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Morning all and a happy new year to everyone.

Yesterday, quick clean of the 98 Ls400 (only quick). Didn't go anywhere after that, Left the car wet but no more than the rain of late has done.

This morning on the paper run.

Put key in ignition turned it to first position (dash lights on) and for some reason didn't turn key to start engine for appx 4 or 5 seconds. Engine seemed to take a second or 2 longer to start (maybe imagination) Immediately had a beep like door open, looked at the time display and it was on 1am and no temp display the clock soon corrected to right time, but still no temp. Is it possible that it's only a glitch that will sort itself out, or could it be something more like Battery or alternator. If anyone has had similar please let me know.

I would like to add that until now I have had no problems whatsoever electrical or otherwise, and until now everything worked on the car.

Brian

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Hi Mark

Thanks for your reply, the climate is off, been off since travelling from Elgin in Scotland on the 20th Dec but I think my temp display was still working.

I will get the Battery checked on Monday when my mechanic returns to work. Although I haven't had any incidents with low Battery or any starting problems. It was down to appx -3 last night here, wondered if that was anything to do with it?

Brian

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Hi, chaps and chapesses, I think there is some confusion here. On a '98 LS you will have three possible temperature displays. One situated right next to the clock for displaying the outside temperature (which should be on display all the time whilst driving) and then the second and third are two separate cabin temperature setting displays, one for the driver and one for the front seat passenger. As long as the fan is operated all three should display. With the fan off, the inside cabin temperature settings are not displayed (only the outside temp.). All this is regardless of whether the A/C is on or not. Hope this helps a bit.

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Hi Brian

We are indeed talking about the outside temp display, the word outside and numerical part was missing I repeat was missing.

Trip to shop few minutes ago started motor, pressed ac on still no display changed airflow directions a couple of times, nothing. Then decided to reduce cabin temp from hot setting and if by magic display back to normal, so it does work all the time regardless of ac on/off. I have now noticed that when vehicle is started clock display comes on first then all 3 temp displays work together, which probably means that it is linked to the cabin temp relays?/circuit.

Very happy that gremlins have left me (for now).

Brian

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Well Monday morning opened car with key fob as normal, put key into ignition????? no steering wheel movement, no light on dash--- Nothing at all.

Battery completely dead not even enough power to activate central locking.

Went and borrowed my mechanic friends booster pack, fired straight off,

took car to him he checked and said Battery was OK charging, checked under load and still OK.

Checked with a multi meter and established that it was charging at 13.8v and he would have expected 14.4v but one of the guys that works with him is an auto electrician and said 13.8v may be OK, some older vehicles work at around 13.8v.

Under load it was dropping slightly and picking back up straight away.

We established that I had to turn the heated seats and rear window demister off more often, and turn off the auto headlights as they fire up as soon as the key is inserted, turned the heater blower down a bit also.

Taking more out of the Battery than putting in on short journeys.

Been OK since (fingers crossed)

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Brian, It sounds to me like your Battery is only just doing its job. My Battery makes 14+ volts whilst charging and I have the same car as you. The alternator should be able to cope with any high demand really. I've found that one symptom of a failing Battery is that odd electrical glitches seem to start happening, e.g. electric windows won't work properly etc. Mind you, I've never used auto headlights like you have.

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Hi Brian

I totally agree, I would like to see 14.4 but my mechanic friend seems to think to quote his words " it can sometimes do a Battery good to run it flat--same as the Battery in your drill )

I can see where he is coming from,.

I asked him to get me a Battery but he said No, wait and see how it goes first, if you turn the toys off more often it'll probably be OK.

I mentioned the fact that the Battery should be fully charged from my scotland trip. His reply was that I had told him the weather was bad on the return journey so Headlights on, Wipers on, Heater blasting, Rear heated window and last but not least heated seat on, so he says the Battery is entitled to throw a wobble after that.

No matter he will sort me out what ever happens.

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Brian

With all due respect your advisor is wrong ,the Battery in the optimum state of health will charge at 14.5 volts and the graduation fall is due to the inability of the Battery to take that charge, it is usually caused by sulphate build up on the plates which is caused by short usage of the Battery (as in trips to the shops) and of course the age of the Battery.

The trip to Scotland would have charged an healthy Battery up regardless of what you were using in the car .The electrical system on the car is designed to charge the Battery regardless of load.

There is likely to be a discharge going on when the car is inoperative anyway and a weak Battery will discriminate between non essentials on the electrical circuit such as temp displays.

Take a test on the Battery whilst off the car and under no load after a charge to as much as it will take, over the next 12 hours see how much it is dropping, if it is heading significantly down to less than 12.4v it is failing.

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