAKS

    [*]REINSTALL ENGINE UNDER COVER

Fan Main Relay ("RDI FAN MAIN") FAN MAIN RELAY INSPECTION

  • REMOVE RELAY BOX COVER
  • REMOVE FAN MAIN RELAY
  • INSPECT FAN MAIN RELAY
    • Inspect relay continuity
      • Using an ohmmeter, check that there is continuity between terminals 3 and 5.
      • Check that there is continuity between terminals 2 and 4.
      • Check that there is no continuity between terminals 1 and 4. If continuity is not as specified, replace the relay.

  • Inspect relay operation
    • Apply battery voltage across terminals 3 and 5.
    • Using an ohmmeter, check that there is no continuity between terminals 2 and 4.
    • Check that there is continuity between terminals 1 and 2. If operation is not as specified, replace the relay.

    [*]REINSTALL FAN MAIN RELAY

    [*]REINSTALL RELAY BOX COVER

Cooling Fan Relay ("RDI FAN") COOLING FAN RELAY INSPECTION

  • REMOVE RELAY BOX COVER
  • REMOVE COOLING FAN RELAY
  • INSPECT COOLING FAN RELAY
    • Inspect relay continuity
      • Using an ohmmeter, check that there is continuity between terminals 1 and 2.
      • Check that there is continuity between terminals 3 and 4. If continuity is not as specified, replace the relay.

    [*]Inspect relay operation

    • Apply battery voltage across terminals 1 and 2.
    • Using an ohmmeter, check that there is no continuity between terminals 3 and 4. If operation is not as specified, replace the relay.

    [*]REINSTALL COOLING FAN RELAY

    [*]REINSTALL RELAY BOX COVER

RADIATOR REMOVAL

  • REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVER
  • DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT
  • REMOVE AIR CLEANER DUCT
  • REMOVE NO.2 FAN SHROUD
    • Remove the 2 clips.
    • Disconnect the claw of the No.2 fan shroud from the hook of the No.1 fan shroud, and remove the No.2 fan shroud.

    [*]DISCONNECT HOSES FROM RADIATOR Disconnect these hoses from the radiator:

    • Reservoir tank inlet hose
    • Upper radiator hose
    • Lower radiator hose
    • 2 A/T oil cooler hoses (Plug the hose ends)

    [*]REMOVE RADIATOR ASSEMBLY

    • Disconnect the ECT switch for electric cooling fan connector and wire.
    • Disconnect the electric cooling fan connector and wire.
    • Remove the nut and upper radiator support. Remove the 2 upper radiator supports.
    • Lift out the radiator assembly.
    • Remove the 2 lower radiator supports.

    [*]REMOVE ELECTRIC COOLING FAN FROM RADIATOR

    [*]REMOVE NO.1 FAN SHROUD FROM RADIATOR

    • Remove the 2 bolts.
    • Disconnect the lower sides of the No.1 fan shroud from the 2 hooks of the radiator, and remove the radiator.
    • Remove the 2 cushions from the No.1 fan shroud.

    [*]REMOVE ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE (ECT) SWITCH FROM RADIATOR

    • Remove the ECT switch.
    • Remove the O–ring from the ECT switch

RADIATOR INSTALLATION

  • INSTALL ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE (ECT) SWITCH TO RADIATOR
    • Install a new O–ring to the ECT switch.
    • Apply soapy water to the O–ring.
    • Install the ECT switch. Torque: 7.4 N⋅m (75 kgf⋅cm, 65 in.⋅lbf)

    [*]INSTALL NO.1 FAN SHROUD TO RADIATOR

    • Install the 2 cushions to the radiator.
    • Connect the lower sides of the No.1 fan shroud to the 2 hooks of the radiator.
    • Install the No.1 fan shroud with the 2 bolts.

    [*]INSTALL ELECTRIC COOLING FAN TO RADIATOR

    [*]INSTALL RADIATOR ASSEMBLY

    • Install the 2 lower radiator supports to the radiator.
    • Place the radiator assembly on the body bracket.
    • Install the radiator with the 2 upper radiator supports and 2 nuts. Torque: 12 N⋅m (120 kgf⋅cm, 9 ft⋅lbf) HINT: After installation, check that the rubber cushion (A) of the support is not depressed.
    • Connect the electric cooling fan connector and wire.
    • Connect the ECT switch (for electric cooling fan) connector and wire.

    [*]CONNECT HOSES TO RADIATOR

    [*]INSTALL NO.2 FAN SHROUD

    • Connect the claw of the No.2 fan shroud from the hook of the No.1 fan shroud.
    • Install the No.2 fan shroud with the 2 clips.

    [*]INSTALL AIR CLEANER DUCT

    [*]FILL WITH ENGINE COOLANT

    [*]CHECK AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL

    [*]START ENGINE AND CHECK FOR LEAKS

    [*]INSTALL ENGINE UNDER COVER

Nice write up there Buddy all this information can save us so much time that's what forums are all about,well done for taking the time.

Norman

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