JohnDavis

This is a known fault on these head units - mine does it but they come on as the interior warms up. The bulbs rarely fail, and only ever the odd one, so if none work it is the supply - which is usually the capacitors as mentioned above. There are tutorials on youtube and Lexus websites about it, but you have to be a confident at soldering - getting the unit out is not a big job. There are also firms that offer a repair service.

If it is sealed then presumably it will burst from air expansion when heated to this level anyway - I think blasting and hot zinc spray followed by epoxy paint will be good.

All of the four LS400s I have owned have had surface corrosion on the rear subframe, but not 'seriously weakened' - yet! I fear that this will force the end of many good LSs in the future. I have a spares car, and I plan to have the subframe of this sandblasted and either hot zinc sprayed or galvanized (which I would think is the best option), then built up off the car with new bushes, brakes and so on, for a quick substitution on the car I now have. Does anyone know whether the high temperatures used in galvanizing would distort the frame?

Thanks everyone - I have used the Gliptone and it is excellent, very nice leathery smell, left the seats feeling nice and smooth and flexible. Some of the cracks are too deep to hide, still, but I will try some of the filling products - nothing to lose really, as I'll have them redone if they don't come out well.

The front seats on my 1996 LS400 are cracking and don't look too great. I've seen some 'connolising' but it often looks and feels like somebody's spilled a can of emulsion paint all over the seat. I've also seen good re-upholstery but that looks too new unless you do the whole car. I'd like to buy a pair of seats, or just the covers, or even just the cushion part. It looks to me as if the passenger and drivers cushion covers (but not squabs) are interchangeable, in which case passenger covers are likely to be less worn, so two of these would be great. They are quite a dull beige colour, darker than those on the S2 I used to have, I think, but standard on the S3. Has anyone got any tidy ones? Oh yes - and a brown steering wheel!

Don't be afraid of high mileage on any LS - but ownership and maintenance history are crucial. My first LS400 was bought from a chauffeur hire company with 340,000 miles and had no problems except aircon compressor failure which could happen on any 20 rear old car. I have recently sold my second LS400 to a friend (and I wouldn't do that unless I was totally confident) at 310,000 and bought one with 175,000 miles, which did need quite a lot of 'catch-up' jobs but the tidy original body makes it worth keeping. I do think the 400 is less complex and more elegant than the 430, but on the other hand the 430 still has that feel of Lexus quality which long term owners value. Either way, choose on condition and history and you'll never look at another make.

My Mk 3 LS400 was suffering from flange disease, so I sent it to Demand Engineering (near Ipswich) who repaired the cats (which I suspect do most of the silencing) then put in a straight through resonator, no centre silencers, kept the original rear silencers, and put two 3 inch tips through a cut valance. Now it sounds great - a bit like a big boat idling, a subtle rumble if you put your foot down, very slight extra noise at 60, factory silent at 70 to 80. Well worth doing, as it needed a new system anyway. Thursday it's going to have the wheels done at Wheel Genie in Huntingdon - They did a great job on my Mk 2 LS several years ago. No shortcuts, they take the tyres off and the paint is baked on.

Hi Roy - I was going past today so popped in to collect the promised pump - now told I have to send mine off first! Found my spare one and have sent it to the people who do my trucks instead, I will tell you how it works out.

I have just taken my spare alternator into a local specialist to be rebuilt, these independent specialists are very good, (or at least mine is) and they normally charge 65 to 100 pounds.

Hi Roy - I have just ordered a recon pump from someone I know in the trade - cost is 130 plus vat and delivery 3 days with no exchange - I had been told that my only option was to take mine off, send it away, wait two weeks, go even greyer, etc. etc. If it's good when it comes I'll give you the details of where to get one.

Malc - I thought about welding it but the cause of the problem seems to be dissimilar metals (stainless and mild) setting up electrical gradients with salt and heat, leading to electrolytic corrosion. As I want to keep the car (even in the garage after we plebs are forced to call for self driving electric mobility pods) I have booked in to an excellent local company (Demand Engineering of Earl Soham, who did a classy job on my Volvo 760 Estate) and have a lifetime warranty, and a little bit of V8 rumble built in too! Sir Henry Royce, who made some cars that are next best to the LS - said 'the quality remains long after the price is forgotten'.

Phil - Last enquiry it was about 700 - left it then, thinking 10 quid waxoyl, so I hope they've still got some - probably have as I wouldn't think they've sold many in recent years - that may change as the best cars become appreciated.

I have used the green gel Swarfega, which does not have the abrasive content of other hand cleaners, to great effect. Vacuum the seats first, especially in the crevices. Rub the Swarfega on neat, then use a damp cloth to wipe it off, then a dry cloth. When it is dry I like to put on the white Gliptone cream which makes the leather soft and smells good.

Most LS400 owners will agree that they are the best, I think that if they need money spent, think of the cost of replacing them with something equivalent (but not as good) and ignore the car's resale value - if you are going to keep it, that's irrelevant. I'm thinking of ordering a new rear subframe, having it galvanized, and swapping it at some opportune point, as I think that these are starting to result in the demise of otherwise good cars. I am also having a new stainless exhaust, as mine has flange disease, it will cost but only about the same as 3 months payments on a new Mercedes or BMW. I quite like caramac, too.

My '95 Mk 3 - Sound system LCD faded and incomplete - had another head unit with good LCD but no lights (another common fault) so unplugged screen unit and replaced it. Very pleased when it all worked OK! Rust creeping out from under driver's door window trim - not fixed yet but will probably replace door. One of the few lapses in quality, I expect the trim clips score the paint when installed - but hey, 19 years and 290,000 miles, can't complain. Boot leaked - removed seal, cleaned surround and seal, squeezed it a bit tighter all around (it has internal light steel reinforcement which opens up over time) refitted paying attention to seating it properly - now dry for the last year. I have found the angle of the accelerator pedal on all of the four LS400s I have had uncomfortably flat in relation to the floor - I have to bend my foot forward just to cruise. I pulled the (fairly flexible) pedal sideways, towards the brake pedal, disengaged the notch moulded on the back from the steel rod, and pulled the pedal back. I wanted it to end up nearly upright, just below the height of the brake. I found a plastic bush, about 3/4 inch across and 1/2 inch wide, drilled it to fit nicely over the rod, and held it in place with a spring clip each side. This rolls on the rod, and the accelerator pedal moulding presses on it. The pedal does not flop back at you - it has enough spring in it to press lightly on the roller. Now very comfy over any distance, and easier access to that lovely surge of power! ECT switch on console, to modify gearbox response, not working - nor does the yellow 'ECT selected' light come on. Replaced with a switch known to work - still not working. No fuse that I can find. This is the only item on the car that is faulty. On -On - to 500,000!

Just joined after ten years of LS400 ownership. I've had some nice cars but the LS is just the best! I have a dilemna - I have a 56000 mile Mk 3 which was perfect - until I slid it into a bush on an icy road. It needs front lamps, bumper, 1 wing and bonnet - still runs perfect, aircon works etc, but if I repair it then it will probably need painting, even if I use parts from a car the same colour (cashmere), as they age differently. Then will the new paint match....? Meanwhile, suffering from withdrawal symptoms, I bought a silver Mk 3 cheaply, to use for parts when the MOT ran out, but despite it's 290,000 miles it drives so well that I can't bear to break it! So I've sent it in for new ball joints, discs etc. to get it up to standard, and no parts to come off it! So do I break the damaged car? Do I sell it to somebody who will repair it? Do I buy another breaker and repair it myself? Then I'll have two, which I don't need. Help.......!

Just joined after ten years of LS400 ownership. I've had some nice cars but the LS is just the best! I have a dilemna - I have a 56000 mile Mk 3 which was perfect - until I slid it into a bush on an icy road. It needs front lamps, bumper, 1 wing and bonnet - still runs perfect, aircon works etc, but if I repair it then it will probably need painting, even if I use parts from a car the same colour (cashmere), as they age differently. Then will the new paint match....? Meanwhile, suffering from withdrawal symptoms, I bought a silver Mk 3 cheaply, to use for parts when the MOT ran out, but despite it's 290,000 miles it drives so well that I can't bear to break it! So I've sent it in for new ball joints, discs etc. to get it up to standard, and no parts to come off it! So do I break the damaged car? Do I sell it to somebody who will repair it? Do I buy another breaker and repair it myself? Then I'll have two, which I don't need. Help.......!