ChrisKaye

Wow, that is really bad :( mine in comparison (as an older car) is excellent condition. I'm usually the last to defend the dealer but I can see why they have jumped to that conclusion. However, it is not beyond a manufacturing defect (poor spraying at factory for example) and the least they could do for a Lexus customer is get it in the air with the wheel off, if it's accident damage or has been repaired 15 minutes of investigation would reveal any evidence (and there is always evidence of a repair left!) and they could show it to you. Likewise, no evidence found then straightforward claim under body warranty! Pardon the dirt! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Watch this (even includes a Lex!): If some nefarious sort lived locally they can read the code from your key fob when you use it using a gizmo and eventually the gizmo will have enough info to remotely unlock the car after a few seconds when the thief is nearby. It's a new take on the old 'rolling' alarm codes hack from a few years ago. The answer? Magnavolt 3000! [emoji3] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

On air suspension you don't need to replace the struts in pairs. On the older RX the top mount on the front suspension (which includes a bearing) was unfortunately unavailable separately and even if the air suspension strut was fine (other than the top mount which is known to make knocking sounds over speed bumps for example) - the only real option was to replace the whole strut ~£1000 :( all for a part that's usually £40-60 on other cars!!! This maybe different on the newer model RX's but I doubt it. To give you some peace of mind most air struts last 80-100k miles before they rot away or the air bags/springs perish and leak. On the Lexus RX if you were to have a compressor go or a wiring or solenoid issue, you'd be very unlucky as they tend to be more reliable than other manufacturers like Range Rover or even BMW X5's (although their air springs are a damn sight cheaper to replace!) See if you can get confirmation if the strut is leaking air, if not and it is the top mount as I suspect, then you may want to keep the old part when they change it and wang it on eBay as air suspension parts are like gold dust and could sell around £300 - don't let them stick it in the bin!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Also, with delivery of the new Toyota Mirai cars into the UK (hydrogen fuel cell), I wouldn't be surprised if they skipped Lithium Ion tech altogether... Just can we get the infrastructure in place to support a radical leap forward? Looking at the adoption of LPG and recharging stations has me worried that it doesn't pay to REALLY innovate these days [emoji853]

I got it working with Windows 7 - 64bit but then I'm a techie by trade, it is possible but a lot of messing around. I would buy a netbook with 32bit Windows XP if i did it again as would be easier dragging backwards and forwards to the car - plus they are very cheap on eBay ~£30!

Right, that's in a funny part of the EPC, under Manifold! The part is 17300-20020 and is a "VALVE ASSY, INTAKE AIR CONTROL" - it does look to be operated by vacuum from the manifold. The guide/breakdown of the part is here: http://www.japan-parts.eu/lexus/eu/2003/rx300-330-350/mcu35r-awagkw/3_521220_002_235W/tool-engine-fuel/1701_manifold It's in the centre at the top of the diagram. Whilst no doubt important, I don't think it is a critical component as would most likely lead to rough idle/running but if the computer senses this part is not working, it will be compensating via the software so you may not notice this issue at all if the car has always been this way since you had it. Patch it back together and see what happens!! C.

Hi, please see attached photo of my RX. The tube should just push fit into the green retainer on the brown part on the throttle body. I'll see what I can find out... First guess would be it is a vacuum operated lever that may open the Throttle plate wider when VVTI kicks in at higher RPMs, failing that, idle speed or emissions control. Any symptoms of funny behaviour? C.

Ooooof....

Sounds like your top up was only on the "Low" side of the system - this can read fine but air con performs poorly. Ideally your air con guy should also check the "High" side as well. At this point, ask your friends who the use and recommend and get a better air con guy to fix it, it might only be something simple!

I think you need to get the codes read to ensure a sensor up in the nose isn't damaged. You could try recalibrating the reversing guide lines and I am sure there is a post on here for that, if not, Google is your friend!

I think we all squirrel good info, there have been some great posts and book marking links to websites is not enough as I have often found the website has disappeared when I need the info the most! [emoji52]

Don't see as many old Citroens about as Toyota/Lexus tho! There's a reason for that but Citroen are innovative and cheap so there's the trade off.

They should have to PROVE accident damage, not assume it. Maybe write a letter to Lexus GB to start the warranty claim then go int a dealer off the back of that? Mine is a '53 plate RX300 - lived all it's life on the coast and frequently does muddy tractor B roads into the countryside for work on a daily basis for the last 2 years - no sign of rust in the offside wheel arch.

Hi, from memory, I managed to get 7.25 litres out of mine by tapping into the return hose after draining as much as I could from the ATF drain plug. If I were to do it again, I would do as you suggested by drain, fill, drive 500miles, then drain and fill again. Much easier and less hassle, for marginal loss of ATF quality, really. Be warned filling up through the ATF dipstick took over an hour of farting about, if you can make a contraption with a Big funnel and tube and make sure you can fix it securely under the bonnet whilst filling will save loads of arm ache!!! Measuring/topping up the fluid using the dipstick SUCKS as it's not easy to read, so measure what you take out and you'll know how much to put back in. Once filled, start engine and let idle, then move the gear selector one notch back at a time letting it rest for 10 seconds in each gear P-R-N-D-S1 and then back up to P 10 sec intervals again, repeat a few times to bleed any air out. Hope this helps!

Just watch out for the costly spark plugs (due to location) due at 120k miles! Other than that, not much else you can do for due diligence. The only other issue that springs to mind is binding brakes which your Indy can sort at reasonable rates if it became an issue! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've just opted for red 'for-life' Toyota coolant - less than £20 for 20litres neat - will need changing every 5 years but then so does the cam belt so can time it that way! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's called a mini-VCI cable... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for taking the time to post this info. Very nice, clean install! [emoji3]

The symptoms do sound a lot like idle air control valve, sometimes it will throw a code if the module goes bad that 'sort of' blips the throttle when you come to a stop to not let the revs fall so low there is a danger of a stall. Previously I've had this issue and no fault codes and it was because the IACV valve was gummed up and required a lot of cleaning (carb cleaner spray) to release it - all the electronics were sound (hence no code). I've still got the same valve on a couple of years later and no stalling issues since...

First port of call is to disconnect the battery for 15 minutes to clear the air suspension fault code. This will allow the pump to work again and should level the car out when you start it after reconnecting the battery. If the car levels out, stop the engine and make a note of how it's sitting, it should be even all round from the top of the wheel to the wheel arch. Wait about 10 mins and have a look again and see if any side is lower than the others and post back with what happens! At this point, it could be quite a few things but if the pump continually runs for more than 30secs at a time, the computer disables it for protection so it doesn't burn itself out. It could be a height sensor but also just as likely is a leaky air strut as these are a bit like rubber balloons that over time will perish and not hold air so need lots of topping up to keep a level ride height. Just like a tyre with a slow puncture.

The front transfer box and (think from memory) front diff uses ATF fluid and the rear diff uses gear oil... I've still yet to change my rear diff fluid at 110k miles but did my ATF about 2k ago.... Really must get round to the rear diff!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi, the autodetect doesn't work on my Techstream version so I input the settings manually - there are many versions of Techstream out there Each with their own quirks (bugs) try a few different versions and find what works best for you. I got mine from a Toyota GT86 owners forum if that helps with googling for it. Techstream is free to use at home without a licence key (like a 'Lite' version) if you do licence it and pay the subs the biggest advantages is that you can download and reflash programming updates onto the ECUs (like transmission software updates) and you get access to the online codes and diagnostics lookups and electronic service manuals! Hope this helps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cotton buds and isopropyl alcohol (or even WD40) - if they are really corroded a nail file or proper workshop file work wonders! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My RX is 13 years old, and has been in the south west all it's life near the coast. I haven't got any body work issues with rust nor had and drain holes blocked but under body rust is a slight issue. Additionally look for water in the tail lights (a really simple fix but common) - I found out recently the fuel tanks are plastic but haven't checked the original straps yet underneath to see how they are fairing. If you get a bargain on an RX and can afford to budget / factor in an undersealing refresh then you'll be very pleased with an RX! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I put a post up about replacing the AT cooler pipes that Monte referred to above. You may need to factor a top up of tranny fluid into the quote and cooler pipe replacement if it's corroded. Could add another £75 to cost but he won't know until he does it. Lexus Brum are recommended if you need replacement cooler pipes, they'll ship to you. Good luck! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk