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squeeling and heat from rear wheel


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Had some squealing from my rear NS last week, so I stripped the callipers, re-greased and put it back together.

Problem has not gone away.... so my next thought was hand brake shoes might need a look at...... however, when I stopped, I noticed the  alloy hub  was warm to touch (the others were cold)... the caliper was also cold.  Given the heat, I am now thinking of a wheel bearing.

I normally think of failing wheel bearings causing a low rumble when cornering... and high pitched noise as brakes.... so a bit puzzled.   

Any thoughts before I dive in again this weekend ?

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to see if theres any You might aswell dive back in giving yourself more time to inspect the handbrake shoes and test the wheel bearing by rotating the wheel and also holding the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock and wiggle to see if there's any movement 

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well ... had another look, the calliper still seems free, I can feel the handbrake come on/off  and wheel turns without any obvious roughness... it is a little stiff, but put that down to the diff and not much different what I remember front wheel drive being.  No movement when trying to rock the wheel ... all feels good to me

I took it for another drive and again that hub is too hot to touch when I got home.. the others cold... obviously something wrong... I can only think bearing is on it's way, but never seen one go without making a rumble sound

I expecting they'll ask me back into the office soon... 160mile return, not prepared to do that until I fix this.

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That's interesting. So you've checked what can be checked and all seemed good but still after a test drive one hub is too hot to touch. Basically change the wheel bearing as a pair though. Very strange what you're experiencing. 

I'd have thought quite a few would have got onto this thread.

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I had to replace a (front) wheel bearing in March last year, and like you suggest, the sound associated with the failure was a rumbling/grinding sound, not a squeal.

Is the sound constant? Or only occasional? Parking brake still effective?

9 minutes ago, Mr Vlad said:

Basically change the wheel bearing as a pair though.

I thought this too, but the mechanic who changed mine said it wasn't necessary.

 

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To me its odds on that the caliper is not sliding as it should or the piston is not releasing, again as it should.

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The sliders are ok, re-greased them last week and check again today, move ok.  Sticky piston release might be a good shout… the pads were changed 6months ago, might have pushed rusty piston back…. 

years ago you could get kits to repair,I guess nowadays it a replacement unit

any thoughts to a quick test to prove it, without stripping?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Gold star to VFR …. Another good look this weekend, and it was a sticky piston … I replaced with a refurb unit (£80)….  

It’s working perfectly now, but I regret trying to save few quid on the part.  They powdercoated everything, so I had grind off where the brakeline mounts. Then the rubber boots were very suspect quality, luckily the old ones were fine.  The brake nipple was weird small size, that I didn’t have a pipe for… again salvaged the old one.  Finally, it didn’t come with a new brake hose washer, so I annealed the old one which seems to seal ok.

it was the first time I attempted to save a few quid on maintenance, lesson learnt…. Still, despite the extra effort, looks solid and happy it’s safe for the road again.

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