goodoldgrandad

I think if you have a standard stock car with no up-grades than the standard oil filter from Toyota is best. Any up-rated mods may require a better quality performance filter. I've got one from the local Toyota dealer (be it for the Supra TT for my Aristo Mk2) but if you want mail order you could try www.toyotalexusspecialists.co.uk based in London.

I decided to put new discs front and rear (10 grove), keep the Lexus callipers, new Redstuff brake pads, and fit braided Stainless steel brake hoses. However, I've just spoken to a Lexus dealer and it sounds a bit daunting - it is electronic brake bleeding and self-bleeding system that you need to tap in to the master cyclinder ECU to do, and 9 times out of 10 once you take the brake fluid out the Master Cyclinder ends up needing replacing (at a cost of approx £2000). Is this all scare tacticts to make me use the Lexus Dealer? Anyone know of the exact procedure of the brake bleeding operation? :duh:

Thanks for the feedback - I've currently got Lexus GS300 standard alloys on to replace the original chrome V300 ones. Any web address for "mk4dotnet" formum please?

Can anyone suggest any reasonable price/performance break disks and pads for the V300 MK2 (1998 model) and the best place to buy them? Having done a few tweaks I seem to be able to accelerate quicker than I can stop!! Also the standard breaks always seem a bit spoungy to me.

I might get around to a seperate Boost guage later. Blitz front grill in place and provision made for new Induction Air Intake (should be here next week).

Looks more like a Knitting patten book !! I'll retain it for reference and could be useful. Thanks. I'm just waiting as well for my Greddy device to come from Japan to see if it has any instruction with it. If not it's on with the rubber gloves, mask, and surgical overalls to perform a minor operation or two under the bonnet. :duh:

Thanks - I'll give this modern technology a go and post some pics later.

I'll take some pictures, but how do you post them up? I've no-where personally to up-load them for a http type link.

Do you know what the Greddy part number is for your BCC? It would be interesting to know if we have been recommended different parts (as nothing is specified for the Aristo specifically). I've gone for just de-cat on the front end, as I'm told that decatting both front and back can lead to engine/senor damage unless you have the ECU re-mapped. You then have the problem at MOT time, where as it is likely to pass the MOT with the front cat missing (especially if you fill the tank up with some clean burn fuel - like Optimax - before you take it in for the test). Have you gone for any Air Induction change to complement your mods? I'm just considering this and looking for recommendations for the best one to fit. Don't forget to tell the insurance company about the mods. I've done this with mine and the premium (for the full year) has increased by an acceptable £68 and includes covering the value of the kit I've added as well as the performance gain. I've just fitted a Blizt front grill to complete the de-badging exercise.

Yes spot on - in here under a white plastic cover. There appears to be two different terminal layouts available, so I've traced the wires back from the Turbo Sensor. See the post on the Greddy query for all the details at: http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/ind...showtopic=35746 :D

Yes have a look at the post I made for Blitz Turbo Boost Controller: http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/ind...showtopic=35723 The picture of engine bay shows a large black plastic housing just to right of radiator, slightly back. Unscrew the three fixing bolts, lift lid, lift off inner left hand plastic cover and it's there. Disconnect the -ve battery cable before any electrical work is probably advisable. Make sure you have the right terminal layout as there appears to be two different types - the one on this post is correct to mine. I've made sure by tracing the wires from the Turbo Pressures Sensor itself. To find this go slightly to left of ECU box, follow the large intake plastic tube backwards which joins the cast manifold. Follow this about half way back and the turbo sensor is the three wire device on the left. The middle wire (which on mine is black/yellow) is the senor Output you need. You need to cut this (either at the sensor or in the ECU and fit the Greddy device in between (white wire to sensor end, green wire to ECU end). The red and black wire on the Greddy device goes to +ve and -ve connection of a suitable power source (which I'm doing via a fuse). I've been recommended (and on order from Japan) Greddy Part No:15510019 which is specifically for late Supra TT (mines a 1998 Aristo). Expensive but necessary. Calibration is recommended as follows: Disconnect white and green wire (so don't bother connecting them first!!), but keep red to +ve (12v) and black to -Ve (earth). Put voltmeter between earth connection and Green (output wire) to positive end of meter. Connect white wire to +ve (12v). Adjust Greddy adjustment screw so meter reads 4.3v for year 95 or younger, 4.1v for cars 96 onwards. When adjusted, connect White and Green wires between Turbo Sensor wires as discribed above. Hope fully this will do the trick. If I knew how to up-load a photo on here life would be simpler than this esay!! :duh: The Connector layout drawing on here is not complete - anybody able to fill in the missing wires or where the senor signals go?

I'll have a look - it's the only one left to open!!

Consider fitting a turbo timer - I've done that on mine. It works out the time to leave the engine running before switching it off, depending on how hard you have been driving it. It reomves the guesswork of "should I leave it on for two minutes or 30 seconds". Don't forget that in the UK you must remain in your car until the engine switches off. I'd also recommend warming any and all car engines before thrashing it!! The mark 2 VVTi engine I'm told is less prone to such damage, but all turbos tend to need some care to prolong life.

No !! Can't find the black plastic box the electronics are in. Still searching!!

No I still can't find the ECU, but your wiring diagram for the Aristo is totally different to the one I was given from Japan (which is supposed to be the same as the Supra TT). I'll have to find the ECU and identify which is which.

My mistake - I meant the Turbo Boost Cut Controller (not fuel cut device), which I've got. I'm just seeking clarification of the connections/wires on the Aristo TT as opposed to the Supra TT. I still can't find the ECU in the engine bay!!

I've just been told that the ECU is in the offside engine bay of the Aristo TT MK2. :D If someone can tell me how to upload a picture off my hard drive to display on this forum I have a sketch illustration (small jpg picture file) of the parts breakdown, but not the actual wiring information.

Try looking at http://mkiv.com/techarticles/bcc/bcc_install/bcc_intro.htm which is where I picked up some details. As you say, this is for the Supra Twin Turbo, but I'm told the control unit is the same (although the wire colours may be different - you will need therefore to look at the connector block information and trace the wires from this I think). As for finding it I'm about to pull up the passenger carpet to have a look under there - unless anyone else has other clues? I was recommended NOT to go for a manual Boost Controller as there is no limit protection - I've just gone for the Blitz dual solenoid unit (not yet installed) which I believe has pre-settable over boost limits to tweak. If you hear a big bang I've done something wrong - if it works without a mild case of death I'll let you know what I've been doing. If you find anything out yourself please keep the forum going as we seem to be living parallel lives!!

Just thought - if you meant am I fitting something to over-ride to normal turbo pressure sensor to prevent the management system shutting down the answer is yes - I'm going to use the Greddy fuel cut voltage regulator.

No not as yet. I planned to be limiting the Boost with the Blitz Controller to that recommended on the Mkiv club site for the standard Supra TT engine without re-build (limited to 1.2), and understood the Bliltz unit had user settable safety cut limits to protect against over boost problems (so you need not have a seperate over boost cut controller often recommended on other manufacturers units). Am I wrong? Do I need to install a seperate cut device as well? Unfortunately the Blitz instructions are poor. Any suggestions, installation help, or set-up advice would be greatly appreciated.

Excellent information - thanks everyone. I was confused by details obtianed for the standard GS300 engine layout and didn't think to whip off the top cover in front of me!! Looks a simpler job than I ever anticipated - and other people have said it's a Lexus only garage job.

Perhaps I'm not looking at it from the right starting place!! On the MkII V300 VVTi twin turbo engine I've got (early 1998 production) it is possible with a torch to see the tops of the coil packs on the right of the engine block, but not possible to get near them with any tools and my big hands (unless things come out first). You can't see the left side of the engine block for the twin turbo pipework. Can anyone clarify what is the best procedure to get to the coil packs and spark plugs in the first place!!

OK - I was hoping someone would have found an easier solution rather than dismantling the engine bay on a routine service item. It's a shame Lexus/Toyota overlooked this in the original design - unless they have a hidden flap somewhere under the dash board to load spark plugs in !!

I have just bought a Blitz Turbo Booster (Dual solenoid version) and the fitting instructions are very poor. As the V300 has the Supra engine I did look for clues on the Miv club site, but as the engine bay layout is different I was hoping to find some experience and hints from V300 owners before I start open heart surgery!! If anyone has any photo's or can identify where the best places are to splice in the Boost Controller plumbing it would be very helpful.

Anyone any tips on how to get to and replace spark plugs on the TT. I've got the information for doing this on the GS300 but there is a lot more plumbing in the engine bay on my beast!!