Tinonline

I'm in favour of Lexus dealer supplied battery: good experience - they did the swap too on the spot - all part of the purchase. Having some experience of the blessed factory supply chain...a company might manufacture for another under a different brand however the specification might be very different and so the quality. Often you get what you pay for - or over-pay for.

An auto electrician declined to visit my stranded Jag a few years back...he was fed up with attending Lion battery failure. I was a bit sceptical. It was a leakage of voltage and this is often caused by systems not fully shutting off that often caused issues. The battery was mid life. Give Eurocarparts full credit they refunded me and I bought a premium unit. Problem solved.

About £30 each...

Yes they are called splitters. Ones for the laters cars are on Lexus Parts Direct...

Yup battery can cause chaos...check terminals are clean and lightly greased...top of battery clean to prevent tracking. Recharge. Spray wd40 on earth/ electrics to connectors near aircon pump and underneath this area where there is an earth lead bolted to a bottom bracket next to and part of fan carrier bracket...might need a clean.

Me too...there are some on scappers on flea bay ... you sure it’s not better to buy the x2 lower lips for each side and respray? 🔧😌

Err a few scratches 🤭😷😂 By the way the flickering dash lights....battery was flat. No probs before working on the car and I know disconnect before...depends upon what you are doing. If you disconnect earth leads/open door and boot etc the battery drains very fast. Charged over night and so far all good.

All well that ends well...sort of... Everything is back together. I had the studs moved from old to my hand for a tenner. I had to work the threads as they were varying in roughness from their extraction. Avoiding taking things apart cost me time and patience: I elected to drain most of the coolant and pop the hoses off. This makes access much easier. You don’t have to remove the passenger side cam sprocket cover but unscrew it, unplug one part of wiring via connector and unbolt the long front coolant feed pipe and move away...it will wee out a lot of coolant. The cover can be pulled away enough to gain clearance. If I had to do the job again, now...I’d be very swift indeed. Certainly I was rusty. The fan cowling is shot through age so I used copious amounts of superglue. The fan bracket side bolts took a bit of time to get in and I was worried about stripping them: there are a mix of 12 and 14mm bolts and I tightened and unslackened a few times wondering if the side bolts would go in. My conclusion is do them up but not to final torque/ lubricate those side bolts and push very firmly as you screw them in...they have a leading edge to assist their initial journey and seating. They take a lot of turns which can be alarming...they went home. Next job 🤭🙄will be rear discs and pads.

Yup - confirmed that the studs were missing and I've tried to be creative with allen bolts etc. but the tolerances are very precise - it's bad enough getting the nuts on with the original set-up. A small garage around the corner from me is swapping them over. I should have things sorted by Saturday providing the electrics behave when everything is back in it's rightful place.🙄

On to part 2 of the saga. Resigned myself to stripping down what was required. That did the trick and I removed the bracket this morning. Try as I might I could not get the studs to shift even using the 2 bolt method and think I need better bolts to try this technique. Of course the Gates kit should have some with new studs...from Rock Auto...but didn't. The parts box was well and truly damaged inside the shipping box...and it looks like the packet of studs has come out. This is the second time Rock Autos part box has been well mashed up. Now I'm stuck trying to get the studs swapped over or just get the Lexus part as quickly as possible.

Having some time and the weather a few degrees warmer I set about changing my fan carrier bracket on the 400. (Year 2000). I was prepared for some work. But the spanner gods were not with me. I ended up draining the rad as the top hose had to be separated to pull the fan cowl up and away. The bracket doesn’t look like it will come out with a lot of the pipe work out of the way. Do I really have to remove the r/h cam cam wheel cover? To make matters worse the dash lights were flickering and indicators not showing on locking up the car-ah I forgot I disconnected an earth wire under the car to get at a bolt. So I replaced it-and clipped the wiring connector onto to engine front: no difference. The Gates replacement doesn’t have the studs-any tips on how to transfer them- there are x4. The pulley etc goes over them. I’ve done a cambelt change...this is as bad. ☹️

Thanks to Bluesman and The-Acre I ended up in a very cold Brighton to at last, get to Grove Garage. As mentioned, Lee is ex-Lexus and the garage in addition to catering to all vehicles is badged up as a Toyota Specialist as indeed they are. Lee also repairs and fabricates exhaust systems. The entrance is small and tight but leads to a good sized workshop. They were very busy. Once the heat shields were off, it first appeared as though a quick repair would be in order with two leaks towards the front of the Y on both sides. These welded up but the driver's side section towards the Y would not hold the weld at all. Visibly all looked well but the metal was thin and as the pipes joined, there was hidden rust underneath and the weld kept pin holing. So it became apparent a larger repair was required. Lee fabricated a new Y section and joined this to the rear pipe and moved the muffler box a few inches back to get a better fit and weld. Total damage all in was £233. Looks good and tidy. At last I have a quiet motor and the correct back-pressure to get the smooth, full power delivery back. 😁 No doubt the petrol consumption will be back to normal - i'd taken a look at whilst trundling along at 60 mph and it looked a bit mean to me...a little off. Next on the list when I can get the weather sorted: have OE rear discs/pads ready to fit. Fan carrier bracket (Gates), ready to fit. Indicator unit ready to fit. Btw velcro is working well keeping old unit in place. I really have to sort out the dings in a few panels, the wheels and the front bumper that looks as though its molting. In our conversation on my 400, Lee said: "Don't sell it will you..." they are indeed rare and prized motors that will become desirable. It's got that shape that looks awful in some respects but in time assumes an attractive aspect. Look at the classics people crave now. No problem with adding my support for Grove Garage. I've discovered and met a garage of choice thanks to The-Acre and Bluesman. It is worth the trip from Reading: important to book in and agree timescales if you are coming from afar as this is a successful and busy busy business. I'll be using again.

Hi An off the hoof reply...it sounds as though you followed the new battery installation procedure...or I don’t think the car would start. But the car has to recognise the fob. My later motor (year 2000) requires ignition on and left for 2 minutes then off and then restart. So fob and system can sync. Settings ought to be retained. If in doubt reset everything and just for your own sanity put new batteries into the key fob itself. It’s well worth getting the owners’ handbook if you don’t have one.

Hi 😁 Was postponed and weather etc permitting I’ll be in on Wednesday. I must add I’m an essential worker and need the car to get to work and have worried about travelling at all...

Panic slightly over...lifted the rod firmly with bonnet ajar which undid the spring loaded hook. Had a better view of the unit and the screws and end bots are rusted together so removal of the unit will destroy it - shred the plastic. 🔧🧐

Hi Following the breakage of my aux bonnet release catch under the grill I now can’t open the bonnet. So the cabin release works ok but I can’t unhook it. Any ideas? Year 2000 LS400

Thanks...had another look this morning...the front headlight bracket bit is in fact intact but missing from indicator unit. Rear bit is ok on indicator but missing from rear of headlight.😁 I’ve gone for a new indicator unit as two retainers should work. I’ll place some Velcro along the side just to add support. When I did my cambelt change at around 72k miles I replaced everything apart from the fan bracket. Now at 93k miles it’s getting noisy on cold start up but quietens down quite quickly. This morning: cold but not as last few days it was fine. Wish I’d replaced that so it’s another impending task. I’ve attached some pics of the offending bonnet catch. The section shown has sheared off.

A few gremlins are out and about in my LS400 year 2000. The auxiliary bonnet catch has given up the ghost so an OE at outrageous £’s per square inch will have to do.☹️ More perplexing is trying to keep an indicator unit in situ. The top bracket has all but gone having sheared in a number of places...I drilled a couple of holes in what was left and have twice secured with wire and now string to keep it in the bottom of the unit moved out - cardboard wedges for now. The side lug on the head lamp for the indicator has long gone. Also that wing has a slight ding in it from the previous owner. Fitting a new unit will just result in a sheared top bracket...fitting new headlight unit seems a bit drastic and costly...wing in that area does not look out of shape. Any ideas would be welcome.🙂

I’ll DM you👍

Hi I’d check fluid level which I’m sure you’ve done. Look for any leaks around reservoir, master cylinder and brake lines, calipers. See how worn the pads are. Best tool is a self bleeder. It’s a standard size. From memory I recall the wheel that is furthest away in terms of position is not actually so in terms of brake circuitry. I don’t think it will be the fluid itself...you might have a tired, failing brake master. Not the end of the world...as always with a Lexus once fixed, whatever it is it’ll be good for years.

I spoke to Lee from Gove Garage in Brighton. Very helpful and knowledgeable as an ex Lexus mechanic. I’m paying a visit early next month for pipe surgery...he’ll check the EGR pipe at the same time. If the flanges are shot he’ll cut them off and replace them...sounds good to me. 🔧👍

Thanks for this I’ll give them a call. 👍🙂

Wow that’s good value. I’m in Reading...Brighton is doable...

Hi I’ve seen a discounted price of £440 from one Lexus OE and dealer. Flanges are serviceable, the blow is passenger side top under the heat shield. It’s not in the classic elbow of the Y. Visually it doesn’t look a mess...yep the flanges and bolts are rusty with a build up of rust. The section would need to come out for repair if a repair is viable. I reckon if the repair touches or exceeds £200 then I’d bite the bullet: fit and forget...😌 I can’t complain as apart from usual maintenance there’s been little to worry about. My Christmas job is replacing rear discs and pads: £200 for OE. For parts - and I’m ok with that. They’ll be arriving anytime soon.

Hi Any advice where I can source the y section in the exhaust. It’s post cat from the flanges to rear section... I think this is a common failure point. The section has heat shields...I’d rather replace than attempt a repair. LS400 Year 2000. The local ATS will fit it: they can’t source the part though - I’ve known them for years and they’re always helpful. cheers 🤢