BigBoomer

Almost certainly the battery in the sensor. One of my motorcycles has TPMS and after a few years they get really slow to react, at first only in the winter, then all the time, and soon after that the sensor battery low warning comes up.

The LS430 does a pretty good job of keeping muck off the sides of the car. Even when I got her stuck in mud a few weeks ago and was spinning the rear wheels, the mud covered most of the rear wheels but very little ended up on the bodywork. There are built in mud "flaps" but they don't flap. 😁 Try fitting a set of bright orange Rally mud-flaps and give your car the full Clark/McRae/Burns/Meeke/Evans look. 🤣

I think you'll find you already paid for that. I know I am paying a small fortune for mine and can't wait to start drawing it. Then I will finally have the time and enough money for all the projects I have lined up. However, knowing my luck I'll pop my clogs shortly after that 🙄

Yup, looks 100% normal to me. The gaps between the tyres and wheel arches are different front to back, but the car is level.

Niaz, it might help if you posted a photo of your LS600h taken side on with the camera close to the ground. When you look or take photo from "normal" height your perspective is fooled by the shapes of the wings and arches and body lines. I have just looked at 20+ side on photos of LS460/600 and all of those that were unmodified were pretty much dead level, much like the one in the photo I shared.

After comparing the underside of my 140k mile 2004 LS430 (tiny patches of surface rust here and there) with that of a 60k mile 2017 Citroen C4 Picasso (tiny patches with NO rust here and there, but several structural issues due to rust and an MOT failure. Was told it'd probably have to be scrapped),... I'll take having to replace the silencers after 20 years of abuse, and be grateful. My MOT guy showed me the 2 cars side by side. Was an eye opener!! Wish I'd taken pics.

Sounds like the Amp has either blown it's fuse, or else died. Fuse is easy enough to check. Otherwise, send the amp off to a specialist to be repaired. The following is not a recommendation. Just what I found on t'internet. 🙂 https://svtservices.co.uk/lexus-mark-levinson-power-amp-repair-service/

Both of those silencers have been patched before. I'm not surprised that nobody wants to try patching them again. There is a cheap pair on eBay right now in Bristol, so not too far away. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/276227981850 They do look like they are for the facelift 04-06 but you can fit downturn tips if yours doesn't have the cut-outs in the rear bumper for the chrome tips.

If it's like the LS430, then it is an optical illusion. Most cars are slightly higher at the rear to compensate for squat under acceleration. You can't compare front and rear wheel arches as they are different. If yours is genuinely lower at the rear, then you have suspension issues.

For the 07 model the part numbers are the same for the headlights (81185-50360, left headlight for RHD cars) for both the 460 and 600 so it looks like you should be able to use the lens from a 460. https://lexus-europe.epc-data.com/ls460_460l/usf40r/5113/electric/8101/81175/ https://lexus-europe.epc-data.com/ls600h_600hl/uvf45r/5121/electric/8101/81175/

When I last used a dealer (Honda) for service, they used to give me a "test" car for the day, because I simply didn't fit in their loan cars (Jazz/Civic). Only the S2000 ever impressed me. I always return my loan/rental cars with a full tank, but I also check that they are full when I am handed the keys, and have on a couple of occasions had to go back and insist that they fill the car before I would accept it.

Autoteile.de is pretty good, but don't expect miracles as the LS did not sell very well at all in the EU, so parts are rare. At the moment they only have one used left 04-06 headlight at €500, which is stupidly expensive for a used part. They are only £590 each brand new from RockAuto in the USA. If you need the parts fast, then my advice is still to buy used in USA/Middle East (eBay) and pay for fast shipping. In the USA there were lots of LS430s sold so lots of spares available. One final thing. The LS430 headlight has a clear lens, so just changing the lens has no effect on the headlight pattern. To get the correct pattern you need to replace the headlights.

I work in support for a horribly complex piece of software, and have many customers who contact me directly because I provide a no-bull****, straight up service. They would rather be told the unvarnished truth than fobbed off with lies and promises that are never delivered on. Under-promise and Over-deliver, and if you don't make any profit this time, you will next time, and the time after that, etc. Unfettered greed and "Profit Today" is at the root of the problems in so many companies.

You probably disturbed a wire that connects to the sensor for the temp gauge. I don't know the LS400 but the sensor is normally bolted into the radiator and has 2 wires. However, disconnecting the battery waiting 15 secs, then reconnecting it can often resolve this kind of issue.

Yup, needs LHD headlight for permanent export. You will need to search German/Dutch websites as that was where most LS430s were sold in the EU, (apart from the UK). Otherwise, your best bet would probably be LHD countries in the Middle East or from the USA/CDN.

What does a decarbon involve? I've never heard of it except for cleaning the heads on 2 stroke engines.

Nah, Full Synthetic is a better oil than semi or dino oil. Semi-synth is fine for older engines (and cheaper) but pretty much anything made after 2005 should be running full synth. If you have 5W30 full synth that should be good for your engine. It may be worth using a flushing oil at the next oil change, but that may also cause other issues as it can "cause" oil leaks by dissolving varnish deposits that were sealing gaps. Chances are the VVT system needs a clean out as they are oil operated and may not be moving to the cold start position due to crud.

Remortgage? 🤣🤣

I've always hated car alarms. I used to live in a terraced house in Chelmsford and behind us was a 100 space car park. Getting a decent nights sleep was damned near impossible due to the plethora of car alarms going off whenever there was a bit of wind. I actually threatened one guy after he reset his ****ing alarm for the 3rd time at 3am. I told him if he didn't disable his car alarm, I would disable it, and the car, permanently. They are mostly a waste of space anyway as nobody reacts to them any more. You are far better off to get a system that notifies you that your car is being stolen, but does so silently.

Are you looking at instant MPG or average MPG? The LS600h should be getting around 30Mpg(UK) (instant) at a constant 70Mph.

If you have sound (as in music/talking on the radio) then the amp is working fine. It does sound like something is disconnected behind the radio unit. Have you removed it to inspect the wiring back there? It's not difficult to remove.

You also have some Volume buttons on the steering wheel, behind on the left side. I assume that those don't work either? You didn't answer if you can get any sound from the radio or not. You may need to remove the head unit from the car to check all the connections. It may be that someone has modified the wiring. It is easy enough to do with several videos online showing how to take the radio out.

Wilkommen Christof Du schreibst viel besser Englisch als wir Deutsch 🤣 For the timing belt some people think it is 90,000 miles/108 Months (9 years) whichever happens last, but it is in fact whichever happens first, so your car should already be on it's third timing belt at 18 years old. We strongly recommend to replace the tensioners and the water pump when replacing the belt. Once done, you can forget about those for the next 9 years. For the radiator, it is more time sensitive than mileage sensitive, so replace it when you are doing the timing belt. The problem is internal corrosion that allows coolant to get into the ATF. The ATF cooler section is just a pipe that runs through the coolant in the bottom of the radiator. It's a good idea as it speeds up the warming of the ATF and controls the ATF temperature better, but they didn't make it sufficiently corrosion resistant. If the engine is cold when you swap the radiator, not much ATF will be lost from the cooler so no need to top it up. You will see how much comes out of the cooler and the hoses when you remove the radiator, so just add that much back if it is more than 20cl. If less than 20cl, then don't worry about it. On your audio problems, it could be a broken amplifier or a broken radio unit, or a broken connector between them. If you can turn the radio on and off, I assume that the head unit is working. What happens if you use the radio controls in the rear seat armrest? Do you get sound from the radio or is it always silent?

Could be a busted external wire or could be that there is a break in the wiring inside the speaker itself. When I had to replace my Sub, I took it apart afterwards and found that the wire had broken off where it goes into the voice-coil, so that Sub was never going to work again. Is your system the Mark Levinson? Any photos of the problem speaker? Have you removed the speaker from the car and inspected it? On my 2004 with Mark Levinson the front door speakers don't have a tweeter, only a 6.5" woofer. The front tweeter is in the dashboard. The rear door speakers have a 4" woofer and a piezo-electric tweeter and have a capacitor/resistor passive crossover built in. Most woofer/tweeter combos have a local passive crossover filter on the speaker itself (normally a capacitor and a resistor) that separates low/mid-frequency that goes to the woofer and high-frequency that goes to the tweeter. However, since the speakers only respond to certain frequency ranges, some cheaper systems don't bother and just wire the speakers in parallel. Subwoofer - 20Hz to 200Hz (8" to 18" coil speaker) Woofer - 200Hz to 2500Hz (3" to 12" coil speaker) Tweeter - 2500Hz to 20000Hz (3" or less piezo-electric or coil speaker)

Which works great until you miss that 3' high concrete bollard. I like my reversing camera and beepers. Both have saved me from expensive "oops" over the last 6 years. Of course, they can't fix stupid, like the idiot who walked behind my car last week when I had been in reverse gear for 4-5 secs and had carefully checked all around me before moving. Stupid dumb**** was doing his phone-zombie thing, but of course he then shouted at me accusing me of reversing into him. He didn't look so happy when I got out of the car and told him he was a 🤬ing waste of water and carbon. If it wasn't for the beepers and my reflexes he would have been a squishy mess getting blood all over my rear tyres.