sprinter2012

Sorry to hijack this a bit, but its all on the same subject... On the specs for the springs where it says -30mm etc. is that 30mm lower than the standard version? ie. do I have to take off 15mm because I have the sport, making it a -15mm spring?

My TTE bumper is on the way, and I've decided I'm not going to bother re-fitting the headlight washers as I never use them anyway, and I want a nice clean look aswell. So I'm assuming the first step is to plug the pipe that fed them so all my washer fluid doesn't drain out. But is there a fuse/relay I should remove if I do this? Because I don't want to go blowing up all my pipework if I accidentally press the headlight washer button with the pipe plugged...

that pretty much explains all i needed to know. :) so the washers can only be fitted/removed/adjusted with the bumper off. i dont suppose you happen to know how the washers are mounted to the back of the bumper? clips? screws?

did you get anywhere with this? as I'll be attempting to fit my TTE bumper in the next few weeks, and I'm still undecided as to whether or not I bother re-fitting the headlight washers.

i was going to do that originally, but then i realised that sealing the sub against the back of the seats would be quite difficult. and that your boot is WAY over the recommended air volume for any sub, so the acoustics are all wrong (you'd just end up with very rumbly low bass with no clarity or punch). i guess you could use a 'free air' sub though. then neither of those things would matter.

when you say jigsaw, do you mean those beastly handheld tools which are well known for not being able to cut a straight line? at minimum it would have to be done on a bench mounted circular saw with some sort of guide. as it has to be airtight..

again, a good product but doesnt have the sub mounted on the sloped surface. and it wont be particularly stealthy either. as far as 'hard work', im an engineer so i wouldnt blink an eye at spending half an hour assembling the box to save myself £70. plus its all about the sense of satisfaction ill get when i stand back and look at it fitted, knowing its a perfect fit and that no one else has one. :)

Basically there are two key points in time for car tax. 1st March 2001 and 23rd March 2006. If you car was first registered before 1st March 2001 then tax is calculated by engine size, anything UNDER 1549cc pays £125 for 12 months, anything OVER 1549cc pays £205. This is where it gets confusing, because if your car was registered after 1st March 2001, then going by g/km. The IS200 should be in band L. BUT tax band K covers "cars that have a CO2 figure over 225g/km but were registered before 23 March 2006" which means you only pay the £245 band K rate, and not the huge jump to the £425 band L rate. So as far as the two cars you've mentioned, neither of them fall into the super duper £400+ tax bracket. But they are however different sides of the cheapest or cheap barrier. So.... X reg (aug-feb 2000) = £205 12 months Y reg (mar-aug 2001) = £245 12 months All the info I just mentioned is on the Direct.gov.uk/motoring site, but I just picked out all the bits relevant to your question. :)

Aah yes I found a link to them through a previous post, possibly even by you! Only trouble was I frequently have starting blocks for my athletics in the boot, and I know I'd end up knocking them into the sub there. Otherwise a very good product. What sub have you got out of curiousity? Did you get one that matched the internal volume requirments of that enclosure?

Cheers Stav :) I've been quoted about £90 to get the parts cut out, although subsequent orders would be considerably cheaper because most of that price would be to cover the machine set ups. I'd assemble it myself, and theres a company next to where I work that does upholstery who I'd get to carpet it (not sure on the cost of that though). Plus maybe 5-10 quid for the box mounted wiring terminals. So looking at maybe £130 tops for the enclosure ready to put a sub in. That soundstream enclosure does look pretty good, if only it had a central mounting hole. And I'm struggling to find UK distributors for either of those products? I'll probably stick with the Kenwood sub though just purely on the price, I can get one for £89 which I thought was pretty good considering the specs.

The internal walls (highlighted in red in the picture below), can be fixed anywhere along the width of the box to adjust the internal volume depending on what speaker goes in there. Although I have designed this particular one to be tuned for a Kenwood KFC-WPS1200F 12" shallow sub. Alternatively you could mount 2 smaller subs one above the other, or a deeper sub if you wanted, but it would have to be fitted further down the main face to get the depth from the back wall. Either that or just make the whole box deeper. Although the depth I have designed it for was chosen specifically to match up with the metal rail that runs along the top edge of the boot (about 75mm from the top back edge) to help with the 'false wall' effect. I'm currently waiting on a few quotes to get the parts CNC'd from 18mm MDF. So if you guys have any input, or if you know anyone that may be interested in getting one. Info on what subs could be fitted etc. Leave me a comment. :) p.s. the chunk missing from the front corner of the box is to allow for the stupid lump in the left corner of the boot, no idea what it is.

I don't think warm water on a frozen screen is a particularly good idea...... Thats just asking for trouble. I had a stone chip in the windscreen of my old car last winter, turned on the fans to de-ice one morning...CRACK. It spead from a small chip to a crack nearly the full width of the windscreen! :(

as far as physically fitting it, i would have thought so yes. obviosuly you'd just have some extra wires dangling out the back for the shift buttons i guess.

on the subject of bassjunkies/car audio warehouse (which i believe if the same company)...be a bit warry as ive had a couple of orders which they said didnt go through properly and then they refused to give refunds and didnt respond to emals. credit card company is currently investigating for me...

When you say 'remote' lead. Do you mean the ACC circuit on the ignition so stuff only comes on when the key is turned? If so, its the grey wire on the big white plug that goes into the back of the radio. You can always double check that by poking a multimeter in the plug just incase colour codes are different on certain years. Hope that helps. And sorry if this has already been sorted!

Did you try levering it out from both sides? As it has bigger tabs on one side than the other. One set hook in and are bigger, the other side just has smaller tabs to hold it in.

I'd say pretty much the same as D6NGR, I got my alloys done on an exchange program from Pristine Alloys (the company that got contracted by Lexus when the warranty claims came flooding in). Got them sent direct to Wheels in Motion who did the complete swap for me. :) The only thing I would say about the tints though is you may find you get charged above the standard price because the IS200 is a saloon its quite difficult to get at the back window, especially if you have the factory 6x9s!

Just out of curiosity, what strut brace have you got? Pictures of it fitted? Thanks :)

Basic guide of how to change the headunit HERE And welcome to the LOC :)

I'd try eBay or breakers yards as they are ridiculously expensive from Lexus. First port of call should be S.P.& C. Morgan Auto Salvage. Who I bought my IS200 sat nav from last week. I know when I bought it they also had the boot mounted DVD thing for it aswell. Not sure if it had the disc in it though. Ring them on 01287 633573 and ask for Craig, just ask if the Lexus IS200 sat nav system has the disc in it. :) (if they still have it) Hope this helps