AFlex

Hi Guys I finally got round to doing my lambda sensors the other day (as well as replacing spark plugs and PCV valve). Managed to squeeze it in just in time before my MOT as I'm pretty sure it could have failed the emissions test otherwise (they said I was just on the edge last time...) I am sure I saved myself a pretty penny compared with getting the dealer to replace all of these. Finding the right sensors was an absolute nightmare. I spent hours researching it, only to realise that the sensors I ordered were only supposed to be for 2010 and onwards even though my car is a 2007!! It turns out all the sensors seem to be interchangeable from the different model years. The main thing I would recommend is that you use high quality replacement parts - I found the Densos to be decent value whilst providing OE quality. (I managed to time my purchase to coincide with those 20% vouchers that eBay were sending out - a real winner!) The main thing to watch for in terms of compatibility is that you get the appropriate length of cable for your car - in my case the 2010 ones I ordered were longer than the 2007 so it didn't matter (see attached photo). I don't know why Toyota do this - they randomly change parts from year to year and state that they only work on the newer model when actually they seem to be interchangeable! I am sure the same applies with the PCV valve - It's really not that complicated a part so I don't see how it could only work on one model year and not another! By the way I will post some pictures and a pseudo DIY for this to help others as it was a real b***h of a job!!!!

Also the other factor that I think plagues ALL manual transmissions nowadays is rev hang. (Not just a Lexus problem) This is very noticeable in the IS250 manual - quickly press the accelerator immediately after starting the engine - notice how the revs immediately rise and fall. Now wait approx 10 seconds and do the same again - notice how the revs take a long time to fall after each press of the accelerator. This makes it very hard rev match if you are in a hurry. My personal way around this is to double de-clutch which slightly reduces the problem. If I keep my IS250 for much longer I will invest in an RR racing engine remap which I think may help with this. (I'm also considering a 3GR engine swap as an upgrade to do concurrently).

Did you do the oil change as DIY or did you get dealer to do it? I am a bit wary to get an Indy dealer to do it because apparently it involves refilling several times to flush all the old oil out - it's not a simple drain and refill like the engine oil... I think this video explained it well from memory...

I have mine wired into the rear view mirror. I can't remember which wires i tapped into but there was a guide (I think on one of the US forums?) IMO it's way simpler than the other solutions. I basically got one of these usb cigarette lighter power adapters, I soldered two wires onto it (positive and negative) and then pushed the exposed ends of those wires into the connection for the mirror. It get's 12V perfectly all the time that the ignition is on and absolutely no messy cabling. Just make sure your wires aren't too long.

Sorry, had various personal and family medical nightmares therefore no time to post. But just following up in case anyone has the same problem. THanks all for the tips/suggestions. James' answer was the winning solution! A good length pole will easily reach the back seat door locks through the ski hatch. Good old fashioned brute force. I actually used a £2.99 cleaning mop from B&M 🙂 I didn't try the rear lights solution because, come to think of it, I think the power circuit would still be OC - since i had the battery disconnected? I think this trick only works if your battery is flat - not purposely disconnected. Moral of the story is double check that the physical lock still works when you're done changing your door actuators!

Thanks Allan that sounds like a fantastic idea! I can only imagine that I screwed up fitting the lock actuators when the door locks failed a couple of years back. Fortunately I live in Greater London so don't need the car for my commute, so I have a bit of time to figure this one out Do you remember what you were searching for when you found the solution of connecting the battery to the rear lights?

Hi, Bit of a schoolboy error here! Halfway through replacing my alternator, I had to pop out to the shops. My battery was disconnected, so I locked the car from the inside using the internal door locks and closed the bonnet. Checked all doors were locked and went on my way. Got back and did the usual procedure for taking the physical lock cover off the driver's door. Put the physical key in the lock. Turned anticlockwise... nothing happens. Turned clockwise... nothing happens. Physical lock on the boot still opens as normal - but on the drivers door it just wont open! I am sure I have used this key to open the door manually before, but I'm guessing the difference is that my battery is now disconnected and the physical key relies on electrical power somehow? Any ideas? Am i going to have to break the window to get in?

Interestingly i think the new 3IS has a true dual set up from the exhaust manifold down to the back box. Don't think it would retrofit onto the 2IS though as there wouldn't be sufficient space under the car. In answer to the OP's question - I have the Magnaflow stainless steel exhaust on my car and I find it to be a good combination of noise when you want it without too much drone. It also looks the part in stainless steel, nicely visible from the rear. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lexus-IS250-2-5L-2005-2013-Magnaflow-Performance-Axle-Back-Exhaust-16764/254170959908?hash=item3b2dc51024:g:gMkAAOSwjq9bxe6P Fortunately I bought it before Brexit so it was only about £600 delivered from the US! Perhaps you can find one second hand somewhere.

I had clutch and flywheel done at Lexus Bristol 1.5 years back and it cost c.1300 although their original quote was nearer 1500

I've got EBC redstuff brake pads at the moment (on brembo discs) They're some sort of ceramic compound and generate less dust. The dust also seems to be a lighter colour so not as noticeable when it does build up. Would really recommend these on both noise and dust fronts. I've got EBC redstuff at the moment and brembo discs They're some sort of ceramic compound and generate less dust. The dust also seems to be a lighter colour so not as noticeable when it does build up. Would really recommend these on both noise and dust fronts.

Thanks for the reply. I'm finding other sites with more part numbers still: https://www.lexuspartsnow.com/oem-lexus-alternator.html?Make=Lexus&Model=IS250&Year=2008&Submodel=&Filter=() 27060-31060 27060-31061 27060-31062 Lexus Parts Direct doesnt seem to differentiate between 250 and 220D, and lists it as 27060-26030: https://www.lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/parts/lexus-is/lexus-is-phase-2-alternator/ What a minefield!

Hi All, Been some months since I've been on this forum. Been very busy and the list of DIY jobs for my IS250 has just been stacking up. Can't put this particular job off any longer though - my alternator is making a very bad whine noise and it smells like burnt electronics when I get out of the car. I've been looking for a new Denso replacement online and I can see that the IS220 uses the Denso DAN1013 model, which also has the Toyota model number 27060-26030 which outputs 130Amps: https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/denso-822303.html However everywhere selling it online is listing it as being specifically for the IS220D and not for the IS250. Has anyone on here changed the alternator for the IS250 recently and could you tell me whether the alternator is the same on both cars? Thanks!

I've got the same problem as the OP and tried the sprays. helps mask the smell for a few days but definitely not a lasting solution. I've heard that the ultrasonic cleaning (as offered by VAG dealers) works a dream but not found anywhere that does it for Lexus? You can actually buy the servicing system yourself but it's a bit of an outlay unless you've got several motors in your garage! https://www.wynns.eu/product/airco-clean-2/

@Johnatg - are these SGS engineering struts the same ones that you recommend? I've decided it's time i replaced my struts as the boot's been ridiculously heavy for months now But I remember reading on another forum that the OEMs are best and some of the aftermarket ones are not well made? Just wondering whether anyone on here has experienced both and so can offer a like for like comparison? Cheers guys!

Hi Sopel I've got an IS250 like you (2007 model) and I went for the Magnaflow stainless steel exhaust imported from USA it cost around £700 total including import charges. Just look for one of the ebay sellers who accepts offers and then you can bid it down to a reasonable price. They will probably be keen to get rid of the stock seeing as I can't imagine they would sell that many these days... It's got a good sound although just a little too raspy for my liking. Will see if I can put some mufflers in there somewhere to reduce the rasp. By the way, in terms of performance it's definitely noticeable. The good news is you can feel the car open up more in the top RPM range as there's less airflow restriction. The bad news is that you get reduced back pressure as a result and so it feels quite a bit less torquey when you are below 3K RPM. hope this helps! AFlex