CypressPhil

That’s crazy Tony. I literally have no idea how they could have arrived at that figure. I had the same problem with mine. The screen is fine, it’s just the anti glare coating that’s started to come off. I just used a standard household wet wipe on mine. Bit of rubbing and it just all came off. Didn’t even bother to remove the screen from the car. Looks great now and I’ve not had any difficulty with being able to see the screen in direct sunlight. Made me wonder why they even had the coating on there in the first place.

If it’s a rumbling noise rather than a knocking, it could be a wheel bearing maybe? It will sound like a low growl/rumble and will be more noticeable at certain speeds. If it’s a knocking, then it could be a suspension bush but I’d have thought they’d have picked that up on the service.

Speaking of schiessewagens, did anyone see that story about the police being told to abandon pursuits because their schiessewagens burst into flames if driven too hard?! I was pmsl. BMW are allegedly refusing to deal with the issue, as they say it’s the way the police drive them and will not affect the majority of owners.

Lovely looking motor that. Personally I don’t like the way turbos drive and would take an NA engine over a turbo all day. Hope you get used to it and enjoy! It’s a cracking car.

Hi Piers My money would be on a sticky brake calliper. Had exactly the same thing on an IS200.

I can’t help with the question, but just wanted to say love the car! Great choice of colour Alex. Looks great.

Hi Paul Sorry to hijack your UX post, but I saw this and thought I get almost identical mpg figures from my IS. I’ve put it down to the cold weather. I guess the engine takes longer to warm up and is required for longer when running the heaters etc. Also battery performance isn’t as good in the cold. I have no idea about E10 though, as I’ve only ever used super. Be interesting to hear peoples experiences with E10. I’ve seen plenty of grumbling in the press about it, but always take that with a pinch of salt.

Should always be changed in pairs. Depending on the type of roads and mileage you do, I wouldn’t necessarily rush to have it done. I had an IS200 Sport that had the same advisory for a couple of years and the main dealer wasn’t too concerned about it. No issues with handling or uneven tyre wear, so I let it be. I would caveat that with I was only doing about 3k a year on mostly city driving though!

Hi mate, I had this issue. The bonding had failed in a couple of places on the rear screen. I noticed water droplets forming in the bottom right hand corner of the screen and some dripping into the boot. The puncture repair kit holder on top of the 12v battery was also full of water. The local Lexus dealer tested the screen with soapy water and an air line. Found 2 gaps in the seal. I got a local windscreen place to remove and refit the screen. There’s a slight risk of the screen breaking on removal, but the fitter said they did a lot of work like this for the local Merc main dealer and they’ve never had one break yet. Avoid using one of the main windscreen companies if you can, as I found they’ll be 2 or 3 times the price when I was calling round. Find a local fitter with a good reputation if you can.

Could be a wheel bearing on its way out? I had an RX with a constant low growl that got more noticeable at certain speeds. Turned out to be a bearing.

I had this exact same issue. Local Lexus dealer identified the bonding had failed in 2 areas (interestingly the opposite side to where the condensation was) by using soapy water and an air line. As the car was out of manufacturer warranty, they suggested a windscreen repair via insurance. However, windscreen and insurance companies both said this was not covered. They did offer to remove the screen and refit, but with a caveat that if the screen were to break, I would be 100% liable for the cost of a new screen. They wanted over £200 to do this, plus quoted over £600 for a new screen if it were to break. They were not impressed with my joke about asking some kids to put a brick through it and claiming as vandalism lol. Ended up taking the car to a local independent windscreen fitter, who said they did of a lot of work for the local German dealers like this. Ended up paying £100 for the removal and refit, plus quoted £450 for a new screen if it were to break, which they felt was very unlikely. All done with no dramas thankfully. A few months later, I was removing the 12v battery for charging and I noticed the plastic thing that sits on top of the battery (that holds the puncture repair kit) was full of water! So I was glad I got it sorted when I did!

I’ve been really pleased with the mpg my f sport delivers. I do run it on premium unleaded though, which probably costs me more than in £ than I save in higher mpg, but it makes me feel like I’m looking after the car 😂 On long-ish motorway drives (circa 160 miles each way), I’m recording 50/51 on the trip computer, so prob a bit less in real terms. I don’t drive slow either, spending most of my time in the outside lane and occasionally moving over for the Audi driving bell ends trying to break the sound barrier, (apart from the M25 of course where I’m either stationary, crawling or bang on 70). That said, I’m not driving like a lunatic either and allow a good distance from the car in front, to try and minimise braking and reaccelerating. On a drive out to the coast (about 25 miles each way) on nice A roads, I get high 50’s without trying and my PB is 63 round trip. That is helped by a long stretch of 50mph limit, controlled by average speed cameras though. When I was commuting to the office, which consisted of a short stint of city driving and a short dual carriageway blast Mon to Fri, followed by mostly A roads at the weekend, I’d normally end up with mid 40’s between fill ups. These days, an average tank for me consists of mostly A roads (I’d estimate about 75% A roads, 20% city and 5% dual carriageway) and I’m seeing 51-53 on the trip computer between fill ups. So if you’re in the 20’s, I’d say there’s something not right there and to get your car checked out. Sounds like the electric motor isn’t kicking in as much as it should be.

Thanks Pink. I’m using a 3M pad which seemed to stick pretty well. A suction cup mount would definitely struggle on those dots though, as it would be impossible to get a good seal.

Thanks Len. I’ll post an update once I’ve got some footage in various conditions. At 1080p the Mini isn’t the best resolution, but lens quality is more important than pixel count, so I’ll report back once I know how it performs. I had considered a rear cam. The OBD power lead has 2 USB ports, so adding another Garmin Mini would be fairly easy (but would need the sill panels removing to run the cable from the back). I’ll hold fire on this for the moment while I determine if the image quality and performance is any good.

Hey guys Just thought I’d share my dash cam install as it’s something I spent a fair bit of time researching. The whole thing took me less than 5mins and didn’t require any tools or panel removal. It’s very neat and very discreet with the wires all hidden away. s So I went with the Garmin Mini 2 (£99) as I wanted something as small as possible without a screen. I’ve put my key fob next to it for reference. I also wanted it hard wired to avoid trailing wires. Having looked into the hardwire kit with a piggy back fuse, I decided against this as I’d read that the fuse box in the passenger footwell is pretty snug and you can’t get the cover back on. So I went with the Garmin OBD2 power option (£35). You can set this to power off after 10mins, 24hrs, or to remain permanently on. It has an auto shut off if your battery goes below 12v, so theoretically it can’t drain your battery to the point where the car will struggle to start. The camera will power back on if the vehicle is bumped or motion is detected. I’ve sited the camera directly in the middle so it sits nicely behind the rear view mirror. You wouldn’t know if was there. I thought I was going to have to wedge the cable between the windscreen glass and the headliner, but there’s actually a nice gap (almost like a little shelf) so the cable sits under the headliner and cannot fall down. I ran the cable to the A pillar and tucked it in between the trim and headliner with just my fingers. I had considered removing the A pillar trim (make sure you disconnect the negative lead from the 12v battery if you do this. The airbag shouldn’t trigger when poking about in there, but best not to take any chances. You’d also need to make sure the cable was safely behind the airbag and not in front of it. You wouldn’t want that whipping you in the face!) I decided the A pillar removal wasn’t necessary as the cable is very thin and there was ample room behind the weather shield. This is very soft, as is the matching shield on the door, so the cable doesn’t get squashed and the integrity of the weather shield isn’t compromised. At the top of the dash, I came back out from under the weather shield and in between the plastic trim where the dash meets the side of the car. This only requires very gentle pressure to slide the wire in there. On the far left with the red led light is the OBD2 connector. I simply plugged the camera into the USB port, tied the excess wire up, then fed it up and under the bottom of the dash round to the carpet at the side, where there was plenty of room to drop it behind, so there’s no chance of it falling down and interfering with the peddles. Not the best pic due to the rain, but the body of the camera is hidden by the black ceramic dots on the windscreen. Only the tiny lens is poking down below, which is exactly what I wanted to achieve. You’d have to really be looking for the camera to see it. Finally, make sure you download the correct app. Don’t do what I did and download Garmin Dive rather than Garmin Drive 🙈😂 I went through all the registration, set up an account and then only noticed when it started asking about my scuba equipment 😂😂 Hope someone finds this useful. Be kind if not! I’m only a noob!

Mine is due for its 60k service next month and I had a similar dilemma. I had previously read about the Lexus Essentials Service, which is about half the price. It would renew the warranty on the Hybrid system, but not on the whole car. Not sure if this is still an option with the launch of Lexus Relax, but maybe worth enquiring? I’ve decided to go for the full service on mine. It’s expensive, but I like the idea of having the warranty on the rest of car, as well as the hybrid system. It doesn’t cover everything, but it does appear to cover quite a lot. Lexus must be confident about their build quality, which is reassuring.

Thanks for the reply Chappy. They claimed to have pressure tested it when they recharged it, but said it doesn’t always show a slow leak so isn’t infallible 🧐. It was their “Master Tech” who identified the leak on my third trip back. I ended up taking it to the main dealer (wish I’d gone there in the first place, as they actually charge the same for an aircon recharge (£60). I’d just assumed they would be expensive 🙈. They stripped the car down and confirmed the condenser was leaking. Initial quote to replace was about £630. I emailed Lexus UK looking for a gesture of goodwill. As had this happened 2 months further down the line after the car was next serviced, it would have been covered under the Relax Warranty. I pointed out that the car had been meticulously cared for and had received a glowing report on the rather thorough safety inspection they’d done while the car was up on the ramps. They couldn’t have cared less. Didn’t even do me the courtesy of replying to me directly. Just told the dealer to call me and say it’s out of warranty. The dealership called me and explained that Lexus UK had declined any gesture of goodwill, but they were able to discount the work a bit which they hoped would help. They took about £100 off, which they really didn’t have to do, as I’d already authorised them to do the work. They also replaced the o rings and the high and low pressure dust caps for the recharge ports which the other place had failed to put back when they were faffing about with it. So top marks for service from the dealership. Nil points for Lexus UK and the original AC recharge place. Lesson learned there.

Evening all, So it’s looking like I need to replace my a/c condenser on my IS300h (65 plate). It loses the refrigerant after about a week of having it recharged. The UV dye test has confirmed a leak. Apparently the hoses and seals all look ok, but when pressurised, a slight hiss appears to be coming from the condenser. The Tech couldn’t be 100% sure without stripping the front of the car down to get to it, but was fairly certain this was going to be the cause. Assuming this is the case, what do we think a reasonable amount of time to swap the condenser out? Looking at the repair manual, the front bumper needs to come off, along with various other parts. I’m thinking around 2 hours labour? I know the Denso part is about £280 inc vat. Just trying to get an approx cost in my head ready for when I get a couple of quotes for the work. Will speak to local main dealer and a local indie specialist who have been very good in the past. Also, any good cheaper alternatives to the denso part that anyone knows of? Or is it best to stick with the manufacturers choice of part? thanks in advance

The next gen IS will not be sold in Europe 😞 which is a shame because it looks really nice. Apparently the price point is too similar to the ES and as sales in Europe are mostly now SUV/Crossovers, they don’t feel it’s justified. It doesn’t look hugely different from the phase 3 version, but has been tweaked just enough to look even better! The infotainment system has also been upgraded to a touch screen finally. As they’ll be selling it in the US and Oz, I doubt there will be an all electric version. Think it was just hybrid and petrol. I love my IS and am really quite disappointed that we will not be getting the new model. I’ve tried to like the ES, but for me, the IS is a much better looking car.

Thanks for this Colin. Sadly the car has seen very little use over the past year, so I've certainly not done the battery any favours. Thanks for the tip about ordering from Lexus Swindon. Think I'll order a new battery from those guys (and make sure I look after that one). In the meantime, I'll keep the existing battery going with the help of my borrowed charger! Thanks again.

Had the same issue with my IS300h F Sport (on a '65 plate with the original battery). Did the whole beeping and put into park thing, while all the lights on the dash were flickering. I was worried something was seriously wrong with it until I checked this forum (thanks guys!) and felt great relief when I discovered it was the 12v battery! Removed the battery (another visit to the forum needed regarding the little rubber hose, as I'd never seen one of those before - thanks again guys), trickle charged it to full (was down to 11.4 volts before charging); reconnected it and it was fine. Ran the car for an hour with no issues, apart from the TPMS light came on for a while. Couldn't see any issues with the tyres, so assumed it was due to being disconnected from the battery for a couple of days. I bought a multi-meter to test the battery, as I didn't want to get caught out and the voltage is now down to 12.18 volts (4 days after last running the car for an hour, where the battery should have been fully charged). I'm thinking I should probably replace the battery, as this seems quite a significant loss of voltage in just a few days. Lexus Norwich quoted £140 for a new battery. What do you think guys? Just replace it to be on the safe side?

Evening all, Forum noob here looking for some advice from your collective wisdom. I have an IS300h in F Sport trim (65 plate) that I’m really pleased with... however, it has a slight leak at the rear windscreen (verified with some soapy water and an airhose). I’ve spoken to a local windscreen fitter who advised they could remove and re-bond the screen for £65. They then went on to say that although they have a good success rate of removing rear screens, there is a chance that it could crack on removal. On speaking to my insurer, I wouldn’t be able to make a claim on the windscreen policy if it were to break on removal. It’s bizarre that the most cost effective solution to my problem is for a local hoodlum to put a brick through it. Has anyone got any experience of rear screen removal on the IS? I’m just trying to gauge the likelihood of the screen failing on removal. If it were to fail, does anyone know how much a rear screen actually costs on one of these? Many thanks in advance for your assistance.