Farqui

Just catching up on your progress and you've done a great job pal, well done.

Thanks for highlighting this, it popped up on my YT feed and enjoy it. It shows plenty of mechanical details, maybe too much for some Lexus owners 😄

I'm not sure how this is relevant but it made me check how many trips we've done to Europe in our GS. ln almost 4 years of ownership we've done 11 trips to Belgium. Surprised me, they soon add up. The only roadside issue she gave was excessive/rapid tyre wear due to bad rear toe adjusters. Terrible reliability, terrible.

Wow, had a good long drive today over Nottinghamshire's finest/worse roads...the car feels completely different with new front dampers. The leaking unit has obviously been poor for some time. Those rough Belgian cobbles took their toll this spring. The next time the jet washer is out, I'm going to try and find the source of the leak in the damper body.

Well done Richard, looks great

You're welcome, pals and I have found that BH products work although I must say there are now many more good options out there. Will be keen to see how you get on treating your vehicle John...

Thanks John @J Henderson, I can't express how much better the complex rear end now looks - I'll try and get some pic's online when she's next airborne. Good call asking what I used...after clean the undercarriage was treated with Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 - a messy job but well worth it. I've used this in the past without any protection and it keeps rust at bay. Then I applied a liberal coat of BH Electrox, which went on really nicely and was very satisfying. Being silver you could see where you'd been and it also helped when applying dark coverings later on. I then applied Tectyl 190 (this also covers well) and other miscellaneous paints I had in stock. I aim to add some protection and Dynax UB has been recommended but I haven't ordered anything yet. Does anyone else have any recommendations? Product links; https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/hydrate-80 https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/electrox https://www.tectyleurope.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/PI_Tectyl-190-Black_TE019-01.pdf https://www.bilthamber.com/dynax-ub

Front dampers replaced and test drove really well 😃 Almost finished with the underbody prep, it looks much better under there now. Both front and back.

@Spacewagon52 I take no credit for the heater work, even I left that to someone else.

Front dampers, old and new. The old drivers side is damp with oil/darker, was leaking from the rusty bracket. Once the spring was removed, you could easily move the damping rod, it's definitely broken. All back together now and the underside has been treated and sealed. Looks much better. Will upload some pics tomorrow as I ran out of daylight today.

Looking good Neil, looking smart well done.

Hi Julian, have you checked both B pillars for the vehicle code stickers? If there aren't present, then you can run your VIN# through online decoders to figure out your paint code. Good luck, Cheers, Lee

Beached for a few days Where'd the sunshine go 😞

Dampers were ordered early on Monday morning but later in the day I found out that the NSF wouldn't be in stock until mid October 😞 However they've since had a stock update and reckon it'll be in for dispatch tomorrow and should be with me Monday. I managed to clean and treat/protect all of the undercarriage in yesterday afternoons sunshine, so will now take my time finishing that job off. Removing the front dampers is very easy with just a lower bolt, speed sensor bracket, 3 top bolts and the upper rocker arm. The drop links stay in place as they bolt into the lower arm.