johnatg

Go to jail? No chance. They'll get a trivial slap on the wrist (unless they've got serious previous)

Must be my browser settings!

Hmm - the links don't work. The first is ebay search: exhaust repair pipe. the second is search :exhaust clamp. The original ebay links are enormously long.

OK - here's what I'd do (but you'd need to assess for yourself how practical this would be in the exact circumstances, and the tools you have available) 1) Remove part of those heat shields, perhaps back to the clamps on the angled part. 2) Get two suitable lengths of pipe, like this: http://tinyurl.com/yv3fls7q . You'd need to measure the length and diameter (inside diameter to match the outside diameter of the existing pipe,). length to provide at least an inch, preferably more like 2 inches of overlap over the existing pipe at either end. 3) Buy 4 clamps, like this: http://tinyurl.com/1bhp57yj Suitable for the outside diameter of the new bits of pipe. 4) Cut short longitudinal slots in the ends of the pipes (so that the clamps will squeeze the pipes slightly) 5) Assemble and tighten the clamps You might just need some extra support where you've removed the heat shield - not sure if those nuts support the pipe or just the heat shield. If you do, a length of perforated strip should do the job Good luck! (and please take care under the car)

Well they made a nice clean job of cutting the cats off! No problem with the rear. But is that heat shield bolted on to the pipe at the front? Can you get a shot of the pipe inside the heat shield (ie from further back but looking forward?)

Can you get under the car (with proper support) and take a pic so that we can see exactly what we're dealing with?

I began to doubt my own assertion! See here: https://www.gov.uk/emissions-testing I knew I was correct - when we get our cars tested we don't get an emissions print-out - or has anyone here (with a hybrid) had one? Of course, Colin is absolutely correct about the legality of altering emissions related equipment on a vehicle.

If there is enough clear pipe either side of the cuts the sleeves could just be clamped

Hybrids are definitely not checked for emissions. Refer to testers manual I linked to earlier in the thread. The cats you've lost don't do much - on board cat efficiency is checked before the exhaust gets to them. Emission limits are not published for hybrids. Could you sleeve the pipes rather than weld?

Looks nice enough from the pictures - hard to spot glitches. You can get a hybrid battery warranty up to 15 years old - Lexus need to inspect it each year - costs getting on for £60 but well worth it. Potentially that could run to 25th May 2025. It has a pretty clean MoT history except for (primarily) exhaust and shock absorber issues in 2019. Looks as though they were fixed though. Might be worth negotiating for a new MoT now. If you or the seller can wait 10 days or so you could keep the same annual expiry date.

Re the thing about not needing a cat on a hybrid for the MoT - here's a link to the Testers' manual https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/8-nuisance#section-8-2 See 8.2.1.1 and 8.2.1.2 You don't need a cat and you can remove it.

This won't help at all, but please read it before you contact your insurance company: https://www.theguardian.com/money/2020/feb/01/catalytic-converter-thefts-hybrid-car-insurance-toyota-prius

There was an interesting post from 'Vrodman' on the 'Tameside' thread - apparently you don't need a cat on a hybrid car! Certainly hybrids are not checked for emissions, but I thought that a removed cat per se would fail an MoT. Anyway, it didn't for Vrodman. So maybe you (OP) can get away with having an exhaust place fit in a straight pipe to replace the missing cats, at least to get the car mobile. You need to do something to close up the missing exhaust section - or it might be a bit noisy. If the MX-5 is pre 1995 you don't need a cat and can just get a'cat bypass pipe' - that's what my 1992 one has!

An appalling situation, but please think very carefully about claiming on insurance. It will affect your premiums for years to come, so will cost a lot more than your excess payment today

Yes the flow goes downwards towards the inlet of the (centrifugal) fan

I'm pretty sure you don't need working TPMS for an MoT pass for a 2005 car - so at least get your MoT done and fix the problem at leisure! I'm sure someone with more experience with TPMS will be along shortly to help!

I think that the aircon condenser fan will run all the time with the aircon on. The rad fan won't run with the engine cold. So you should be able to identify which is which Of course the fan might have failed with a slight short.

Well done building the voltage tracker! A bit of google search shows the CDS fuse refers to the Aircon Condenser fan. You probably don't need it, at least in the winter.

It's unlikely that the lambda sensor would cause cutting out. (But it might need attention before a Mot) I wouldn't really expect a VVTI fault to do that either, but it could. Is the engine oil clean? Has it been changed recently? If not, I'd start there - change the oil and filter. There's the possibility of a fault with the VVTI control system / solenoid, but I'm not familiar with the details of it on your car. But it could be something else entirely - eg fuel pump or some other sensor - any sensor can be prone to failure when it gets hot. You really need an oscilloscope inspection of every engine sensor. Need more detail really. Does it restart easily after the cutting out? Does it need to cool down before restarting? What happens then? Does it misfire before or after cutting out?

I have Techstream, but for a quick regular check on Lexus and other cars I look after with OBDII I use an Autool unit (see Amazon, etc). Cost less than £10 and is similar to this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ELM327-EOBD-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-OBD2-Car-Engine-Scanner-Tool-Fault-Code-Reader/393044272148?epid=20042964754&hash=item5b8343a414:g:My8AAOSw9BBfy0pn (but it's not the same as that so I can't vouch for that particular unit). There are also plenty listed on Amazon. They link to an app on your mobile phone via Bluetooth. Recommended app is Torque - there's a free version but Pro recommended - costs about £2.50. The app gives code reading, clear ECU light, real time engine data, etc. These only cover engine codes - for full coverage you need Techstream - it comes with the software (for a windows pc) and the correct cable. Again see Ebay and /or Amazon.

Or maybe it's something else. Before you start replacing components, which can get very expensive, check for any stored codes in the engine ecu. I'd be suspecting something temperature related, but you don't exactly give much detail.

30mm to 27mm gives a lip of 1.5mm each side. You can file it/them off, which answers your last question.

Solid - 8.5mm Vented - 16.5mm More to the point, check the friction surface on the Inner face of the disc. A crusty rust deposit builds up from the centre outwards. Quite why this happens I don't know - you would think that as the piston pushes directly onto the pad there it would keep the disc clean and the outside might suffer if the pins are sticking. That can happen but the inside face always seems to rust worse than the outer. It's not easy to see. If the rust deposit is significant, the discs need changing. + Ken's points are all good.

Two or three years ago there were some (over) enthusiastic reviews of a Jaguar's electric conversion of an E-type - the E-type Zero. The prototype seemed to work OK, with a claimed range of 170 miles (test results more like 120) (the batteries replaced the engine, more or less). It cost £500,000 (which to be fair is about the cost of a fully restored old E-type, rebuilt to modern standards). Jaguar announced plans to put it into production. You may have seen that they abandoned the whole program last year.

Indeed - and that is one hell of a limit. Tesla showrooms usually? sometimes? have a bare chassis on display. (There are plenty of images on the web) You've got the motors taking minimal space by the wheels, then the whole area of the chassis area with a wheel at each corner is a tray available to take a lot of batteries. How are you going to get anything like that number in an ICE car chassis? Quite apart from the weight distribution problem. All the (very considerable) weight in a Tesla is situated low down and distributed evenly. As Linas says, it's going to cost substantially more than the article implies and you're going to end up with a car which does 50mph with a range of 50 miles and handling like a pig. I picked up a MX-5 gearbox and differential plus some minor bits and pieces during the summer - they were all in the boot and my car (GS300h) suffered from substantial oversteer, even in a straight line on the motorway. It was OK for the necessary 200 miles but I wouldn't like to drive it like that every day even if the weight distribution might be a bit better than a very heavy load just in the boot EV s need to be designed from scratch - even if the car looks conventional (eg Seat Mii, Vauxhall Corsa EVs) they are very different under the skin. Actually - wonder how long it will be before we see the coachbuilders' art return - the Tesla chassis at least looks ideal as a starting point.