BillNick

Just ordered some 450h calipers £130 posted Will get em fully refurbished in black Cant wait!

Yes the guy I have been emailing at GROM UK confirmed latest firmware is 8.1 as I asked the same question...

Hmmmmm. Hope you get it sorted, I am all ears....

I don't have VLine yet, so have passed this issue onto Richard at GROM UK. See if he is aware.

I have been emailing Grom Audio UK Richard there confirms the latest VL2 with 8.1 firmware supports Apple CarPlay. There is an activation process to follow and daily use is via USB cable only: Apple CarPlay Activation: CarPlay is not installed by default, please make sure CarPlay is enabled on your iPhone, connected to USB1 port, then tap on the grey CarPlay Icon, then tap on ”Activate CarPlay UI” 11 times, this then activates CarPlay. If you get CarPlay working, do let us know what you think? Might be worth contact Grom UK regarding the issue of reverse camera - Lexus map? info@gromaudio.co.uk

Anybody used this with Apple CarPlay yet? Appreciate it is android supported, but on the UK page it lists full Apple CarPlay integration???

Thank you very much, excellent write too 👍🏼

Hi all, I want to experient with a couple of ideas I have for painting/part painting the chrome inserts of my headlights. Dont want to apply trial and error on my actual headlights so if anyone has a broken headlight with the chrome insert still intact, I have cash waiting. All I need is the chrome insert. Cheers

Does make sense yes, different to my issue it seems. When was the last time your car had a full brake fluid replacement? That can make hell of a difference. Air builds up in the fluid over time so they recommend replacement every 2 years. Both issues very odd and annoying to say the least.

I have almost new OEM discs and pads (3-4000 miles in) and they seem find on smooth soft braking, but as soon as you apply a bit of harder pressure or need to stop quickly, they pulse, like the pads are only making contact on one part of the disc. No wobble in the steering wheel however, so I think it could be the rears (also supported by the fact that it only happens when you put on full anchors). How would you describe your 'grabby' sensation?

Hi John, In relation to your big brake upgrade: Aside from the calipers, are you able to list all of the other intricate parts required for pad fitting in the IS350 calipers please? I found the calipers on Rock Auto, will they also sell the pad fitting kit/parts? Thanks Billy

Thanks very much! I look forward to reading your thread.

Hi all, Seen a few members with front brakes from the GS. Can anyone please advise me what is involved with this upgrade? Which model and year range of GS please, and do the calipers and discs go straight on, or does anything need modifying or customising? I have a 2008 IS250 SE-L Thanks Bill

People that have continuing issues after multiple sets of discs and pads must have something out on their hub - albeit minute. You can get your discs skimmed on the car which will remove any run out caused by the car it is mounted to - rather than the disc itself. My brakes have been pulsing when I push them hard. I had new rear pads fitted about 10k ago, discs were not replaced. Most recently I had new front discs and pads fitted which were OEM Lexus. The pulsing only occurs under hard braking - in fact I brake softly on purpose because I hate the feeling of the pulsing when it happens. Plus I don't actually stop as quickly as I probably should because the brakes clearly aren't seated 100%. I am going to get the rear discs skimmed. I don't have any steering wheel wobble and all other brake parts have been replaced barring the rear discs. So my theory is pay for the rear axle first, then if the pulsing is not cured, pay for the front also. I am also thinking (though have no confirmation) that if the rear is the problem that is why it only happens when I press hard on the brakes as this will push more onto the rear than usual under soft or moderate braking. Or it could just mean that the imperfection is magnified as the pads are pushing further and further into the disc....I dunno. I just want smooth and effective brakes lol. Ill report back after the skim.

Aside from failing an MOT, I will also have my own OCD to contend with knowing the steps in the beam are the wrong way around lol I am going to experiment with painting my the chrome inserts on my existing factory units. Does anyone have any broken headlights laying around? Broken glass, broken tabs all acceptable as all I want is the chrome insert to experiment with a few paint jobs. I assume the glass and the chrome inserts are identical whether HID or Halogen? Ta

So I guess those UK buyers and Aus buyers are either unaware or don’t care.

But those steps shown in the top diagram will be the opposite direction to how they are now with my UK headlights right? Perhaps those buyers in UK & Aus having not had HIDs before would not have noticed they are the wrong way around and like you say, not blinded oncoming drivers? Do you think an MOT tester would tell they are non-compliant?

So what exactly does AFS do for us? Self levelling on startup + left/right when going around corners on the road. If 2011+ cars don't have AFS, they must still have self levelling else they would all fail the MOT right? If I lose the left and right but still pass the MOT then that's enough for me - so long as I can get the warning like removed from the instrument cluster. Still, this is all in hindsight as I am 99% sure the US lights wont be any good. Think I will just go back to the plan of painting my chrome inserts black.

I know, clutching at straws aren’t I.... I was hoping one of the UK or Aus buyers would pop up n give me some kind of good news. Would be just as difficult to sell them back to US also. Id really like to find out the part numbers according to the UK database. This would be confirmation and I’d be able to sleep again at night lol

He said that yes the AFS light will flash but AFS will still be working. so I guess I can remove the LED from the instrument cluster? im not fussed about losing the left/right auto movement going around corners (although it’s a cool feature) but up n down self levelling is an MOT requirement so that has to work.

Yeh I am prepared to lose the AFS and put up with the light too. Might end up getting the cluster our of the dash to remove the bulb seen as it becomes non-functional anyway. Putting my VIN into Toyodiy.com won't help I dont think? As it will just list parts for my 2008 car and I want to verify part numbers for the later 2011+ cars.

Tech One in Sidcup Derek (owner) was trained at Jemca Toyota before opening Tech One with his family. Used him on my Mk1 IS200 and now Mk2 IS250. Not the cheapest labour rate (£65 + VAT i think) but an honest guy and knows our cars VERY well.

Hi all, I have been chatting with a reputable US Lexus parts seller about a brand new set of OEM 2011+ headlights they are supplying as plug n play upgrade for 2006-2010. https://ebay.us/tHjg7p - this is the ebay listing He says he has sold 10 pairs to buyers in Australia and 2 pairs to buyers in the UK all without any bad feedback or complaints so he assumes all is good and plug n play as advertised. I wonder if any of those buyers are members on here?? If so, please provide me with your feedback on this purchase. My concern is buying headlights from the US and putting them onto my 2008 UK car: Projectors as I understand it, are still directional and RHD and LHD versions exist. Will fitting these headlights from the US to my UK car blind on coming drivers? Can anyone clear this up for me? The seller says he was unaware that projector headlights are RHD/LHD as he had not heard anything back from those UK or Aus buyers. Does anyone have access to OEM part numbers? The part numbers he is supplying are: 81145-53544 & 81185-53544, can anyone check the UK parts database to see if the numbers are the same? If they are different, I will not buy of course. I REALLY want to upgrade to these headlights, have done ever since I bought the car, will make so much difference. Many thanks for help in advance. Billy

Hi all, After I parked up at home following a long drive back from Bristol on Sunday, I noticed a mild smell of burning coming from the car. As I have had new brakes fitted recently I put it down to those wearing in after the long drive and thought no more. However, when I next started the car I have now got a whining noise coming from the engine bay which follows the engine speed. Only way I can describe it is like a really old gearbox whine but not as loud of course. I have taken the plastic covers off under the bonnet and by following the noise I am pretty sure it's one of the pulleys - which one I can't be sure. I could be seeing things but think I might be able to see the tensioner pulley wiggle very slightly from time to time - but could be my subconscious. I have tried to wiggle each pulley but they are all pretty tight with the belt still on so cant feel any play. Could the burning smell have been from the belt? Could a failing pulley cause the belt to rub/smell? Anyone have any advice of how to diagnose which pulley myself? That way I can just either do it myself, or save on diagnostic charges when I hand it to my garage. AC, Power Steering and Power all seem to working fine no faults...... yet. Car is 2008, done 70k and had a new water pump fitted 5,000 miles back. Thanks in advance for your help. Bill

ahmed24 how are you mate? I was wondering where you managed to get brand new 2012 headlights for £495? Do you know the part numbers please?