KentIS300

I just did the front... slided it all the way down, and that maxed out... the lights. They "seem" ok ... but might need slight more. I need to check the rear.. as they shaking still happens., Maybe the rear is the one causing the problems.

I take it this is the one I am meant to adjust on the front. (Just took a picture) It seems in a good shape. I have just bathed it with WD40 ... will check the rear as well tomorrow... and see what shape it is too. (weather not very good at the moment) once I confirm that everything is well then I will adjust. :)

That does look a really nice example. Make sure to see what the 15month warranty covers? it has to cover engine/ and gearbox for the piece of mind. And I would request a compression test with the results printed so yuo have the peace of mind to. And make sure you test drive one ... to see if you like it lol :)

I will have a look at this tomorrow. I realised today that the visible adjustor nut is the one that adjusts horizontal ... hence no movement when I was doing it. The hidden screw nut is the one that should adjust the height. I think before I do anything else .. better to look into the control arms of the sensors. Is there one on the front and one on the rear? I take it they will be on one of the front arms and one on the rear arms?

Hello guys, Am I missing something here? I tried to "lift" the light higher by using my philips screw driver and rotating the adjuster "disk nut" but ... no movement at all. I tried to do both lights but they are not moving at all. The car was on and running with the lights on. Also if you gently slam the outside of the light they will do vibrate a bit. Is there a chance that both the lights are broken and cannot be adjusted?? The automatic leveling is working fine, when I turn on the lights the first time they do the up and down sweep. Any ideas?

I know tell me about it ... was trying to think of excuses to keep it for more lol

Much better to have this protection, as the one on my old LS430, the lock was so stuck.... that when the battery was flat, it would not unlock. I had to literally quad soak with with WD40 and 5 hours later it worked! :( ... The trick via the light in the boot did not work for me :(

Just to wet your apetite, this is my old RX8 231 :) Gutted I sold it, but at least it made the new owner very happy.

The R3 edition (came out I think 2008 onwards?) has an extra oil injection in the engine burning chamber to improve lubrication and supposingly reliability of the rotors. It has nicer seats inside and LED rear lights, 2 stage rev-counter (cold and warm .. .different rev bands) however the R3 has the less reliable 6 speed gearbox same as used in the MX-5. The good things with the RX-8 is should the engine go wrong rebuilding them by a reputable specialist costs on average about £1500 ... which is not much. Taken in consideration a cambelt and a dmf clutch can cost up to £2K ... lol The key with those cars is ... make sure you get it compression tested by the a good specialist.. (do not trust that Mazda would exactly know how to do one... and they charge a lot of money.) A specialist would charge maybe £30-£40 for a compression check. This will show the health of the rotor tips. Also the way they are started up ... warmed up and never switch off when cold... etc, this is what makes the longevity of the engine. Unfortunately it is not a car that you get in start the engine and go straight away. You have to follow "the sequense" But I really liked that, as it made it special. And the way you cherish them matters. They do like to be thrushed once every 2 weeks... get the revs to red, as this clears carbon deposits on the rotor tips. They do not like to be driven slow. lol.

Having owned 2 RX8's one 192 and my last 231. The 231 is much better to the 192. Oil consumption is a myth.... use good quality mineral oil in the engine and some good quality 2 stroke in your fuel every now and then.., I had mine for almost 2 yrs and I did not use more than 1lt of oil for 12.000miles But again the oil use is purely down to how heavy right foot you have, the more abuse the engine gets the more oil the pump will use to lubricate the rotors. With regards to the fuel consumpsion it is one of these strange cars... lol regardless how you drive it, it will burn a lot of fuel. I used to do 290miles from one fuel tank on mine. Now the performance is another thing, it does not read fast on paper, but it is a light car. It is a front mid engined car, and handles really well. Engine sound is brilliant and the more you floor it... the better it gets. While the others cars are looking to change the gear... the RX8 has much more RPM to go just before 10k.

Got this very very nice RX450h F-Sport on an extended 24hr test drive.... I do love it... but not as fast as the GS450h... Have to give it back tomorrow ... and pick back my GS450h ... lol :)

I got my car back today. A big thank you to Richard at Hybrid Solutions he has done an excellent job. :) Car is working great with no annoying errors anymore and economy has improved drastically :)

Hi Jason, The GS at the moment is with Richard Hybrid Battery Solutions, waiting to be sorted hopefully by end of this week :) In the meantime 2 weeks ago I had replaced the bearings in the gearbox pump as a precaution as I did not want to have the battery fixed and pottentially damage it by a faulty pump. Cheers Vasilis.

old thread resurection. But I put here the most likely cause to the problem. I had the same symptom to mine GS300 '98 model and the problem was the "swelling" of the rear hubs. They get rusty internatly... and they wear off the teeth of the ABS rings. So the sensors cannot pick up correct the gaps etc. The sensors are fine in most cases with no damage like it was at mine. The fact you loose the speedo, it is the both wheels loose signal at some point... which indicates issues on both hubs. If you have problem to one wheel only the speedo should not fail. But you will have the lights on the dashboard (christmas tree like lol)

I have done the bearing replacement yesterday to my '56 GS450h, thought it was best to do before I take it for the HV battery repair (two blocks failing). The whole process was easy, however the 3 philips screws were a pain to remove... they needed a bit hammering in order to remove. The bearings were dry and noisy have not failed yet though. I installed the new ones and the pump did sound better. At least I prefented a failure. I noticed water was trying to get in the pump, so put some silicon spray on the rubber seals and also some black sealant to insulate it a bit better.

Yesterday when I done the bearings of the transmission pump, I removed the bulbs again and reinstalled them again. Swapped them over they seem a bit better (I can see the road) lol but I think they need adjustment ponting too low. Is there any guide or something on where are the up and down screws? I have a friend with an MOT station I can take it there to adjust on the machine.

I take it not many have experienced problems with lights :( ...

Hi John, I know I will be shot down in flames, I too find the Prius lights stronger and my '54 Prius lenses are not cleaned either lol. I have to say though I do find the "sideways" bulb installation in the GS450h a bit strange... but I assume Lexus knew better when they were designing it. Cheers Vasilis

Well guys, I have sorted out a couple of few problems here and there. Need to detail the car inside out... but have to wait for a couple of decent days off from work as it is mad at the moment lol :) Cannot complaint though. Anyhow ... I have the following issue with the lights, the car has very very VERY poor light performance, to the point the fog lights were brighter to the dipped beam! yeah that bad. So I ordered some Osram Xenarc D4S - ORIGINAL 66440 4300K, while I had all the plastics removed I washed, cleaned the engine so it is nice and clean in there :) so pleased with that outcome at least. Now back to the lights, removed old bulbs, they had no writing on there so no idea what make/model were they. They were dim and also blueish colour. Like they were not igniting enough (maybe they were D2S)? I installed the new bulbs and clipped them in position. I have noticed much improvement over night, but I still think something is not quite right yet. First of ... when I go in a hard pot hole, I get a flick on my lights... not sure if it is a problem with the auto-height adjustment or a loose connection? I hadn't have time to look into this yet. The height sensors are they located on the back axle or the front? The new driver side bulb looks a bit with a tinge so might be a faulty bulb? But seems to perform OK eitherwise. Might be unfair, but I compare the lights with my 745i Xenon lights (D2S) and my Honda Legend KB1, to be honest I am sure my Lexus IS300 factory Xenon was better performing than this. Would my hybrid battery problem affect the operation of my lights? Finally the AFS is not working, no warning lights or errors. When I go in the Techstream to check the functionality I cannot make it come off the OFF. It seems totally unresponsive? Any ideas? Some pictures of the car, By the way I am really in love with the colour. It has some great effects or Grey, Purple, Mauve.

I am booked to go to Richard beginning of October :) so looking forward to a proper running car :)

The similar system on my Honda Legend was working from 5mph and above. Having had an RX400h before I remember the AFS was working around 25ish mph and above. However I only changed the bulbs today, trust me my lights were so poor I could not see what were they doing. I do not think it is working though. I am installing a new TIS latest version on my laptop and will do a proper complete scan to see if there is anything there.

I have replaced my "noname bulbes" they had nothing written on them, so I only assume they were D2S, hence they were like candle sticks and very blue colour. I have ordered some Osram Xenarc D4S and just installed them today, but I have to say although a massive improvement to the previous bulbs, they are no where near as strong headlights I used to have on my Honda Legend D2S's and on my BMW 745i D2S's . I still cannot understand why my AFS is not working :( .... no malfunction on the dash and the system is not switched off.

To be honest my way of thinking was, better to buy a car at a "cheap" price with a known fault. Rather than buy a car knowingly good and at normal price and a couple of months later the hybrid failing on me. At least I know what repairs etc are done under my ownership rather taking somebody's word :)

The link no longer work :(

I have booked it in with Richard, Hybrid Battery Solutions. Shall be going in the 3rd of October :) watch this space, looking forward to a fully working GS.