Redefined

Lets just call all them other pics, bonus pics!

As quickly as I can (will aim for 10 mins, so apologies if it appears rushed), today was brake refurrb day. Mainly just the brake pads for which there has been brake shake for a while. But now the bushes are done and... Whatever!!

Firstly (and apologies to whomsoever put it there) the guide for LS430 brake pad replacement is all wrong on the forum. It refers to standard 2 piston calipers which have 2 pistons one the one side and a carrier/fixed mount on the other. Ours are much more advanced (and easier to work with) than that with the 4 pistons. 2 each opposing each other.

Don't even need to remove the cakiprr which is usually the hardest/toughest job. Especially with the massive bolts we have holding em in. Now... Lets get to it.

Firstly, and most obviously, get the car up safely on some axle stands. Don't forget to loosen the wheel bolts first or it'll be come hard once up. I'm just using the Halfords ones on either side after lifting it from the cross member with my Halfords Advanced Trolley jack.

Wheel off and you need to rotate the steering the opposite way to this. We need to get a birdseye view of the top of the pads which are easy to view, once in position.

Undo the brake reservoir and make sure itsnot been topped up whilst the pads have been wearing down. Basically once the pistons are reset, the fluid will come back into correct range. In my case I had to remove a bit as I'd done some bleeding earlier in the month/week.

We need access to the pads. So pushing that central shim in whilst we 'poke' the little raining rod out. From the outside in and a philips screwdriver worked well for me. Don't forget to remove the safety pin (pic below) out of that retaining rod before trying to pry it out.

This.. Keep it safe and don't brake it. Don't forget to pop it back in at the end after having pushed back the rod.

Hopefully a clearer view here of what's happening. I was working on the side with the wear indicator. That needs prying out carefully aswell from the pad. Careful not to snap it, and the little double clip around the wear indicator tubing (left of my hand) can just be pushed up out the way. It sits over that rod, so won't budge until youve pried out the (aforementioned) retaining rod. Try to keep an eye on orientation of pads, but from what I could see there's no difference for left or right (ie, not symmetrical).

This is after I've cleaned the shim. Be careful and have some brake cleaner to hand. Basically, you're doing the job yourself, so no excuse to not do some thorough cleaning. You'll need both a wire brush, small file as well as a large one. Wire brush shouldn't really go inside the caliper body as you might rip the piston seals! But good cleaning is the secret to reduced/zero brakeshake. Not what alot of fitters seem to think, that we should use more copper paste/brake grease. It slowly causes more stiction over time and the Toyota online manual (YT) nor Car Care Nut condone using grease/copper slip on the brake edges. Pity most mechanics (well, 'fitters') don't know this simple thing!!

Now you've been at it therapeutically. Slightly stressed at removing the wear indicator thing from inside the brake pad edge, but you did it (as you can see, I broke mine slightly as there was so much dry/stuck dust). Getting the pads out is probably the hardest thing. Them onl pads are going anyway, so you could use them to push a flat head (or something wider than a flat head but strong/metal) between the pad braking surface and the rotor surface. DO NOT put anything behind the pad and against the piston rubbers directly. These are delicate and need to be treated with love.

Not sure why I'm pointing my philips at the rubber boots of the piston. Maybe to show that I've managed to free the pads and am working the pistons (with the foot pedal) out and in. Remember, you're doing it yourself and gaffer isn't on your case. Take the time to work them pistons so they can get a bit of lubrication from the brake fluid.

Important point here... Only work the brake pedal whilst the pads are still insitu. Or else you might pop a piston, have brake fluid everywhere and hate me. I bear no blame for your stupidity and hence why I'm not writing an official guide... Just how I do it!!

oh, there's the little clip that retains the wear indicator inside the pad itself. What a pest!!

Most of the rest was lots of grinding. I ground away lots of baked on brake dust as well as lots of rust from the edges (inner and outer) of the rotor. Couldn't find the bits for my dremel so just used the large file. It's one of those jobs that doesn't really get done by alot of mechanics cos time's money and most bosses (IMO) aren't really kind enough to allow the worker/mechanic enough time for a thorough job.

Both pads back in, check rotor for stiction after pressing the brakes(some light stiction is normal as it's only supposed to be a fraction of a mm the pads need away from the rotor). Everything nice and clean. Grease applied (ONLY) to behind the pad and where the shims sit over the pad. This reduces rattle as the pads wear and more gap is created (courtesy Car Care Nut).

One thing to note here... Do make sure the pads are able to move freely, left and right. If not then you've not cleaned the inside of the caliper housing properly. Look for any other hidden rust of old brake dust. Do this before you starting working the brake pedal to check for good movement etc.

Rod, shim, safety pin, wear indicator piece (in my case only one side of the car) all back in place. Check (actually keep an eye on this) the brake fluid hasn't overlfowed at the reservoir - it's corrosive so make sure you denature it with water if it touches any paint... or your hands - make sure you use plenty of brake cleaner to ensure there's no grease or anything on the rotor (and obviously you weren't that silly to get any grease on the pads).

Everything back together, wheels on (after doing other side... you must do both sides or else uneven braking force WILL cause brake judder) and press the brakes to get em back to normal operation. Go for a safety test drive and go have a cuppa coffee (obviously you dropped the car down carefully).

Oh... The Timing Belt for which I'm already saving up. Just ends up getting spent though 😆

Next jobs...

1. Front brake pads (lots of vibration on braking and they're totally worn IMO). Got some originals off eBay for £39 which should be here soon.

2. ATF oil of which (after watching Car Care Nut) we now know there's meaning behind the madness of only being able to flush a bit at a time. The rest of the previous/remainder helps with it's tiny shards to keep the gear box sealed (or what-not, he explains it alot better but I now finally understand). So no need to buy the full amount and do lots of flushes a few days apart.

3. Nothing I suppose... Maybe just drive it and it really could do with a wash. Alloy-wheel-want has ended taking a back seat (for now). Next service in 5000 miles!!

On 10/29/2022 at 10:05 AM, Malc1 said:

pulleys and waterpump too whilst you're in there ......  it's a monster of a job timewise for sure

 

I suspect the window delamination might be solved with replacements from somewhere 

you  ...........  and me if I was in your situation eh !

Best wishes

 

Malc

Just got back with the car from Dave at Lex Tec. What a lovely chap... Bit expensive, but you get what you pay for. Both side rear bushings now sorted and diff oil renewed.

He said the diff oil looked black so I made a good choice getting him to do it. Especially since sometimes (IME) them bolt heads can become a but rounded.

Spoke to him about getting my own parts for future work and he's happy with that (on the basis it's original Lex/Toyota parts). Timing belt he suggested I just need to order the belt and pump, so a good result.

Said that they used to change as a kit but generally everything remains fine. Under the car there's some light leaking which I'd askedhim to comment on. Cam cover gaskets which he said isn't an issue (soling as I'm happy living with the smell when it gets worse).

Lastly, yesterday me and my 8 year old dropped it off. Then an 11 mile walk to Rotherham and the train back. Today I went via cycle and the 36 mile journey, my app reported as having saved 12.6kg of CO2.

All in all, I think I'm gonna stick with him as my main mechanic (with minor servicing and other odd jobs myself). The main selling point was his lovely attitude as well as attention to detail (which is well documented). But, the cherry on top is that I get to have a lovely walk one day and a bike ride on the other (whichever way round it works out).

Looks v good that. Thanks for the pic 😊

Need a smack in the gob is what they (the dealership) need @Illogan Very sorry to hear such a story with only a £150 reduction. Thats hardly petrol money for a decent round trip. 

Well done Steve and thanks for sharing. Though I've never bought off the approved used scheme and the closest I got to buying from a main dealer was a lovely Subaru Legacy Spec B. It was a trade sale and the price reflected that (and I knew of all the marks to the body etc etc before going down).

I agree though, that selling a 32k car surely they should have had the decency/Lex respect (if there's still such a thing) to sort the repair for you. Thanks for sharing your lovely work though and it appears you'll be doing a much more thorough job than they'd probably have done!

By Car Care Nut, who else 😄. Really love this guy and the attention to detail as well as sharing thw deep insights withthw viewers is amazing. Usually specialists don't actually tell you everything (IMO) but this chap is amazing...

He might even tear down thw transmission on a later vid if there's enough interest. Anyway, back to thw vid!! Enjoy...

Definitely green for planet not send em to the scrappers and keeping em running. Well said Malc.

Not gonna enter into the suspension discussion Malc 😆 (to keep the thread pure from it) but will on the rake adjust. Mine is broken after some minor repairs. At least it still pulls out/in.

Nice driving (would expect nothing less from someone of your caliber 😊). Oh, rare but cheapy version - that'll be mine 😉 

On 8/2/2023 at 12:37 PM, Razor61 said:

So it’s the rubber insulator/concertina protector for the standard shock absorbers in the screen shot below then?
This doesn’t apply to the air suspension shocks/struts for the LS430, the rubber protection is all part of the shock/strut. Or have I got it wrong?

Oh... and can't we just have a simple LS430 appreciation discussion without bringing in the suspension. Just pretend it's not there on at least one thread (this one). 🫣

@BigBoomer hit it (the nail off course and not the car, hopefully) on the head. That, "to you (ls400) be yours the best and me (LS430) be mine the best". Having said that, the LS430 is obviously the best. I have evidence...

Now before anyone gets (more) upset. I'll just say two things. Firstly, I doubt you could parralel park an LS400 like that. Secondly, ain't them LS400 just so ugly 😆

I mean, my mate Sarwar at the the Auto Factors/Uddersfield had his LS400 for almost 10 years. I'd always drive/cycle past wondering the two things. Firstly, how the frig does some so small drive such a 'great/big' car. Secondly how does he afford the petrol on his wages when I'm struggling with my 2.0, (then 2.4 and maybe even the 3.0). Thirdly (I know... trying to be respectable) and most importantly... How'd one drive such an ugly looking car 😆

Obviously I thought similar about the LS430, but I find with all cars. Once bought/owned, the more you squint at em, the more they grow on you (cycle commuter at heart)... Anyway, lovely cars and I also got the LS430 after CCN making that vid.

I was just so glad he never chose the 400 as I could'nae lived wi' maa'self looking at that ugly thing (sorry again 😆) and it'd never parralel park like the 430 (did I say that already!!).

Frigging window delam!!!

Thanks Malc. I just checked the quote from LT. £250 labour; £57 timing belt; £170 water pump; £7 sundries + vat on everything... £525 total(ish) without VAT. Does seem reasonable when you say it like that. Not trying to skimp (I know no one said/thought that) cos I don't agree with specialist pricing but cos Idhave to save up again... Front bushings & labour are costing that £550 or so next week, but it'll be worth just having the car (hopefully) commented on by them (Lex Tec).

To be fair, the bushings would've probably been ok on the advisory but I like to get things sorted asap. At least brakes can be done myself so hopefully save some decent cash there! 😄

Oh, and some checking around for pads and it seems they at GSF have some Brembos on at £56 a set. Might not need to import from PartsOUQ afterall!!

Decisions, decisions. Does one get some Akibono pads with a $32 timing belt imported with $44 postage. Then have it done by a local (hopefully) competent mechanic who might source a water pump himself. Or go to the local stealerships and pay almost £700 or more!!

Feel free to comment as it's a steessful decision. Though in essence it's a Toyota and one of the easiest in the world to work on... So shouldn't need to pay them extortionate, 'we are specialist mechanics so you must leave the car overnight with your wallet' prices...

Busy day today. I'll try to only share pics of whats most important, so as not to bore anyone!!

First up, the engine oil. Thankfully after checking up the numbers in the manual it was only 4.6L (with filter change, but only 4.3L without). Thankfully (well, I usually say Alhamdulillah [sorry]) I had a spare filter as well as them 5L lying about - like you do.

Car jacked up (carefully) with some pics taken to try and do an 'How To', but I'll not bore anyone or risk their safety 😊. Numbers counted of whats come out. Only 3.5L and maybe 300ml spillage. Tiny heartache before checking the manual which states their happy to have 1L loss every 600 miles of driving. Phew, perimyocarditis (or takotsubo syndrome) averted. New oil and filter sorted.

Spun the wheels a few times and smiled at the condition of the bearings. But noted the amount of rusting to the disc outer. Could it be the cause of the slight brake shake!! Hmmm....

Lots of scraping, wire brushing and disc-brake cleaner(ing) later, I frowned at the brake fluid. Oh, go on then... One side that was spinning nicely bled. £1 or a few quid earned for the little man (8 year old, for pressing the brakes on command). Other side slightly seized... Could it be the cause of the shakes!!

Best check out the calipers/pads. Big nut braker pulled out, but little amount of force needed (thanks previous excellent mechanic who used the anti seize in these MASSIVE bolts). Caliper pulled off, little man summoned again for some brakes pressing. Measurements of pads and discs taken...

Disc 0.6mm past the wear limit (as per manual) and pads only 2mm each side left. Siezure taken care of (of the twin pistons) and bleeding complete. Thanks young man, you just earned yourself a fiver (he capped it at that)!!!

Went masjid for prayers... Comes back, checks brakes before taking off the tripod stands. Oh dear... did I just get an 8 year old to help with brake bleeding, pedal pressing... Pedal feels a little mushy. Summons 12 year old (daughter), "please lovely". She takes the bate and we bleed both sides again.

Still slightly squishy but maybe it's in my head!! Probably got a snippet of air in when removing the dirty fluid from the reservoir. Everything back together, goes for eve/night prayers and takes the car. For a test drive off course...

Lightly driving turns to rampage on the mad-mile. Lots of acceleration and hardcore braking. More so on the downhill and then fof to my mates to tell him the good news (didn't tell him about my OCD of thinking I'd squished the brakes as that was all gone). No more brake-shake so just the front, rear  bushings to do at Lex-Tec next week.

Most importantly, parks it outside the house with a lovely reverse, (somewhere) in between those that feel they needs 3 (I think 4 now!!!) cars in the household!! In the words of (Toyota specialist) Car Care Nut, "life is good".

March the 20th and over 7000 miles since I did the engine oil and filter. Bloomin thing, thankfully straightforward to do and I have my lovely Advanced Halfords heavy duty trolley jack. Been dragging the feet a little but this beautiful man who loves our cars and hopefully us - has reminded me.

Anyway, I'm off to the shed to grab 10L of oil (only need about 6, but will check the book before doing) and a filter. 3 months and 7000 miles done 🤪... Car Care Nut says if I wanna make it last 300k miles then it should be 5k miles intervals, unless doing 400 miles per day!!

I'm not gonna argue with him and will see about doing the coolant very soon too. Some more good news - aside from paying through the teeth to have my front rear asm bushes done at LexTec (you get what you pay for) - I think I may have found a quality mechanic locally. Just need someone with some attention to detail and self respect in their work. So hopefully won't cost me the (almost) dealer labour prices and dealer parts...

😊 Until next time... Keep smiling and drive safe!!

Right then. Firstly, some good reviews for Paul from Lexus Parts in Rossendale or thereabouts. Went and got the two windows off him. Front that was smashed and got the rear that's also discoloured with the condensation issue. Within a day or 2 the rear window was having the steam coming through (but not as bad as the ones I'd replaced).

Text Paul who called me straight back. Said he'd get me a second window and I waited for the call back. 2 days later and enquiring as to if he'd found me a better rear window: in about 10 minutws the refund for the rear window was back in my account. Happy days (Alhamdulillah is what I said) and thanks very much Paul - I'll be back.

Now, the task at hand...

This is indeed very helpful, thanks @michael Vercell I'm about 40 miles away and always looking for a competent mechanic with good quality control. I'll be in touch with that there garage sooner or later...

Previously I've done two sets of headlights on my cars. One I used a kit from Halfords (probably Maguires or similar) and it seemed an ok job and the clearcoat was easy to get on. Seemed to simple and straightforward, but worked well and I had clear lenses.

The other set (actually maybe the third set as I probably made the first set last across 2 cars 😆) I had done professionally by someone I met at a Subaru Garage in Bradford. Came to my street the week after and spent a good 2 hours cleaning/polishing and coating. Again, results were amazing and I've been looking for a similar local business (sadly, lost his number/details) to do the Ls430 as the headlights look a bit dull.

Other than not being able to find a local specialist, I've also been reading that the clearcoat applied apparently only lasts for about a year. This, I've also read on the Maguires kit at Halfords. Unfortunately I didn't own the previous cars for longer than 3 years and I'm perplexed at what method do I take!

Specialist service outside my door in 2019 was about £80. So I imagine it'll now be closer to around £150 (which might answer my Q of just doing it myself). Thoughts/comments welcomed please...

Just reread the Amayama pricing Razor. Wow I'll just 😆 cos otherwise I'd 😢

Here's the link if anyone has the press to squeeze them in and a garage to take everything apart and take their time https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/lexus/ls430/3-sedan-left-xf30-2003-r-3476/transmission-and-chassis-2/front-axle-arm-steering-knuckle-151

@Razor61 that fills me with smiles. Maybe they (Lex-Tec order direct from Amayama or https://partsouq.com/

Hopefully one more job done in my mission to return the lovelt thing to it's original glory. @Malc1 I think I saw Car Care Nut on his YT channel explaining why these parts go sooner than the lighter equivalents of our cars. He talked about the barge effect on the suspension components. Even though it's just an advisory, I'm hoping it'll explain the light brake shake that happens when breaking downhill at speed.

Next jobs can then be brakework (if the suspension arms don't sort it) which I can do myself and save money. Could try and attempt them myself but probably above my faff threshold rating. Come to think of it, I checked the invoice and it states 'front suspension arm rear bushes £161 +vat (each). So I obviously misunderstood when told by the admin lady that it would be the full wishbones/lower arms.

Oh well, best get enough shifts in to pay the bills!! Hopefully (maybe) Dave might comment on the overall condition of the rest of the car).

£250 labour both sides (+vat) in case anyone wodering 🫣

Thanks Malc and Supafly. Wouldn't let me edit for some reason. Maybe cos I donthave enough post-count. Anyway, thankfully after calling Lexus Leeds but no reply I've kinda managed to patch things up with Lex-Tec and am booked in for next month for some much needed front suspension arms rear bushings.

Price from Lexus for the genuine parts (which is all that Lex Tec use and it makes sense) is, wait for it.... £387.60 for both sides. I know there is a way of squeezing out the old and popping in the new but seems Dave prefers to just change the full triangle-arm thingy.

Hopefully they'll be happy with my custom and allow me to come back. Oh how times have changed for a bit of quality work these days 😆

Nope. My fault. The threaddid start discussing a hybrid. I just like to shout about my 35 - 38mpg whenever I get a chance. Such lovely cars these Lexi' (is that the plural).