ChrisKaye

Same happened to me on an RX300 - I took my recently refurbed wheels in to get tyres fitted and it can back at 36psi! I usually run 34psi all round but handbook states 32psi recommended... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep, there are several plastic pieces on the rad that perish over time so I'm not surprised by what you write. I have bought radiators from eBay in the past on my MR2's and boy they are a pain to change; the RX I imagine will be a lot easier as there is more room to work in the front! Does your mechanics quote include coolant too? It's very important they use the Toyota stuff and not whatever they have to hand. I'd certainly would want as much of that stop leak crap removed as possible with a couple of flushes before fitting the new rad and even then I'd want shot of the car when fixed - those products are very bad on modern cars [emoji17] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just a crazy suggestion, put your non-working remote key in the ignition and turn it to just before the starter kicks in and ignition is on. Then try pressing the lock and unlock buttons in turn for a few cycles. This seems to do the trick on my older Toyotas with factory fit alarms. From memory it has something to do with 'rolling' codes that need to resync before the buttons work again. As long as the red led lights up, it would be uncommon for it to pack up altogether!! Fingers crossed! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Look up lexus Birmingham - had great experiences with postal orders with them and looking up part numbers etc. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds like the struts (as they are new) are causing too much resistance/stiffer than the old ones and the hatch motor thinks there is an obstruction, hence beeping and then closing... Can the stiffness of the strut be altered or there may be a calibration 'pot' inside the motor hatch that can be adjusted to compensate. Could swing by Lexus dealer and politely ask them and see if they can point you in the right direction (if not be super nice and adjust it for you!!) Chris. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This may also hold true if your bonnet struts have gotten weak over time! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi all, Seeing as our RX's take a huge gulp of screenwash, does anyone know if a highly concentrated screenwash exists? Ideally something that you dilute 1:100 with water as I object to buying highly watered down stuff that's a couple of litres for a tenner!! Thanks, Chris. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Following with interest! Kudos to you for trying!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think only the import Harrier's could do this from factory. There is no setting that can be programmed with the Toyota/Lexus dealer 'Techstream' software on the UK gen 2 RX's - I can't comment on other generations tho as I don't have one!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Normally the gas struts get weak - it sometimes happens on my 2003 RX and usually only in hot weather. Replacements can be found outside of the dealer network and are bolt off & on to swap over. If they are anything like the bonnet struts they cost quite a bit from Lexus! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just to add I use Dodo Juice Ferrous Dueller or Bilt Hamber korrosol for the wheels to great effect. Am also trying at present Dodo's 'basics of bling' quick detailer which seems good so far. Have also used Meguiars Shampoo and Gold Class Quick Detailer products (good but expensive) and autoglym Super Resin Polish (so-so). I think I'll be happy once I find a shampoo that doesn't leave spots when you finish and have on the shopping list a Dodo product to try when I run out of Meguiars... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Actually, I don't mind the sanding - have managed to source a few useful drill attachments for a couple of pounds from eBay that takes the time and effort out of the work. The painting is usually where I come unstuck - especially having to do it outdoors, however I have learnt so much from the first two rims and they key is definitely working with good products - the Tetrosyl lacquer has been a revelation! Chris.

And the space! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just started cleaning up the two rims that came off the car when I popped the refurbs on last week. These are some of the worst wheels I've seen. The one with big patches of paint missing was my spare that looks as if it had been refurbed before but really suffered from being strapped under the car and forgotten about! After first light clean with wire brush, and Brillo pad: And the fun starts all again!

Great news! Just remember me if a Fluke 87 comes your way super cheap! :) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Started October last year! Finally ready to go on the car tomorrow! Life, kids and weather got in the way, slowing priming, painting and lacquering to a crawl.... From this: To this: To these beauts (ok they aren't perfect but a hell of a lot better!): My alloys were so corroded on the rim bead that the tyre fitters wouldn't put new rubber on them. Soooo, tomorrow I'll have another two bare rims to refurb. One of the rims in the pic was the spare, the other was one I got on eBay for £35 delivered...! My words to the wise, don't even bother doing this at home if you don't have free time! But if you have somewhere sheltered to spray, the cost to do 5 wheels at home is the same to have one done professionally. 1 spray can of UPOL etch primer will do 2 wheels (without tyres on) 1 can of silver base coat per wheel (the Lidl Baufix rim paint went on great and was £3 a can, and the colour is great) 1 can of Tetrosyl 1k lacquer per wheel, found after much trial and error with inferior products which meant much stripping and recoating- avoid Halfords and Hycote lacquer like the plague. This stuff needs only 3 mins between coats and touch dry in less than 20mins, fully dried in 24hrs, ready for polish and wax! Once all the wheels are done (and thanks to Goose's recent plasti-dip post) I might have a play with different coats, knowing you can peel it off every year or so, and may act as a skin to keep the corrosion at bay! If any one wants more info on what worked and didn't, let me know! Chris

Have you tried to clean the socket, Rich?

Me and the missus give it a thumbs up Goosey, good job! [emoji106]

Hi Webby, Usually you can run parts numbers through www.toyotapartscatalog.com and get an exploded view of the part and where it fits inside the car but it looks like the website has disappeared... Anyone else having this problem?

Hi, I think the solar sensors detect whether sun is hitting the dashboard so the climate control can activate a motor on each side which flips a flap to direct cool air out of the upper dashboard air vents. It is not uncommon that the cogs on the flaps come out of alignment with those on the motors and the system (either in climate control or manual selection) can't move them. There is a similar arrangement for something called a blend control door which is a flap that mixes cool air with hot from the engine so it can get the temp to that which you selected on the dashboard. Unfortunately whilst some of the time stripping the components down and re-aligning the cogs can cure the issue, sometimes parts are required which can be expensive as to replace a cog usually requires the purchase of a larger unit that the cog is attached to (at more expense!) - the real expense, however, is the labour involved which can be many hours stripping the dash to pieces to get to the faulty component (and at Lexus rates £100+ an hour) soon mounts up! Is it possible that your car qualifies for you to purchase an extended Lexus warranty, as you'd most likely be able to get the lions share of the cost covered and also peace of mind against any future issues that could occur over the next 12 months... Hope this helps. Chris. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Time to hit up the Twitter and Facebook feeds for Lexus UK. Unfortunately the bottom's of our RX are prone to rust, there's very little rust proofing underneath :(

I swapped my spare key over to a switch/flick one like those in the picture as the original case had cracked. IMO, the flick blade is a gimmick and crap quality which always pops open by itself when shut. Could just be a crap quality one out of a million but I wouldn't bother again!

Well, didya??

Looks, ok but I prefer Yuasa batteries. If you fancy a make you've heard of and 4 yr warranty for same money, then look at the Varta: http://www.battery4cars.co.uk/manufacturer/lexus/lexus-rx300-rx350-rx400-petrol-car-batteries/e23-varta-blue-dynamic-12v-70ah-car-battery

It looks like a software fault and could have been introduced from a hacked/home brew sat nav disc update. If you could get a set of newer 'official' discs from somewhere, they will update the sat nav software when inserted before installing the maps. As everything seems to be responding to touch and button input, it doesn't look like bad hardware to me. A lot of people tried to hack their sat nav units with different 'firmware' files to get around the system lockout that stopped you using certain functions when the car was moving.... Hope this helps!