matt8

I'd be guessing just a serial number of some sort, to help detect fake stamps perhaps. Maybe they rotate them annually, quarterly, or monthly, and keep a log of those accordingly.

Make sure the battery change doesn't blow the radio unit, like a few have reported here.

They don't always make sense these algorithms. Today I insured one of our other cars and was playing with some of the variables. I got quoted £20 less for choosing a £100 lower voluntary excess than their default.

My 2013 Is300h (F Sport) is just £10 VED. Why the difference, I've heard some are £10 and some are £20.

Someone kindly shared this video in another thread. Does anyone think it's possible to access the shutter, jig it around and free it up a bit, without unsealing the headlight unit as a whole? Maybe a bit easier with the headlight removed. In which case, anyone got a steer on how to remove the entire headlight? Bumper removal job I know.

Make sure they do it. I had Motorline Cardiff promise me touch up, alloys, etc. and fail to do it. I had to have the car sent back so they could do it. Sadly the alloy work they did ended up needing redoing a little later, as a proper alloy refurb is taking tyres off. Seems they just sprayed over mine, and I had peeling within 12 months.

You mention 5 other issues you've had, @Josh86 What were they if you don't mind us asking? If I had 5 prior issues I'd be feeling the same!

Here's the question then. Whose telling their insurers? I know you're supposed to ("modifications"), but practically speaking?

What function does this part serve? Do they wear out and should one proactively replace them for optimal performance?

Even some hand washes are not good. A very strong cleaner is often applied at cheaper hand car washes that makes the clean quick and easy, but which is highly damaging to paintwork, alloys, etc. Watch out!

Mixing up its left and right? I wonder if this adapter is for LHD. Would that even make a difference? No idea.

Took switch off today. Just one bolt to undo. Looked and thought it was a bit strange, the male connector was just one pin. It made me wonder why or how it could work. I cleaned it, reconnected it and it wasn't working at all at this point. It was intermittent before taking it off. So I thought I had killed the switch off. I cleaned it some more, poked at it a bit, etc. I then proceeded to undo the bolt and take the switch off the nearside rear door, but it's different with a right angle connector. So I decided not to remove it, but to then try the front offside / driver door. When I opened the door, the red indicator on the dashboard to indicate the switch was depressed (door open) came on, as expected. I removed the bolt and then immediately noticed the indicator had gone off and therefore was not working. I thought to abandon my diagnosis and screwed the bolt back in for the driver front door. Then the red light came back on, all OK again. Then it clicked... The bolt is the ground for these door switches, which is why the one male pin is OK. As soon as a screwed it back together on what was the broken / intermittent switch I was diagnosing, the red indicator on the dashboard came back on. After all the spraying and prodding of the switch, I'm almost certain it was the grounding of the bolt. A little twist would probably have sufficed. All sorted! The bolt is the important ground in this switch.

Thanks Steve. Will be giving this a go first. Cheers

Seems the switch on the front passenger door is intermittent! Looking at the "door open" indicator on the dashboard, it remains off (i.e. car thinks all doors are closed) sometimes. Pushing it in and then releasing it yields random results. Sometimes the light is on (door appear open) and sometimes the light is off (door appears closed). I guess I need a new switch here then. Anyone any idea what a part number / cost might be? I can't imagine it's a difficult swap, but might be wrong...

My car has the option. I believe memory seats is a requirement. F-Sport

Sounds about right. Will check that out and report back!

Good point. Need to further diagnose then. But you are in agreement yes, the car should not be lockable with a door open?

Hi all Not sure if I'm making this up but I am certain that in times past, the car would fail to lock if a door was open at all (even partly open, i.e. door not properly slammed closed). Recently I've noticed the car can be locked (mirrors closing in is the evidence) with a door fully open still. Not sure if I'm pressing the button in my pocket as I load stuff up, or if it's automatically locking (in the same way that if I unlock the car and don't open the door, it'll lock as a security feature). Anyone experience the same? Have I inadvertently changed a setting somewhere? Or is something going a bit faulty perhaps... Thanks

They all seem to suffer the same fate in varying degrees. I'm not sure what level of success you'll have with a replacement from a used vehicle at the scrap yard. Where else can moisture be getting in?

Thanks! Is that 6 hours waiting time / locktite to dry / debating what to do next? Or does it really take that long to remove the bumper etc? I.e. if you did it again today how long might it take you to do?

Is that with it disconnected from the car and off? What voltage reading do you get when the car is connected and on? Should be 14.4V or so.

Extensive conversation and developments here. https://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/126933-screen-black-after-battery-change/

Low 12v battery seems to be the cause of many gremlins. Worth testing the battery and replacing it. Or at least giving it a good top up with a trickle charger if it is not too old / defective. Watch out for killing your radio when disconnecting the 12v and / or switching the 12v for a new one. Documented issue on these forums, very expensive fix.

Great work! So you just add the module to the BX box? Not swapping anything out at all?

Let us know how you get on!