Hid Help

[Big mattey]

Hi chaps.

Had a search on here, but can't seem to get anywhere.

The drivers side dipped beam has packed up on my 2006 220d sport.

It actually packed up in mid summer, but due to the fact I don't do a lot of night driving, and it was summer I didn't get it sorted.

Now winter is here and the mot is due, I need to fix It.

The problem started when using the auto function, the drivers side light would turn off randomly, then when switching from auto to manual it would ignite.

The problem got worse till it wouldn't ignite at all.

I have purchased a pair of replacement bulbs, but on fitting the new bulbs the drivers side still won't ignite.

As I also have an issue with the drivers headlight fogging up with condensation I decided to remove it to check it out.

On inspecting the ballast fitted to the underside of the lamp unit, it looks rather corroded and the paint on it is bubbled up a lot. So I presume the ballast unit is shot. Does anyone else agree? Can you test the ballast output to check it works?

Does anyone know how much the main dealer will charge to supply or fit a new ballast?

If not the ballast, is there an igniter for the bulb?

Also on the subject of condensation, are there supposed to be any covers on the 3 plastic projections the stick out of the rear of the lamp unit? I only ask as I found what looks like a plastic cover behind the light unit, inside the inner wing. It is semi clear plastic with a disc of foam in the bottom, and it fits nice and tight over the projection on the back of the head light.

Sorry for the long post, but it takes a bit of explaining, and I am not very well educated in vehicle electronics relating to hid lamps.

Thank you for having the patients and reading my long post.

Matt.

[steve2006]

If it's not the bulb there is only the ballast that could be responsible.

Don't try and check the high voltage output it can be up to 30,000 volts on start up and would cause serious injury if your body was to discharge it!

You could check the 12 volt supply to it but again extreme car is needed.

If the ballast looks physically damaged the chances are it is the problem.

They are not cheap new from Lexus, it may be worthwhile sourcing a good secondhand one from an online auction site or post a wanted ad on the forum.

All the bulb holders should have a rubber seal/gasket fitted.

[Big mattey]

Thanks for that Steve, you're a star.

There is a genuine denso Toyota unit on eBay for £80 at the moment, would that be a good price?

I saw a video on YouTube showing how to replace it, but it said you had to remove all the reflectors and bulb housings from inside the light unit to do it, can you confirm if that is right?

Also do you or anyone else know if the plastic bungs should be in place on the rear of the headlight housing?

This is the part.

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3f0fb5ea62

[steve2006]

You're welcome, not seen the Youtube video so please post up the link.

The ballast looks correct.

From what I can see each bulb housing should have a regtangular gasket which I assume is rubber held in place by a plastic frame, sorry cannot post up the picture due to copyright.

[Big mattey]

I will post up a pic of the bung I am talking about later. The bulb covers have the gaskets on.

Here is a link to the vid in question.

[Exdee]

Too much hassle. I was in similar situation recently but luckily it was the bulb.

You can actually remove the ballast connector without opening the headlight but the problem is there is a screw somewhere that keeps you from pulling the wire.

I am not a big fan of baking your headlights open unless you are one of those professionals from hidplanet. Have you considered cutting the wire? Let us know how you get on.

PS: There is a drivers side unit for auction on eBay at the moment.

[Big mattey]

I've seen a unit for sale on eBay, but have got to wait for payday now. Was hopeing there would be an easier way to fit it than ripping the light apart. Why couldn't they just design it so you can just feed the cable through the hole? I watched the video you posted, but is it really safe to dismantle the plug? Especially when you consider the voltages involved?

[Exdee]

Yes I am afraid this headlight design has plenty of flaws. The ballast has a separate power lead connected to it and I believe as long as that is disconnected you are safe to play around with the bulb connector. (Just using common sense here - could be wrong)

An aftermarket ballast is an option too. Here's an example:

http://www.flawlessfitment.com/2012/02/is-250350-ballast-retrofit.html

[Big mattey]

After watching the video clip, I think it would be quite safe to do it that way. Will have to get a new ballast on payday. Seems crap that Lexus don't sell the ballast separate, just replace the whole light unit, such an expensive waste if you ask me.

Just got to sort out the fogging issue now. Funny how in the clip I posted showing the ballast renewal, shows it was the same headlight that was knackered as on my car too.

Might bake mine to separate it and reseal it, might cure the problem.

I found this part behind the headlight unit when I removed it, is it supposed to be attached to owt?

I think it it a bung that fits over the back of one of the three lugs that stick out of the rear of the unit, but I am not sure. I know when I tipped the unit up, this is where the water ran out of, so I thought it might plug up the holes.

[Exdee]

I am sorry I have no idea what that is.

In terms of waterproofing your headlight I would suggest using a hairdryer to get rid of any residual moisture inside the headlight before you seal it up.

[Big mattey]

I tried that when I took it out last time, I just blew it onto the hole for the main beam. It worked quite well. Trouble was the next time it was damp it just did it again. Going to have to bite the bullet and reseal it. I was wondering if removing the factory glue and using a bead of silicone would work instead?

[Exdee]

I've read of instances where people have used the factory glue (which is pretty much silicone too) to seal it back but I guess you would have to be very careful in order to preserve it when prying it open. Silicone should be fine. Just get a black one instead of a clear one for a neater look.