matt-c

says IS300 That's right. So it's not a Sport then - because it doesn't say Sport on the V5. Just as you said here;

No, I know I won't find a halogen that outputs like a HID, I'm not looking for one that does. I'm looking for a bulb, halogen or LED/SMD, that outputs the same, if not better, than my current halogen bulbs, but with the same colour/appearance as my HID's...

Absolutely right. And out of curiosity, what does your V5 say, John?

Yeah, I don't want to fit HID's in the fogs or mains - they're just not needed IMO, and is a route I'd rather avoid. I'm just looking for bulbs (be them halogen or LED/SMD) that match output of the standard halogen bulbs (or possibly better them) and match the colour temp of the 5000k xenons in my dipped beam.

For example, I was looking at these; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-LED-10-5050-SMD-3W-Cree-Projector-Lens-Xenon-Headlight-Fog-Light-Bulbs-/290892424122?pt=UK_Light_Bulbs&var=&hash=item43ba8a23ba Both HB3 and HB4 available, and in 5000k colour temp. But are they going to be better/worse/as good as what I've got already (performance wise) and be a close enough match to the colour temp of my HID's?

I've got a pair of 5000k HID's in my 200, which are more or less total white. I popped a pair of cheap LED T10's in the sidelights just because the stock ones looked poo when the headlights are on, and am now tempted to do over the rest of the lights (main beam and fog) with bulbs to match the HID's in colour - without having to go to HID bulbs (which I don't want to do) The bulbs in the main beam, regular HB3's, are really good, but a contrasting colour. Likewise, the regular HB4's in the fogs are good (although I rarely use them now, since the HID dipped beams are so much better than the regular HB4's initially fitted), but contrast in colour. The times I do use the fogs, which technically I shouldn't I know, but there you go, is when it's not very bright, but not dark enough for headlights. I typically flip to sidelights, and turn the fogs on. Early morning, overcast days, drizzly, or later evening. Would be nice if all the bulbs on the front of the car matched in colour, and with decent performance. So long as they aren't worse than the current ones (which as said, are perfectly fine) or too overpowering they dazzle everything. Recommendations? I see LED or SMD bulbs all over the place, but no idea if they're any good, bad, pointless, gimmick, etc etc.

Or different time zone perhaps?

If you do, it won't be till about 5am. For some reason, he only responds around that time...

Gotta agree with Stuart. Going for an "interim" solution is just a false economy. Grab a pair of standard springs on eBay or the like, throw them on so the ride is balanced, and then change the whole lot out in one go.

So, there's a supercharger kit on craigslist in Edinburgh, for sale for a grand. It was mentioned here it's possibly a scam (and at a grand, half the normal price, it's a reasonable assumption. Also something mentioned about the photo being old from somewhere else) The link to the ad - http://edinburgh.craigslist.co.uk/ptd/3850446938.html So I thought I'd ask the seller some questions, see whats what. So first, I asked if it's still for sale; To which I got a reply So I then asked; To which I got no response... Undeterred, I asked; TO which he replied So, I replied back with this; It took three days, but this morning I got a reply So, I think that clears up it's most likely a scam. Any genuine seller would have asked why I want to use eBay and PayPal, or simply agreed, considering that I'm offering to pay all fee's so they don't lose money. But a scammer knows that Paypal provides protection against purchases made on eBay, but not on Craigslist. The admittance of not taking Paypal means it's only cash on collection (not gonna happen since it's a scam), bank transfer (not reversible) or other electronic payment such as Wester Union (and you'd have to be STUPID to use that for purchasing of goods!) So, I'd give this one a wide berth. The idea of buying a complete kit for a grand is appealing for sure, but the idea of losing a grand isn't!

Petay, I wasn't going to be, but since he refused to listen when I first told him, I needed to get my message across. I'd say the same to a guy in the pub if they refused to heed my advice the same way

Interesting. Got a reply from the supercharger seller; "If you want to buy from ebay then go to ebay please Anyways, I don't use paypal." LOL

Nice figures if they stand up! Is this on the 1G? Or was it an engine swap?

It does play a huge part in structural integrity. But along with that, it is what allows your airbags to work properly; both the two front ones, and the side, A-Post, ones too. Many people have been seriously injured, crippled, and even killed, by badly fitted windscreens. Whether they be fitted badly, or processes and proceedures not adhered to during the fitting process. We are shown a video, from time to time, from a woman in the US that had a screen fitted to her minivan. The screen wasn't fitted properly. She was involved in a car crash a good while later (I forget how long, but it wasn't just a week, it was a good while), and the screen was pushed out of the vehicle by the front airbag, due to it not being stuck in properly. Then van then rolled, and the roof collapsed at the front since there was no screen in the vehicle. Suffice to say, this woman was crippled for life. Another video we are shown, made by the company that makes the glue and primers, shows two identical Focus', both having screen replacements. One is fitted correctly, the other is fitted "well enough", but proceedures, such as primer drying times, are skipped. "Well enough" means it's not well enough at all, but there will be the ones that fit screens and think it's done "well enough". Anyway, both Focus' are crash tested, including the air bags going off. The 1st car survives the impact, and the screen holds fast while the airbags deploy correctly. The crash test dummy in it survives with a cracked rib or two and a few abrasions (and probably face rash from the airbag, but thats life). The 2nd one, although all processes have been met, the primer wasn't allowed to dry for the full time it needed. When crash tested, it's fine initially, but when the air bags go off, the screen is completely thrown clear of the car, several feet. The airbags deflate inside the cabin as there is no screen to hold them, and the crash test dummy dies of massive organ impact from hitting the steering wheel. Finally, the take another focus, don't primer it at all, glue it up, throw the screen in, and then crash it without waiting the full hour needed for the glue to dry - same thing happens, but this time the screen travel 15-20 feet clear of the vehicle. Now what if there was a pedestrian in the trajectory? They could be seriously injured, possibly decapitated. now you understand why I say if you plan to change a bonded windscreen on your own, with no training and no understanding on what you are doing, and more importantly WHY you are doing it, then don't ever drive that car on a public road, and don't ever sell it to anyone else. Me personally, I'd hate to be responsible for manslaughter; beit the motorist in the car, or pedestrian outside it, as a result of me fitting a windscreen poorly. A fitter I worked with came close - he didn't click the bonnet shut on a vehicle he worked on, by mistake. That customer left after the drying time, drove 2 miles in slow traffic, then got on a motorway. The bonnet flicked up at about 55/60mph. Fortunately, it wasn't busy, and she was in the inside lane, and thankfully - AMZINGLY - didn't panic, and just slammed the anchors on and pulled up on the shoulder. But that could have been tragic. I don't want anything like that on my conscience....

No performance difference between any models of IS200. S, SE, and Sport are mainly trim level differences. S was cloth interior, with non electric and non heated seats. I think both manual and automatic gearboxes, 16" wheels SE was half leather, heated and electric seats, both manual and auto, 17" wheels Sport was same interior as SE, only manual 'box, slightly different suspension (not 100% sure it's stiffer, but it is lower), few bits of chrome/ally inside (sill plates, pedals, different gear knob), 17" wheels. Full list here - http://lexusownersclub.co.uk/articles/UK%20Lexus%20Spec%20Sheet%20IS200.pdf

I do. Because I KNOW he can't do it. Sadly, some people won't listen to people who actually do know what they are talking about, and have the same syndrome as certain other users here, that think because they watched a video on the internet, or a DVD, they can do something right off the bat. I've no problem with him risking his own safety - if he's stupid enough to attempt it, then he's big enough to face the consequences. However, I'm not happy that he's seemingly uncaring about risking anyone else's safety, hence why I've made it abundantly clear he should drive this car on the public road, and never ever sell it to anyone else.

Eibach was going to be my suggestion too. From what I've read, on both this forum and O.J.C, along with other places on the net, an Eibach set up will give you a lower ride height, tighter handling, without much in the way of sacrificing comfort for day to day driving.

It happens - not often, but it does happen. But worse than possibly faulty electrics, a badly fitted windscreen can kill someone. There have been cases where incorrectly fitted windscreens have crippled people for life, and even resulted in death. Also, to the OP, where are you getting the replacement windscreen? You've made one phone call, to Autoglass, so I presume you haven't enquired anywhere as to buying a new screen? What sort of price are you expecting to pay for this? And how much do you think the tools will cost? Do you know what tools you need? Where are you expecting to get the glue from, and the primer? Do you know what the glue and primer costs? Do you know how to use the glue and primer? When you've bought your glue, and primer, what are you going to use to expel the glue? What about a new trim? Cost? From where?

Oh yes! Perfect video - of what NOT to do when replacing a windscreen. Good to see the "fitter" wasn't using cut proof gloves, any protection inside or outside the car, archaic tools, and is jumping all over the vehicle. Yes, looks easy huh? By the way, where's the rest of the video? Where it shows what you do AFTER you remove the windscreen? Because, surely, you don't think it looks easy to change your windscreen, without actually knowing to do the rest of it? There's a reason why people employ trained fitters to change windscreens. There's a reason why even main dealers won't change windscreens (or any bonded glass on a car). Why do you think that reason is? I mean, if anyone can change a windscreen cos they watched a video on the internet, then why would anyone employ a trained, skilled, windscreen fitter? Do you think you could perform surgery on someone after watching a video (or indeed, as this case is, watching half a video) on the internet? Moving on to your other points, if you think changing brake discs and engine oil is harder than a windscreen, you are in for a big shock. I'm no mechanic, but have worked on a lot of my own cars, from engine swaps, to brake system overhauls, to changing out entire suspension set ups, and wheel bearings. Those are rudimentary mechanics; things you can do if you can 1) read and 2) hold a spanner correctly. But if you think that pouring a liquid into a 2" hole is not as hard as changing a windscreen, I think you are very, VERY much mistaken. Tell me, whats the name of the tool the guy is using in the video to remove the windscreen? Autoglass will always be expensive if you are going private and not through insurance. They will always quote highly as they don't want your work. They focus on insurance work, as each contract is worth millions of pounds per year. It's not worth their time, nor effort, to do a one-off private windscreen change for one person. They also cannot quote less than they will for the insurance company - and why would they? I recently changed a windscreen on a 2001 IS200 S model. These didn't have heated screens as standard, however the screen I used was a heated one. Why? It's actually cheaper to get the heated one than the non heated. Supply vs demand. He was paying for it himself, not going through the insurance. Total cost? £173 inc VAT. So yeah, well done. You rang one place, got one price, and think that's that.... So how's about a bit less of what you think you know, but don't, and a bit more of listening to people who do know ;) If you really must change it yourself, and for the record I'm saying this is a BAD idea, then please don't ever drive it on a public road, and don't ever, EVER sell it to anyone else.

I would either upgrade your insurance, or pay a company to come do it for you. I will never advocate DIY windscreen replacement, unless it's indirectly glazed (which yours isn't). Again, for the materials cost alone; glue, primer, tools incl. glue gun, the screen itself, a new trim, the cost isn't going to be far off paying a professional to do it for you, and you can look at the small extra as being for the fact the glass, and the fitting, is guaranteed

For what it will cost to buy the glass, the tools, the glue, the primer, etc etc - just pay someone else to do it. If you're fully comp on the insurance, it'll cost between £50 and £75. Seeing as the windscreen is a massive safety point, and not just a piece of glass you see out of, unless you actually know what you are doing, don't do it yourself. If you do decide to do it yourself, please don't ever sell that car to anyone else. To the second poster. The screen has nothing to do, and is in no what connected to any of the lights in your vehicle. The only connection a screen has in a 1st Gen IS is the wiper heater element along the bottom of the screen. The auto lights are controlled by one of the two small "domes" on the drivers side of the dash board. However, these have nothing to do with your fog lamps. I would wager that there is a leak, that's trickling into the drivers footwell fuse bank, and is the cause of your light issues. If the screen was fitted by a proper company, it will be under warranty, so have it removed, checked, and refitted. If you fitted it yourself, regardless of whether there is a leak or not - have it removed, checked and fitted properly. Lesson - don't fit bonded glass to vehicles yourself, unless you are trained and have the correct equipment. I'm all for people fitting indirect glazing (side/opening windows, front or rear screens that are held in with rubber trims and not bonded), but when it comes to bonded glass, let a professional do the work. Even main dealers don't undertake bonded glass work - they subcontract it out. There is a reason for that.

Alloy is porous. I wouldn't be using paint stripper on it. If you don't want to pay for refurbs, at the bare minimum, take them to a shot blaster and get them media blasted. At least that way you'll have a clean, smooth, and even surface to work with.

Can't say I remember ever fitting a front door glass to anything other than a saloon IS, but I don't remember seeing two different glasses listed for the 1st gen IS, to differentiate between saloon and estate

I kinda just did ;)

I'm pretty sure the door glasses are the same in the (front at least) of a saloon and a SportCross, so there's no reason the wind deflectors would be different. The curve is definitely not arched enough, and the length way too long. It's hard to tell from a pic, but it may be they just need curving in, which might pull the back edge in far enough to fit. Id' be tempted to leave them out in the sun all day to soften up (they won't melt, they're designed to be outside 24/7) and then gently try bending them in. I doubt very much they'll shatter, as they are an outside plastic, designed to be in hot sun and cold winters. But slow and gentle is the name of the game