Farqui

[emoji106]

Herbs @Herbie, Simon wasn't aware of the DRL switching requirements, then maybe an off the shelf harness would be more suitable? They aren't expensive either, example harness https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/de/automatic-daytime-running-lights-wiring-kit Simon @Blueriver, as for a switched live feed, something like the accessories fuse would be a good tap'g point but these are now often located within the cabin/footwell fuse board. From the engine bay I'd be reluctant to tap into something like the fuel pump or similar component that is critical to the cars running. If necessary then running a switched feed from the cabin shouldn't be too much hassle. Let us know how you get on.

You can buy a DRL wiring harness with all the necessary relays ;)

Andrew / @Odysseus, well done that's a great review and should prove very useful to other owners and potential buyers alike It's interesting to see what work/parts you've had fitted too. Apart from a new exhaust shortly after purchase (subsidized by the vendor) mine has only needed service items - long may that continue. Like John I regularly get 450+ miles from a tank although i don't boot it everywhere/all the time. Checking my pump-2-pump records over 18 months / 15.7k miles of ownership...I've averaged 35mpg. I used to get a slightly higher average when I sat on the A1 for hours at a time but I now mostly drive back lines / town with just the odd long run (who needs a 106 mile commute - each way!). I'm also very happy with my GS and enjoy every trip. Oh and finally, where are the ?!

Welcome to the forum Nicky and I hope you manage to figure out the underlying cause without too much hassle or cost. I have my fingers crossed for you.

Check here Mark;

No, the headlights are HID and a flat beam without any kick-up at the side that the converters adjust. To test park against a wall with your lights on. Turn off AFS, if your car has that option.

You can get individual pins from RockAuto

For a switch supply use a piggy back fuse off the cigarette or auxiliary power socket. On my gen 3, the ciggy socket is switched with the ignition. Check this on yours with a multi meter/similar. I wouldn't advise wiring it up to a permanent live supply as you this flattening the battery. Earth to a suitable chassis bolt nearby.

William your assumptions are pretty much spot on, although my in-car gauge is slightly different to yours. The app gives much more info and will for instance confirm when the hydraulic brakes are actually applied. There are a bunch of short YouTube vid's provided by the developer that show the app in use, which are well worth a look.

I've recently been using that app and it's fiendishly clever how it displays the information. At first viewing there's too much data but I think the fog is clearing after using it a while. It certainly looks trick @Zotto, what OBD adaptor are you using? I managed to snag myself a used one of these

While the boot trim was out recently I added another boot light fitting to the dark, previously light-less side of the wide boot/trunk. I decided to slot it into the small, removable OEM light access panel I know it's a bit early to be thinking of dark winter mornings/evenings but it made sense to do it. The second light housing was about £10 used and was easily soldered in. PS: I initially fitted a brighter LED lamp to the OEM boot light fitting but if you had anything in the boot, then the far side was still dark.

Ah that's interesting, if the whole caliper has excessive play then changing this 'bush' can't hurt. I guess the pins could also be worn but rubber wears quicker than metal 😉 I bought my 'bush' in a kit; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/REAR-BRAKE-CALIPER-REPAIR-KIT-FOR-LEXUS-GS300-GS430-GS450H-IS250-IS300-TOYOTA/123263904168 You might be able to get that bush from the dealer but my local stealer parts department isn't great e.g. didn't know what a PCV was, so I've steered clear since. Take a look on the likes of Rock Auto, 7zap, etc for the part# and have a hunt around.

Hi @Tevron, sorry to see that your zoorst fell off 😞 It looks like it's failed completely at the rear Y section, which is where mine was leaking from last year. The car still ran quiet with this fault so I understand how you didn't spot the issue earlier. I went up to Tony Banks (Leeds) and he made me a completely new middle/rear section for considerably less than an OEM equivalent. Good luck getting it resolved and let us know how you get on.

@usuf_x / Yousaf, You say that your calipers move a bit, which is consistent with mine. However my NSR recently developed a knock when the hydraulic brakes kicked in at low speeds. Whilst inspecting I noticed that the caliper itself had more movement than the OSR. So I replaced the top caliper to carrier 'bush', which is a rubber guide for the top pin/slider. Here's one; https://www.ebay.com/itm/4787930300-Genuine-Toyota-BUSH-CYLINDER-SLIDE-NO-1-FOR-REAR-DISC-BRAKE-/182382085127 This has solved my issue and may help yours?