johnatg

Just to be clear on the functions of the 12v battery vs the hybrid battery - as I understand it the 12v battery is normally only used to switch on the computers - the actual starting power to turn the starter motor comes from the hybrid battery unless the hybrid battery is out of charge completely in which case the 12v battery is used as the whole power source. Some people have suggested on here that as the 12v battery is not used for serious power when starting you can use some sort of small battery - but that would not be wise in case it is needed for starter power. As a general rule, It is never a good idea to run any car engine for a short time - if you start the car, drive it for a few miles at least unless you just need to shunt it out of the way on your drive or whatever. But try not to do that too often before going for a proper drive.

Three cut outs on one side engage with three lugs on the filter housing and one (the central one on the opposite side) with the one lug on the opposite side. And of course the flats engage with the flats on the filter housing. Not sure how that all wouldn't work for you.

Your description sounds right - maybe post a pic of it? Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

I think it's a characteristic of electric power steering. You'll get used to it. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

Ouch! Sorry to hear that Rich. Get (properly) well soon!

Indeed - that sounds pretty good - I don't know if you actually save money on that basis or if it just spreads the pain! Is the quoted price 'all-in' or do you have to pay extra for oil, filters, etc? Here's the reason I asked. My car is coming up to 6 years old and has done 41K. I need a service early in October. The 'recommended' service is a full 6 year one - costs £655. An 'Essential Care' service is £415. I discussed this with my local dealer back in May for complicated reasons I won't go in to here. But the difference is they don't change the plugs on the Essential - that's the only difference - £240! Now a) I don't consider that you need to change the plugs at 41K miles, even if they are 6 years old and b) 4 plugs for a GS300h cost £55 - they are all accessible - no plenum chambers or anything to remove - just a bolt for the coil and you're straight on to the plug - I can do it myself in 10 minutes tops per plug. So I'll be doing that at 60K miles or thereabouts. You can buy an Essential Care service plan - includes a major and a minor for £4 more than paying for those two services separately when they arise. Then of course they want to do the MoT for £14 more than my trusty local garage. (Which I use for Mots for various vehicles at least 4 times a year and in the last ten years have only had two failures - once for a misaligned headlight aim and once for a loose brake bleed screw). The Lexus will be Mot'd there in a couple of weeks time.

Did you use the 'Essential care' version or the regular service?

Try these guys (never used them personally); https://www.coolexperts.co.uk/motor-vehicles/

You don't say which model you're looking at, or how old. Some of the things you list may not be minor - you can't live with bit of dampness on an AC system - it has to be completely gas tight or it will empty quickly (unless you want to dispense with AC altogether - but hey - this is a Lexus GS). Oil leaks might not look much but can cost a fortune to fix. If you went to a Lexus dealer they would want to replace the seizing brakes lock stock and barrel. The hybrid battery might recover or be recoverable - but it might not. I would walk away - find a car with a full Lexus service history including a (passed) hybrid health check.

A faulty TPMS is an MoT fail (major fault) on cars first registered after Jan 1 2012.

That's what Lexus specify, but it's a ridiculous price. You can use any good differential oil conforming to 75W85 and GL5 - eg Redline 75W85, Febi Bilstein 75W85 Axle Drive Oil GL5, Fuchs Titan Sintopoid FE 75W-85 fully synthetic gear oil and other brands are available.

I suspect there is a problem with the wiring or plug to the MAP sensor. Maybe internally in the wire at the first tight clip or in the plug - poss a poor joint between wire and terminal. You've wiggled the wire and that fixed it temporarily, then it failed again. Try more wiggling but it will need a permanent repair. Of course I may be completely wrong. But many sensor problems are really the wiring - a lot of perfectly good sensors get chucked away. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

Sadly there comes a time when you have to decide to cut your losses. It might be worth a flush and refill but anything more is going to cost serious money. Maybe just live with it until it fails completely - that might be many miles away.. Try and find a specialist Lexus independent and get an opinion when he has seen and tested the car.

Agree with all that. Problem lies with the competence of mechanics - I don't have much faith even in the competence of dealer 'mechanics'. These days they tend to be just fitters - swap out suspect parts (often assemblies) and bolt in a new one. Except when it costs them because it's a warranty job so they make a fuss about it.

Maybe try lubricating the interface between pistons and backs of the pads with copper grease. Might help both problems

A breathable one (critical) works well - I used to keep my MX-5 under one (it's now in a garage). But it's a big wet thing to put somewhere when you take it off. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

Have you set all tyres to correct pressures then press the button under the dash? Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

Just remove all the bolts/screws holding the covers. There are a lot of them! Why do you want to remove it/them? - there's a hatch for the oil filter and you don't need to remove the undercover to drain the oil. I suppose you do to drain the coolant from the block, but good luck with finding the drain cocks - I never managed to find them.

A major shock absorber leak is a major fault and therefore a fail. A minor one is an advisory, but it comes down to the opinion of the tester. You may have seen Koni shock absorbers for £80 but not for an IS250. You can get Koni shocks (and they are an excellent brand) for an IS250 but they are about £175 (each) You can find various branded and unbranded ones on ebay for something like £100 per pair. How long they would last is anyones guess. KYB is a good brand so if you can get them for a good price that would be fine. Note that you should replace the shocks as a pair. It would indeed be a major catastrophe if a shock were to leak enough to form a puddle - basically they just show dampness on the shock body

Run out is the amount of 'wobble' as the disc rotates. It can be caused by DVT but it could also be that the disc is not sitting true on the hub. If the latter, that can cause the former.

Not really surprising Re skimming - don't bother. Look on the bay - you can get pads and discs for way less and the labour's the same - you would need new pads. It's never worthwhile skimming normal cars brake discs. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk

You should always check run-out when fitting new discs. Far too many mechanics don't do it, because it is a bit time-consuming. It entails cleaning the hub/disc surfaces as Peter says, but also possibly changing the position of the disc relative to the hub to get the smallest possible run out. If you don't do it the disc may eventually wear unevenly and cause judder. Warranty claims for uneven disc thickness are almost always rejected because the manufacturers say they were fitted incorrectly, which is probably true. And is probably the case here. But proving it after 18 months may be somewhat difficult to say the least.

The R letter has nothing to do with the tyre size - it represents 'radial' which refers to the tyre construction. (All car tyres are radial these days but once upon a time you also got cross-plies and the R was introduced into the size code to distinguish radials) The final number in size is the wheel diameter - the tyre inner diameter. (not radius) You only have options on tyre diameter if you have different sets of wheels - if, as is likely, your wheels are 18" you need 18" tyres unless you are prepared to splash out on new wheels. Buy the same size tyres as fitted now. I agree with the points raised by Chris in the post above - but be careful. Lexus specify tyres of a particular speed rating - usually W or Y. You don't need those ratings for use in the UK at least, but if you change from Lexus spec (eg to V) you should check with your insurance company - they probably won't mind but it is a 'modification' - so check. Actually it can be hard to find V rated tyres in the sizes mentioned - at least the larger ones.

See this post in a previous thread:

That's a sudden change of diagnosis. What makes you think it's transmission related? Very unlikely and probably serious if it is.