goodoldgrandad

I can't download from the link, any tips on how to do it ?

I'm easily confused, but I just put it down to "senior moments" at my age !! I believe the Vertex normally has leather as standard, but you could get the factory option of cloth/suade as a no-cost variation, and in hot climates cloth seems popular. Like you I've never come across a Mk 2 Vertex that wasn't the V300 (with the sporty bits), and was told this was the case by importers/dealers when I was shopping around to buy mine. I know the Mk 1 came in different trim levels, but I was told that when the Mk 2 was launched in 1997 by Toyota the Vertex became and was the V300 Aristo, and the non-Vertex models equivalent to the GS300 S or GS with non-sporty bits. However, maybe the non-Vertex models are not worth importing so we don't see them on the road !! I've de-badged mine - so it totally confuses everyboby anyhow.

You need to check as I've seen some Mk2 Aristos in the UK that are just the equivalent of the Lexus GS300. The Vertex badge does set the standard for having leather, but the real difference is in the stunning performance. It has the Toyota Supra Twin turbo engine, better sports set-up suspension, 4-wheel steer at high speed, steering wheel gear change for manual over-ride of the auto box. You can easily tweak the set up for 400bhp. This is perhaps the best 4 door luxury sports car around. It is the most practical and safe vehicle at the same time.

You should be OK I think with setting the Boost Controller to give maximum of 1.2 bar with standard stock engine/turbo parts. Some people do run up to 1.3 bar as a quick burst setting on their electronic controllers. The Aristo has ceramic turbos, which should be good upto this Boost setting.

Is the replacement a genuine Lexus/Toyota part specifically for the Aristo/Supra TT ? Otherwise I'm not sure why they are different !!!

I don't know that particular BOV - but if has an external nut or screw then chances are it is adjustable to different pressures, but I'm not sure how you would set it up without the manufacturer's instructions. The BOV is likely to make noises anyway, but the critical thing is to set the release pressure level so it vents at the proper time.

It's 4 wires on my MK2, and seems to be the same as on the GS300. Not sure what's on the MK1 normally, but according to my Workshop Manual it should still be a 4-wire heated Oxygen Sensor, not three. Has yours been changed for a non-heated type?

As far as I know both the Supra TT and Aristo have TWO heated oxygen sensors - one used at the rear of the exhaust manifold (near rear of turbo) and a sub-oxygen sensor used on the exhaust pipe in front of the rear catalytic converter. Both sensors are I think the same unit, with four wires, connectors as follows: 1. HT (to ECU) 2. +B 3. Oxy (screened sensor output wire to ECU, with screen earthed) 4. E (earth, ground connection) These can be tested: disconnect electrical connector. Use a meter - resistance between HT and +B should be 11 to 16 ohms at 20 degrees centegrade. If not it needs replacing. These should be heated oxygen sensors normally, but I have seen people try un-heated versions on other cars (which are ususally just three leads), but these are less stable and not I suspect recommended for the UK mix of weather - particularly in the cold.

I'm not sure such a mechanical pre-restriction is advisable - what happens if one day you're out driving and need to put your foot down in an emergancy to get out of the way of something. It would be sad if the car behaved like a bag of spuds because of a bleeding valve you've tweeked. You save more petrol by anticipation and getting your foot off the accelerator early so you brake less than you do on the few occassions the road is clear and you can kick your foot down.

Easier to keep your foot off the accelerator pedel !!

If you have an aftermarket Blow off Valve - check to see if it is one with an adjustable valve (ie: a small screw that can be tweaked to set the point at which the pressure release valve operates). I've known one on a previous car come loose and had a similar effect - either fit a couple of nuts on the adjusting shaft to lock it in place or glue it once you have adjusted the blow-off-point. By it's nature the BOV vibrates significantly, and so does the pipework around it, so have a good look around for something gone loose. If you have the stock BOV still then maybe pop it back on and try it - at least that will narrow down where the fault lays. Other daft thing to check - the induction filter. Being in the season of falling leaves you haven't got something stuck or flapping about in there - mine this year looked like a hay stack.

I've certainly had problems with "sticking" hot brakes and poor fade - so I'm not alone with having poor combinations on the Aristo!! Whilst similar combinations work on other "sports" cars I've had, maybe the Aristo weight, balance, or brake arrangements on this car makes braking performance different. The Red Stuff pads did not appear noticably different to the Green Stuff for me- just cost more!! I'm going to try the standard stock calipers, brake pipes, and alloy wheels, and have a play with the disks and pads. This potentially could be the lowest cost option for anyone wanting to improve on stopping. If it doesn't work then you'll probably hear the big bang or a loud cry!!

Anyone suggest any brake upgrades if you want to retain the original chrome Aristo wheels or their usual swop for Lexus GS300 alloys (ie: not going to the expense of bigger wheels)?

Yes - stopping safely does help !!

Just got the standard box/pipework at present with the Power Enterprise kit, but plan to do a little winter job to duct in cold air by extending the pipework downwards and removing the fog light. As you say - cold air is better than hot.

Must say I'm impressed with my Power Enterprise air induction kit I have now - good price/performance. Apexi kits worked on my previous cars, but likewise their kit didn't give me any noticable joy on the Aristo. Strange as they work well on the Supra - but maybe an air flow or positioning difference in the engine bay layouts.

So we can eventually "rate" the suggested mods on a price/performance basis, can you give any suggestion of expected (or actual) bhp improvement on what people have fitted (which may be difficult as, like me, you may have done a number of mods together). Whilst each of us will have a different opinion as to what is best for improving the looks, or sound, of the car I'm not convienced that some mods and available kits (most aimed at the Supra TT) are worth while on the Aristo as there physically appears on some only very minor increases in performance (or none at all) - so are they worth the money spent?

Any feedback on the best price/ease of fitting of boost controllers, inductions kits, blow off valves, etc ?

It's finding the bleeping bleeper that's the problem - I've got my hammer out already!!

That probably explains it - the Toyoto Landcruiser and V8 Lexus LS400 appear to have the same oil filter part numbers according to the filter manufacturer's look-up tables. Do I'm not driving a hybrid diesle after all!!!

You could also try Toyota Lexus Specialists - they did mine. Based in Sutton, south of London. www.toyotalexusspecialists.co.uk

As well as speeding the car up, any recommendations of slowing the beast down !! Any indications of costs, actual performance increase, and simplicity to fit would be good for anyone suggesting any performance mod (as clearly there are large product/manufacturer variations on price, easy to fit/good instructions, and effectiveness). It would be good to compile something with facts and figures from this poll (ie: fitting a new exhaust system may make the car sound better, but does it actually improve noticable performance - and which is the best buy?. Would someone be better off spending their money first on a Boost Controller - and if so are the Blitz instructions worst than one of the other makes?).

When starting with a stock unmodified car it is worthwhile considering the performance improvements for any hard-earned cash invested in upgrades and modifications. There does not seem to be anything definiative for the Aristo on the best price/performance parts, what is a good mod - what is an expensive gizmo, what order they should be fitted to get the most out when your budget allows, what mods will stress the reliability of the vehicle, etc. I guess most of you will have made mods to your Aristo, but what really made the noticable performance difference, what can be a DIY mod and what needs garage set-up, what basically gives you the most bucks for your pound for any newby joining us? Assuming someone wants to tweak a road going car with commercially available parts what is suggested? Can we use the framework: Suggested mod:.... Approx cost:......DIY or Garage job:.... Performance improvement made:....Was it worthwhile? ie: Air Induction kit - £105 - DIY - 15 bhp - yes, an easy mod giving smoother acceleration.

If this is an old man's car then I'm glad I'm an old bloke at last!! :D Either way you're not going to do much thrashing on open roads in Hong Kong I guess, so it's whether you want to pose or be comfy in the traffic jams. If you were sensible you would keep to the taxis and the Star Ferry !! From a practical aspect the Aristo is the cheapest and most reliable car in my opinion to servcie and keep on the road. So consider the running, insurance, and repair costs as well as the initial buying costs and residual value - unless you have deep pockets I think you may soon get fed up of the other cars on the list (I did). At the end of the day it's all a matter of personal choice - so do your home work and have some test drives in them ALL before you decide.

I've tried them all, and I've got to say the Aristo Vertex TT MK2 is the most practical car for luxury as well as performance I've driven - and as an "old bloke" that tends to change cars every couple of years I've been through a lot !! Also it is an ideal family car with a good size boot. It is the only car I've had that I would buy the same model again next time. OK it is not as good a handling car as some of the others "sports" specific vehicles - but it is unlikely to get stolen by joy-riders over the others, and you can leave it parked in most places without fear of someone getting jealous and scratching the paintwork. The Aristo is an easy car to modify and up-grade, and parts are relatively low cost. Try to buy one as much of a stock car as possible (without mods), as this usually means it has not been thrashed. Also critical to get full dealer service history with any performance car. For me it is a perfect solution - family car, sports performance, comfy, etc, with the bonus that it can give most "sports cars" a good run for their money. Make a tick list for everything you want in a car, and then be practical and list everything you need in a car - then compare the differences in the cars you are looking at. The Aristo is probably also the safest car to have a crash in - you won't walk away from many cars after a 140mph+ head on accident (which my family did in a GS300, which is the same body gear). Happy shopping!!