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Farqui

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Posts posted by Farqui

  1. Hi Bash, welcome to the forum.

    The dash light indicates that the power steering isn't juiced up enough - ref; https://drivers.lexus.com/lexusdrivers/experiences/experiences-details/ART2645

    The lack of start-up sounds like a safety restriction, as steering is kinda critical right 😉

    Do you have an OBD scanner that you can use to review any active/stored codes?

    Which Battery are you saying is okay? - the 12v aux Battery or the hybrid traction Battery

    Your profile says 2006, so do you know if the 12v Battery is still the original OEM unit?  If so, then maybe it's working changing after all these years...

    Good luck and let us know how you get on.

    Cheers, Lee

  2. @Charlie Alder it keeps the Hybrid computer asleep so you can change the disks/pads safely. 

    It it wakes up whilst during disks/pads then it can activate the brakes and pop out the pistons, crush your pinkies, etc.  

    The keyless entry system can wake up the brake computer which then primes the brakes ready for you to drive away.

    It is possible to leave the 12v supply connected but you must keep the key fob/keyless entry away from the vehicle whilst you are spannering.

    • Like 1
  3. Hey Martin, My GS has done this for a few years now and I oddly a recent regas of the AC helped and boosted the passenger output from stone cold (even when max heat selected on that side) to luke warm.

    If you research online you'll see that the heater servos can play up - mine appear to all be working okay and I'm loathed to rip into them again as some are a right pain to refit into the heater guides.

    Issues are also reported with the heater matrix's which have a design that can easily clog on one side of the vehicle, the passenger side for right hand drives. The design has both the feed and return pipes on the same side (drivers) so coolant flow across the matrix isn't even and the far side (passenger) can clog up.  I've flushed, soaked and back flushed my matrix numerous times and still find small black particles coming out, from where I can only speculate.  After all this, the passenger heat output has improved a little but the drivers side is really good now!  It's been a while since I did a flush, so I'll try and get another done when the weather improves.

    Cabin temp sensors might be worth looking into if you use the Auto function but we don't and still have the issue.  Maybe I should test Auto again and see if there's any improvement?

    To really investigate/fix either area any further I'm looking at taking the dash out but only when the ambient temps increase.  A new heater core/matrix can be sourced for just £46 from Rockauto + p&p, so whilst the dash is out I'm tempted to get one and replace mine anyway

    Dave at Lex-Tek has seen a few older cars with clogged heater cores, he replaced one in an RX not long ago that felt much heavier than the replacement. 

    I will also be keen to hear if other folks have fixed this issue.

    Good luck.

    • Like 1
  4. I'm not surprised as the O2 cables often get untwisted and twisted back up if the sensors are backed out of the exhaust e.g. whilst replacing the exhaust.

    The other end of the O2 plug us typically within the cabin and can often be a pain to get to.

    Also if the engine/exhaust has excessive play in the engine mounts/exhaust hangers then the sensor cables could come under additional pressure and start to break up/pull out of the sensor.

  5. Hi Paul, running a premium fuel through is an easy option if it's helped your issue 🙂

    Hmmm, I thought Shell V Power contained more additives vs regular fuel options but that it didn't boost the octane. 

    Whereas BP Ultimate does boost the octane.

    References; https://www.shell.co.uk/motorist/shell-fuels/shell-v-power/shell-v-power-unleaded.html

    https://www.bp.com/content/dam/bp-country/en_au/media/fuel-news/fuel-octane-power.pdf

    Premium fuel threads can become quite heated and I hope this thread doesn't fall into a long winded snake oil rant.

    If it worked for you and your seat of the pants dyno, then that's all that matters.

    Just out of interest, how many miles has your LS clocked?

    I also wonder how well maintained it was before you took ownership?

    Cheers, Lee

  6. Hi Paul,

    £450 each seems excessive, the rears are £250 here; https://www.lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/parts/category/lexus-gs/lexus-gs-phase-iii-2005-2012/lexus-gs-3-steering-suspension/

    You can run with the actuators removed from the top of the dampers without any warning lights/etc, tuck them up somewhere they won't rattle.  I ran like this for a while whilst working on my rear ride height.

    Just don't unplug the actuators from the wiring.

    Cheers, Lee

    • Like 1
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