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Can an ISF ride like a Lexus ??


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Went for another longer test drive today and can confirm that the factory audio still cranks hard on classic LED Zep :punk::punk: 

Ride is now comparable to my previous 2008 E92 that had new Bilstein B4's and factory springs all round. Compliance over small imperfections is excellent and larger imperfections are handled without passing any sharp impact to the chassis. There is still tyre thump but that is unavoidable with big wheels and short sidewall tyres. The stiffer springs on the HKS coils would possibly work a little better on the race track. But Bilstein's reputedly give better adhesion, so for a car that is not intended for the track the Bilstein's and factory springs are a clear winner for ride quality on the road. 

The car now has a "firm and sporty" ride as befits a high performance sedan. There are still a few very minor rattles and noises as can be expected with a well used car. But it is now a pleasure to drive... mission accomplished :smile: 

Now I just have to find out why I have coolant leaking at the front under the air filter box ?? Radiator ?? 

Cheers...

16-10-23.JPG

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It's a cheap and easy fix replacing the radiator. Something I would reccomend with the type of radiators Lexus use on some models. The coolant line for the gearbox runs into the bottom of the radiator. These radiators can corrode from the inside and I don't need to tell you the damage coolant can do in the place of gearbox oil! It's around a £5k fix from Lexus for a new box.

I changed both my radiator on the GS, and the ISF (same style radiator), on the drive at home. It's a relatively cheap maintenance job when compared to the possible damage it will cause when faulty.

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11 hours ago, RichGS11 said:

It's a cheap and easy fix replacing the radiator.

I haven't been able to spot any telltale pink staining or leakage looking down from the top, but I can see coolant pooling on top of the bellypan. Getting underneath for a closer look will have to wait as I have just had a cataract operation, and crawling under cars is not on the list of approved post-op activities :smile:  There is a local business selling alloy radiators for NZ$500 which is lee than half the price of the OEM item with plastic tanks. I just have to check to make sure they have the heat exchanger for the trans in the bottom tank (and it looks like it does). If it has and I need a new radiator, I will most likely try the alloy version. 

Cheers...

Fenix ISF Radiator.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Car had been sitting for ten days with coolant on the full mark and nothing leaked out. So I got the belly pan off today... couldn't see any leaks. Let let the engine run until the thermostat opened and then I got a leak. Coolant sitting all the way along the top seam between the tank and the core, so I figure the top seal has let go. 

Ordered a new rad... had to settle for the OEM style as there just don't seem to be any all alloy units available on AU or NZ. Should be here in a couple of days and then the fun starts :biggrin:

Cheers... 

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Changing the radiator is the kind of job that can probably be classified as "easy" or "straight forward" after you have it done it once or twice. But the first time verges on a nightmare as you fumble your way through the removal process finding out the hard way what needs to be removed (and in what order) to gain sufficient room to finally pull the radiator. The pièce de résistance is getting access to the two small bolts at the bottom front of the A/C condenser !!!!  

Never the less the new rad is in and sitting full of coolant until tomorrow when I will give the engine a run while the car is still up on blocks. If no leaks I'll button it up and go for a drive. Got the OEM wheels on now with OEM tyre sizes. I'll be setting the pressures to the factory recommended 36F/37R psi and evaluating the ride :) 

 

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Well done! There are guides on YouTube for it. Compared to changing the headers on the ISF on your driveway, the radiator is an easy job 😆

At least you got it done and hopefully the car runs well.

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14 hours ago, RichGS11 said:

At least you got it done and hopefully the car runs well.

Ran it until the fan/s were at full speed and no leaks, so happy with that :yahoo:Had a bit of a panic attack when I went around to the drivers seat to check the temp gauge... the yellow triangle was lit up and the dash was telling me (in Japanese) that there was a problem in the front of the car !!!!! Turns out it didn't like the engine running for so long with the hood up... wheww  :rolleyes1: 

Swapped the factory intake pipe back in (blue silicone one out) and will bin the K&N filter when the Japanese factory type air and cabin filters that I have ordered arrive. I was told that the car was serviced before I picked it up, so I will check the colour of the oil after I have been for a decent drive and decide if it needs changing.

Hoping to get to drive this car quite a bit over summer... I'm down in NZ so summer is not far away.

Cheers...

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Did you guys keep track of how much coolant you put in the system once the radiator was changeed? 

The only reference I have found after a quick look is: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-f-2008-2014/939951-changing-antifreeze-for-isf.html#:~:text=If your system is empty,11.9 liters to refill it.

I plan to do a complete drain including the block, so I am trying to figure out how much to order. 11.9 litres sounds a lot and that post doesn't reference any source. Wondering what experience you guys had? Thanks

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7 hours ago, EP80 said:

Did you guys keep track of how much coolant you put in the system once the radiator was changed? 

I only drained the radiator (not the block) with the front of the car raised and the rear wheels on the ground. It took 5 litres to get the level between the marks once it was back on the ground. Probably no help, but it's a start :smile:

Cheers...

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Well, the car is back on the ground and running. Happy with the more conservative look and sensible height. Set the tyre pressures and went for a short drive. Right now I would assess the ride as almost identical to my 2008 E92 mSport, firm and sporty. Tyre thump is still a little more intrusive than I would like but acceptable given the ride.

The E92 ran the same tyre size combination only in 18's rather than 19's. Not sure if that would make any noticeable difference. I will probably stay with the 19"s until the tyres need replacing and make a call at that time.

Here is how the car sits today...

Cheers..

.

08-11-23a.jpg

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2 hours ago, Jon Dee said:

I only drained the radiator (not the block) with the front of the car raised and the rear wheels on the ground. It took 5 litres to get the level between the marks once it was back on the ground. Probably no help, but it's a start :smile:

Cheers...

Thanks, with that in mind, the 11.9 litre figure sounds like it might it might be possible. 

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When I was changing the air filter yesterday, as I wiped out a few dead insects from the fixed part of the air filter housing, I noticed that there was a flap arrangement at the back. This is operated by a vacuum servo mounted external to the box, and put me in mind of every young lad's performance mod of punching a few extra holes in the airbox to "help the engine breathe". And I admired the fact that there must be some hot-rodders in the Toyota design department :smile: 

Up until today I had been driving my car in much the same style as I drove my E92... ease into the gas and let the low end torque pull the car away smoothly, gliding through the gears in the lovely smooth transmission. But today, the sun was shining and I was feeling a bit frisky, so I accidentally (heh!!) hit the gas hard after I pulled onto the main road, and let the engine run up the revs. WoooOOOTTTTTT !!!!!! I wasn't watching the rev counter, but suddenly all hell broke loose :yahoo:Pretty sure the afterburner kicked in judging by the substantial boost in acceleration and the roar from the engine !!!!

NOW... I understand why people love this car... Jekyll & Hyde... you better believe it :biggrin::biggrin: 

Cheers...

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Try kickdown - you know, past the pressure point on the gas pedal - at 60/65mph in 8th. Mine goes down to 2nd and takes off like a scalded cat with the usual fanfare from the engine.   -  Lovely!😮

Be careful you'll be doing over a "ton" in a very short time.

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Very fun and underrated vehicles. Making mine lighter and opening up the entire exhaust system from the block has made for an entertaining drive. Also moving the redline and tweeking the shifts makes manual mode a hoot.

Let it warm up and let it rip.

Amazing machines!

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On 11/8/2023 at 7:52 PM, Jon Dee said:

I only drained the radiator (not the block) with the front of the car raised and the rear wheels on the ground. It took 5 litres to get the level between the marks once it was back on the ground. 

It seems to take a while for air to work its way out of the cooling system as I have managed to squeeze another litre in to the overflow container since I have been driving the car. It has settled at just above the lower mark when cold now, 

Cheers...

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On 9/15/2023 at 8:45 AM, NothernDan said:

If you want a nice compliant ride.....Airlift all the way.

I have been doing a bit of reading to educate myself about AirLift suspension, and see that the usual procedure is to "build" a setup from a range of components. The better part of the cost is in the compressor and controls, which at the top end of the scale contain a lot of clever stuff that I don't think I would really need. Further down the scale are simple manually controlled setups that on the surface, would appear to meet my requirements i.e. no self-levelling, no Bluetooth, small compressor. 

If I was to go down the AirLift route all I would require would be adjustable damping on the shocks (as per the attached pictiure) and the ability to "set and forget" the ride height at a sensible level. 

If you have used an AirLift system on your car could you indicate if the type of simple system I have outlined would give the desired compliant ride ? Or would you recommend a different setup ? 

All comments appreciated :smile:

Cheers... 

Performance Front Kit - 78545

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