Farqui

You can get individual pins from RockAuto

For a switch supply use a piggy back fuse off the cigarette or auxiliary power socket. On my gen 3, the ciggy socket is switched with the ignition. Check this on yours with a multi meter/similar. I wouldn't advise wiring it up to a permanent live supply as you this flattening the battery. Earth to a suitable chassis bolt nearby.

William your assumptions are pretty much spot on, although my in-car gauge is slightly different to yours. The app gives much more info and will for instance confirm when the hydraulic brakes are actually applied. There are a bunch of short YouTube vid's provided by the developer that show the app in use, which are well worth a look.

I've recently been using that app and it's fiendishly clever how it displays the information. At first viewing there's too much data but I think the fog is clearing after using it a while. It certainly looks trick @Zotto, what OBD adaptor are you using? I managed to snag myself a used one of these

While the boot trim was out recently I added another boot light fitting to the dark, previously light-less side of the wide boot/trunk. I decided to slot it into the small, removable OEM light access panel I know it's a bit early to be thinking of dark winter mornings/evenings but it made sense to do it. The second light housing was about £10 used and was easily soldered in. PS: I initially fitted a brighter LED lamp to the OEM boot light fitting but if you had anything in the boot, then the far side was still dark.

Ah that's interesting, if the whole caliper has excessive play then changing this 'bush' can't hurt. I guess the pins could also be worn but rubber wears quicker than metal 😉 I bought my 'bush' in a kit; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/REAR-BRAKE-CALIPER-REPAIR-KIT-FOR-LEXUS-GS300-GS430-GS450H-IS250-IS300-TOYOTA/123263904168 You might be able to get that bush from the dealer but my local stealer parts department isn't great e.g. didn't know what a PCV was, so I've steered clear since. Take a look on the likes of Rock Auto, 7zap, etc for the part# and have a hunt around.

Hi @Tevron, sorry to see that your zoorst fell off 😞 It looks like it's failed completely at the rear Y section, which is where mine was leaking from last year. The car still ran quiet with this fault so I understand how you didn't spot the issue earlier. I went up to Tony Banks (Leeds) and he made me a completely new middle/rear section for considerably less than an OEM equivalent. Good luck getting it resolved and let us know how you get on.

@usuf_x / Yousaf, You say that your calipers move a bit, which is consistent with mine. However my NSR recently developed a knock when the hydraulic brakes kicked in at low speeds. Whilst inspecting I noticed that the caliper itself had more movement than the OSR. So I replaced the top caliper to carrier 'bush', which is a rubber guide for the top pin/slider. Here's one; https://www.ebay.com/itm/4787930300-Genuine-Toyota-BUSH-CYLINDER-SLIDE-NO-1-FOR-REAR-DISC-BRAKE-/182382085127 This has solved my issue and may help yours?

Well done, it's good to see you getting this done yourself - very rewarding

Excellent news, good to hear that you're all sorted now.

Yes, I've also seen that pushing fluid back can sometimes upset the sensors/etc. My Lexus indo cleared the codes with his code reader, which is more advanced than my basic BT reader. But if you can then do try clearing the errors with whatever you have to hand, you can't loose anything by trying. The indi did say that folks often fear the extra Hybrid gubbins but in his experience working on brakes/etc rarely caused problems. But then again, he knows the procedure where many don't. So he's less likely to hit a snag in the first place.

Hey Brian, did you bleed the brakes too? You didn't mention it, so I presume you didn't. I had my disks/pads changed and fluid bled recently which threw codes. Once cleared, then all was well.

On my mk3 GS the fan is under the rear parcel shelf and is easily accessible via the boot trim.

...no servo'd brakes either if you kill the engine, so beware of heavy steering (good shout, my old car didn't have this) and heavy brakes. But you'll be so pumped that it won't be a problem!

Yikes, I bet that got your attention! I presume you were able to kill the ignition as soon as possible right? I once had a dip stick spin around and lodge under the mechanical throttle linkage which had similar results. Rather than select neutral I killed the ignition and pulled over sharpish. I seem to recall that the dip stick got bent out of harms way after that close call. Good luck getting this sorted.