lex2oos

thats normal. mines are the same. they have thermostat in them and when they reach temperature they switch off and wont turn on untill temperature goes down to a certain level. I would like them to stay hotter for longer time :(

Hi there! it is possible. You need to put switch on steering angle sensor power wire. when car is started, push that switch, VSC system detects fault and will turn off. So as Traction control. ABS will work as usual. VSC will reset next time when car is turned on. look in american forums http://my.is/forums/f88/vsc-disable-344712/

do you have oem navigation? its just, drivers door speaker wires go trough navigation computer for voice assistance. if your navi computer is removed, or the connectors are disconnected drivers side speaker wont work. and that is an easy fix

Rubbish. Its an active head unit. The AMP controls the volume, fader, bass, treble, etc. through the TX+/- multiplex from the front controls of the HU. The HU is the audio source and controller only. Nothing to do with the L/R bass, volume, etc. at that level - the level and equalisation is constant at this point. well this is weird When I did my head units brain change I was drivin around without head unit for a month. I conneced ipod directly to cars stock amp and listened it with no problems. volume was controlled from ipod and thats it. all I had to do was to connect one wire to ignition, just like remote wire to any other amplifier, so it knows when to turn on or off. I dont know what you have there, but I am telling from my experience. Now I dont have anything from stock audio left in my car. Now my stock amp can be used as a normal, standalone speaker amplifier. btw cars stock navigation worked fine without stock head unit too. my car is year 2000, is200, 8 speaker audio and navigation

so just to be clear.. will this way allow me to adjust all the settings, when using only the stereo (e.g for cd/tape) or do I lose the functionality all together Sorry, I did not understand what you mean, but the first way, your head unit will be useless since aux is connected directly to amplifier. in my (Boergy's) way, your head unit 'thinks' it is playing cassete when in real time your mp3 player is the source of sound. head unit works as it does on radio, cd or tape mode... as for GROM adapter... simple solutions cost money. soldering wire to main board will cost you few punds for the wire only

I hope he won't mind but here's a picture that member Fargo had some time ago now. TG This way you wont be able to adjust fader, bass and treble from head unit. and volume will be controlled trough your player... This is what i did Boergy's pictures the key is to remove little caps and bridge the resistors ( you can remove resistors and just short the two poles) after that when you insert cassete in your headunit it will activate aux input. Good luck

thats weird I have tried two bluetooth obd readers based on elm327, both worked. Garmin Eco route HD also works ok. IS200 is using ISO protocol, so it needs pins 4,5 (ground), 16 (+12v power) and pin 7 is K-line for data.

auto's have single ecu for gearbox and engine, so ecu should be fine

I disagree. there is only one flap in the heater unit, so if it is stuck, BOTH sides should be blowing cold air. I say it is still related to heater matrix. I had the same problem. Since my car is LHD I had cold air at drivers side and warm at passenger. I removed heater matrix and took it home, flushed with vinegar and citric acid. now it is alot better, but will see what happens when temperatures will fall lower than 0 degrees celsius. good luck

my mistake :D DOG bowls! and I have HID kit in them, and light output is amazing compared to stock reflectors.

Those projectors are the s*x! I have projectors too, with dig bowl shrouds. they are from 3000GT, not bixenon and not even xenon, but kit works good in them :) installing them requires reflector cutting....

is200 has dual mass flywheel?

If the changer works.....

I dont know what do you mean by oil control valve, but thats the oil feed line for VVT-i

yes! On rear parking, rewerse and brake lights.

4 options for aux in 1.buy a cassete adapter and have very poor quality (not an option really) 2. buy GROM adapter for 50 pounds ( dont remember price, but was not cheap) 3. DIY aux input posted somewhere long time ago. when 3.5mm cable is solidered directly on main board, cost around 2pounds, result is cd quality sound. 4. DIY aux in with 4 pole relay, that connects your player directly to oem amp, then volume is controlled trough your player, not head unit. as for amplifier output - can be done, allowing to connect sub to oem head unit.

I got some cheapo brake pads. They were something around 20 pounds. And - 0 dust and 0 loss in performance.

grab them changed mine last week, best investment in my car so far :D but to change them, thats a sh**load of work... whole hub has to come out. it took me and my friend ~2h of work per one side good luck ;)

this is what u need. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/REAR-STUB-AXEL-BUSH-IS200-ALTEZZA-/120732936776?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c1c3e6a48#ht_663wt_905 bought them yesterday, but a bit cheaper in my Jap car parts shop. hope to get them installed next week.

Dude.... Who the eFF did this to your car??

if those are brakes, then that sound should stop when brakes are pressed... mine keeps whistling...

I have the same sound. at speeds around 60km/h (~35mph) happens when weather is colder.

Me 2. good quality and fast shipping. you will need a press to be able to change them. everything else is pretty much DIY

I would check which circuit draws the most power. take out fuses one by one and check amperage with multi meter.

take it apart. remove main circuit board where those connectors are attached and looking at the bottom you will see that Toyota/Lexus did a great job and named each pin. that is how I figured out my pinout. hope that helps :)