maneesh

Here is a review of the system I found on the web. http://www.whatpc.co.uk/Products/Hardware/1151619 I'm defo considering it for my LS400. Seems like a cracking deal.

There's a farmer due in the US who has a 1990 model with 555,000 miles. He was featured in the US version of Lexus magazine. Mind you he just drives straight for 90 miles each way to the farm, so that might be why :winky:

IMHO, most cars are reliable if looked after from new, sticking to the service schedule and replacing everything that needs replacing. With Lexus, sticking to the recommended maintainance is even more critical. I've had my 92 for 6 years now. I bought it with 110k and taken it up to 170k. It has cost a lot to maintain, but to be fair, it hasn't been unreliable. I've merely spent more than average to keep the mechanicals in A1 condition. I don't like driving cars with crap tyres, or worn out brakes. It's always passed MOTs with no problem, and fuel and oil consumption has not changed at all in 6 years. The only things that went wrong are, both front headlamp bulbs, battery, and one rear taillight bulb. It all depends on what you want from a car. The high mileage Mk4 may well have lots of stone chips on the front, and may not have been washed very often, thus dulling the paintwork. However, it's likely to have been company owned and maintained properly, and spent most of it's life on the motorway with less suspension wear than city roads. The lower mileage Mk2 or Mk3 may well look a lot nicer and have fewer stone chips, but the maintainance may have been skipped on if owned privately. Plus, it may have been driven very few miles each time (no time for engine to warm up), and may have been driven on city roads only (speed bumps increasing suspension wear). Overall, Lexus' aim is the relentless pursuit of perfection. So, the newer the car, the fewer design faults exist, as Lexus improved each generation quite a bit. Go for a high mileage Mk4, but owned by a large company with ALL the previous invoices for each service to make sure nothing was missed out. If it's just got stamps in a service book only, just walk away. Plenty of cars around to choose from if you have time to look. Again, IMHO, budget around £1000 a year for proper maintainance of these cars, or even for any luxury car. It is a 50 grand car after all, not a 12 grand Corolla.

Yeah, why not, and use the money saved to buy a LS430 ;-)

Greybeard: Clarify one thing for us. I've seen many postings in the US about fixing the blacked out LCD panels. So if your new unit being fitted is imported from the US, will it be a UK spec display? The US spec displays have everything the other way round, including the buttons. Plus the temp gets displayed in F, not C. Thanks.

try Tesco, they seemed to be quite cheap for a lot of folk on this website. I personally have zero no claims, and I went with Dorset Insurance Group via this website, and they saved me £1,500 compared with every other quote! Get at least 10 quotes!

For someone who is never driving above 2000rpm, that is BAD fuel economy. Even when driving the car with a very heavy right foot and lots of kickdown, I've never got less than 14mpg. You sound be getting 18-20mpg with your style of driving. I agree with Colin, plus: When were spark plugs last changed? Are fuel injectors dirty? Perhaps buy that bottle you add to full tank which can help clean the inside of the engine. How clean is the engine oil? When was the oil filter last changed? Are you driving with the windows open all the time? This can seriously affect drag. HTH.

To be honest, if you are concerned about fuel economy, then it sounds like you wouldn't have the cash to keep the car on the road. Realistically, on the budget you have you will get a mint condition Mark 1, 1990-1992. I have a 1992 model and the engine has always been looked after, I get about 18mpg around town, and the most I have ever got was 32mpg on the motorway with cruise set at 70mph. Again, the mark 1 versions had service intervals of every 6,000 miles or 12 months, whatever comes first. Services are A, B and C. You'd be a fool to get such an old Lexus serviced at the main dealer, unless you are made of money. Independent dealers are still a rarity. In my experience, at Lexus main dealers, A services are 200, B services are 350, and C services are 500. Bear in mind, that the cost of the service excludes things like brake pads, cambelt change. The early cars tended to eat pads. A C service with lots of additional items can soon come up to 1,000 quid if the car needs work. See my other posting in relation of what to be wary of when looking for these cars. Finally, 90-92 cars in your budget will probably have worn suspensions, so budget for getting bushes etc changed. The engine mounts and transmission mount will probably need replacing too at that age. These rubber mounts are what help to make the cars super smooth. Have a nice holiday and good luck in your search.

A taboo subject maybe, but since my LS400 has been in the bodyshop after my crash, they've given me a two BMW hire cars, one after the other. In the past, I have driven an IS200 Auto for one day. So, I thought I would give my feedback. First time ever driving BMW. I'm comparing to the IS200 Auto I drove which had 17" alloys. Both BMWs had 2 litre engines, so why do they write 318 on the back then! Car1. 12 month old 318Ci, manual shift. 16" alloys (205/55/16). Ride significantly worse than IS Exhaust flimsy sounding compared to IS Crap basic equipment Interior dark and gloomy Singleplay CD/radio is weak with little bass (my 12 year old LS sounds beefier) Brakes not as good as IS Handling was on par with IS, but was a bit fidgety also Engine revs freely all the way to 6500 redline Valvetronic which means you get another dose of power around 4000rpm Engine was doing 2,800rpm in top at 60mph Car2. 6 month old 318i auto saloon with steptronic box. 17" alloys (225/45/17). As couple plus, Horrible lumpy ride - feel every bump Tramlines so badly - never had that issue with the IS Same bog standard spec - ooooh, but comes with a centre armrest Engine feels noiser in this to coupe, and so much noiser compared to IS Sounds like a tractor compared to IS Not that quick to downshift compared to IS Has steptronic (which IS didn't when I drove it), but very slow to react. Took 2 seconds to get into second gear after manually shifting from 3 to 2. Dangerous if you ask me! I don't understand why people make so much of a fuss about these cars. IMHO, the IS was much much nicer to drive, particularly round roundabouts! Much more surefooted and sharper.

Welcome to the club! Firstly, compare like with like. Compare the LS400 with A8s, XJ8s, S-classes, 7-series. For the money, many people think it does a superior job to it's rivals. It's certainly easier on petrol and servicing than other makes which sell V8 luxury cars, but compared to your A6, any V8 engined car will cost more to run. Parts for LS400s can be obtained reasonably cheaply from the US, even after accounting for postage and packing. Not sure about independent dealers in Manchester. There's a few down south, but generally independent Lexus dealers are still a rarity. You will quickly get used to the torque and silence of the V8 engine. You will never look back after you get it. Well, probably a lot of looking in the rear view mirror to see the dust left behind as you smoke another hot hatch at the lights! What do you value in a car? If you value: Total silence Pillowlike ride being insulated from the road so that you have less "steering feel" Well designed ergonomic interiors Plenty of low down torque to make driving and overtaking simply effortless the ability to cruise for hours and hours without feeling shattered Plenty of room A super high STANDARD spec with all the goodies World class reliability (read the websites to read about electric gizmos going wrong so much on Mercs and Beemers) This could well be your ideal car... However, if you like a firm ride and handling and grip are top priority, go for an A8 or 7-series. LS400s are built to a VERY high standard, and with proper maintainance they will last a long time and be problem free. However, IMHO you get two types of secondhand LS400s. a) Cars owned and run by people neglected to replace parts at the right time because they just couldn't afford to run it, and let the car deteriorate over time. B) Cars owned and run by people who keep the car in A1 condition all the time (more likely to be big companies who have dedicated budgets for things like servicing) Don't simply go on mileage on these cars, find out what how regularly items been changed on the car (all fluids, brake discs, suspension items, cambelt, filters). Look at past service invoices to check whether the previous owner actually did what the garage recommended needed doing. If you buy a car of type a) you will need to take out a second mortgage. Good luck, you will need it, there are too many crappy cars out there. Bear in mind, that it's a luxury car, not an executive or a regular top of the range car.

Anyway, this bmw courtesy car that I am driving at the moment has very little road noise indeed. Super quiet on all roads, and way, way quieter than my expensive Dunlops and Michelins. That puzzles me. So, I looked at the tyres and saw they are Bridgestone Turanzas. Here is the link, wonder if any LS400 owners have tried them? http://www.bridgestone-eu.com/articles.asp?ID=134 However, they only do 205/65 15s in a H speed rating. I think it must be quieter because it's got a single tread design. My Dunlop SP Sport 01s and Michelin Pilot Primacys have very fashionable multi-tread designs, which may explain greater road noise. So do other owners have multi-tread or single tread designs? Quiet or noisy tyres?

Thanks guys for your messages of support! Lexus have had the car for over a day now, and no news of whether it's going to be repaired or not. Oh well! The beemer is a strange car, I think that other drivers must reckon I'm a BMW driving prat since nobody gives me way or lets me sneak into gaps. With my LS400, people probably took pity on me thinking I was borrowing my grandad's car!!!!

This link explains what floating calipers are all about. http://www.off-roadweb.com/tech/0401or_brake/

Well, the recovery truck took my baby away today! One hour later, the "like for like" car was delivered. A 2003 BMW 318Ci manual gearbox in silver with alloys wearing bridgestone tyres. They did offer a IS200 manual, but they couldn't deliver until much later. I've driven an IS200 before, so the Beemer is a new experience. Apparently, because my car is older than 10 years old, it's only called sub-prestige. Hence, no new LS430 today! Right, I realise car technology has moved on a lot since my car was made, BUT the beemer is not my cup of tea at all. I've become SO used to my old car that I noticed immediately: 1. A very light clutch, that bites almost as soon as you release (I stalled 5 times driving down my road!!!)..Yes, I did pass my test on a manual! 2. Engine that revs freely to just over 6,000rpm. 3. Not much torque low down, needs a heavy right foot 4. Good grip and roadhandling, but ride is awful. Every single bump gets transmitted to the steering wheel and cabin. Fun for 5 minutes, boring when trying to cruise home after a tiring day. 5. Can't find a good driving position. I had same problem in Audi TT, where I get neckache after about 30 mins of driving. 6. Seemed to attract unwanted attention at traffic lights (now everyone wants to race).. The hire company couldn't give me an Auto today, but might have one tomorrow. I think I'm going to push for them to get a IS200 SE Auto in black with 19 inch alloys ;-) I just realised how lucky I have been to drive my LS400 for the past 6 years.

They have told me I can't get another Lexus as a courtesy car, it's gonna be a Rover 75. Well, it's not a courtesy car, apparently I have to enter a credit hire agreement and claim the money back via solicitors.

Interesting discussion. I had a IS200 Auto a while back when my J reg LS400 was being serviced. I really had to have a heavy right foot in order to get the best out of the car. I struggled to get more than about 22-23 driving around London. Shocking! What's surprising is that with my 170,000 mile 4 litre V8 I'm still managing 18-20 in town, and around 30 on the motorway. However, if you drive one of the new LS430s then it's so efficient it probably drinks just the same as an IS200 Auto. With this brand sorta defeats argument which many people have about driving a smaller car versus a bigger car plainly on fuel costs.

I'd have to rip out the front seats and sit in the back like Hightower did in Police Academy (I'm 6'2"!!!).

Some prat hit my LS400 today, by reversing on a mini-roundabout. Don't ask why! This thread very useful, never thought about taking pictures of the scene and the car. Cheers for the heads up. I'll give that a go.

Aido: You are a true don. Nuff respect! I called Lexus Edgware Road who said "No probs", we handle everything. They explained to me that they have a company that specialises in like for like courtesy cars for fully comp insured drivers who drive prestige brands. He said either it's gonna be something close to a LS400 (perhaps a new LS430???), or some top of the range Beemer! Called Norwich Union after that who said, ok that's cool, Lexus are on our list. You can use them instead of the "no brand" garage. Thanks again. This board is SOOOO useful.

Really? I'm with Norwich Union. I just assumed you have to go with their approved repairer. Should I call them back and tell them to take the car to Lexus?

It's raining today, I'm driving down the road, turning right at a mini-roundabout, about to leave the roundabout, when bang! A prat in a ford fiesta van reversed at full speed without looking, since he was blocking a keep clear sign and went smack into my driver's door and wing. He admitted liability and said I was in his blind spot. Is there an excuse for reversing at full speed on a roundabout? I was only pootling at about 10mph, and he must have been doing at least 15, and he didn't even apply the brakes, just went straight back as if it's a demolition derby! Oh, well, I consider very us lucky that only the car was damaged but the occupants were ok. My mum, sis and bro were all inside with seatbelts on. The car absorbed the impact well. The car took most of the impact where the side indicator is. I saw the impact happen (in slow motion) but the car did not move 1 centimetre. Glad I drive such a well designed car. Garage comes to pick it up for repair tomorrow. I get the choice of a Ford Ka or a Micra 1.0 litre manual 3 door until it is fixed. Yeah, have an accident in your Lex and you get to drive a toy car!!!

Juddering is not normal at any speed. Brakes should be completely smooth, unless you are performing an emergency stop, in which case the ABS will pulsate through the pedal. Where do you feel the juddering? Steering wheel? Brake pedal? Entire car? You don't say where you bought it from, but could well be that the brake discs are slightly warped. Can you inspect them yourself? When were the brake discs last changed?

Dunlop SP Sport 01s on front and Michelin Pilot Primacys on the rear. Found this useful info on the web - hope it's useful to others. Hydroplaning (Aquaplaning) - Smart Motorist Hydroplaning (called aquaplaning in Europe and Asia) occurs when water on the roadway accumulates in front of your vehicle's tires faster that the weight of your vehicle can push it out of the way. The water pressure can cause your car to rise up and slide on top of a thin layer of water between your tires and the road. While hydroplaning your vehicle rides on top of the water, like a water skier on a lake. In less than a second, your car can completely lose contact with the road, putting you in immediate danger of sliding out of your lane. This usually happens at higher speeds, over 40 miles per hour. Try to imagine your vehicle traveling at a high rate of speed on a sheet of ice: that image approximates what will happen if you try to brake or steer while hydroplaning. The 3 main factors that contribute to hydroplaning: Vehicle speed. As speed increases, wet traction is considerably reduced. Since hydroplaning can result in a complete loss of traction and vehicle control, you should always reduce speed, paying attention to the traffic around you. Tire tread depth. As your tires become worn, their ability to resist hydroplaning is reduced. Water depth. The deeper the water, the sooner you will lose traction, although even thin water layers can cause a loss of traction, including at low speeds. Let's examine what happens to a tire in the midst of a hydroplane. When entering a puddle, the surface of the tire must moves the water out of the way in order for the tire to stay in contact with the pavement. The tire compresses some of the water to the sides, and forces the remaining water through the tire treads. With good tires, a moderate rate of precipitation, and a well-drained roadway surface, hydroplaning rarely occurs below 55 mph. However, if any of those conditions are not met, it can happen at speeds as low as 35 mph. On a smooth polished road in moderate rain at 60 mph, each tire has to displace about a gallon of water every second from beneath a contact patch no bigger than a size nine shoe. Each gripping element of the tread is on the ground for only 1/150th of a second; during this time it must displace the bulk of the water, press through the remaining thin film, and then begin to grip the road surface. Although bald tires give better grip on dry roads than treaded tires, they are unsafe in rain because water is a lubricant on rubber. (Also, punctures are more common in the rain.) Hydroplaning science - Hydroplaning is the result of your tires moving quickly across a wet surface - so fast that they do not have sufficient time to channel that moisture away from the center of the tire. The result is that the tire is lifted by the water away from the road, losing all traction. Of course the word 'quickly' is a relative term. Tread design, tread depth, weight of your vehicle, tire pressure, depth of water and even the consistency of that water - (whether it is highly aerated or not, for example) - all play a part in determining at what speed the tire will begin to hydroplane. It is a pretty safe bet to assume that any speed in excess of 60 MPH is fast enough to support hydroplaning regardless of the other variables. This is not to say that at 55 MPH you are safe, however. The exact point at which your vehicle becomes waterborne (transition point in the above diagram) is complicated and depends on all of the following variables: tire size - the size and shape of a tire's contact patch has a direct influence on the probability of a hydroplane. The wider the contact patch is relative to its length, the higher the speed required to support hydroplaning. tire tread pattern - certain tread patterns channel water more effectively, reducing the risk of hydroplaning. tire tread depth - as your tires become worn, their ability to resist hydroplaning is reduced. tire pressure - keep your tire pressure within the manufacturers recommended pressures. water depth - the deeper the water, the sooner you will lose traction, although at higher speeds even thin water layers can cause a loss of traction. water composition (oil, temperature, dirt, & salt can change its properties and density) vehicle drive-train: because of their computer-assisted differentials, all-wheel-drive vehicles are more likely to hydroplane than two wheel drive vehicles in certain situations. A sudden uncontrolled transfer of power from the front tires to the rear tires can put a hydroplaning AWD vehicle out of control. vehicle speed - as speed increases, wet traction is considerably reduced. Since hydroplaning can result in a complete loss of traction and vehicle control, you should always reduce speed. vehicle weight - the lighter the vehicle, the more likely it is to hydroplane. road surface type - non-grooved asphalt is considerably more hydroplane-prone than ribbed or grooved concrete surfaces. How can you tell that you're hydroplaning? It is often hard to tell when you are hydroplaning. The rear end of your vehicle may feel a little squirrelly (loose, giving you the sensation that it has moved to one side or the other), especially in a high crosswind. The steering may also suddenly feel loose or little too easy. Watch the road ahead for standing or running water. You can also pay attention to the spray being kicked up by the cars in front. If it suddenly increases it's possible that the driver has hit a patch of water that could cause you to hydroplane. What to do if you start to hydroplane - There are two absolutely essential no-no's to remember should you experience the beginning of hydroplaning: Do not apply your brakes Do not turn your steering wheel If you find yourself hydroplaning, do not brake or turn suddenly. This could throw your car into a skid. Think of your steering wheel as the rudder of a boat(your vehicle is a boat when in the middle of a hydroplane). Hold the wheel firmly and don't steer in any other direction but straight ahead. Ease your foot off the gas until the car slows and your steering returns to normal. If you need to brake, do it gently with light pumping actions. If your car has anti-lock brakes, then brake normally; the car's computer will mimic a pumping action, when necessary. If your vehicle’s tires are still in partial contact with the road surface, you should be able to regain control of the vehicle in the same way that you would on snow or ice.

Last night in London the rain and hailstones were really,really heavy. I'm so thankful I've fitted my LS400 with the highest quality tyres and PIAA wipers. Made driving so much safer. The wipers were great, with previous Lexus wipers I would have needed to switch to second speed, but with PIAA wipers operated fine on normal speed setting. There was so much excess water on the roads last night I thought I would suffer from aquaplaning, but nothing at all, even when driving at 40mph.

Why not get the wheels refurbished, and save the money and hassle of buying new wheels and tyres and put it in a savings account to help with servicing and maintenance? These cars are not cheap to keep in top condition. Putting bigger tyres on the car would affect the ride quality somewhat, and will definitely increase noise from tyres. It's a tradeoff at the end of the day, what's your priority, ride comfort, looks or handling? Ride comfort - stick with your current rims, or swap for other 16s Looks - get some 20 inchers Handling - get some 18inchers, lower the car, new struts, fit Daizen polyurethane sports bushes etc etc.