garagestmarien

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garagestmarien last won the day on October 13

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About garagestmarien

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  • First Name
    John
  • Gender
    Male
  • Lexus Model
    Ls 400
  • Year of Lexus
    1994
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Other/NonUK
  • Interests
    Classic Cars
    General Automotive
    Motorsport & Racing
    Car Restoration
    Car Modification
    Road Trips
    Computers & Electronics

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  1. After a full service of my 94 LS400 I was after some time finally able to go to a local supermarket for some supplies. (Been off the road for over a month). I am living and working in Netherlands and without the car I have been biking where I needed to be. I did my shopping, loaded the car up and as I was pulling out of my parking space, someone just walked in front of me. I stopped, gave a little toot on the horn, which really made said person jump. He turned round and shouted (Translated from Dutch), F**king electric cars. So I opened the window and said sorry, this is a 4ltr quad cam V8 petrol engine, not electric. Made me laugh.
  2. Now I have the gearbox on my 1994 LS400 serviced. Changed oil (Sump drain and removal), fitted new filter, cleaned everything up and reassembled. I bought 2 liters of Type iV, but this has not made an impression on the dipstick. There are no leaks, but of course I removed the radiator when I did the timing belt, so lost an amount of transmission oil from the cooler. So more oil on order. Now, Question, The oil that came out of my gearbox was close to black and although it did not smell burnt, it did smell bad. I have seen in the past that there is an idea to drain and refill the sump a few times to get more new fluid more into the box than old. My question is, how many times should this be done. 2 times, 4 times ?
  3. Problem solved. Goes here, but no idea what it does or what it is for. But fitted and tight.
  4. Here is an update. The engine full service is done and everything is good. It starts and run perfect. Now I have moved onto the gearbox to do an oil and filter change. Drained the sump and removed it. Very minor amount of metal dust on the magnets, which I guess is normal for a 26 year old gearbox. However, on one of the magnets I found the screw in the photo. (12mm x 4mm). The gearbox has never given any problems, my reason for service, is just that I am keeping the car and want to make sure everything is good. I am a bit alarmed, where this screw has come from. I plan to have a good look at the valve body before I fit the new filter, but wonder if by any chance, anyone on here, recognises it.
  5. Mine is running 17". Drives well, using 235 x 60 fulda tyres. (recommended by tyre shop for noise level) Been on the car for 7 years now. Although, I feel 18" would look better.
  6. Just doing a major service to my 1994 LS400. My question is, should the new spark plugs be fitted dry, or with greased or oiled threads, or maybe copper slip.
  7. Thank you very much.Yes, that is definitely the same as mine, which I see is the correct one. It looks very much like it must have slipped, although it is tight, so I will re-use it and look at a replacement in the near future.
  8. Thanks for the replies. The timing belt kit and water pump I got from rock autos and including prepaid import tax and shipping was about 166 pounds. That's to the Netherlands and in comparison to the cost over here was a huge saving. The timing marks on the cam pulleys in the photos are the correct ones. They are the stamped ones that have been tippexed (I guess- existing marks). However, now I have the harmonic off I think I can also see another problem which solves the issue. I do not think there is a standard harmonic balancer fitted. I cannot identify the one I have removed and on inspection, it looks like the timing marks are made on the other side of the crank key position.On all the pulleys I have been able to find in manuals and online, if you have the crank key at 12o/c, then the TDC mark is to the left. On mine it is to the right, so if I rotate it clockwise further to where the key should be, the cam timing is almost correct. So, on reassembly I will go by the crank (timing belt) pulley which seems to be in the right place. I thought that maybe the pulley rubber was bad and the outer section had slide round a bit, but it is solid. Here is a photo of the pulley. If you make a straight line with the pointer I used for the crank key and take it to the outer edge, I think that is the correct area where the timing mark should be. I also note it has a solid center and all the models I can find have an open center. The pulley fits fine and is in line for the drive belt, so my guess is, it is off some Toyota. But so far I cannot identify which one and a new pulley is too expensive for me.
  9. Perhaps[s you are missing the point of this post. Aligning the timing marks showed the result of the cams being out. I do not need manuals, I have all the info I require. I have been working on different vehicles for the last 50 years, so I am quite sure I know what I am doing. My question was how far out I found the timing marks.
  10. Hi all Thanks for the replies. I have done as suggested, although I did not see it working as the crankshaft is basically 2 to 1 drive. So the cam shaft will only ever be 180 deg difference. Following photos show:- Photo 1 - 1 full turn (Camshaft marks 180 deg moved). Photo 2. - 1 full turn, camshaft marks back to about 40 deg out. I count 7 teeth off. Now I know the camshaft and crankshaft pulleys are keyed in place, so can be sure they haven't slipped. I cannot see any indication of the belt jumping any teeth and although it is well within the stickered mileage from when the last belt was done, I don't really trust it and so decided to do a major overhaul, just for my own peace of mind. This includes, timing belt, water pump, oil, oil filter, fuel filter, plugs, distributors, transmission filter etc etc. But I still do not understand how the timing belt could be so far out and more to the point the car still run. I don't think it matters how many more times I turn the engine, the marks will always be in 1 of 2 places. I guess I will know better when I get the belt off and of course the new belt is marked up inlt cam/exh cam/ crank, so in theory should be correct. Also, just as a matter of interest to steve2006. Your link to lexls. Photo 17 shows the marks correct, so you can see how far mine are out.
  11. Well, I have started work on the car and have come across something weird with the timing belt. I don't know if I should do another post or just add it here, which for now I will do. Someone can tell me if that is okay or not. I have got to the point of taking the harmonic balancer off, but thought I would line the timing up first. Now, I have seen a few photos on the 'net' that show the crank pulley at TDC and the timing marks lined up. When I do mine, they are miles out, I would guess 40 deg. I wonder how the car ran so well. I did for a few months after rebuilding the ecu caps have an odd starting problem. Sometimes the engine would lock, but second go on key and it spun okay. I thought it was some remaining damage from the ECU leaking caps, but now wonder if it's the timing belt timing. Of course it will all be timed up properly when I get to that point. I have added a photo of the timing marks. Maybe someone can tell me they are right, or that is is totally wrong.
  12. okay, I have ordered the gates kit (Bit more than the Aisin, But just personal choice - used Gates in the past on other motors and never had a problem) Works out to about 166 pounds including pre paid customs. Not bad.
  13. Thank you Steve. Mine is an Aug 1994 so the 209 kit is what I need. Am I also right in thinking that there is only one water pump fitment. I am trying to plan all my parts up front and hope they are correct. Rather than find out when my car is in pieces.