is200 Newbie

Can anyone recommend what discs to put on the back - I had fitted Brembo on my last IS and they were fine with Mintex pads. Doesn't look like Brembo make for the 250 so its a choice at the moment of Mintex discs and pads or original Lexus ones and pads. The ones on the car are vented yet there's a lot being sold for this model on the web that are solid - I would like to stick to vented as that's what was on the car but is there any difference in fitting solids to vented if that's all I can find? Also any recommendations on what drum pads to buy? Also - if I can remember correctly, on the old IS200 there is a service hole on the rear drum discs to enable you to spin the drum pads in so the disc itself is easier to come off. Does anyone know what direction to turn the cog in the drum in order to do this (it was either up or down I think?)

There goes another £340 (Caliper / Carrier / Pads)

Done a bit of digging on this subject and found a PDF file from Lexus regarding this. The pins I have just cleaned are the pad guide pins (2 of) and the top slide pin. It looks like I have to remove the caliper itself to get at the lower slide pin if that has not seized in place. I am pretty sure with how the pads have worn that its the slide pin that's the problem (the one I have not removed) - hope so anyway - job for the weekend !

I don't think its the slider pins - by slider pins I mean the two pins that go through the pads themselves as these are now free after having a good clean.

I would like to meet the guy who put this car together - probably last minute Friday night shift worker using spare parts picked up from the canteen!!! Latest problem on the car ... Had the two rear tyres replaced tonight. Got to the tyre depot and when the wheels were off the car the guy changing them came over and said that there was a problem with the rear passenger side as it was hot, could feel the heat just standing there next to the wheel arch. You could actually smell the heat if that makes sense! Got it home and stripped it down - I know there was an issue on the old IS200 calipers where the slide pins used to seize on the fronts so thought it was something along those lines. Cleaned / greased as best as I could and put it back together - took it for a blast down the road to see if it would heat up again, got it back home and it was steaming hot again. I have put some pictures below but questions I have for this are .... 1/ by the looks of it both pads are seizing onto the disc with the inner most pad in the worst condition - you can see the wear just on the edge of the pad below in what looks like a crack - that is actually a slither of pad - both are the same but innermost pad has worn more I took the pads out and cleaned the slide pins which are now a lot easier to slide in and out. I also cleaned what I can only describe as a large slide pin at the top of the caliper - picture below (small piston sized) I took this pin out / cleaned and greased with Castrol LM grease (just a small covering on it - cleaned inside the chamber and screwed the pin back in. I thought there should be one on the bottom - there is, but there no noticeable way of removing it. Picture below There is a rubber seal but its not removable - I am guessing this will come apart when the calliper is removed from the car? (ignore the oil mark - I had used a bit of WD to release) As with the IS200 does this 250 have brake shoes within the drum? Anyone know the likely cause of the pads seizing and if its actually worth stripping the calliper down - I am thinking its the piston seizing although when I pumped the brake pedal it did move out slightly - I could not however get it back in that easy. Looks like the money pit will be having a bit more spent on it - anyone know the cost of a new caliper !!??

Yes - there are two stickers attached, one on filter and another on plastic engine cover. Quite surprised how much of a difference these make. One in wifes manual Tigra and she has noticed a difference (never told her I had fitted it)

A quick mod you can do is to change the stock air filter to a lifetime K&N oiled one - around £35 and will last the life of the car. You will initially notice the cars more responsive when in Drive until you get used to it. - Easy to do. Also you could reset your ECU to allow the car learn your driving habits. If its still under warranty then get the exhaust checked for rust / wear as its a very expensive replacement as I have found out.

Apologies - did not read the post well - you are using the correct additive BG244 - thanks Normski

The additive (which I also use) should clean the fuel system / get rid of carbon deposits etc and its good at what it does (yours is a diesel, I believe the BG44 is for petrol systems - there is another type for the diesel models - Someone please confirm this for me as I have only had a petrol) ..... the EGR valve controls the flow of exhaust gasses through the valve so it has no direct contact with the fuel. If the valve is gummed up or sticking it will have an effect on the car in that it will act erratically as it cannot remove the exhaust gasses enough or quick enough to give a good ignition. But yours is new.... If your EGR valve is sticking / dirty or the diaphragm (I think there may be two in this valve) is faulty then it can run well for a bit then stop then go again etc.. Back pressure from the exhaust has a major part to play in the operation of the valve as it uses vacuum to operate the valve correctly. If yours is new then I would question the compatibility of the valve fitted to the car. Is it the correct one they have fitted? Is the exhaust ok? Something is telling your ECU that there's a problem - if it was fuel starvation (the reason for using the additive BG44) then, through personal experience of this, there's no indication on the dash or any faults thrown back. If its an air intake issue then its more likely to light up the dash like a Christmas tree with the fault code to back it up when read as its an emissions fault. Also, running the car hot will not burn off deposits that are already formed - it may stop them from forming during use if your air flow/valve is working well to burn the fuel and emit the gasses, which again leads to EGR and air intake/crossover issues.

Hi Wilko - this sounds EXACTLY the same as an issue I had with a Vauxhall I used to run. Turns out it was the ERG valve / air mass meter that was at fault. Would not give any indication it was about to stop, would just do it and was quite frightening when you are travelling at 70 on the motorway and it happens. It was possible to, when it started to go, get it back by accelerating which would clear it temporary (pulling more air into the engine) Can you check the valve yourself to - 1: see if it has actually been cleaned and 2: how well its been cleaned. With the Vauxhall I had it also affected the plug closest to the running gear (belts etc) but this was only a 4 cylinder car - they did give a reason for this but I cant remember now what that was but I remember at the time thinking they were fobbing me off. It would be a good idea taking out the plugs to examine them but I have read this is a bi*"ch of a job to do - this would be a good indication of the state of the engine, fuel burning properly etc ...

I had an IS200 auto and always used it, or for most of the time anyway, drove it in drive selection on the box - I heard of recommendations that driving it for distances using the "gears" or long periods using them would damage the box. Is this the case with the 250? Can this be driven exclusively using the paddles or is it recommended to as with the IS200 keep this to a minimum. Petrol consumption would be higher but would it cause damage to the auto box?

I don't think its a problem but its different from the old IS and other cars I have had When I apply the windscreen washers the water from the jets, both passenger and drivers side, come out in one stream like a garden hose from each. Not a problem as they do the job but other cars I have had apply the water jet in a more uniform jet. I haven't checked to see if they have any small blockage as they work ok - just wondering it they do actually need a clean out? Anyone know what the water jet should be ?

I don't keep mine specifically to any level - providing its around half way and clean I am happy. Max and min is just a guide - if there was a specific level then there would be one mark to keep it to. Half way is fine - as with all cars just check regularly. One other point to mention is after a bit driving it after an oil change I would just do a quick check on the sump plug (just being cautious) to make sure its still tight.

I get the level right then start the car then re-check after, just to make sure the oil has worked its way through the engine components. A bit late for you now but I do think doing an engine flush prior to the oil change helps a lot as it thins the old oil down - I have never had any issues in doing this.

Try to find a long pipe cleaner such as this on ebay (item number 350804995802 ) but a bit longer If your stick is pulling up gunge from the leed pipe then may be worth you giving the pipe a clean so you can have a good reading but be careful you don't lose the pipe cleaner as there will be no retrieval. Put a bit of oil in the pipe when cleaning.

You should be able to see an oil film on the stick if it has been filled with the recommended amount. I always use an engine flush as it, I think amongst other things, it helps it drain better. Along with that I always empty the oil when its hot/warm so it runs out better. When it stops "dripping" I have always put a small amount of new oil in to flush the remnants of the old oil out and when it comes out clear I put the plug back on. Remember there will be a residual amount of oil left in the new oil can you used to refill. I presume you've done the change / cleaned the dip stick and re-inserted it and then checked it again to find no film on the stick.. I would run the engine for a bit then check again when its cooled down as 0.3 of a litre is negligible... top it up until you see an oil film on the stick.

Would be handy to know how its carried out and what oil has been used

The company I took mine to which was the closest to home is called CYBRAND in Ellesmere port, Cheshire. It would normally take them a full day to make and fit but I left it with them for 3 days as it was easier for me to arrange that way. Cost of the system was £375+Vat = £450 Although its just been done and I have had no issues it seems they have done a good job on the car. The system has a lifetime guarantee also.

I have been looking for one that blends into the style of the car and doesn't look like a jet fighter wing. I can only find a good selection of them on ebay from the USA - this one will ship to the UK - the ebay number is 181148817247 I think this will be the one I will be ordering

FINALLY - Cars back after having a new bespoke stainless exhaust system fitted. No real difference to the way it looks. Early days yet on how it performs as waiting for ECU to settle down after the battery was disconnected / re-connected. Sounds "meaty" compared to the original - sounds more sporty (bit noisier in cabin but I am thinking that when the boxes soot up a bit it will quieten down a bit? Driving it home I noticed the revs have dropped a bit (I think) - I had heard it can happen on bespoke exhausts - At 70mph in drive the revs are sitting steady at 2000 - is 2000 revs normal for others at 70mph? I am thinking the lower revs are better than higher revs in general as its not putting a lot of pressure on the engine?

Thanks James Also lost the CD titles in the display which was not an issue - just selected each again. Sat Nav previous destinations were also lost

I have had the battery disconnected on my car overnight while it was in a garage. I have reset the windows which was easy enough but are there any other things I need to reset etc (apart for the clock) I believe this will reset the ECU - would this explain the car being a bit sluggish while it "learns" the driving habits once again? Also the battery terminals are also dry (positive and negative) should these be coated with a lubricant (Vaseline etc) or are they ok to be dry? thanks

Don't know if its useful - just happened to have a quote yesterday from ATS Front 225/45 R17 - Avons £95 (budgets were £75) Rears 245/45 R17 - Avons £107 - no budgets available

As its real wheel drive its being pushed onto the ramps if you are raising the front of the car - just get someone to help to tell you when to stop. Line the ramps up central to the tyre - I have had no issue in this and have done it quite a few times. My car was on a set of these for 4 days with the back raised while I sorted exhaust out. Just be a bit careful when raising the back, just common sense really ... don't rev the engine too much to get up the ramp as they could be pulled under if the tyre grips on the ramp, again get someone to tell you when to stop. You will find it will cope very well in getting up the ramp safely when raising both the front and the back. Make sure your tyres are resting on the top flat of the ramp and not the slope and just to be safe chock the wheels that aren't raised.

Thanks James - that's a hell of a bit of work just to change the plugs - will post pics when I get the nerve in getting this done