BigRoj

I had all these problems with mine, so in the end I took the whole unit out and replaced it with a JVC DAB single DIN unit and bypassed the amp in the passenger footwell. I don't think there is a quick or permanent fix for these original units, other than replacement. Probably not what you want to hear.

I have a '99 SE auto, and the transmission oil should be changed every 27k miles. I say changed, but in actual fact what you do is just empty the gearbox of its oil, about one and a half litres. You don't drain the torque converter as you used to do on older Lexus' (GS & LS).

That sounds like a relay whose contacts are welded together (amongst other things), could be 2 relays with welded contacts (lights on and dip/main) or permanently energised. Might be worth taking the lighting relays out until you find the problem. Note that there is an ecu controlling the lights, all the light stalk does is send signals to the ecu telling it what lights you want on, the ecu then activates the various relays concerned.

Likewise, I, too, used a similar method to Talisker, utilising a couple a butch pieces of angle, the difference being the angle was bolted together in a shallow Vee with the open end bolted to the pulley. (this was easier as I couldn't cut away a semicircle for the crank nut). This was to do the timing belt on my GS, whose crank nut is torqued to 360Nm (or 'effing tight' as I believe the technical term is). If you have access to an air gun (hammer type, not shooting type) I found this helped. The marijuana will help if you strip the threads!

What? No Team Jebus? Can't be having this Craig!!!

I think you'll find that a competent Aligner will have the relevant settings for an 18in wheel set up Aido. The one I used did.

I had 4 Mercs before going to Lexus, and after a couple of excursions back to see what the rest of the car makers were up to, went back to an old Lexus as nothing can touch them. The best Merc is/was the 190, made when Mercedes was German before they got in with the big boys in America. After that it was all downhill!!!! It sounds as if Lexus' complaints department is similar to the Carlsberg one depicted in the TV advert, they are so good, people don't complain!!!!!

I suspect thats the key to longevity of wide rim rear wheels on GSs', getting the geometry sorted by a competent wheel geometry sorter-outerer. I bought a new set of Fuel-5s for my mk1 as I had a buckle on the original spare TTE 9 spoke, so decided to go the whole hog and get new wheels. I had 10in rears, 8.5in front, and the rears are in far better condition than the fronts. When the new wheels were fitted I had them do the 4-wheel alignment, good job as it turned out as it was out. Since its been done, its like driving a different car, especially at high speed. Fantastic.

Oh! The info I got was from a diagnosis chart from the mk1 GS w/shop manual. Confusing!!!

Just checked the manual and according to that if it reads 0v its knackered, at 5v its lean, so from that you can deduce they are wideband, ie0-5v. Probably.

Is the level in your expansion tank altering at all? Have you topped it up? When the coolant is changed, and the system is refilled, it is usual to run the engine with the rad cap off until the thermostat opens and sends coolant throughout the engine and rad, this is noticeable by a drop in the level in the rad. The heating needs to be at max warm as well so the coolant is at full flow through the heater matrix. Assuming the dealer has done all this there should be no air in the system at all unless the expansion tank is empty or the overflow pipe from the top of the rad cap to the expansion tank is blocked, thus stopping the transfer of coolant both ways resulting in trapped air in the system. It could be a shagged water pump as well!

Not really. That thing with the cable coming out of it is the cruise control actuator unit. Top cable is the actuated one, bottom cable is the one from the throttle pedal. The alarm siren unit may be located under the cover where the w/screen wiper motor is, behind the firewall at the back of the cruise control actuator. Maybe.

£35 :o I ordered one for a Yaris today £114 plus Mr. Browns 17 1/2% From a main dealer by any chance? Pay £35 for a universal sensor from a factor, you may have to re-plug the wires, but its a small chore for a big saving on what is essentially the same thing cheaper.

Get Universals at £35 each, and an adaptor plate if yours is u/s. These will be a straight fit on the rear exhaust manifold, but an adaptor may be required on the front exhaust manifold if the old sensor doesn't come off the flange plate cleanly.

I can imagine a few steering and camber problems if that were the case, plus a 100ft turning radius as well ;) A good, well looked after set with no scuffings, kerb marks and corrosion looks the dogs doodahs, but they are about as common as an honest politician. Even ropey ones are fetching silly money on ebay. A pristine set can command £2k. Worrying!