johnatg

I had an is250 for 7+ years and never did find those block drains. After 10 years old I just drained what I could once a year and refilled. No problems and I think the car is still running fine at 15 years old.

Nothing wrong with Pagid discs or pads. They're not uprated 'performance' items but neither are original Lexus ones - the Pagid items will perform just as well as Lexus ones. Hybrid cars are much lighter on discs and pads than ICE cars - not much point in uprated ones really unless you live at the top of the Stelvio pass or similar. Thumbs up for Pagid.

You shouldn't really use ordinary (lithium, etc) grease on battery terminals - I think because it may have an adverse effect on the battery case. I have and use some Holts' No-crode from years ago - nowadays you can get specific battery terminal grease from Liqui-Moly or use Vaseline or other petroleum jelly.

If it started easily this am there's nothing wrong with the battery. Last night some volts were getting through to give you ignition lights, but I guess the connections weren't allowing enough current to flow to turn the starter motor/engine. My guess from here would be that your battery connections need tightening up. The terminals are conical and the clamps can slide up and cause a poor connection. Try tapping the clamps down very lightly with a very small hammer as you tighten the clamps - very carefully!

Indeed so. BTW - credit card companies charge between 2 and 4% of the transaction cost, but banks take a cut of DDs too. If you'd like to save some more, check out AutoAid - £59.99 per year (for all your cars and partner (driving!). I've had to call them once (when my MX-5 coil pack failed) - the guy turned up pretty promptly and would have transported us home, but I managed to get the car going when the coils had cooled down. He followed us all the way home (~15 miles) just in case. Or I've heard of an outfit called 'Rescue Mates' - works like Uber. But I know nothing more about them.

Check the whole intake system from air filter box, intake trunking, throttle body through to the intake air box (what people think is the manifold but isn't) - maybe something was damaged or a gasket not quite right during the spark plug change. And were the air box to manifold gaskets changed during the spark plug change? - likely not - another possible source of the problem but it means almost re-doing the plug change.

Look for 'repair washer' on the bay - lots of different sizes. Just check out what you need. If the hole gets really big you can use perforated strip to hold over a larger area.

Here you go: https://l1-movies.lexus-europe.com/media/downloads/GBEN/Lexus - Service Table 0418.pdf

That would probably involve quite a loss. I'd try several oil changes, using engine flush and a new oil filter each time. (I use Comma Engine flush and Mannol oil - I'd suggest using a 0w20 for the first oil change then 5W30 after that.) You can run the car for a few days with Comma flush in the engine. You should get a noticeable improvement and there's a reasonable chance the motor will last for ages. I revived a Mazda 626 like that about 30 years ago - it lasted another 70K miles and I sold it still running well. It had solid crust in the rocker cover, let alone sludge. But there is a danger that stuff will be dislodged and stick in an oil gallery - that might be terminal.

For once I agree completely with Linas. Emission tests on diesels prove nothing. Presence and correct operation of all emissions equipment is key.

From Wikipedia: Statutory speed limit in Japan defaults to 100 km/h (62 mph) for divided national expressways and 60 km/h (37 mph) for any other roads, unless otherwise posted. The highest speed limit in Japan is 120 km/h (75 mph) on some sections of Shin-Tōmei Expressway (E1A) and Tōhoku Expressway (E4). I guess that's why. UK spec CC works at higher speed - don't know how high. Set at indicated 80mph matches the traffic on most fairly uncongested m'ways.

Why would you recommend anyone to buy a Lexus diesel? He could buy a IS250 and have a far more satisfactory experience. It's not just egr problems - there are several other potential problems with any Lexus /Toyota diesel - head gasket, dpf and so on. There's little or no fuel consumption cost advantage, then there's the potential problem of being barred from cities.

Yes - I am in UK and my car is a UK-spec car and it is missing some features. It is definitely a Premier. The options supplied probably changed over time - mine was delivered December 2014.

My GS300h Premier is Meteor Blue with Ivory trim. Really nice combination, but you need to keep the leather clean. Check the options fitted - mine has some things missing - eg Dynamic radar cruise cruise (it has ordinary cruise), Lane keeping assist and various other things described in the Owners Manual. Not sure which were/are usually fitted or were options available in UK

Just drive each window up and down with its own switch on its own door. That will reset them and then they'll all work from the drivers door. Pause for a few seconds at the up/down positions You don't need to do all this draining stuff unless you're working on the airbags or seat belts.

You probably all know this (I did too, but it was still a bit of a 'doh!' moment!) Yesterday my nearside mirror got folded in - I think when I pulled in on a narrow lane to let someone oncoming past. I didn't notice until I had to reverse for another oncoming vehicle. Anyway, I operated the mirror fold switch and mirror function returned to normal. Except - the mirrors then didn't auto fold/unfold on locking/unlocking. I eventually worked out that the 'auto' switch next to the mirror fold switch had been unset. Pressed it to switch back to auto (green light on) and everything worked again. I wonder why the forcible mirror fold back had unset the auto function?

All magic relies on misdirection - illusion and distraction! Wonder which is in play here?

Hi Waleed I'd find it really hard to diagnose your problem from here. Maybe you have a hole in the exhaust - perhaps the pipe in front of one of the silencers. Does the car feel smooth when you drive or is it missing? It could be a semi-blocked fuel injector or a failing plug coil. Do you run on premium petrol? Try a tankful or two of Shell V-Power. That's all I can suggest really. An actual engine problem is unlikely if the car has been properly maintained - oil changes etc. I wouldn't start changing things on spec - you need to find out what is actually causing the noise, even if that means spending money at a Lexus dealer. I have no idea about Lexus indies near London - I'm in Cheshire and rarely visit the smoke and certainly not to get any kind of Lexus service/repair.

But look out for shock absorbers (they get to leak and are expensive), exhaust (they last a long time but get to rust and again expensive, brake calipers, especially rears - they seize but can usually be freed so service rather than replace, but a Lexus dealer will just want to replace - at your expense! Apart from those - just the usual things with any used car at that mileage - but will probably be in much better condition than most makes.

PS - But it's like any other service item - you wouldn't (shouldn't) wait for problems before changing oil, filters, etc. Likewise plugs. But at sensible intervals commensurate with the expected service life of the item.

It's fair enough to consider a plug change any time after 60K although they would probably be OK up to, or even beyond 100K depending on type of car usage. The contention is really about the 6 year recommendation. Lexus dealers try and persuade you to have it done even at much lower mileages. Maybe less so now but they tried to twist my arm at 6 years on my 2014 GS300h - 41K miles. No sir.

The Lexus recommendation to change plugs based on age is ridiculous. These plugs (they are both iridium) are good for 60-100K miles, regardless of age, within reason. It is unlikely that you will face any running issues at less than 100K miles so long as oil change intervals have been adhered to. It's a good moneyspinner for Lexus.

A fair warning and be careful who you buy from. I think Lexus dealers will steer you towards the original recommendation of FK20HBR11 which are considerably more expensive. Denso now specify IKBH20TT. I had no problems with them.

Here's the post - mostly all you need to do it yourself.

The Denso recommendation is Denso IKBH20TT. You can get a set of 6 on Ebay for £40. It's a moderately easy job to do yourself - I wrote a guide on here somewhere. If you get it done by a garage it will be a couple of hours labour.