maneesh

That doesn't sound right to me. Perhaps one of the hoses behind the dash is damaged or worn out or leaking. Someone mentioned that A/C is supposed to cool entire car within 2 minutes. Any longer, and it's likely that something needs fixing. Or perhaps the LS400 is a different kettle of fish?

Why do people get jealous of an ordinary bloke who works hard to save cash to buy a new car? This kind of behaviour rubs me up the wrong way. You spend all day waxing just for some prat to think your car door is an etch a sketch. If I ever see anyone doing that in a car park, I'll put a stop to that, and I ain't a small lad ;-) Is the scratch too deep to try using cutting compound like T-Cut? If they have scratched thru the lacquer, then you prob need help.

Yes, I have had Dunlop SP Sport 2000E and also SP Sport 3000As, and now I have SP Sport 01s. All tyres were good. For some reason, Dunlops suit the older LS400s (Dunlop D8Zs were original equipment back in 1990). However, the 01s are great tyres and full of latest technology, and not that much more than regular 2000Es if you want to shop around for prices.

Oh yeah, forgot to mention that after washing the car, I rinsed the shampoo off with clean water. The water literally would not stay on the car, it just rolled off. Very little work to do with the chamois. Steve - how deep is your shine then?

Two weeks since I used the kit, and the deep shine was still there, despite being covered by tree sap and dirt. Anyway, I washed the car again today just using the gloss shampoo supplied and the spritz spray afterwards. Damn, car looks good again! Plus, I used the P21S multi surface restorer on the front chrome grille and the front and rear L badges. The grill and badges look like new again. Truly impressive stuff - better than the chrome polishes I have used before. Wanted to try it on the exhaust tips but it got too dark (yes, I'm a saddo who washes his car on a Sat night!!!). Anyone else tried using the kit yet?

Alternatively, you could get an LS400 and waft around still feeling exclusive :D

Doesn't matter if you drive your car hard or not, if you drive in somewhere like London where you've got speed bumps and potholes all over the place, get it checked at least once a year, even if the service schedule doesn't list it. Certainly, with my LS400 I get decent 4 wheel laser alignment done. Some people even get it checked every 3 months if you have expensive tyres and are doing town driving all day long.

all, please bear in mind that many sellers often put four brand new tyres on a car just before selling in order to disguise major suspension issues which are causing the tyres to wear out unevenly etc. If I saw a 2nd hand car with 4 brand new tyres on it for sale, I would check the invoices to see whether tracking has been done on a regular basis and whether the dealer has recommended changing shocks, bushes or not. I'd prefer to see all four tyres with even wear at time of purchase to reassure me (however, they could have stuck on part worns!) To go from full tread to bald in 6,000 miles is indication of a big problem with the suspension setup, if driving normally.

blocked injectors (try that STP product for 12 quid which you add to petrol and it cleans the engine), blocked air filter(again, you can replace yourself), spark plug(s) need replacing (should be replaced every 5 years/60k). That's all I can think of now. However, you make it sound transmission related too. How long ago was the transmission fluid replaced?

Last week my Citroen driving mate sits in my car and has never used electric seats before. I start showing off by adjusting the driver's seat here and there, then press button 1 of the seat memory to get it back in position. It all went a bit wrong, because at that point, the driver's seat reclined back up on the door side, but not on the armrest side, and the seat appeared all twisted. Oh, no, what do I do? Lucky for me, we have people like Stew on this forum. I read his post, contacted him, and after 2 or 3 attempts at a fix, the seat is more or less working in terms of the recline problem. Well, I have managed to get both sides to recline up to a good driving position (not same as before but 90% there - the armrest side bolster is a bit too forward compared to the other side). I'm not sure how long my fix will last, so I was thinking of keeping an eye out for a 2ndhand seat (which doesn't have the problem) from a car in a breaker's yard. Anyone ever swapped seats over? Is it something anyone (including me!) can do? Anyone know of any good Lexus breaker yards? Thumbs up for Stew - You are a cool dude! :D :D :D Moral of the story: Don't show off the electrics in your old Lexus, you tempt fate!

That car is nice. I do wish the regular LS400 came in a long wheelbase model like Beemers, Mercs and Jags do. That's the one reason I'd change brands when I'm due to replace the car. I was on business last year in the US, and the driver who picked me up in a Lincoln Town Car also used to drive stretched vehicles. He told me that the nicest stretched car he had ever driven was the stretched LS400 - 10 times smoother than the standard models. I reckon that is probably due to the much longer wheelbase helping bump absorption. Plus, the US cars generally came with air suspension fitted. Saying that, not many LS400s are stretched. Apparently, the coachbuilders don't like them because the sheet metal is thinner than Mercs and Lincolns.

Andy, I polished then waxed and then used detailing spray supplied. I'm still in shock as even with layer of tree sap on car, the deep shine still coming through. Steve, How's the polishing going in the rain today :D

Good to see you managed to save some cash. Hope it works out for you.

I have Michelin Pilot Primacys on the back, and Dunlop SP Sport 01s on the front. The treadwear of the Michelins is 240 and the Dunlops is 280. Does this mean the Dunlops are of a harder compound? Anyway, the Michelin website shows a picture of an A8 when you look up the Primacys, and it says they are for high mileage touring car drivers. They do seem quiet, but below average grip in wet weather (no traction control and heavy right foot!). The Dunlops are quietish most of the time, but you notice they make some noise when you are slowing down to a halt, and I think it's because of their new three tread in one design. Nice looking tyre, and better than my previous Dunlops (D8Z - original equipment on my car). Hope this helps.

Dude, That's one of the things that's quite attractive about owning an LS400, they are viewed as grandpa cars by a many youngsters who walk around nicking cars. The opposite of a Scooby Impreza. Plus, I would have thought that the older LS400s were not really stolen for parts in the same way that other Japanese cars are often stolen for parts, because LS400 owners generally buy new parts from the dealer. With regard to your question, I've heard Clifford is up there with the best. Also, when I got mine, the insurance company would only insure once a Thatcham Category 1 immobiliser had been fitted (had to show them the certificate). That's prob a better bet than an alarm, since a news report today says that general public takes sod all notice of car and burglar alarms. I reckon my immobiliser stops the car from being driven away by average thief, plus the factory alarm might scare opportunists who just smash the window and open door from inside. However, like everyone says, crooks who want something badly often get it. I've heard sometimes they don't even bother trying to steal it the normal way, they just tow it away. My mistake that's the council who does that!!! Depends where you leave the car at night too.

Just so people know what can happen. I never got a bill from Customs & Excise for the parts that I ordered. However, 2 months later, my accounts dept calls me and asks for a cheque, since the company I work at has been billed for 76 quid (VAT & 10% import duty) for the car parts I had delivered at work from the US.. So, the long arm of the law is entirely accurate. Still worked out way, way cheaper than getting the parts from the UK. I'm going to get all my parts from the US from now on, even down to the oil filters. Makes running the car a lot cheaper. Next time my friends go on holiday to the US and ask if I want anything, then I know what to ask them for!!!

William, You poor sod! Right, replacing both my front springs at Lexus a few years back incl. 10% discount cost me £500 inc. VAT for both springs. Each spring cost 85+VAT. The price may have gone up due to rising labour costs. If you wanna get the parts yourself, you could try the place I used in the USA to get my upper control arms (I saved a bundle). See my link regarding 90-94 car and tired suspension. Alternatively, you could go Gold here and get the 10-15% discount on Lexus parts through dealers in the UK. The only independent place I know of that might be able to help you near Surrey is Powerhouse Garage in Camberley. They specialise in Soarers, but will prob have the expertise and most importantly, a low enough labour rate to help you in your situation. I'm not sure whether this is a DIY job. Anyone else got comments? Hope this helps. Maneesh P.S An article in the paper the other day mentioned how councils are having to fork out lots of money to pay motorists who sue them for damaged suspensions when driving over unrepaired roads (lots of bad roads around). Make sure you take a pic of the pothole and send it to them, along with the estimate for changing the spring. You will have a strong case I reckon.

A piccie to show the shine I got. Doesn't show it off really as this is after it rained today and the sky was very cloudy when taking the picture. Also after raining the car was covered in tiny round beads of water, just as promised on the label. Oh, before anyone mentions it, yes the alloys are a bit small!

Yes, it does have a constant beep whenever the engine is off, the lights are on and you open the door. Perhaps it's a fuse or something? I don't know if it's linked to the sunroof beeper? If my sunroof is open when I switch off the car, then it makes a series of beeps. Perhaps you can see whether that works too. If it doesn't, it may be the actual beeper unit rather than the door switches.

Back in the good old days when I had a 1980 Ford Cortina 1.6 GL, fitting a K&N filter was the bees knees for a first car (it was small and silver), and I don't really know if it affected performance, but it made people think the engine was modded when I lifted the bonnet! However, based upon what I have read since then, engines have come a lot more efficient, and the manufacturer's air filters have become better. Why not just change the air filter more often yourself? Or perhaps you could spend the £60 price of the K&N air filter on a tank of petrol?? :D Perhaps you could try it out on the LS and let us know if you find a difference.

Cool! An interesting thread. Perhaps there are people out there who are paid just to try different waxes and polishes, and we do it for nothing! I think the clay bar is a great product, and I would have used that if I had more time. I think in the summer I will have more time, and I will use the clay bar then. It's funny today, as I kept driving past shop windows in traffic and checking out the reflection!

I previously used to use Autogylm super resin polish, then mer, then tried turtle wax extreme polish. Anyway, I never got the really deep shine I saw on other cars, which always bothered me. Then a newsletter came from LOC and one of the offers was for www.lexuscarcare.com, from which I bought the perfect shine kit. Comes with everything you need, including the BEST buffing towels I have ever used. (No lint at all, plus no waxing dust either). I just tried it today on my 12 year old LS400, and what can I say, not like a brand new car, but definitely makes the car stand out on the road. The paint shows much more depth to the colour now, and on most body panels, it really is like a mirror! Driving around London today, I could see people looking at the car. The neighbours must have thought I was nuts getting up at 7.30am on a Sunday to wash the car, but lots noticed the shine when finished. The major difference in the kit is the P21s carnuba wax, which I have never used before. Hopefully tomorrow I get the camera and take a piccie and you can judge for yourselves. I just hope the deep shine lasts even through rain or being parked under trees. I'm well chuffed with the results so far. Will keep you updated. Maneesh

Is it definitely a cracking noise or a clunking noise? I have clunking noise when braking from the front, which might be the lower ball joints or the sway bar bushes. Both are quite cheap to replace I think.

Yes the suspension of the LS400 is softer than other cars, but it's normally tight enough so that the car doesn't noticeably dip or rise when accelerating or braking. It's something that has got progressively worse, so I suspect it's due to wear and tear of some bush of some kind.

Hi, Right, here's my issue. My 92 LS400 presents the following symptoms when driving: It's been ok until last summer. -front of car rises when accelerating, dives when braking -entire front of car seems to oscillate up and down (as if shocks were worn) - not bad on very very smooth roads, but very noticeable on uneven surfaces. Especially noticeable at low speeds (below 40). Front of car feels tight but not planted to the road. Has been getting worse each month. -Steering wheel has vibration through it particularly when braking since front of car seems to vibrate too when braking -Clunking noise from front suspension very apparent when making left or right turns, particulary when turning the wheel full lock at low speed -Engine vibration felt through brake pedal, shifter and steering wheel especially at idle (interestingly the vibration increased at idle the harder I pressed the brake pedal whilst in D?) -Loud groaning (sounds like plastic rather than metal) sound from front suspension when driving cold car over speed humps -Constant tyre wear on outside edges of front tyres (always happens since I bought the car) To give you a background, this is what suspension items I have replaced since I have owned the car (last 55,000 miles/6 years - mostly stop start city driving). All 4 wheels balanced and 4 wheel alignment done (this month) New Dunlop tyres on front (this month) New front upper control arms (last month) New rear axle carrier bushes - polyurethane - (last month) New Michelin tyres on rear (6 months ago) New front brake discs and pads (6 months ago) New shocks all round (6 months ago) New strut bar, and strut bar cushions, drivers side front lower control arm (4 years ago) New front springs (4.5 years ago) All parts have been OEM. I know that my rear upper control arms are very much worn as well. After reading lots of posts on the website, I'm thinking that perhaps the front lower balljoints are really worn out which would be causing the front going up and down. The engine mounts and transmission mount are likely to be split or worn out too given the mileage, but would that present itself as anything apart from vibration? I'm planning on changing the front lower ball joints, engine and transmission mounts and rear upper control arms. I'm getting all the parts dirt cheap when I'm over in the US next month. What do you guys think? Do tie rod ends need to be changed when replacing ball joints? Could it be as simple as my anti roll bar bushings? Is an anti-roll bar the same as a strut bar which I already got changed? Total mileage is 168k right now. I do enjoy the car very much, and plan on keeping it a few more years since I have spent some money on it. Thanks so much guys. I realise in advance that some people's advice may be to get rid of the car, but I've already considered that, and ruled it out. It's cheaper to get parts from the US and maintain it with a non-Lexus dealer. P.S The car also exhibits vibration throughout the car (particularly on passenger side) from exactly 84mph (reminds me of the back to the future car!). A mechanic told me that the driveshaft prob needs replacing. I reckon it's one of the engine mounts though.