Tinonline

Oh I can’t go out...I’ve been very good and haven’t driven for a month...wife has...for the food run...

Hey Malc and Roger It is true that the MOT might not pick up the upper arm fault but as the MOT says it is minimum requirement...you know me I want it very good. The fuel suggestion makes a lot of sense and I will do this. I run it on Tesco stuff with their Premium once in a while. But there’s plenty of experience that really rates the Premium fuels.

Well I don't know how you are. Hopefully well. My family has been down with some bug but we've no idea if it was the Covid or another - symptoms can be so similar to other viruses...whatever it was it was not nice. I'm just about still working although I reckon I've a month maybe weeks from being furloughed and given I've been royally screwed most of my working life...I remain unimpressed. 🤣 I'm coming up for my MOT which I should get. My Mk4 LS400 had a near miss last year with idle CO2 not in range - a new air filter and cat clean bottle and a thrash around fixed that. If that comes back up I'll need a new O2 - I think the front passenger side one usually causes trouble? This year they may find the clonking upper arms which at 93k miles need replacement...I'd rather not order anything at the moment unless I really have to. What I do have in the parts bin (the boot) is oil, air, oil filter, plug gasket. I'll look to do this work at the weekend when the weather will pick up. Another task I can do is fit the washer float I bought from a far distant country some time ago. It'll get me out of the house and a change of scenery...I've also started running again but boy is that painful... 😵

I don't have an answer other than I'm sure the pins will be the same and fairly standard. Carriers could be different though but a part number search on line will give you the answer although may take a bit of digging about. Is the old bracket written off...don't tell me it's sod's law and you can drill or get the old bit out...😪 The big beef is most places are closed at the moment but...you can order stuff on line. Worse case order from the US to get the part you want. I'm only ordering in-extremise at the moment i.e. I've stopped. If it's your only mode of transport etc etc I'm sure you'll make the right decision.

It’ll come from a big tub of premium oil...my local dealer uses Shell Helix.

My new Lexus sources went in April 2015. Saying nothing so as not to tempt fate. 🙂

I'm with Malc on this. I shopped around comparing cold start power and having to ensure size and terminal position...ended up with one from local Lexus dealer at an ok price. Worth checking with your dealer. It's not worth getting a bargain brand: been there and done that...ended up with a refund and paying more for a top name. (On the late S Type Jag that I scapped at 73k miles,,.it stopped a slow drain that was plaguing me...).

Looks a decent car and the mileage is fine. Certainly is a classic. Have you had a look at the Mk4 or datewise 98-00 last of the line? I think they all suffer similarly with front brake disc warping, front suspension, cambelt and this looks harder to replace over later models? But you have it covered.

Like Malc (hi Malc 😊) I have one side UCA playing up but the other is ok - driver's side is not happy. If buying from abroad with postage it's probably worth getting the pair. If you are on a budget and cashflow is king - I'd get the best you can afford and only do what is required - the one side is fine... The-Acre rightly says tax and admin charge will add to the bill; so needs to be factored in. Nevertheless, Rockauto are very good value and have plenty of choice. I don't expect to claim on warranty as from experience wherever you are...UK included, this can be very difficult at the best of times. I use the warranty info to get the best I can for the £/$.

Part sourcing is a major exercise and we are poorly served in the UK, no doubt about it.. I try and retain Lexus parts wherever possible - but there is a fair and reasonable limit or value to a part. I have no issue buying from Rockauto and I opt for quality over price. I breached that principle last month, probably for the first time and I could have done better...paid £70 for wiper blade refills and a coolant cap... oh the pain, the pain...at least the parts manager was good enough to fit the blades. Then I got a windscreen washer float from Amayama... genuine article for £38.30 all in so that was a win. Next shop is for upper front suspension links - looking like Rockauto for these...

😯it's a bit of a job to get out...I trust that is true: I always reply to these statement: "What?! Naaah - I would do it but I can't be bothered it's not challenging enough - should take 10 minutes tops..." Reminds me of VW selling on the fact repairs were simple as you could get at everything in/around the engine by whipping out x4 bolts and just disconnecting a few wires and gear linkage out came the complete engine assy.. This then after purchase turned to a "plumber's whistle": 😧 oh that's a job...we'll have to take the engine out to do that... The Indy repair shops are great as complex repairs like electrical units, amps etc that could cost a lot to replace even from 2nd hand parts come back good as new for a reasonable sum. Hope you get sorted soon.

Thanks for your replies...I might try a nut splitter if it’ll go on...I’d have to remove stuff for a grinder and buy a grinder...I’ll investigate further.👍🙂

Given the milder weather today here in the tropic of Thames Valley, I set about changing the drop links. I can get a 17mm socket on the lower nut but even with my electric torque gun and WD40 it won't move. I thought if I could get it moving at all, I would then use a spanner and allen key or bit to hold it. There is very little room for the spanner. To me it looks like the bottom ball joint etc. has to be dismantled to get proper access It seemed a bit pointless pondering and fiddling so I drew a halt. What are the Lexus manual steps for this job? 🥺

Thanks to you both...I do have the roll bar bushes...yep and the Allen key have a key and impact version sockets...will use axle stands and my jack...

Hi Having had the lower arm bushes and ball joints replaced I've experienced much improvement. The light knock over bumps has not gone - although this was not my reason for replacing said bushes and ball joints - they were at or beyond serviceable operation. I've bought a pair of front roll bar drop links as these are likely to, either be the culprits, or require replacement anyway. (Rock Auto - Premium choice: Proforged at £63 all in for the pair). Question is: What are the exact replacement steps? Doesn't look the same as earlier cars... My 400 is Year 2000 (at 93,000 miles). Bar above bits all original. Any help and guidance would be much appreciated.

Well these barges...the Mk4 is quicker than the v8 Jag S type as I had an S type...scrapped at 73000 miles...

I see...might be time for some recon callipers?

Yep always need to check the VAT etc but worse case still worth the extra. Sometimes it is included but not always...

Hi Are you sure they are not removable and haven't been welded in by time/heat and dust? On the MK4 all metal work falls out and clips in! 😀 Definitely need photos... The pic is from Home Depot ad in the US showing some of the metal work from 1995-2000 for one side. There are also two plates/inserts please refer to Autozone diagram = excellent.

Rock auto are ok as you know what you’re getting. I don’t go for the cheapies but opt for the daily driver quality in the hope it will be quality. 🤞

Doesn’t take much to flood them if you do miss the usually clean, crisp start-up.

I’m in Reading...there’s an independent in Maidenhead -UK Teknics 01628 626996 no idea how good they are. You might just get a local garage to fix it...hang on...you have undertaken the battery reconnection procedure? This is detailed in the handbook and syncs the security system and key to ignition system. Won’t start if you don’t do it. Can’t remember but you stick the key in for a number of minutes, switch off, re enter key and fire up. It is on the forum....

Wow I can wield spanners but not like that... Axle stands don’t give you the clearance and on front suspension can be a challenge. On my front caliper bolts my friendly tyre place that know me from years of MOTs helped me out...one side would not play ball...couldn’t believe it. The only heat source I have to shift bolts is my wife’s cooking torch for glazing but that does not cut it...🤪. If you have cutting stuff and can use it...great...just buy new bolts etc.

Sounds like the seller is being more economical than a hybrid 🤪

Does sound like a dealer hiding and with a very poor attitude to boot. Agree with my friends’ comments above. Walk away I think most owners know a decent amount about their cars...find one that does. There are quite a few good ones on the market.