is200 Newbie

If its a stainless steel one there should be a lifetime warranty with it which I suppose if you are planning to keep the car then its worth it. The noise has kind of ruined my driving experience inside the cabin on mine a bit but I am gradually getting used to it - sounds good outside though. That's why I was asking if they could assure you of the sound level as at first its hard to get used to - constant hum - certainly from mine anyway but I have the centre silencer so may be different on yours. Ask if they can ship the old exhaust to your home - put it on ebay and put the money you sell it for against the new one.

Hi Stuart I would be interested to see how well yours sounds. Had mine done a few months ago, albeit a 2007 IS250, its a good well made system but I have found it a bit noisy for me. It is quietening down a bit now I have had it in use for a bit. It may get quieter in time. I had a replacement cat back / centre silencer box and rear twin pipes but with mine being an auto it seems to be noisy in the lower rev range and doesn't sound right when in Drive due to the car when not on a run constantly looking for the right gear to be in when driving round. Do you have an assurance from the manufacturer that the car will be quiet - inside the cabin for example.

Any more details on the car you are looking at - mileage / model / condition etc... I need to do my plugs soon but believe its a right B*tch to do ... just by what you need to removed on the left bank just to get to them - its good having a mechanic on the forum - maybe if you change them you could do a walk through on how they are done. They are quite expensive at around £100 -£120 for a set of 6 but they do have a 100k lifespan. The SE-L is the top spec model - look for the Mark Levinson logo on the cd player - if you have this then you have the surround sound and reversing camera fitted. The only think missing from these cars in my opinion is a sunroof which I would much rather have than the air con. Did you manage to get it checked over?

I have fitted these K&N oiled filters to all the cars I have had in the past 5 years, both auto and manual and have seen improved results in each. Vauxhall Astra SRI (manual) I fitted this in and noticed a difference when pulling away / accelerating at junctions. Lexus IS200 (auto) I fitted it and found improved responsiveness when in Drive - never noticed a drop in MPG - no sensor failure etc. Vauxhalll Tigra (manual) - Wifes Car - replaced the stock one for the K&N with out telling her and she did comment on what I had done to it as it was quicker pulling away at junctions. Lexus IS250 (auto) I fitted this and as per the 200 I had I noticed a difference in Drive in that it was more responsive. Didn't notice a difference in the gears but find these a bit hard to judge. No sensor failures If in any doubt keep your old filter and put it back in if not happy - Keep the old filter anyway as when you need to clean the oiled one then just swap them both over until the K&N one is cleaned. Its not going to add jet engine power to the car but you will feel a difference. I changed mine without resetting the ecu - doing this you will see the difference - its up to if you want to reset it - I didn't as I thought the ecu would adjust to the new filter and has done no problem. I re-oil mine every 6 months as opposed to the recomended 12 months

Hi Adam I have just done mine a few weeks ago on a 250 - replaced both which was really easy to do. I would assume they are the same as the 220 ...? I managed to free up the ones I took from my car also which, with a bit of heat and WD40, freed up real easy so I have a spare set now. Have a go yourself as its not a hard job to do and will give you an insight on how they work also (the slide pins do need greasing up on a regular basis - not done in the service schedule I don't think). Two bolts will remove the caliper from the car - I found on both of mine that it wasn't the removable slide pin that had seized but the carrier pin which is fixed to the carrier. When sourcing new calipers on these be aware that there are a couple of different parts I have found that fit the same year. You will need the code from the caliper that's stamped on the unit itself - either 10 R 43 or 18 L 43 The R & L donates left or right - I don't know what the numbers correspond to but you want to match what you have on the car (either L or R) to what you order (that is if you do order them and not repair)

Wow .... sounds striking similar to the experience I received from Vauxhall a few years ago where they left me with no where to turn. What goes around comes around so they say .... I had big problems with my Astra melting plugs and burning oil. After 8 months of hassle this led me to part ex the car back to a Vauxhall dealer at a good price for my first Lexus 200. I bought a 250 after losing the 200 to flooding and have regretted it ever since.

Have read the thread on the automotive forums on the web for water cylinder decarbonizing Quite a lot of information there from someone that's done this with step by step instructions on how he done it ... Only one thing I noticed was that everyone that was doing this to their cars were doing it on pre 2001 cars - didn't see any mention of anyone trying it on newer cars. Sounds promising though but would like to see some results on what happens to the plugs / sensors and cat while doing this - due to the cost of replacing these then it could be a very expensive experiment. I do remember myself doing something similar a long long time ago to an old Morris Marina I had - I had done something similar in cleaning the cylinders out on the engine and this was by way of pouring redex into each cylinder (through the spark plug hole) and waiting for a bit. Turning the car over to remove the excess liquid then putting the plugs back in and then starting. I do remember then that this created a hell of a lot of smoke but cant remember what result it had in doing it - back then it was easier to play around tith older cars.

Hi Shepherd - have you used the seafoam? How did you apply it, with the petrol or direct through the vacuum?

Just tried to find more details and found a local garage to me that I might contact for further details, price etc - the link below is to the TerraClean web site and you can find a local garage offering the service www.terraclean.co.uk

Sorry - too early in the morning for using a keyboard - Title should read CARBON BUILD UP - not Carbob !!!!

This may be useful information for people experiencing the carbon build up on their cars. I have just watched the "Wheeler Dealers" program with Ed China de-carbonising a Jag XK8 using a "fuel system decarboniser" machine Shown on Discovery shed on sky channel 242 - should be on again as I recorded it on Sunday 29th Dec. He explains the process of what has happened and what will happen when completed and he shows the before and after results which were amazing. He quoted the work at around £70 but I don't know how recent the programme is? I will be looking for a garage that has this service...

There are a few checks you can do that could initially save you quite a bit of money in possible repairs but you would need to ask, I would assume, if you could check these as it would involve taking the wheels off / putting car on ramp etc. Don't know if the AA still do a check on cars or if they would do the following... Exhaust - ramp required (noisy exhaust would indicate blowing, black soot marking on exhaust would indicate holes etc in exhaust system..) Tyres - inner wear - quite a quick initial check (check rotation of tyres are correct) if they are on the wrong way then its not only dangerous but an indication the garage you are buying the car from may have done this to hide the wear to unwary buyers. If so, be very wary as you don't know what else they may have covered up... Brake calipers - you need the wheels off to check this - you are looking for seized calipers / worn discs. You can check this on the rear wheels by taking the car for a good run, when parking up after driving about 10 mins or so just touch the alloy wheel (or carefully, the disc itself) - if one is hotter than the other then the hotter one would in most cases indicate there's a seized caliper which is causing the brake pad to bind against the disc.. Front is harder to tell - but could be done if wheel off and cars on ramps - check for caliper movement (in / out) by compressing piston / carriage assy. Brakes are easy to check at home when you own the car, 15 mins per corner to re-grease the pins and check calipers. If not too far gone then seized calipers can be brought back to life quite easily. Noisy dash board - have not experienced this myself but can be found on the forum. Door seal - my drivers side door seal has gone (I think) door is chattering away but seal does look good - have not had a chance to look at this yet. Just nit picking on this fault really. Carbon build up - its not easy to pin this down - I think my car has it as I have had the symptons of it but I have used the fuel additive BG44 and it has worked for a while but I had the symptons again on Friday this week when I started the car up after sitting for a few days. How to tell is that the car "shivers" and the revs go mental through 1k - 2k rpm. I will carry on using the additive - have used it twice now in the 6 months I have owned the car - I can only presume its slowly clearing the build up. The only symptom I have has been whats best described as a shiver and the rev needle does a dance around but it will go if you rev it up once - car otherwise is ok on this point. Plastic engine cover over the cylinders has broken clips on mine Alloy wheels from this manufacturer are poor - they corrode and there's no getting away from this if you are keeping the car for a few years. Other than the noisy dash board, the above sums up the faults I have had on my car during the past 6 months - I could have spend thousands in putting it right but have done almost all the work myself and found alternatives to keep the cost down. Exhaust replacement (centre piece = £1700 fitted) I had a stainless cat back fitted for £450 (Cybrand - Ellesmere Port) Tyres which I have recently replaced all 4 tyres with Avons at £480 (Local tyre depot) Calipers I have replaced the rear two at £400 for the two (One OEM / other recon from Ebay) Front discs and brake pads all round from Brembo supplier £140 BG44 I have used two tins of this at £14 per tin from internet Engine cover is not on my urgent list but I can source this for £100 (breakers) Total cost for repairs for the 6 months of ownership has been just under £1500 - I don't think the car was looked after by the previous owner although it did have a full lexus service history when I bought it so it must have had a bad year before I bought it!!? but now all the works been done (or most of it) I don't expect to be paying out on it for a bit I hope - the next fault it thrown up that's not on the list above I will be selling it for a smaller car. Don't let this put you off if I haven't already .... I think it just highlights the importance of doing the checks before hand before buying and if finding any it will put you in a good spot in haggling with the price. An AA check if it offers any come back against the above will be well worth the money.

Hi Kings Check the exhaust on the car you are looking at - if its on its way out then the part is only available from lexus and its not cheap at all. If at all possible get it on a ramp to view it especially at the union between the back boxes and the centre section.

1 / have fitted an oiled K&N filter - results are noticeable 2 / - 3 / Have fitted boot and roof spoiler which was from ebay (could not find suitable from anywhere else) - will post you a pic if you need to see what it is like. Paint match was spot on and fitting simple. 4 / Plan to do a rear diffuser which I have found in a store from USA - will post a pic if you need 5 / Again - plan to do a front lip which I have found in a store from USA - have a few to chose from - will post a pic if you need 6 & 7 / Have had a stainless cat back exhaust fitted - the resonator is noisy and am thinking of changing it as its spoilt the car. 8 / I would like to do the alloys - I like the facelift IS ones but I have just bought 4 new tyres on 17's so will be a while before I look to do this. 9 / Am looking to do the auto mirror closure in January 10 & 11 / Might change the puddle lights when doing the auto mirror mod and my mirror motor needs a clean also so best time to do it I think 12 / -

Spot on Bratman - the libations didn't have that much of an effect ...

PilgrimIS I will be buying the kit after the new year and hoping to install it in January / February and have been in contact with the company selling this if you pm me I will send you his email address - not sure if he would appreciate it shown on line

Nice car Chris --- much prefer the 200 to the 250 (more reliable)

Hi Rick Thanks for the offer - am a bit too far away - North Wales

1 / I don't think there's any rule on this point - I have had an auto for a few years now and I do keep my foot on the brake when shifting into N or D but I don't use N a lot. I guess the thinking on this is that it doesn't expectantly lurch forward if the revs are high when cold etc... as Phil stated above, its best for safety. 2 / You can select S from D and visa versa while driving - I drove to Wolverhampton (journey for me of just over 100 miles each way) last week for our works Christmas do and both there and back due to the winding a roads I was switching between S and D a lot of the journey while moving. 3 / Foot on the brake when at lights is fine - no need to put in park - I remember having a conversation with an engineer at a brake disc manufacturer years ago when I had brake issues on my 200 and he recommended taking your foot off the brake at junctions due to the possibility it could ruin your discs ... I had warped discs at the time so the jurys out on that one. I was also unsure recently if I could drive the car fully in the S mode using the paddles and was told it would not be an issue - on the old 200 it wasn't recommended to drive for long periods in this mode but for the 250 it is fine to do so, just make sure to keep an eye on the revs as it reaches the red line pretty quick.

Thanks Shepard Quite a bit of info on the video - hopefully wont need to use it but think its a handy thing to have. Will have a look at other options before deciding cheers

Just spotted these on ebay Item number 261357903872 I am not selling these or associated in any way to them - just spotted them at this good price

Is there a recommended reader I can buy for looking at fault codes my car may throw up IS 250 2007 Don't want to spend a lot - just a reading machine that will show me the fault code and possibly what the code links to? Anyone out there got one that works well that can recommend?

Hi Jason it depends on what parts you are looking for as to where you look for thme - I had used www.japarts.co.uk for parts when I had my 200 and have also used them for my 250. Company is reliable and have most parts that you will need. Wheels - I would use ebay as there is quite a good choice of OEM and after market ones on there - like Ian said above, there are no updates for the sat nav. Drive belts - if they are cracked I woud get them done ASAP - 2 years ago I had mine replaced at around 60k but I put it into the dealer to do this due to the importance of getting them done properly and that cost me £300 for cam and all other belts fitted.

Hi Steve I had exactly the same issue with Argos (although not for a tree) Bought an "in stock" tumble drier and chest freezer last month only to find after paying for them and having a delivery date for within two days time i took a phone call two days after from them to say it would be just over two weeks for delivery. Sent a complaint to the MD of Argos and had a company "customer server" email me back with the offer of a £30 voucher which i turned down on the principal of it. Its wrong what they do just to secure the custom - if they were upfront and said it would be two weeks delivery they i could have lived with it but organising ourselves around an expected delivery which never happened was just a bit of a farce. I believe it happens a lot as well. We were refunded and went elsewhere. Unfortunately they would not fit in my car when we bought them so we paid for delivery.

Would anyone know if 2007 saw a facelift or an update to the 2007 IS250 SE-L model I have purchased a few parts for mine lately but found there are a few options available for the same part ... I have replaced discs and calipers - I have vented discs front and back on mine but know that solids were also on these cars in this year. I also have the dynamic radar but think this is an optional extra? It would be handy to know if there was a 2007 update to the model ... thanks