ontheroad1

interesting post but its down to how hard you accelerate to get to the optimum speed and knowing when to ease off and build the speed up slower ( the more you accelerate the more fuel it will drink ) ECT PWR on and light on the throttle sounds like the best way

I hope its not too expensive because its a big and long job

change times are 60k upto 1993 and 63k after 1994

im not knocking all the white van people but they do seem to have a reputation same as do taxis/buses/lorries but I can understand it in most cases because its their job so not relaxing and with the amount of traffic on the roads leads to road rage which means bad driving habits and more accidents

guilt complex ?? so you have done it at least once

its called V8 mate + its a Toyota ++ its a Lexus

typical van man and lucky you were there otherwise he would have done a runner and they are good at that so get what you can out of it

obviously your code has been deactivated as it says in the handbook which should be done when selling the car ( page 117 ) in the owners manual

just so others will know, the safety/security on these radios require and activation code which is set by the dealer on request of the new car owner and that code is used to deactivate it when work is required ( these are not permanently set codes like on some cars where you contact some one with the serial number and they used a code breaker to unlock it so dont waste your money on that idea and the dealers dont keep records of the code either because it can be changed by the owner at will and thats why the dealer uses the last 3 digits of the VIN number

it should be in with your service history ( 3 digits ) sometimes the last 3 numbers of the VIN are used but if you have a problem and dont/cant get the code you can take the radio to a place that will read the CMOS to get the code for you, dont bother with the dealers on this one they will send it away and charge you a small fortune I used J.W.OZELTON & SON and dont think you will have him down there it cost me £25 and I had to take the radio out for him

hopefully you will have the radio code? if you dont it will go into safe mode and that will cost you,

looked after it probably will ;)

What's the "correct" tyre pressure? How long is a piece of string? Seriously though, you'll be more likely to get a sensible answer to the length of a piece of string than you will to the question of tyres pressures. Lets just say a good starting point is the pressure indicated in the owner's manual, or the sticker inside the driver's side door pillar.I say 'starting point' because on every car I've owned, I've ended up deviating from those figures for one reason or another. On my Subaru Impreza, as outlined above, I got much better gas mileage and no difference in tyre wear by increasing my pressures to 40psi. On my Honda Element, I cured the vague handling and outer-tyre-edge wear by increasing the pressures from the manufacturer-recommended 32/34psi front and rear respectively, to 37psi all round. On my Audi Coupe I cured some squirrelly braking problems by increasing the pressure at the front from 32psi to 36psi. On my really old VW Golf, I cured bad fuel economy and vague steering by increasing the pressures all-round to 33psi. So what can you, dear reader, learn from my anecdotes? Not much really. It's pub-science. Ask ten Subaru Impreza owners what they run their tyres at and you'll get ten different answers. It depends on how they drive, what size wheels they have, what type of tyres they have, the required comfort vs. handling levels and so on and so forth. That's why I said the sticker in the door pillar is a good starting point. It's really up to you to search the internet and ask around for information specific to your car. The Max. Pressure -10% theory. Every tyre has a maximum inflation pressure stamped on the side somewhere. This is the maximum pressure the tyre can safely achieve under load. It is not the pressure you should inflate them to. Having said this, I've given up using the door pillar sticker as my starting point and instead use the max.pressure-10% theory. According to the wags on many internet forums you can get the best performance by inflating them to 10% less than their recommended maximum pressure (the tyres, not the wags - they already haves inflated egos). It's a vague rule of thumb, and given that every car is different in weight and handling, it's a bit of a sledgehammer approach. But from my experience it does seem to provide a better starting point for adjusting tyre pressures. So to go back to my Subaru Impreza example, the maximum pressure on my Yokohama tyres is 44psi. 10% of that is 4.4, so 44-4.4=39.6psi which is about where I ended up. On my Element, the maximum pressure is 40psi so the 10% rule started me out at 36psi. I added one more to see what happened and it got better. Going up to 38psi and it definitely went off the boil, so for my vehicle and my driving style, 37psi on the Element was the sweet spot.

Author(s): Hiroji Taniguchi - Toyota Motor Corp. Yasushi Ando - Toyota Motor Corp. Abstract: A new automatic transmission, engineered from concept for "intelligent" and "anti-aging" (long life), has been designed and developed for Toyota's luxury passenger car, Lexus LS400. This system, which has resulted in silky-smooth shift quality without changes in the long term, is composed of a transmission computer that interacts with engine computer, a number of sensors, an electronically controlled hydraulic unit with linear solenoid valves and assorted devices. As new control logic being developed with the aid of computer simulation to achieve distinction, the hydraulic and engine controls are combined in this system. There is a "feedback control", where the clutch pressure is controlled according to the rate of acceleration and compensated for dispersion to applied pressure, engine torque and/or the coefficient of dynamic friction of clutches, and at the same time engine torque is reduced by retarding ignition timing, a little more to it than just spinning the wheels ( personally I never did like traction control ) it takes the fun out of the drive as does ABS but im stuck with that, with all that in mind I would say much improved power transfer to the rear wheels,

intelligent transmission makes traction control dead ( UK only ) from mid 1991

I jacked mine up and painted everything under there ( and it needed it )

what have you done to the underside? the rear end is prone like any other car for rust

I would say you diagnosed your own problem, fuel line off or someone has been tampering to steal fuel

LS is top of the range and mine is still up for sale at 2K and very cheap for a mint motor with full lex service history

rust being the problem with Mercedes and wiring problems due to cheap wire and too thin/ BMW = rot box as well as merc, jag lovely engine like the sKoda but the bodywork rusts like hell (RR and Bentley are disgusting for rust )

the fault codes might have helped me diagnose the problem ( if there was one ) but seeing as it hasn't come back up I would say it was a stored soft code so intermittent and not a problem

LS is totally different from the IS, audio and aircon share the same cubical they look like a single unit

we all know this is crap because we have all fitted head units and the only thing you need to do is buy a connector from halfords to match the head unit your replacing ( speakers on one plug-power supply on another ) the standard as you probably know but the only problem I can for see is a fascia adapter to separate the head unit from the AC

simple ?? you cant mix it

if the writing on the belt is readable its newish but it should be on the service history if done through the warranty