Redefined

Oh... The lovely people at SGS engineering to whom I sent the bonnet struts a couple of weeks ago have regassed em. Cost to me for both plus delivery back to me is a handsome £30.92. Just paid up today so they'll go back on soon enough.

Also bagged myself a Saris Bones bike rack (hard to get roof racks and the towball specialist told me they don't really make towbars for this mini limo. Makes sense, but I suppose some day I can get a Sea Sucker to sit with the bikes o the roof. If anyone seems my Saris Bones rack with a bike or two on, I'm  sorry!!

Now then... Little niggle of the auto gear box not doing the hill hold very well and sometimes slips after multiple seconds. Hopefully that'll get sorted after doing a few flushes of the ATF fluid, getting any metal scrapings that might have gathered out.

Also the rear aluminium deflector between the exhaust and body is a bit loose on one side (the part under the nut corroded away). So will try and pop a washer under there and stop the vibrations at some point.

But what's excited me the most is seeing that CCN on his YT channel has  bought a similar car with low mileage and is doing a full overhaul. Should learn a thing or two 😊

Oh... and just to add, the New Zealand guy in his vid suggested to stay away from copper paste due to the risk of cracking at the aluminium block. There was another paste he mentioned but I just did the job without any anti sieze. Torque recommendations in the manual are 18nm which isn't too tight at all (once contact made of plug face to engine hole facing, about an extra quarter of a turn. Using anti seize compound would just make you got an extra half a turn or so.

Hi Malc and thanks. Nope, technically just a tiny job and I'd imagine in the workshop it would probably only be allowed about 2 to 3 hours max for the plugs. On the Subaru opposed 6 cylinder (H6) engine it was definitely a more tedious job though the holes to get to the plugs weren't as deep, so less chamce of losing a plug socket or extension piece down there.

Because the 2 plugs closest to the windscreen were so tight to get to, alot of mechanics would just leave doing them (witnessed this when pulling them out on more than 1 H6 in my ownership). So, 2 to 3 hours for the plugs and 10 minutes for cleaning the throttle body and 5 mins for taking off the struts.

Probably saved myself about £140 in labour maybe - or maybe more from someone who's known to be an articulate Lex specialist. Just be sure to get the correct plugs (ILf6rt11 if I recall correctly and the same ones were what came out) and protect ourselves from any cheaper copied knock-offs. Oh... and it took me about 4 - 5 hours but I have organisational difficulties with my (diagnosed) dyslexia and therefore always take things a bit more steady.

Thankfully only lost one half of a plastic screw!

In as little words as poss. Did the spark plugs and whilst in there, I did a quick google to find the throttle body isn't a complex relearn procedure. Just need to update the service book.

References used were everyones favourite Lexus dealer/mech Car Care Nut and this here ozzy type chap:

Firstly the spark plugs as the throttle body is straight forward. Just be sure to use a lint free cloth or at least something that doesn't shed fibres. Try to get a dedicated throttle body cleaner as, even though you can use a carburettor cleaner it's slightly more abrasive and not as good for the sheen on the throttle body inners apparently. Less is more.

Tools used, in order of importance:

1. Flex head ratchet - I got a Milwaukee from Toolden and I can't stress quality tools really speak for themselves. This has a locking mechanism but even without locking the head it wasn't a flimsy head.

2. socket set of which I mainly used the 10mm from the Teng ratchet set.

3. Extension pieces for the ratchet. I had 2 shorts and one long. This is probably the golden egg when it comes to changing plugs, especially with these deep engines with slightly poor access. Much easier to access than my 3.0 Subaru though, but the key to a successful change is to ensure you work the extensions up, adding one at a time without losing anything inside the cylinder head!

4. Various screwdrivers for removing jubilees and other plastic fasteners. I mainly use the philips head.

5. Plug socket of which I had 2. One of which I used the inside rubber gripper to make my yellow hosepipe plug grabber. Using without this and sometimes working the socket extensions up with the spark plug socket tat the end - you run risk of losing the plug socket inside the cylinder head. As you can see I upgraded my hospipe for the V8 as the bore holes are just so deep!

Apologies if I'm using too much MB of data. Let me know and if there's enough need/interest I'll try and (tediously) downsize the pics (sorry).

After undoing the Battery negative wire and taking various bits off the sides for access (see the NZ vid) I noted how hard it was to take off the air box. He made it look easy whereas maybe mine hadn't been removed for 20 years! Instead of continuing with the 'quick but actually long' method of shortcutting, I eventually took the airbox cover off (if you don't know what that is then maybe you ought to leave plugs to the garage as it can go from ok to bad to worse very quickly) but didn't need to remove the filter/bottom half. Just be sure to cover the filter or shake it clean after working.

This intake pipe (I think it's what it's called) was a pain to get off at the throttle body. It has an extra rubber gasket over the pipe bore and it fits together like a bit of a simple jigsaw. I slowly pried it off but be careful. For next time I'll probably have a spare rubber gasket as this might not last.

Remember to undo the two rubber pipes and 2 electric connections. Be careful to not rip the pipes or crack the plastice sleeves on the connectors. Then once access is sorted it was just a matter of working my way down the plugs. Thankfully the leads weren't at risk of getting mixed up, but I still just tried to do one at a time.

Very, very careful here whilst undoing the electric connectors going to the coil packs (over the plugs). I used the 'squeeze (the tab) and pry carefully with a screwdriver' method. When reattaching here after completing the job, you should hear a firm click.

I did the drivers side first then the near-side. One at a time and assessing the plugs as I went.

I didn't need the bendy adaptor and did try to get away without using the flex head ratchet. But had to resort to using it on two of the tight junctions (actuall 3).

Next I cleaned the throttle body and put it all back together. It's now purring like a little beast that she is. To finish the job, I removed the struts from the bonnet and will try and send for regassing at SGS. Hopefully won't need to support the bonnet in future with wooden batons!

Oh, I never realised during the middle of the job that a coil pack or two were cracked. This was one fo the final ones I did, so wrapped it in electrical tape. Hope someone can benefit from this in future!!

Yes agreed @Tinonline you can't whack a bit of OEM at such low prices including the discs. I was just saying that the EBC discs is what sorted me on the previous car on which I did a bit of OEM aswell from JapCarParts 😊

*If I don't laugh, I'd cry. I even took the same brakes across from one to the next to continue managing the problem. Then to a third car after the problem had been cured...

I do about 8000 miles in a few months of motorway. Been doing so for the past 5 years or so. Had thw dreaded brake shake on various 3L Subaru Legacies of which I had various theories thrown at me. Had em skimmed, replaced, calipers refurbed and also plenty of different discs tried.

To cut a long story short, my shake would usually come back after about 1k miles which I completed in a week or few. Finally hot rid of the problem with the ebc discs with dimples. Think partly i was causing them to overheat by rallying it around a bit much (sorry).

I have the shakes on the current car and it's definitely coming from the front. They're definitely not siezed calipers as they (pistons) move freely and the wheels also spin freely when jacked up. I'm probably gonna go for some EBC but the ones with dimples are expensive on for the Lexus.

For the record I found Bosch and that cheap German brand (I'll find the name) were both as rubbish as one another. As were the ewe or rwe (or something with 3 letters and spunds like an American drag race car)... My problem lasted about 3 years or 4 😆

Very sad to hear this. He also encouraged me many moons ago to go ahead and get my Lexus. Thanks for sharing the pic of him...

After much deliberation (on when it would be warm enough to do it) and dragging my feet, I finally got (made) the time to quickly do another oil/filter change. 8000 miles since November meant it was all generally relaxed motorway miles but still, I was going into the red.

Jacked the beauty up and drained as much oil out but dropping it to different angles. Measured what had come out and got a figure of about 4.4L which was heartening as it's 4.6 that goes back in. Am certain there must've been a good portion of that 200ml deficit stuck to the drain pans and inside the filter.

Then drove it lovingly to work. Felt smoother but that's probably the placebo. Oil that came out was fairly black so it certainly was overdue. Looks like I'll have to get myself used to 4 monthly oil changes and start using half-boxes in the history book for recording.

Ordered 8 spark plugs and sure I'll also grab some ATF fluid later this work to get that flushed too....

Highlight of the job being when I couldn't find my 1L measuring jug. Took the one from the kitchen cupboard and measured up 4.6L precisely. Just after all that when finding where to store it til next time, I found it. Right there in my toolbox... Best not tell the missus as it's probably something to do with baking is the one I 'stole' (mistakenly).

Malc, I noticed that too in the description of minor. Yes, I'm indeed still on target hopefully to get that done at some point this year with Lex-Tec Sheffield. At least something has been done on it I guess and I can't imagine how much this minor job would cost now with Lexus... Nor do I intend to find out.

Now then, I've done 5500 miles on it since November so I guess I'd better get some more oil in it (renewed I mean). But more importantly and heart warmingly, Lexus (Sheffield or Leeds) explained that I could find all/any service work done by them on the Lexus account. Logged in and this is what I got 🙂

I imagine there has been work from Lexus since it was new but probably not on the system as it was probably all paper!

Other than that (I think) I've figured out that my 2 key fobs that only work on radar to unlock. Well, they work better if I keep the key in my pocket and firmly grip the handle (unlocks at this point). So I'll just stick with renewing the batteries regularly, not keep the key with any other stuff like phone or anything else with a chip etc.

https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/results?registration=Hk66gww

Good place to also take a look...

Thanks big boomer. Thankfully both them keys work on the radar/proximity sensor but not the actual buttons. Pressing the buttons on either does nothing except for flash lights in the keys. Speaking to the autoelectrician key guy and explaining the symptoms he seemed confident it's the reciever unit.

Just spoken to another Lexus (Sheffield) today and got a full price of key + coding. Leeds for some reason were unsure about how long it would take to code a key so couldn't give a price. £190 including coding +VAT on top. He did say that it might not cure the problem and that diagnostics would cost £135 to plug in their computer.

Hence why I think I'll just continue as is (with the proximity unlocking) and when the keys start dying further I'll just convert it all to manual lock/unlock. Especially since the keys still start the car with Battery out by plugging the trandponder key into the lock.

Thanks @BigBoomer good point...

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Just thought I'd post this up as it might help answer someones question or perplexity with their own keys/remotes. Background of the story is that I got the 2001 model a few months ago and it came with 3 sets of spare key shells. This leads me to (now) understand how there had been lots of attempts or intentions at fixing this here problem.

The problem being that the actual remote buttons on the keys don't work but the radar sensor does. Some research on the forums and from Car Care Nut' channel on YouTube and I've determined that there is 2 systems at work in the key fob. One is the proximity/radar sensor and the other is the actual immobiliser. I'll not go into much depth as it's complex and I don't fully understand it.

However, what we do know is that one system uses the remote key Battery and the other does not (I think). This is what probably explains how I can just get into the car without a Battery in the remote and start it up with the plastic prong into the ignition! More info on alarm types on these super complex structures here - 

From this vid I've kindof ascertained that the LS430 system is probably closest to the 04MY Prius. One that CCN describes as, 'not the best'.

Right, so after a bit of exploration without the remote Battery in the key I can confirm that I will still be able to use it. This is by pulling out the key which would need a properly intact plastic-casing. Because when you pull out the key out of the casing theres a prong that locks it into place so you can engage the key into the door lock (without it constantly pressing back into the remote case).

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Before going any further, I think I should include that I spoke to Lexus earlier about the keys. £131 + vat but this doesn't include coding. How much for coding I asked the parts chap (who was nice) who indicated, 'how long's a piece of string'. Not in them words but basically that he wasn't sure how long it would take for coding such an old key and that maybe I should see an auto-locksmith.

One call later to someone that 'don't work on Lexus', but pointed me to  AC autolocksmiths I was informed that it's the Transponder Key Computer. He doesn't work on them but its basically the computer that is finding it hard to see the signal from the key. Obviously (I checked, the part is about £500) I'll not be going down that route and hence and making this post for info purposes.

More to come in post 2 below:

1. How I can access the boot with the key.

2. What I mustn't do when accessing the car with the actual key and manual lock.

3. Why I need to order a secondary plastic sleeve for the key...

4. Whatever else I can think of (like my initial symptoms and how I get into the car at present using the transponder/immobiliser method).

Here you go @jonthetourist Lidney to be more precise, Parawell Garage. So a bit the other way from the Cotswolds but near enough (if you zoom out in google maps 😄). Judging from the way she wrote this note to someone called Paul, and the reviews of Parawell mentioning Paul and his brother who've been there for 15 years or more. I'm gonna assume it's one and the same Paul.

Seems like one of them honest-Jon garages with no nonsense business and customer care. For ref I don't have any lights on in the dash but the keys are getting a bit tired - so need touching on the door/handle for the central locking/immobiliser to disengage. But I don't need to use the actual key to get in.

Thanks very much Malc. Gave my mate who is an ex valet worker a message too. Got some ceramic turtle wax suggested so got that from Halfords and started waxing the paintwork a little. Though it's already a little shoddy, at least it'll get me more miles between washes before looking really dirty...

Another thing I forgot to update and don't wish to miss in my timeline of this beautiful car. Regards the timing belt worries and no service history. Miraculously I managed to find a wad of paperwork (not sure how I missed it) with documentation of the last 10 years of service history. Mainly at the same place down near the Cotswolds.

Filled me with a warm feeling all over and explains why the fluids look clean each time I've serviced the one's I've managed so far. Though the aux belt which I looked at today whilst under the front end looked a bit tired so will still get both belts done very very soon 🙂 God Willing...

Quick update before I miss owt. Yesterday after getting back into the car I got a tail-light dead sign in the dash. Then noted the brake pedal was going all the way down.

Was at my mums and the mechanics weren't easy to source - thankfully, as I try not to use the grade 3 types anyway (not satisfactory after the works completed and nor whilst it's being done 😉). So I calls my mate Ali and tell him the problem. 2 parauthas, some lamb curry and omelette later (he asked if I'd have breakfast, I politely responded appropriately) with a cuppa tea and lots of sweet stuff later, we was nicely tucked behind his garage jacking up the rear end.

Cut a long story short, we bled the OSR as there had been some brake fluid on the wheel. But couldn't find any actual leaks anywhere and the brake pedal was still soft(ish). So brought it home in prep for today.

Some digging on the net and I found this post - well, I can't find it now but basically it had a long list of problems reported over the years for a soft pedal and the one that best matched me was dirty fluid - so thought I'd go through all the calipers. Service em as well as do a full flush. Yesterdays bleed at the OSR hadn't brought any air but did purge some dirty fluid.

The order of the bleed today was gonna be, NSR, OSR, NSF, OSF. But after jacking up all 4 endsand loosening up the wheels, I was stuck with a seized bolt at the NSR. I wanted to remove the caliper and reset the pads and take a look at the condition of the seals. An hour (or maybe just a half) of messing about with the bottom 19mm bolt - the top bolts on both sides were just fine so I assume the bottom seizure is caused by water ingress grom gravity - and I had the caliper off.

Pads reset nicely after opening up the bleed port. Then both rear wheels/brakes fully bled with my 8 year old (got him a burger after and found an excuse to pass him a fiver too without pretending it was for the work) taking driver seat 'pressing' duties. Took it for a spin and everything is running nice and solid once again.

All the dot 3/4 fluid was looking clean too from the start. So must have just been that one bit of dirty fluid causing the soft pedal... Happy days (or as we say... Alhamdulillah - don't tell Netanyahu).

Excellent news (kind of). The chap from Autoglass came and was perplexed as to why Halfords told me to use AG when they only charge £40. I told him that the Halfords mech said that AG use a much higher pressure to inject the resin and that Halfords wouldn't warranty the work and hence advised me to just go to AG from the start.

Lovely chap (lets call him Brian) then asked me about, "do you mind me asking how much you paid" after he learnt I wasntgoing via insurance. £260 was quickly converted to £220 by him as he said he'd not bother doing the 2nd chip, "it's only minor surface scrape". Then after doing the job he tells me that he cannot guarantee it.

"Might last a day, might last forever", cos it had already been drilled and repaired previously (goes to show why you should get it done properly first and not go 'backyard'. Then Brian (the legend) tellse that he'll get the office to return my money.

Called them yesterday and they claimed they knew not what's happening. Called again today and they said they've returned the money to my (wifes) card and that it might take a few days...

So essentially a free windscreen repair job the other day (this post was supposed to be up a few days ago but it disappeared).

Just to add. The chap that's come asked about pricing (what I'd paid) and next was the usual, "why not go insurance" etc... Then it's an, "why didn't you just use Halfords" and I explained how Idbeen advised by them to use Autoglass due to the extent of the damage. "Hmmm, a bit strange" was the reply.

He indicated that there's apparently not much difference between his repair and that from Halfords. Asked about the lifetime warranty on the repair that the website stipulates and I'm informed that he has to sign it off first. There's also the risk that it could crack whilst he's impregnating the resin into it and then it's a full windscreen jobby!!

He obviously doesn't realise these screens cost about the 1k mark as he quoted me, 'about £200'. There we have it folks (aside from the lifetime warranty on the particular repair), you're better off going to Halfords 🤗

I actually specified the maximum excess during buying the insurance Malc. So not sure if it might be more like £500 or something like that.

Got the insurance for a fraction in return though at about £450 I think. Hopefully having theee two chips repaired, I'll see about some sort of extra protection for body and windows to keep em going for a good few years longer.

Lovely cars 😊

So... Driving back from work, noticed the small chip in my line of sight of the windscreen looks a bit, 'shrapnelled'. So drove straight to Halfords to enquire on the proper repair after seeing the Autoglass price is about £220. John, there told me I'm better off with AG due to the method they use and my screen now being a bit 'delicate'.

Got myself booked in for Friday at a cost of £260 but not going via insurance due to religious reasons - I'm getting the tiny chip done too hence the extra £40. Then spoke to my mate aboit my drive to work of 150 miles round trip. He advised against it unless I wanted a bigger crack due to vibrationsb (happened to his daughters car even though they'd seemingly strengthened it temporarily.

Not wanting to risk it I had to take leave from work explaining my problem. Moral of the story... Don't wait for that tiny chip to become a tiny crack. A replacement screen is pretty much over a grand... then the labour!

@Shadasorry.. I wasn't meaning you had anything against muslims. I was talking about that team (Clarkson and the other two) have many a time let some of Clarksons Islamophobia comments slide and even look at em amusingly. BBC obviously thought it acceptable that they didn't edit such prejudism out.

Apologies if you thought I was calling you such a thing. Just for clarification, it's been illegal (though maybe not enforced) for many years to ride on footpaths. Bicycles are indeed a road going mode of transport and riding them along the footpath does indeed endanger pedestrians. Hence why I just don't do it...