shanra

Drop links replaced all round and they were rusted solid so I got a mechanic to do them! Some play in the Upper Control Arms (was some clunking at times) so ordered a pair from Amayama which will be an all in cost of £450 or so, when I actually get them could be another thing altogether! 213,500 on the clock so expect to pay out a little now and then!

He does have a fair bit of ego going on. But worth reading through for a different slant on things.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

I got one from Rockauto USA it was dirt cheap. I believe it is a ballbearing as you say. Give it a real good blast with your cleaner and as long as its working that really should do it! I see you have a 430 sorry Michael my instructions for the positioning of the valve may be a little off but it should be reasonably similar.

Very easy to clean and it's on the passenger side of the engine to the rear of the oil cap just above the '32', there is a rubber pipe connected to it you need to release the clip on it and pull off the pipe, you will see the PCV valve and it needs to be pulled out and sprayed through with cleaner. Check it's operation as previously mentioned in a post. Then replace in reverse. I ordered a new one and would you believe it was faulty!

Ctek MXS5.0 here also and always does the job!

Thanks for all the help and kind offers. I got the Climate Control unit off and took it apart, sprayed some Deoxit in there and plugged it back in and it works perfectly!

This was working intermittently but I had to repeatedly push the button until it lit up, it has now stopped working. I realise I will have to remove stereo and probably remove the a/c panel with the switches on from the stereo block. But how accesible is the switch when this has been done and can it be replaced? I am hoping to get at the innards and try spraying some Deoxit 5 on it and see if that fixes it. Thanks in advance.

I have a modern Battery charger with a reconditioning mode which has revived a very flat battery time and time again. Really worth investing in one of these as battery chargers have moved on a lot.

I replaced mine a couple of years ago with original parts and they work superbly.

I had the condenser replaced a couple of years ago and I had to replace one of the pipe/unions (shown in photos) as the A/C person damaged it when taking it apart. If you are going to get it done Rockauto is the place to buy your Denso condenser and I would spray the union/joint with a good penetrating spray for a few days before the A/C people work on it, because as was mentioned before it will very likely be fused together.

Bought Philips 12342RVS2 Racingvision + 150% Headlamp Bulb H4 and they are a definite step up from the original bulbs. They are not going to last as long but for the extra vision they are worth it. Cost around the £20 mark. Bought these two years ago and still going strong.

Using the AC button to direct the air to the screen the moisture on the glass will be evaporated very rapidly, long before a screen-heater has had a chance to warm up and will continue this advantage around the side glasses and on to the rear screen. For best effect use the AC button, perhaps in conjunction with the heater in winter and on the fresh air setting (not recirculation). AC is usually extremely good at de-misting and this safety aspect of good all round visibility, even when picking up a crowd of wet noisy kids in winter, is one of AC's strong points. It has to be admitted that very occasionally the climate can be so very damp on odd days that even with the AC working effectively the demisting function can work only slowly but this is very much in the minority - for most days the AC will clear the screen almost like magic. Taken from this website which has lots of information about A/C http://www.airconditioningforcars.co.uk/ACpage01.htm

Just go to a A/C specialist and they will do the whole thing for you and check for leaks etc. They will suck out all the old stuff and refill with the right amount of gas and oil. Using the A/C to demist is very effective because it sucks the moisture out of the air.

The part should be about £32 delivered. Click on Lexus on the home page then LS 400 then your variant and then under electrics scroll down to scheme 2 and click on Heater and Air Conditioning- cooler piping and you'll see a diagram blow it up and you can choose the part you need. If you're not sure which model choose Ls 400 then UCF20R and then you have the option of putting in your frame number which will certainly put you on the right page.

Hi Messi, did your A/C specialist replace the Receiver/dryer or undo the bolts for any reason when he regassed? I had the bottom joint/pipe (in your first picture) leak after an A/c man regassed and replaced the Receiver/dryer and the only fix was replacing the pipe. It looks to be your top joint leaking onto the bottom one but make sure it's just the top one leaking. Have a look on Amayama for the top pipe part, it maybe better to get the whole thing rather than risk another leak (if just replacing o rings) and having to pay for another regas.

I had the same issue and sprayed it with Deoxit D5 and it is working again.

If you use an air con specialist if there is a leak then they can do something about it, whereas Kwifit etc just know how to operate the machine. Lots of mobile ones about.

Best way to remove those scuff marks is with a magic sponge, but go carefully as they can take off more than you want.

The seal is holding on my transmission, as I said before it is in the preparation of the two surfaces and then torquing the bolts correctly and tightening in the right sequence. I wouldn't bother taking off the pan though unless you have some problems with your transmission.

I took it apart tonight and it was the alarm klaxon that was making the noise. I fiddled with the connection and sprayed Deoxit D5 on the connectors and it has stopped I hope!

It does it when sat still without a key in the ignition and when running.

Thanks Simon but it is definitely under the front wing. I will take the wheel off and splash guards and have a look tomorrow evening. I have to drive to London the next day so the sooner I can sort it out the better.

I have an intermittent noise coming from under the drivers side front wing it sounds like an arc welder, it's electrical because it stops when the battery is disconnected. What's under there that could cause this? I have the battery disconnected as a safety precaution. I had my A/C guy fixing a leak and recharging when it first began but I think that may be a coincidence. Thanks in advance.

Hi Hugh thanks for that but I have done it, it took me ages to find all the relative information and I'll do a write up when I have some time. I had looked at part of the LS 400 repair manual and it seemed to give me two different guides as to the width of the sealant bead which completely threw me, I ended up going with 2-3 mm as it made most sense.