is200 Newbie

Might sound like a daft response but is your fuel cap on securely - did the problem start shortly after refilling ?

Has the switch bulb gone? Turned my hazards on tonight - everything's fine but the light within the switch does not flash letting you know its on. The two indicator arrows on the instrument panel light up but the switch doesn't. Should it?

Just a question - not a problem for a change..... Would I be correct in thinking that when you reset the ECU on the 250 (by whatever means you do this) that this affects the car when driving while in the "drive" mode only and not the paddle shift manual mode? I was thinking this as the car makes its "own mind up" on how to drive when in drive mode after an ECU reset until it settles down (learns the driving style) But when driving it in manual mode (using paddle shift) after an ECU reset whereby the driver is in in control and not the car then it feels as responsive as it should. I think the above makes sense?! If I am correct in that then you can judge how well the ECU has "learned" your driving style by comparing it to when in the paddle shift manual option by how responsive it is in that mode .... It makes sense to think this but am I barking up the wrong tree???!!

It sounds certain that if you are having to smack the fuse box to resolve the problem then that's the location of the problem. As Shepard stated - look at the earthing points or at the fuse box connections to see if there are any loose connections or the possibility of a blown fuse that has not quite blown through An indication that there could be a power issue is that your windows have reset which happens when the battery has been disconnected.

I have been through all the recalls for the car when I was looking at what else could go wrong with mine, only a few weeks ago, I never saw any mention of a recall for the seat cushion. Mine is at 72k and is the same "firmness" as the passenger seat. It would, I would think, depend on the use the driver seat had in its "previous life" if its a second hand car. Possible the last owner did not carry a front passenger that much?

There is no warning message that stays on when you start up unless there is a fault - what's the message or do you mean the air bag display message? Where is the message showing (dashboard or instrument panel) The only chime I have found is when you are driving with the seat belt off - is it anything like that sound? Door or boot open will generate a chime Lights left on when exiting the car will generate a chime Parking too close to an item registering with your parking sensors - both front and rear - will set off a louder chime than above.

Unplug the negative battery lead and leave for 2 hours or overnight as most people do - connect it back up then drive the car as you would normally do and the ECU will learn your driving habits and adjust the engine accordingly. It will be a bit "sluggish" at first while it gathers the info but will settle down. You will need to reset your electric windows / radio channels but that's not hard to do.

I would have one again and again. After a years use purchase a regeneration pack (cleaner and oil around £10) - keep your old filter to use while the oiled one is being cleaned. I usually soak it in the solution overnight, dry it and then re-oil it but in the mean time put the old filter in so the car can be used. Its actually a good point in time to measure the difference in them both as you will feel the difference when its swapped over.. When putting the newly oiled one back in or putting it in for the first time reset your ECU. Maybe the people that don't report a difference don't reset theirs and the car gradually learns the new "setting" with not much noticeability to the driver...? The car will be a bit "tame" until it learns your driving style after the reset but you will feel the difference, I actually check mine every 6 months or so - when I had one in my IS200 the engine bay seemed to hoover up all the road dust so I cleaned it quite regularly. I have had the current filter in the 250 for just coming up for 6 months so will be checking that soon.

IS250 I have just taken it for granted that the check complete statement when starting the car is a good thing without knowing what's its reporting on as being checked .... What IS being checked?

I have fitted one on my 250 - It is noticeable especially in "drive" (if you have an auto) but you soon get used to it. I have always fitted them on the cars I have had - one has been put on my wifes Tigra and she does not know anything about cars but has noticed the increased throttle response especially when pulling away from junctions. I had one on my old is200 and as with my current car, did notice a difference. Based on the 3 cars I have had them in then yes there is a difference but measuring it against fuel economy I don't know. The type I have is a maintenance free oiled one.

If your can has come with a warranty then get the following checked before it runs out... Rear calipers - both - there was a recall a few years back for them seizing - they are expensive to replece. Chances are that if one has gone then the other will have gone also. If it comes with a full lexus history then you may, depending on the mileage and dealer, get lexus to replace at their own expense. Slide pins are the problem. Consider that if they have seized then the cars not been looked after so check the fronts also. I don't think the re-greasing of these are in any service schedule (correct me if I am wrong) ...It takes 10 minutes to check / re-grease each corner so a good indication of whether the cars been looked after as its a known problem. Exhaust - there is a weak spot on the centre piece just past the rear box next to the joint to the two back boxes - if its going to go it will be here first. Get this checked out (preferably while on a ramp) - again this is big money to replace.

Have just replaced both rears and fronts with Green Stars and there's absolutely no noticeable difference in the noise from the Dunlops that were on it before

Sorted - found a like to glass removal

Hi Shiplu - yes, I figured this out also I think it may be sticking so wondering how easy it is to remove the glass without breaking it.

I have noticed lately that the mirrors do not move down when reversing - I can adjust them all the way down and all the way up by using the direction button on the arm control. After doing this they do work when moving into reverse. Is it possible to clean the innards of the housing - would anyone have any instructions on how to remove the mirror glass safely They move well when adjusting via the button but is this an indication that the motors are on their way out or another problem?

That's a reasonable price for it - consider it new at £750 fitted ... Centre piece will set you back £1700 fitted - - I know this as I have just gone through the process of replacing mine. I advertised the spare box I had as a result on ebay as free to collector when I had it replaced with the new stainless system but had no interest so threw it away. Just wanted it gone but no one wanted it, shame really. Mild steel is standard for the system on the car. I would have to question the mileage on the car that you have found that these boxes are from - don't only consider the mileage but also the year of the car as a lot of short journeys will rot the system quicker. Be very careful not to damage the centre piece you are connecting this to, I cant stress this enough unless you have the money to replace it if something goes wrong. They are only available from the main dealer and are on a long lead time if you order one.

Thanks for the link - now I have noticed it its really obvious.

Maybe just a "bad un" as they say but while I have been on the forum I have added to the list of common faults I thought I would put a list together of the faults I have experienced on the one I have Car is a 250 SE-L 2007 with 72k on the clock with a FSH (bought with 70k on the clock) Owned since May so have had it just over 6 months. 1/ Fuel starvation issues - BG44 cured (two cans in the past 6 months) £30 2/ Oil filter cap removal problems - needed garaging to get on ramp as cap would not come off £10 3/ Exhaust - car was off the road for almost 6 weeks from start to finish but now done. Long story ! £500 4/ Rear tyres - one slow puncture and one low - replaced with Avons £250 5/ Front tyres - low and will be done in a few weeks time (in time for the snow which the car cant cope with anyway!) £200 6/ Front discs - Warped - need replacing £250 7 / Front pads - Low, doing with the discs £40 8/ Rear passenger caliper and carrier - seized and doing at weekend £320 9 / Rear pads - low and doing at the weekend £40 10/ Rear discs - in a few weeks time £240 11/ Leaky door seal - putting up with for now £? 12/ Front centre speaker panel loose but not rattling - not an issue at the moment £? 13/ Front wiper arms I have noticed are all bubbling with rust. £? Admittedly a lot of these are wear and tear you would expect to replace during ownership but with the length of time I have had this its been a car from hell but I suppose when all the jobs are done it will be a pleasure to drive as other than the above its spotless (so far) Total cost so far with myself doing the work and running around for parts etc £1457 I am quite confident that the above from a dealer would have cost somewhere in the £5000 region for the parts and labour.

....also ... may just be my car as I seem to be having a run of bad luck with it lately, car from hell Seal on the driver door seems to be noisy when driving. It has also let water in on one point on the upper part of the seal.

Not a lot of faults but replacements parts for this car are expensive - Another one you could consider is the carbon build up which does need a clean every so often. Also - I agree with the rear brake caliper slide pin issue of them seizing up, was the same on the is200 but on the fronts on them (replacing one side on my 250 at the weekend so am a bit apprehensive on what else this will unearth) Also consider front discs especially on the auto version, mine need replacing at 72k.

This is the first time I have noticed this and I have only noticed it really when its been pitch black during the past few weeks. Has anyone else experienced this .... - when I have the lights on, main beam (not full or dipped beams) and go around a corner, the lights turn with the car and then straighten out when on a straight. Its not that noticeable but once you see it happen then you see it happen all the time. I cannot find any info about this - does this car have the adaptive lights you see on others. When it has happened on mine its only at low speeds? I thought it could be the auto levelling for the HIDs but don't think it would adjust horizontal from left to right.

The parts that were replaced were (from the rear of the car) the two back boxes / pipework up to the first box / the box itself and then a length of pipe up to the cats (cat back system). Original cats / manifold are still on the car. I only wanted a replacement exhaust - wasn't interested in a sports one - as it is now it looks like an original one. Wasn't prepared to pay for the rip off price I was quoted as I knew there were other jobs on the car I needed to do.

Had the caliper and carrier delivered today Looks like an easy job to replace - also looks like an easy part to maintain so I will strip the other side down and clean etc. Will be using Castrol high temp LM grease for the sliders Have gone for Mintex rear pads, will replace these for the time being - need to do the discs at a later date and will go for OEM vented ones when I do.

Thanks - there are a lot of good posts on here - it helps having a good forum against one of these cars to help people that don't mind getting their hands dirty in maintaining their cars. Update on the exhaust is that while its noisier than a stock one it is quietening done now as its being used - sounds sporty outside but a bit noisy in the cabin which I expect to get better with use. A compromise I have made against the high cost of an original replacement part.

Not had one fitted to the 220 but had one fitted on the 250 and no where near Dundee but about 250 miles away in Cheshire. Cost was £450 for a s/s cat back system centre piece and twin back boxes. quality of work was good. A bit noisy at first at low speed but it is quietening down now after I am guessing its sooting up a bit. I have learnt that the ss exhausts are noisier than stock, most noticeable in the cabin but it will quieten down with use (usually after approx. 1-2000 miles). It actually sounds very good outside, low rumble. The exhaust for this car is only available from Lexus - sit down before you read the replacement cost for the system Centre piece = £1700 Twin back box = £700 Its a "consumable" item that IS at some point going to fail - mine went at 70k miles and was 6 years old. Its not something I would mess with due to the cost of replacement if anything went wrong but that's just me. I had no choice as mine had failed and I had nothing to lose.