Tinonline

Needle is ok or you can buy a tool for cleaning and repositioning. I recommend this as it’s less likely to damage the pipe or unit. silly question...sure they’re too high? They have to hit the lights at driving speed and they will spray up over the bonnet...that’s normal...might pepper the windscreen too.

Tricky...inSpain where accident rate is horrific both my sons 18 and 22 get cheap insurance on an Alfa 155 Sport in red with spoilers and it’s a great car. In the UK my 22 year old gets quite cheap insurance on our Jag S 4ltr. Which was a complete surprise to me although it is on our policy... Don’t get hung up on no claims...get driving. You can get your own policy when economically viable.

I've done my rounds of brakes. Disaster with Pagid set-up on the front of my Renault Laguna - couldn't get them to stop squealing. I was selling the vehicle anyway so off it went. Textar on 1979 Porsche 911 Targa & BMW 635csi - good braking & wear. Mintex on Jaguar 4ltr S type. Squeaked a bit as they bedded in but are really excellent in terms of braking & wear. Brembo on XKR - Brembo calipers on the Jags are poor quality - the alloy expands and blows to such an extent you either replace them or have to file down replacement pads to fit. Stops so quickly...in an emergency you'd probably collect a line of rear end shunts as you stop but nobody else behind you can! I was wary of hard breaking at junctions... Lexus discs and pads on front - Mk4 LS400 - perfect. I've got a full set of Brembo pads to go on my 1995 Alfa Romeo 155 Sport - it's a L/H drive out in Spain. That's a whole story on its own.🙂

I agree with all comments. There’s a figure for not quite classic but lot of motor for the money motors...it’ll be priced up at £7,995. I might pay a negotiated amount off this for a Mk4 Year 2000 in the right colour and a dealer history.

The age is what you least need to worry over...just that there’s no hidden faults. MOT history check will assist here...🙂

Get OEM as they last forever and are perfect. Even dealers do a good deal. You do have to shop around.

I agree with cruisermark. I bought some lower ball joints from RockAuto in the US. I don’t get the cheapest: they’re Beck &Arnley. You need to factor in VAT and tax plus fee. I try and fit OE but some parts are excessively expensive.

You might be better off getting a new float as a 2nd hand one could have some years on it. The float itself looses it’s sealed coat and saturates so turns into a sinker. The light for low fluid stays on. They’re around 70 odd quid but at least will last about 20 years. I confess I took a wire off mine so it shows on ignition and goes out but that’s it. I really must just replace it. Some folk repaired theirs but I couldn’t get mine to recover.

I got rid of my 4.2 XKR with its notorious and shocking ZF gearbox same unit that plagued Range Rovers and BMWs. Build quality was poor and the coil packs went, rear shocks with 50k on the clock. Wife’s 4ltr S type is awful to work on with corroded a/c pipe and very difficult to cure cam cover gaskets that are a major pain job. Split header tank 2nd in 70k history and replacement thermostat housing with improved aftermarket unit, two water pumps and front and rear suspension work. This has a Ford gearbox and it needs a solenoid...can’t go on. Oh yeh and coil packs... Lexus 400: cambelt, water pump pulleys, front discs and pads, I’ve got ball joints and need lower bar bushes.

On the button as always Malc👍😂

Wow that’s a red rag😂 I have a long and current history with Jaguar and Alfa. I didn’t expect to be with a Lexus for long but I saw the light. I find the forum responsive, very polite and open to debate and incredibly supportive. I’ve been talked through a couple of stuck points on a cambelt change. Sorry to my US friends but US forums are full of know it alls, the need to redesign stuff, thread hi-jacking is a complete nightmare....all marques. what more can I say?🧐

Not sure if it works on Lexus but does on a Merc: disconnect the MAF If mid or rough running goes you have your culprit.

Looks great...

Sorry to be boring but given the importance of tyres: yours are old and near end of life...of course you would change these at the earliest opportunity. They don’t wear completely evenly so can easily cause or contribute to issues. Front discs do warp so if they’re old... Lower control arm bush is a weak area... MK 4 will fly through an MOT like mine but I know I have to replace lower ball joints: leaking grease but solid = not good enough and lower control arm bushes=look okayish = shot.

Car looks great too...😂

Good choice...there are plenty of available OEM and alternative parts for a 400. I have used the US a couple of times when the exchange rate was better😁 and sorted timing belt, all pulleys and water pump for under £300 for Gates parts. I fitted these myself. Recently I replaced the front brakes with genuine parts. They’ll last for ages. I’m biased but I think the MK 4 is the one to go for. Check that the belt has been done. The wheels are always an issue. The alloy breaks down. A genuine low mileage A1 vehicle is worth money although we balk at the prices: Good one’s go for 2k to 5k but most are trend lower as they have mature mileage. Just my opinions and there’s plenty more experience than I have on the forum...

As always wise words here in the replies so here’s my half-penny worth. If you don’t want to do anything given the work...sell it on. I have same dilemma with my S type Jag which is just such a b to work on. I’m fed up and want to get rid but it’s wife’s charriot. Gearbox needs work and aircon pipe is a good £700 quid fit and despite my prowess 🤭, is not a diy job. Tell me that’s not going to be a stinking great classic as a 4 ltr. But in whose lifetime? Or, run and do essentials: some years will be worse than others. I ‘d have to spend 2k to on paint, dents, wheels on my LS 400 but boy the rest is very good. If I, we, just put away per month, a good amount for repairs etc. We’d always have a budget. Only if life was so simple... This issue is why cars get scrapped...what a complete waste of resources. Get 2nd hand parts except obvious: brakes, suspension joints. If you can work on some yourself and have a realistic mechanic/body shop you will be well served. Ok, so don’t think about the value of the car. May be more about the cost of running a vehicle with repairs...even new cars have that. I pay less when I hear of £1000 repairs to modern motors... My LS 400 cost me £750 quid. The Return on investment...depends...but no capital loss really. I’d get that back.

Good luck! If you get stuck this forum will help...👍

Certainly take a seat. The good news is a perfectly serviceable second hand part, cleaned and if you dare, painted will be yours for a few quid. Fitting a few quid. Leaving you many hundreds of pounds to invest in a new chair to collapse into when you persist in calling main dealers. I do buy OE parts btw. I lie down before the call.😂

There must be a colour code somewhere on the car.

Might be the same one...

No really...a repair is a new core inserted not just a solder repair. Good as new.

Is it surface rust or real corrosion? I’m surprised given Lexus build quality you are experiencing this. Bodywork can get caught but major structure in quality cars is a bit unusual.

I have had a few rad problems over the years. I went to a little trader who liked cash but could repair any radiator. When I look back on it he was a bargain. Yes they can be rebuilt to A1 standard.

Well it certainly appears to be a bearing problem: you might have lost a strip of balance weights?