BigBoomer

Perhaps consider a car-tent like these from MM? https://www.machinemart.co.uk/categories/?search=garage Just make sure to secure them to the ground as they WILL blow away in a storm. I recommend gaffer taping every joint once it's up and make sure that your anchors are bolted into concrete.

Find some local to you in your budget range and go test drive them. I did 6 years ago and of those I tested I preferred the one I bought, but I test drove LS400s, LS430s (pre-and post facelift) and LS460s (pre-facelift). Personally I found the electric power steering in the LS460 to be "numb" and I found the LS400 too floaty. The facelift LS430 was the sweet-spot for me with excellent comfort, quietness, but still fun in the twisties (for a 2 ton behemoth).

On modern engines the valve seats and corresponding part of the valve do wear slightly, but so does the cam and follower so the net effect is minimal change. The metallurgy of modern valves and seats is such that wear is good for the life of the vehicle and beyond. They just need regular clearance checks. On the LS430 the clearance should be checked every 60k miles but once it gets beyond that first check I'd be amazed if it needed any adjustments over the next 600k miles. One of my motorcycles has shim-under-bucket valves (like the LS430) and at 25k miles four of the 16 were close to the wear limit (all 4 exhaust), so were re-shimmed to the middle of the acceptable range. I ignored the 50k check so they were checked again at 75k miles and all valves were fractionally closer to the wear limit but still closer to the middle of the range. This is on an engine that does 10,500rpm and puts out 180Bhp from 1400cc so it is pretty highly tuned. Now on my 1986 motorcycle I had an issue where 2 of the exhaust valves "tuliped" at around 120k miles, but that was due to poor metal hardening from the factory and was a known issue. I didn't touch the valve seats as they were fine, I replaced the valves, lapped the valves into the seats and that engine is now at 200k miles and still goes like stink. That engine uses tappets (screw and locknut) adjustment for the valve clearances and needs to be checked every 10k miles mostly due to follower wear.

Aftermarket is going to be Pilkington or possibly that other site "oop-narth" that Malc mentioned on the LS400 rear screen topic. Otherwise you might have some luck searching Japanese sites, although the shipping cost is going to be substantial. I think you are probably going to have to bite the bullet and do it via your insurance. If you collect in person, there are a couple of breakers that will cut a screen out of an LS430 for you. They will not ship the screen though as the cost is silly and the risk of damage in transit is high. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114074273671 These are very low sales volume cars so the aftermarket is non-existant here in the UK. The USA has a decent aftermarket for the LS, but theirs are all LHD.

In that case it looks like a duff head unit, or else a connector isn't seated correctly. Time to get the radio out and check over all the connectors there.

Looks amazing. What was it with the 90s and "Ruched leather"? 🤣

The LS430 manual states 10 years or 90,000 miles, whichever comes sooner. However, I have only ever heard of one cambelt failure in an LS and that was a severely neglected LS430 in the USA with 180k miles on the original belt in Arizona (hot and dry!). Mine (2004) was first changed in April 2013 at 75000 miles. The car is now at 140k miles so I will be getting it done later this year as it is now 20 years old. That said, I inspected the belt a few months ago and it looked immaculate. No damaged teeth, no wear, no cracking, so I am not at all worried.

Not likely that the horn switch is the problem. Far more likely that the clock spring is the cause of the problem as they are a common point of failure for all the electrical stuff built into the steering wheel.

The TPMS battery life is mostly mileage related rather than age related. When the wheels are not turning the sensor is off and not using the battery. Since the sensors have long-life lithium batteries their lifespan is over 10 years if not used.

The LS400 "OBD2" is not standard OBD2 so mostly does not work with standard OBD2 scanners. This thread may help, especially Dan D's comment near the bottom.

I'm surprised I remembered this <LOL>

Why use something other than the manufacturers recommendation? The LS600 Owners manual recommends 0W20.

And at worst the scumbag will get a £300 fine and will continue driving uninsured. So many are now risking it as there are never any cops out and about so it's only if they get nabbed by ANPR or have an accident that it comes to light. I imagine that the van was insured under someone else's name (to get around ANPR detection) but the driver wasn't covered by that (or any other) insurance. I hope you get a decent offer and can buy it back and fix it up as a Cat N write off.

The fact that it switches on and off leads me to think it is something that only operates part time. It switches on and off too often for the suspension compressor and I believe that the Lexus air-con compressors are non-clutch type so not likely to be that either. A manifold leak would be constant but as Notamech stated above it could be the engine switching between manifold injectors and direct injectors. I think that will need a Lexus dealer to diagnose what may even be a normal sound for the LS600h.

Go test drive an LS430, LS460/600h. I found them to be just as comfy as the LS400 but with a more planted feel. I preferred the LS430 because it has better steering feel than the 460/600 but any of them can be thrown at the twisties with gusto and just eat it up. The LS460 engine is the most powerful, but for me the LS430 was the best overall package. The computerised air-suspension and Vehicle Stability Control in all of them is very good indeed. Of course, your passengers will be puking/screaming if you do throw it at the twisties as these are still 2-ton behemoths. On one of my test drives (LS460) the owner spent the latter part of the drive with a death grip on the passenger grab handle. 😱 I did ask him if it was OK before I flipped my head into "BANZAI" mode. 🤣

Given the number of "Not Connected" errors there I would suspect the rear fuse/relay box, also known as the "Luggage Room Junction Block". All of those items showing NCON are all in the boot. Those are also prone to water damage as it is in the floor of the boot on the left side under the carpet.

Use a mechanics stethoscope to isolate where the sound is coming from. Could be so many different things.

You also have to take into account that LS430 owners are mostly older and so may be deaf as a doorpost. 😁 I know my hearing is pretty good (recent tests) but I do have very little hearing at very high frequencies and reduced hearing at some lower frequencies in one ear. Too much of my yoof spent tuning mopeds in a closed garage and too much time spent at Heavy Metal concerts If you are only hearing the noise at around 900rpm, then it sounds like something is resonating at that frequency and the most likely culprit for that would be the new silencers.

Can't hear a thing in the interior video. Exhaust sounds normal in the exterior video. Are you sure it's the engine/exhaust humming and not the ventilation or radio or something else?

Yup. 32psi all around. I use my garage door and masking tape to check mine. If you don't have one that is suitable, a wall in a carpark is good enough. Take a tape measure and masking tape. Alternatively, take it to Halfords or any other Autocentre and they can check it for you with a machine. Of course, that costs money 😁

I set/check my headlights using this description. https://www.championautoparts.com/en-gb/news/how-to-check-headlights.html If they are correct w.r.t. all of that then you are not blinding oncoming traffic. I have seen a couple of LS430s that had the 55W HIDs fitted and they are simply too bright and will get oncoming motorists flashing you.

Some blades have a clip down cover that covers the U shaped tip of the arm and you do need to lift the cover before you can slide the blade off the arm. It does require a fair bit of force to get the blade out of the U which is why Steve suggested to put a towel under the blade to protect the windscreen BEFORE you remove the blade. The 460/600 and the 430 have wipers that hide behind the bonnet when not in use for better aerodynamics, and that does make them harder to change due to not being able to raise them fully.

Nice Difficult to judge via photos, but mine has colour code 8P8 (Dark Blue Pearl, or Blue Onyx Metallic). I do like dark blue cars but have to admit I was hoping to find a decent one in the dark Purple (3P2, Black Cherry Pearl) when I was looking in 2018. The LS400 I followed for a couple of miles looked well maintained and loved.

Spotted - dark blue P-Reg LS400 on Sunday 4th Feb, Essex Regiment Way/A131. I followed you in my dark blue LS430 from the services/McDs to the Braintree A131 roundabout. 😁 Nice looking LS400

That hole isn't anywhere near big enough for RamAir for a 4 litre engine. 🤣 We discussed this already back in 2019. Personally, I think it was the optional Laser Cruise Control sensor as the hole is in the same position on the early LS430s with Laser Cruise. From the LS Wikipedia page(https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lexus_LS): "In August 1997, the first production laser adaptive cruise control on a Toyota vehicle was introduced on the Celsior version (Japan only).[83][84] It controlled speed only through throttle control and downshifting, but did not apply the brakes.[85] Because of laser technology limitations, it deactivated in bad weather."