Clunk From The Front

Alex JB · August 13, 2007

Well, I have been hearing the dreaded clunking for a while and got rid of it when I did the roll bar bushes... for a while... now it's back.

I buy my LPG form a local garrage and the nice fella there agreed to take a look on the ramps (suggested I'd be taking her there for the MOT :winky: ).

Lucky for me all is solid as a rock throughout the front suspension!

Turns out the pasenger side caliper is quite loose on the slider as one of the rubers has gone and the slider shaft has coroded.

second hand caliper and slide needed but aparently not desperate as he says it will pass MOT as is.

Anyone else had this issue with front calipers?

steve2006 · August 13, 2007

Hi Alex,

Funny you should mention this problem mine seems to be exactly the same,no worn suspension components but a definite clunk normally only when turning sharp right, applying the brakes when taking the corner eliminates the clunk.

Alex JB · August 14, 2007

guy said a good caliper should have almost no movement, the space between spokes in my wheels is enough to get your hand in and give it a tug to check the movement, but if you steer al the way over I bet you can get your hand in to check from the back.

moriwaki · August 15, 2007

Just wondered what king of MPG you get with the gas conversion ?... cheers

Alex JB · August 16, 2007

Hi,

Getting a constant 17 with my stop start 10 mile drive to work, but at 40p/litre that = 11p/mile, which would = 40mpg in petrol or heavy oil.

Does better on a run but only about 18% (up from 17 to 20mpg), on petrol the 19mpg I was getting used to go up to 25mpg which would be 30% better.

Maybe because I've developed more of a club foot since mu fuel bill halved... Drive in ECT PWR mode all the time now too.

4000 miles saving about 13p/mile = £520 saved in fuel cost, and we all know where most of yr 96p/litre goes to anyway... not to the poor guy on the forcourt that's for sure, so I'm very happy.

LowRed · August 17, 2007

Hi,
Getting a constant 17 with my stop start 10 mile drive to work, but at 40p/litre that = 11p/mile, which would = 40mpg in petrol or heavy oil.

Does better on a run but only about 18% (up from 17 to 20mpg), on petrol the 19mpg I was getting used to go up to 25mpg which would be 30% better.

Maybe because I've developed more of a club foot since mu fuel bill halved... Drive in ECT PWR mode all the time now too.

4000 miles saving about 13p/mile = £520 saved in fuel cost, and we all know where most of yr 96p/litre goes to anyway... not to the poor guy on the forcourt that's for sure, so I'm very happy.

I'm thick so bear with me going Off Topic but what does the ECT PWR Button do???

I been told not to touch it as it drinks Fuel!!! Please let me know, as I would love to save a bit of the Juice :D

Mike_B · August 18, 2007

I'm thick so bear with me going Off Topic but what does the ECT PWR Button do???
I been told not to touch it as it drinks Fuel!!! Please let me know, as I would love to save a bit of the Juice :D

ECT = Electronically Controlled Transmission. PWR = Power mode.

All it really does it make the gearbox more likely to change down a gear when you open the throttle - where it may leave it in gear and let the engine do the work in normal mode, it will change down much earlier to give you better response when you accelerate.

I don't know how much impact it really has on fuel economy though, I used to run a Toyota Avensis auto and that actually gave better mpg in 'power' mode than it did in normal. Probably something to do with the lower gearing meaning you used less throttle opening?

MickAtHome · August 20, 2007

Anyone else had this issue with front calipers?

I checked round all four corners of my Mk2 and found the bottom pin on each caliper was corroded - replacements from Lexus dealer came to about £25. So far I have fitted the fronts which reduced the clunking and 'pulsing' I get when braking. Still got the rears to do.

Mick