shanra

I replaced my handbrake shoes on my LS400 the mileage was 196,000, but the reason was it was part of the mechanism that had seized also the retaining pins had almost rusted through. The previous owner told me he never used the handbrake so as to save it. I never understood how that would save it and because it's a safety feature it has to pass an MOT so surely it's better to use it and keep all parts moving! I bought pattern parts and they did the job as well as they should, it's worth getting the whole kit not just the shoes.

I fitted genuine Lexus discs and pads all round and the car pulls up on a sixpence I told the parts department I could get Brembo's for the price they quoted and got a 20% discount for my trouble. I had the calipers refurbished at the same time and I've never had brakes like it before.

I'd make sure that it is the steering rack and not the steering pump which will leak onto the rack. I know it was a problem on the Soarer/SC400 and the LS400 shares the same engine etc. It requires the pump reconditioning or as has been done with mine a power steering stop leak additive used. If the car is being kept for a while I'd go with the reconditioning, a choice I didn't have as the previous owner used the stop leak.

Got a working one for £32.50 delivered just as well I got it cheap as when I was fitting it I noticed some rust just above the mudguard and pushed at it with a screwdriver and I now have a hole which will get bigger if pushed again. Needs welding it will not be a proper job otherwise especially as it's a keeper. I know when I got it there was a lot of damp mud that hadn't been cleared out of the mudguard lips in a long time and that can't have helped. Better to find it sooner rathér than later.

I did this in the summer (the best time I think) to the whole of the underside of the car the worst rust was around the rear subframe. This took me days to do properly cleaning it first thoroughly then taking all loose or even mildly flaky rust back as far as possible with chisels, emery cloth, wire brushes, shave hooks and just about anything else that worked then allowing to dry. When dry I dusted everything down and then painted with Rustbuster fe-123 allowed that to dry properly and then painted with Epoxy Mastic 121 thinned slightly these are both great products especially the Epoxy Mastic 121 which I cannot recommend enough. The secret is in the preparation if you don't clear back to a solid surface you may well just be sealing in damp and loose rust and you're in for a lot of trouble down the line. The Rustbuster website has a lot of good information on it that's well worth reading. I had the car up on four axle stands when I did this and sent my wheels off for refurbishment and all my brake calipers aswell. I did an oil and filter change, differential oil change, replaced anti rollbar bushes, replaced a/c condensor and recharged a/c. Checked resistance on ht leads and looked at plugs. When I first got it I spent two days cleaning it inside and out. It runs pretty well now just an autobox flush and filter change to go! Got to sell my 20 yo Mercedes c220 now as it may look better than the Lexus but it's an inferior car.

Thanks Mike

Previous owner fitted an aftermarket unit which failed Steve so I think I'll go down the breaker route, thanks for your advice.

I am looking to replace the aerial and motor on my Lexus ls 400 '97 and wondered if anyone had any recommendations. The old one is not working and cannot be fixed. I was looking at one of these: Calearo Lexus LS 90-00 AM\FM.

Thanks for all the help. I took it for a run and it dripped from both pipes afterwards. I was looking at the correct drains and there are two one on the nearside and the other offside in the same place near the sills, two grommet like drains as was mentioned but in full view. I'll take a picture and post it as it may help others.

Can't see it and I'm right underneath it, is just the one pipe? I can see what looks like a drain pipe but there is one the other side that matches it.

Can anyone tell me the location of this drain pipe? I have tried running A/C and loooking undeneath for dripping water but no luck. Thanks.

Normal Graham.

I have these on my Mercedes C124 Coupe they are very good and are well rated by Which magazine.

I have it now thanks for all your help I was feeling around for a small cog with small gaps between the teeth but they are quite large, simple when you realise where and what it is!

I can feel the spring but not the cog is it above the spring?

I'm going to take a closer look at where the adjuster should be as there surely must be one I'll have to get a bright pencil torch on it as I could only see the bottom spring before.

I'm replacing all rotors and having calipers refurbished but I have come up against a real problem with the parking brake I cannot remove the rear rotors, the shoes on the parking brake are sticking slightly when turning the rotor and when trying to remove the rotor it will only come off so far and it must be the shoes preventing it. I'm thinking the adjustment must be automatic as I cannot find an adjuster to ease them off, the cables under the car are pretty slack so don't think they are a problem. I have put the rotor in the six o'clock position with the access hole lined up but cannot see a cog, on one rotor I can see a spring and washer is loose in there and was able to pull out the pin which the spring held on from the rear near the hub. Just cannot think how to loosen off the shoes as brute force will only make the situation worse. Thanks.

Couldn't find an American Lexus dealer who can ship some never even bothered contacting me with an answer. Used Amayama and they were even cheaper than the USA dealers.

Brian I know you replaced yours, I've edited my reply it wasn't very clear. I believe you're right about the safety over-ride as my A/C repairman said it would cut in if the system got really low on gas.

Exactly the same Brian happened to mine. Chasdad it really is worth finding out whether the compressor is just leaking or is it still turning, is the clutch working, has it broken up inside? as then you'll have shards of metal running around your system, any decent A/C professional should be able to give you a proper idea of what is occuring. Have a look at this site http://www.ac4cars.co.uk/ it will give you an insight and you can partly diagnose what's happening with your compressor yourself. I put this site link up here for purely educational purposes and if I am breaking any rules please edit it. The website is not the easiest to navigate so here's a better link http://www.airconditioningforcars.co.uk/ACpage01.htm

I don't think it's really a do it yourself job. I had my condenser replaced the other day on my LS 400 and it cost £120 with a receiver/dryer (which must be replaced) bolts broke etc so better to have a professional do it. I bought my Denso condenser (OE) on Rockauto £170 with taxes paid and charge from my Visa card. It was not a difficult job on the LS 400 as it is in front of the radiator. If your compressor is gone then you'll have to regas and replace receiver/dryer again which will be around another £70 so worth pricing that into the equation.

Changed the Differential oil last night, the worst bit was getting the plugs undone I used plenty of WD40 and a 10mm Differential socket I had to put a torque wrench on one to get enough leverage. I must say it does seem very smooth today it could be my imigination of course! I do think changing the transmission filter when you flush or pump out the fluid has to be a sensible thing especially on higher mileage vehicles. Personally I'd prefer to do a flush as you can see when the fluid becomes clear. At Smiffies Soarer Sanctuary where they do these transmissions all the time and have probably done more than anyone else in GB they flush, then drain and drop the pan and replace the filter then clean all surfaces and seal with Loctite 5669 sealant the stuff Toyota use, fill again run around the block then test the fluid level with the car in gear. I've seen a really dirty transmission have 23 litres of fluid pumped through before the fluid was clean enough.

No oil or fluid can keep on doing it's job after years and years, my Diff' is getting Redline Synthetic when it stops raining! I think a lot of the problem with these dealerships is they don't really have mechanics anymore they are fitters nowadays.

I'll soon be doing a gearbox flush and filter (oil strainer) change, the fluid is reddish brown and after 196,000 miles it deserves it. I cannot understand why anyone would not change the fluid and filter after a lot of miles, no filter was built to last 19 odd years, gearboxes wear and the filter does what it says on the box, namely filter! I owned a Toyota Soarer with the same engine and gearbox a good few moons ago and that certainly benefitted from a filter and fluid change. If you're doing it yourself I just think you need to be meticulously clean as those boxes don't like any any little extra bits in them! Oh and from what I've gleaned over the years use the right sealant on the pan which is Loctite 5699 Premium Silicone Grey Gasket Maker/Sealant.

Well in my Service Record booklet it says change Differential oil every 27,000 miles and Transmission oil replace every 36,000 miles that would I guess be a drain and refill.