RX-Men-8

Mail systems get bombarded with brute force using a dictionary of names/words, also called the rumpelstiltskin method. All that isn't rejected as "address unknown" is stored in the spammers e-mail list. This may be why your never published gmail address is getting spammed. Spam engines use combinations of misspeled words like "vlagra" and a few lines from a book - making every spam mail unique. Together with a very basic makeup they are almost impossible to block, if you try you will also block a lot of "ham". Not receiving legitimate mails is even worse, so I guess we'll have to live with these kinds of spam for now.

Instead, go for 19x8,5 ET40 Front and 19x9,5 ET50 Rear. More chance of a fit with these tyres.

The RX300/RX350/RX400h ;) Cheers, RX-Men-8

There are loads of lexus out there that are modded ......... and they have never even heard of this place. It's not ex-non-LOC. It used to be FrankOG's from the EuroLOC ;) (EDIT, Sorry, too late already been said) But yes, there are even people who e.g. put in 1G-GTE engine in an IS200 and not on the Forums. Cheers Cruisinkev, see ya on EuroLOC ;) RX-Men-8

On my IS the clutch always smelled pretty soon e.g. when maneuvering on a sloped driveway. Doesn't mean it's knackered, after over 200000km it still isn't worn out. I'm just careful to stop as soon as possible when I smell anything, don't want to burn it up.

Happy anniversary, mate! ^she is. (very nice ;) )

Yes, I've done that. But you need to fit the left and right axle stubs from the IS diff to the Altezza diff, as the driveshaft bolt patterns (4 vs 6 bolts) are different. And for that you need to fit new bearing seals (penny parts, but special tools needed).

On the German language Euro LOC Forum they keep telling the Anti Roll Bars are stiffer on the Sport model - Somewhere between non-Sport and TTE ARBs. Same story with the springs. Then there's the different shock absorber part numbers - didn't know that they're just shorter (as mentioned above) I always thought they were a tad harder too. But specs on the IS200 Sport model have varied from country to country.

I think he wants to park it somewhere, and prevent it from being started without doing permanent damage. Some kind of DIY immobilizer - like in the old days you could pop off the distributor cap and take the rotor arm with you. Maybe he can pull out a fuse (fuel pump, starter)?

The Monster The Beast The Don (nice reflection ;) ) Suprazzzz The Drift The Tyres The LOC Supras are .... and Hilux are .... :D I had a great time seeing you all again! Special thanks to Mat for organizing everytihing and working his butt off getting everything set up and packing it in again. And many thinks to yemgi for providing shelter for a dutch thunderstorm victim ;) Cheers, RX-Men-8

Update: I have the schematics and line drawings of the 1999 IS200, and for RHD models this light failure sensor is not mounted behind the panel on the photo from my LHD model, but more accessible on the front side. As far as I can tell from the line drawings, anyway. Cheers, RX-Men-8

No. The hand brake warning works like before. It is triggered by a switch in the hand brake handle and not by the light failure sensor. We were finding without the load resistors that the bulb out light came on and the handbrake warning light came on. So just to confirm, even though the bulb out light has now gone, the handbrake warning light still appears. Noooooooo. With this mod all is normal. Except that you don't get any bulb out warning (tail light out) or (hand)brake combination light (brake light out). Of course if you pull the handbrake, that same light still lights/works, but that isn't modded here. So: Cheers, RX-Men-8

No. The hand brake warning works like before. It is triggered by a switch in the hand brake handle and not by the light failure sensor. just so we are clear, your method will also prevent the driver from knowing theres a light out, correct... Yes. No difference there compared to fitting load resistors.

Hi, As I can't post in the Group Buy threads regarding LED tail lights / brake lights, I'm opening a new one here. LED lights in tail/brake light draw so little power (current) that the light failure sensor will show a failure in the instrument cluster. For the tail lights this is the orange car-shaped light left of the rpm gauge, for the brake lights it is the red combination light which also works as a handbrake warning ((-)). Commonly this can be remedied by putting a load resistor across the bulb wires so more current is drawn to appease the light failure sensor. It's a pity the energy saving qualities of the LEDS go to waste, generating a lot of heat in and around the load resistors. Moreover, a light out wouldn't be detected anyway as the load resistor will keep the sensor happy. So why not do away with the light failure sensor altogether. I have managed this by disconnecting part of the light failure sensor. If you want to do the same, follow these steps, If you have a 1999 model IS200. I can't be sure but quite possibly this is the same on other models of IS200, IS300 or Altezzas. 1. Remove the boot liner at the left wheel well. Here you can see the left wheelwell in the boot. The light failure sensor is not easily seen as it is at the back of the panel (arrow). 2. Unplug the connector. At this point the tail and brake lights will not be working. 3. Unclip the purple/green and the purple/white wire from the connector. Use a very small screwdriver to unlock the latch holding the plug in the connector. These are the return leads to the orange tail light filure light and the red (hand)brake combination light ((-)) in the instrument cluster. Insulate the ends and 4. Plug the connector back in. Ready! To be absolutely clear regarding the questions in the following posts: This also sorts the high mounted brake light, which is checked by the same light failure sensor. So you can fit a LED there as well (W16W, 955 or equivalent, small fitting) without a load resistor. I couln't find a LED W16W equivalent and modded a 7443 instead. Cheers, RX-Men-8

Can't wait to see it, nice work!

Hi Pete, nice to hear from you :) Still very chuffed with that big lump of cast iron your colleague ferried over here - please thank her for me if you see her. RX-Men-8

Aaaahhhh, I use imdb.com a lot and i didn't know about this! Cheers for the link!

Great fun, isn't it? What a great toddler that is. Got one of my own: Cheers, RX-Men-8

VSC equals ESP, it's just a name. VDIM is a step further ;)

Changing tyres sorted it for me. I think the Yokohama db550s I had were too stiff and rectangular in the sidewall, after that I had tyres with a rounded shape sidewall e.g. Conti Sportcanotact 2 and Dunlop SP Sportmaxx. Cheers, RX-Men-8

In the IS200 it is just a mute wire from the car kit to the headunit. I'd expect the same in the new IS, but it can be a pain to sort out the pinout on the headunit. Since I'm using tomtom navigation on my phone I've disconnected it though. It seems the tomtom software puts the radio into mute permanently, and I want to hear music at the same time. RX-Men-8

The rim width is not related to tyre rubbing, of course the rim itself can be so wide it touches suspension parts. The things to worry about are tyre width and offset. Stock tyre width is 215 mm, stock offset is 50 mm. 1. Offset 40 means the whole wheel including tyre is going to be sticking 10 mm more outward. Adding spacers will reduce offset in other words the wheel and tyre will stick out more. 2. With tyre width 225 your tyre will stick out 5mm more on the outside and 5mm more on the inside of the wheel. Combining these two, the outside of your tyres will be 15 mm closer to the wheel arch and there'll be -5 mm (=more room) difference on the inside. With 235 mm tyre width you'll need a 50mm offset if you do not want to roll or shave the rear arches. (and 45 mm for 225 tyres, and 40 mm for 215 tyres). If your car is not lowered you may have a little more room. So the 215's are on the safe side with those rims. For 225's i'd prefer an offset of 45 unless you want to modify the rear wheel arches for a more aggressive look. Success! RX-Men-8

I'd say 225/35R19. With the offset of 40 you may need to do some minor arch shaving or rolling at the back, depending on how beefy the tyre walls are.

Dutch insurance ad. Ran about a year ago on Dutch TV. Sometimes the ads over here are too good, people all know the clip but forget what product ist was for.

Excellent!! Proof that the boardcomputernanny is manipulating you to go fill up early. Every time I think the IS200 is almost empty I can only fill up 60l, so there was another 50odd miles to go. RX-Men-8