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I sent an email to Lexus in Netherlands (where I currently am), asking if it was possible to run E10 in my 1994 LS400, stating I have had the car for a long time and do not wish to get rid of it. Or, if there was any modifications I could do, or parts to change. I have received a reply as follows: Dear mister S*****i, Thank you for your message. You asked me if you can tank the E10 fuel for your beautiful Lexus LS400 from 1994. Our advise is to tank E5 or Premium fuel. The engine of your car is to old for the E10 fuel. When you have any further questions please let me know. Sincerely, LOUWMAN & PARQUI B.V Sander de Bruijn Lexus Information Center Follow Lexus

Yes

Hi all, I have done a search, but not found anything concrete. But I see in the news, that in a short time E5 fuel and possibly 98 will be phased out. So, is there any known changes that can be made for a LS400 to run on E10 or even E85 Ethanol? Mine is a 94 model, non VVTI. I did last year make a mistake at a French service station and put half a tank of E85 Ethanol in. I decided to drive to the next available place to top up with 98. But in the end drove home (Long trip) and arrived home with the fuel warning light just coming on, so I filled up with 98. However, I never noticed any difference to running at the time and a year later the car still runs perfect. So is it just a matter of changing O rings etc to be able to use E10 or E85 Ethanol? Or is there long term issues using this fuel. If parts can be changed, what parts need changing?

This has happened to me once, but worth a mention. The idle pulley for the multirib accessory belt. Mine seized and burnt the belt to the point it snapped. I did not feel a thing when it happened, only that the car felt a bit more responsive to drive. Replaced with proper part (Fairly expensive, but right one has 2 bearings whereas after market ones only have one bearing). Cost me approx 60 pounds in Europe and new belt on top of that. I took this opportunity to do the cam belt, water pump and all tensioners, full engine service and gearbox oil change.

Thank you. Yes, I have a Bosch smart charger that can trickle charge and keep battery topped up during storage, so my plan is to once a week (weekends) to connect it for a day or 2)

My apologies if this has been covered, but my search did not find an answer for me. My car, 1994 LS400. Since the past year of lock downs etc, I have worked from home, with the odd days going to work once per week. Most of the time I use my bike weather permitting. When it's bad I take the car. However, when the car has stood for more than 2 weeks, maybe 3 or 4 then the battery has no power to start the car. So I take it off and charge it, after that everything is good. (Battery is an Varta blue G7 and I have checked it when charged and it is in good condition). I do have a few extra electronic accessories on the car. Now to the point. My question. I have no problem charging the car when needed, but what I would like to know, does it do any harm if I charge (Trickle from smart charger) the battery without disconnecting it from the car. At this time, I take the battery off and charge it inside. But it is a bit of a pain having to retune all the radio stations, the clock etc. I also don't know what this does to the gearbox learning and ECU. as at this time, each time I use the car, it is with a theoretically fresh fitted battery.

After a full service of my 94 LS400 I was after some time finally able to go to a local supermarket for some supplies. (Been off the road for over a month). I am living and working in Netherlands and without the car I have been biking where I needed to be. I did my shopping, loaded the car up and as I was pulling out of my parking space, someone just walked in front of me. I stopped, gave a little toot on the horn, which really made said person jump. He turned round and shouted (Translated from Dutch), F**king electric cars. So I opened the window and said sorry, this is a 4ltr quad cam V8 petrol engine, not electric. Made me laugh.

I think that is 1 billion kms.

Now I have the gearbox on my 1994 LS400 serviced. Changed oil (Sump drain and removal), fitted new filter, cleaned everything up and reassembled. I bought 2 liters of Type iV, but this has not made an impression on the dipstick. There are no leaks, but of course I removed the radiator when I did the timing belt, so lost an amount of transmission oil from the cooler. So more oil on order. Now, Question, The oil that came out of my gearbox was close to black and although it did not smell burnt, it did smell bad. I have seen in the past that there is an idea to drain and refill the sump a few times to get more new fluid more into the box than old. My question is, how many times should this be done. 2 times, 4 times ?

Problem solved. Goes here, but no idea what it does or what it is for. But fitted and tight.

Here is an update. The engine full service is done and everything is good. It starts and run perfect. Now I have moved onto the gearbox to do an oil and filter change. Drained the sump and removed it. Very minor amount of metal dust on the magnets, which I guess is normal for a 26 year old gearbox. However, on one of the magnets I found the screw in the photo. (12mm x 4mm). The gearbox has never given any problems, my reason for service, is just that I am keeping the car and want to make sure everything is good. I am a bit alarmed, where this screw has come from. I plan to have a good look at the valve body before I fit the new filter, but wonder if by any chance, anyone on here, recognises it.

Thank you for the replies. Dry it is.👍

Just doing a major service to my 1994 LS400. My question is, should the new spark plugs be fitted dry, or with greased or oiled threads, or maybe copper slip.

Thank you very much.Yes, that is definitely the same as mine, which I see is the correct one. It looks very much like it must have slipped, although it is tight, so I will re-use it and look at a replacement in the near future.

Thanks for the replies. The timing belt kit and water pump I got from rock autos and including prepaid import tax and shipping was about 166 pounds. That's to the Netherlands and in comparison to the cost over here was a huge saving. The timing marks on the cam pulleys in the photos are the correct ones. They are the stamped ones that have been tippexed (I guess- existing marks). However, now I have the harmonic off I think I can also see another problem which solves the issue. I do not think there is a standard harmonic balancer fitted. I cannot identify the one I have removed and on inspection, it looks like the timing marks are made on the other side of the crank key position.On all the pulleys I have been able to find in manuals and online, if you have the crank key at 12o/c, then the TDC mark is to the left. On mine it is to the right, so if I rotate it clockwise further to where the key should be, the cam timing is almost correct. So, on reassembly I will go by the crank (timing belt) pulley which seems to be in the right place. I thought that maybe the pulley rubber was bad and the outer section had slide round a bit, but it is solid. Here is a photo of the pulley. If you make a straight line with the pointer I used for the crank key and take it to the outer edge, I think that is the correct area where the timing mark should be. I also note it has a solid center and all the models I can find have an open center. The pulley fits fine and is in line for the drive belt, so my guess is, it is off some Toyota. But so far I cannot identify which one and a new pulley is too expensive for me.