goodoldgrandad

All sounds too technical and a big hassel. Is the performance increase good value for money from more simple mods for normal road use? Maybe we should conduct a pole of mods and their effective cost-performance rating. Changing your windscreen wipers can often make the car seem quicker!!

The mystery of the oil leak saga may be over :D It would appear that my TT engine has been modified before I bought it, and has a slightly larger oil cooler fitted and consequently a larger oil filter than the standard Aristo/Supra engine. I had a full service some 500 miles ago (just afterwards the oil drips started) and the oil filter used (and another replacement one I used the other day) were standard Aristo/Supra size. Consequently it appears that the fibre washer was a gnat's whisker too small, and tightening the oil filter probably gave a metal to metal contact. The oil seems to have been spraying from the top of the oil filter seal (or lack of it), traveling up and backwards - confusing everyone. Measuring the metalwork for the oil filter it appears that I have a larger Toyota Landcruiser diesel engine fitment, so I'm able to use a much larger capacity oil filter than the standard Aristo. As the garage thinks this is an "improvement modification", and the filter specs are the same (just more capacity) then I've just popped on the bigger oil filter and recorded it in the service book ready for my next service. Could it be the only Aristo/Landcruiser hybrid in the world !!! :o

I believe if the screen has gone "bright" for 3 seconds before going dead it is usually a sign unfortunately that the internal power supply regulation of the unit has gone, and likely to have subjected the screen to a higher voltage than it should have (normally the 12v is regulated to a smaller voltage internally to power the LCD screen). If it is a fuse blowing the screen will go off quickly or at best fade through dark (not go bright). If the is not a fuse blown in the fuse box then see if there is an in-line fuse fitted in the wiring to the DVD. If you can get the DVD unit out then test for 12v at the back of the unit. If you want to repair or get a recondition unit then I'd recommend having a word with Toyota Lexus Specialist (south of London) who are very helpful. Parts Line (Mon-Sat 10am-6pm) +44 (0)781 6194276 www.toyotalexusspecialists.co.uk

It's booked in to the garage for inspection, as I can't get under the car sensibly to spot the leak (I've no pit or high ramps to get the car perfectly level). I'm convienced it is forward of the rear crank case as the drips fall before this and can't see why it should dribble forward when you think normal driving should be forcing it backwards anyway. I'll post up what the garage suggests.

Silly thing has stopped dripping for the last two nights!! Having said that, it has only been on short runs in between garaging. I'll have to wait until after the weekend to properly warm the engine and see if it starts leaking the oil again. I'll post any information of what I find.

I trust this was on the track !! :winky:

I'm personally not in favour of any "additives", as they tend just to mask or cover up problems, not cure them. Still searching for that little drip!! :duh:

Timing belt was changed a short while ago. Everything looks OK - just can't see where the small oil leak is actually originating from !! I don't like stripping anything down before I know exactly where and what is the problem. I don't like to use oil additives to stop such leaks (a bit like Radweld for radiator leaks), because if a gasket is starting to leak it must have reached the end of its useful life. Anyone tried such additives, and do they work without damaging the engine?

Yes I've just been quoted a price from the garage if it's the back seal - I'm cancelling Christmas!! They can't actually see where it is coming from - so I've just had it degreased from underneath in a hope that I'll then be able to see the oil run from somewhere!! It currently drops a patch of oil about the size of 2 or 3 ten pence pieces overnight, but it can't be that much physically because the dip stick mark hasn't noticably dropped. I'v ehad it checked and it definately is engine oil.

The power steering level seems OK. The oil is dark in colour, so I'm suspecting it is something from the engine itself. Still can't see exactly where it is coming from. It's going in to an independent garage today to see if they can offer any suggestions or spot anything when it is up on full ramps.

Must see if I can spot the point of trouble before taking that one out as it sound somewhat of a job!!

I've an anoying little oil leak from the engine bay that started about 500 miles ago. It drips a few spots overnight (regardless of how hard the engine seems to work). It is toward the back right of the engine, somewhere below the dip sticks. It appears to be engine oil not gearbox oil. The engine oil level is kept at the upper fill mark, and doesn't actually seem to drop in level. It's been in the garage for a full service and they can't spot exactly where it is coming from. They suggested "trying a gasket at a time", which seems a nice little money spinner to me. Does anyone know of any common oil leak points to look at?

If it is when you are at real low speed and on full lock one way have a look in your wheel arches for something catching - I had something coming away from the inner skin on a previous car and on full lock I guess the wheel must have just caught it and it used to beat like a drum!! I'd changed bearings and steering joints before discovering it.

Good use of space to fit the gear - I forgot about the space for the sun-glasses in the roof!! Looking good.

It's always a risk putting real dark tints on the front glass - there is always a risk of the police or the MOT test making you take it off!! The sun doesn't shine much up north, so I'm not bothered!!

Don't foget to keep looking at the road as well as the gizmo's!! I did try an instrument pillar mount on my FTO and found that it either blocked some of your vision, it was too near to focus your eyes quickly from looking at the road ahead, or it seemed to invaid my personal space. Maybe it's just because I wear glasses, but I couldn't live with it and changed it all to a dash-board mount!! Also as a non-smoker the ashtray seems an ideal spot for the Aristo - which is also slightly out of view from those that might otherwise peer in your parked car and gleen you have a power machine worth pinching.

To remove the ashtray, pull down the front flap. Then grip the inside of the ashtray/lighter highish up on the left and right and pull straight forward. The whole lot should clip out of it's spring lugs. You will then be able to undo the plug & socket feed to the lighter - which I've used to power the instuments through an in-line fuse.

I don't think mounting the kit in the glovebox is practical - unless you want to drive with the cover down and you lean across the passenger seat to see the guages!! I've removed the whole ashtray/lighter (just pulls out) and mounting mine in there (I'm just making a bespoke mounting plate to fit). It doesn't effect the air vents or effect the eye-line like some pillar mounts. Being in the middle it's easy to see and easy to route the cables/pipes to the engine bay.

The Blitz controller has a built in Boost display, and I was wanting this viewable - so removing the redundant ash tray looks the favourite location for me.

Hi Paul - the picture link doesn't seem to work - even logged in!! I'm looking as well to put my Blitz Controller in the ash-tray position. :)

Has anyone got any recommendations for setting Over Boost for the Aristo Mk 2 VVTi twin turbo without stressing the standard engine or reducing reliability? 1. For driving all the time with better performance than standard stock. 2. For occassional performance blasts on a one-off basis. 3. The over boost limit when I should set the fuel cut to "pull the plug" before it blows up !! Has anyone any actual test figure of what additional BHP difference these setting typically make or 0-60 trials for the Aristo on standard and over boost settings ? It will be interesting to find out if this is a "value for performance" mod to do.

Yes it's likely to be the water pump bearing, but just check the belt drives. The tensioner may have gone loose and the noise due to slipping. I also once got a small bit of stone jammed in my FTO belt - and that sounded the same. If you are careful not to splash oil all over you could try squerting a spot of WD40 down the water pump shaft into the bearing, which temporarily may stop it or at least prove if it is the bearing that has gone or on it's way out. Avoid getting in on the pulley or belts. Keep an eye out for leaking water from the water pump.

Yes, the only "weakness" I've found with the Aristo is that the brakes don't seem to match the power under the bonnet. Hopefully the new brake up-grade will give some confidence that we can stop !!!

I've got some information from a Lexus dealer workshop manual, which is for the GS300 but appears to be applicable to the Aristo: Brake pad removal and refit: Brake bleeding information - note the sequence of moving around the car: I hope this helps, but I've not yet tried it myself until the new brake discs and pads arrive. You either need long arms and legs, or someone to be in the car as well as someone doing the bleeding work!! :)

Anything but chip fat oil !! If you are draining the old oil out totally first, then there is no fear of mixing, so any quality high performance engine oil should be OK for everyday use in normal temperatures. Obviously if you are planning track days or excessive thrashing a race oil would be better. However, be careful with the race oils as these tend to be good when the engine is hot, but being very "thick" the engine is not very well protected in the UK winter months and cold starting. There are that many oils on the market then it is probably personal choice and price, but I've always preferred Castrol or Mobil brands. Have a look in your local car spares shop as buying mail order is expensive due to high postage costs due to weight and bulk (and inflamable liquids should not be sent other than by authorised carrier companies). If all else fails your local Toyota dealer should stock oil (ask for Supra engine type) - but the last lot I got was in a plain white bottle with just a Toyota label - so I has no idea who's make it actually was!! :duh: