RX-Men-8

Search and you will find... It's on here :) click me! Must admit, searching on here with keywords like gear ratio diferential final drive etc. leads to nothing but a million posts. I knew to find it because of the one who posted it ;) Cheers, RX-Men-8

not because of power output, but because it has a bypass valve instead. videos... please :) I have to see what I missed. RX-Men-8

Of course it has a differential, a standard one. Just not Torsen Limited Slip. ;)

You need to move the contact ends of those 7 signal wires out of the existing ECU loom connectors, into the connector of the Sub-ECU loom. Then 7 return wires from the sub-ECU loom need to be clicked back into the standard connectors. Very precise job for nimble fingers. You need to make a pointed tool, e.g. out of a watchmaker's screwdriver, to unhook the contacts from the connector. You should have had a printed out manual with it. PM me if you need it. RX-Men-8

Maybe you can modify (old) HB4/9006 bulbs? Cut the bulb off and solder the end to the cable to the ballast? RX-Men-8

Looks good to me too, and I'm sure it was solid soldering work by The Don ;) (I'm an EE too and really thourough with that too). I'd like to point out that the car was running well under boost before, and still does between "limp home mode" fits. This surely must mean the ECU extension is wired up correctly, and that it works most of the time (still). Without the ECU extension the CEL would flash and it would go in limp mode every time under boost conditions. In my case, TTE were very quick to suggest the ECU extension was faulty - but then it had completely died eventually (engine stopping right after starting, running only after removing ECU extension). Cheers, RX-Men-8

Hi Owen, I've added some arrows in the pic from my own thread. Click on the pic to see it large. It shows the situation after cutting out the ECU extension. The Black ECU Extension with the black, red, green and yellow wire can be seen at the left bottom side. Only the green/red wire should be cut at the install. The red wire connected (spliced onto) to where (+) is marked (onto red/black wire). The black to where (GND) is (onto white/black wire). The green and yellow wire connect to the ends of the green/red wire that was cut; the green wire to the connector side (left side) and the yellow to the loom side (right side) Cheers, RX-Men-8

Sort of. You can unhook the cable runnning from the throttle to the bypass valve on the S/c essentially preventing it from making boost. It will run at slightly less power than normal because the s/c will be idling like an engine accessory such as the a/c pump. Of course you can take off the belt to prevent that. But you'll still have a longer air intake path than standard, all the way through the intercooler, sapping some power. Cheers, RX-Men-8

Owen, These symptoms are exactly the same as I have experienced. See thread here. http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/ind...id=269509&st=64 Better keep your wire clippers and a piece of wire with clamps handy if you dont want to be stuck somewhere with the engine dying again and again after starting. (Cut out black ECU extension, and reconnect the 2 loose ends, unhook the s/c bypass cable). Hope you get it sorted, RX-Men-8

Excellent mate! Good to see you've had the same expert helping out as on mine at JAE - respect to him especially for burning the midnight oil Congrats with the trophy! That's unbelievable such quick ROE. Cheers, RX-Men-8

We have a DVD authoring studio, and write very many DVD-R's. We found that although Samsung, Lite-On, Sony, Aopen, Plextor etc. work fine, but only the Pioneer A05/A07/A09 give consistent compatibility with all our client's DVD-Video players. And we prefer the Maxell 8-Speed DVD-(minus)-R discs for them. The A09 will do dual layer too, but not many DVD-Video players react well at the layer break, only recent Sony players don't seem to problems with these DVD-R9's. Hope that helps, RX-Men-8

I guess that would be the same spot where the BOV would be on the Turboed IS's. I also guess you need to run the S/C with the bypass valve closed all the time, and maybe then there will be pressure to blow off ;) Don't know what issues you'd encounter. Gruss, RX-Men-8

Email transmission (from:/to: & date header) is usually logged for some time, the content of the e-mails is generally not stored (may not even be allowed, not sure about UK privacy laws). You'll have to ask their system admin though, as they know or have set up the e-mail systems. I think you've done well, success with the complaint. Cheers, RX-Men-8

Red...... Spanner :0

Thanks Zee, but I'd prefer the whole thing as it bolts right on the wheelwell, only need to poke al little hole at the back for the MBC. Great! Will you be butchering another IS :D Plz let me know if/when it comes available. RX-Men-8

Hi, I'm looking for a RHD model fusebox that sits in front of the battery, just the outside shell, internals not needed. (Sorry Adie for using your car as the example) Having a LHD model IS200 that has the battery and fusebox on the other side, this gives me the chance to neatly (covertly :winky: ) stow some electronic parts in front of the master brake cylinder. Thanks, RX-Men-8

That may explain why the 16, 17 and 18" five-spoke rims for Mazda (like on the 6 and RX-8) are corroding just as badly as the Lexus ones (according to my neighbour who owns a "6").

Not really, its continuing to use the gas pedal with your toes while braking with your heel, for rallye style cornering. It enables better synchronised downshifting while braking (double clutching or not), and it makes for a quicker corner exit, even more so as the turbos are then spooled up already. RX-Men-8 ← Errrml, no! The term is "double de-clutching" NOT "double-clutching" and it's not just for rallye style cornering it's used on the race track too. I know I've used it. It's called heel and toe but these days it's really the left part of your foot on the brake and the right part blipping the throttle. There is NO POINT in using it on a car with synchromesh. The point is to get into a low gear and use engine braking on the entry to a corner not on the exit, ready for pulling away. ← Not disagreeing with you mate ;) I was maybe a bit too losse with the terms :) It's just that you can double de-clutch (sorry) without heel-and-toe, like in the uphill downshift example above (then you're not braking) and you can do heel-and-toe maneuvres without needing to double de-clutch. Indeed, synchromeshes are there so you don't need to tread the clutch twice. Cheers, RX-Men-8

This weekend I fitted Daza's former rear discs, since he's got nice "sawblades" now as you may have seen on this forum :) They were still very new looking and otherwise he'd have binned them. Thanks Daza! I used some black hammerite to make everything loking like new and fitted new mintex pads. Very chuffed :) Alas, the scraping noise was back now, but on the other side. Same thing again (see pic). Hammering back the rim from the backplate wasn't really working, so I took a disc grinder and ground 1mm off the backing plate rim. Now everyting's quiet. Maybe the wheel bearings are run in (worn) so far now that the disc is starting to make contact with the backing plate? I've had to "modify" both sides now, so maybe it's a tip for others with a high mileage IS that has the same symptoms. Cheers, RX-Men-8

Not really, its continuing to use the gas pedal with your toes while braking with your heel, for rallye style cornering. It enables better synchronised downshifting while braking (double clutching or not), and it makes for a quicker corner exit, even more so as the turbos are then spooled up already. RX-Men-8

Here they are on an IS: Not exactly the same, more curved and thinner spokes. Not really my taste, a bigger version of the OEM wheels may be nicer. Cheers, RX-Men-8

Jack and Jil went.... where? :D

From the EuroLOC forum: It's from Auto Bild, the german version of Autoexpress Guess it's a guessjob by their photoshop guy. Some 7-series profile in it, some IS. RX-Men-8

Nice find. Is your supercharger noisy after the many miles it has run? BTW the snout is the front "schnauze" ;) i.e. where the front axle bearing is housed. Cheers, RX-Men-8

See here mate, 4th post. Cheers, RX-Men-8