ChrisKaye

The main point of my post is really a forewarning to other RX owners of a similar vintage as to what might be heading there way - foreword is forearmed.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yup south west coast all it's life! Apparently MoT tester said it is possible to weld though (just caught up with the better half who took it in earlier for the test.) I may try and source a second hand part from a breaker and hammerite it good and fit myself.... why do I get all these jobs in the winter?? Lol! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So MoT today for my 53 plate RX300 SE-L and it failed due to the above. Will be assessing my options, any comments regarding repair options would be welcomed! If you are considering applying Waxoyl or equivalent, you may want to pay attention to this area if yours is still good! I would image this would also apply to RX400 owners too... Thanks, Chris Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I love having paper manuals but it seems that most people these days sign up to the Toyota/Lexus service website and then pay a few quid for 24 hours access to the service manuals online (you can print pages from the books to keep tho)... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for chiming in guys, I wanted to mention about the regulator in my previous post but had a temporary brain fade when writing it! If the OP is handy with spanners, it may be worth checking all the contacts and connectors are good on his existing Alternator and give them a clean. If none of that works, then take the alternator somewhere it can be tested to ensure it is doing what it is supposed to. Refurbed/reconditioned alternators can be had from various sources from about £90 up but with a problem like this you cannot / shouldn't be foregoing decent diagnostics/tests as swapping parts becomes very expensive very quickly! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

13.3v on the alternator is good - I'm a bit confused - it could be th rectifier has gone in the alternator tho as this smooths the output - when this goes strange things are known to happen with vehicle electrics... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lol, still haven't done it yet. Just got my MR2 back on the road after a 6 month hiatus and got it through it's MoT (spark plugs and new alternator was required where I hadn't been driving it for ages as I love the RX too much!) Once it's done I'll post an update! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If in doubt, there's a sticker on either the driver or passenger door frame (near the lock) that will list stated capacities for exactly your vehicle - should also have tyre pressure info too! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes usually sliding pins seize - you can easily clean them up or even replace them between £11-13 each (two per calliper) but Lexus always charge between £300-400 to replace whole calliper and with labour rates at £100 per hour, you can see how a couple of hours for a tech to refurb a calliper is the same cost as just replacing it!! Crazy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Usually (at least on the RX300) they came with the towing pack as part of the UK spec, although it was optional in the US... Can't say for sure on the RX400/450... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's quite unusual on a lex! Sounds like starter motor alright. Should be fairly straightforward to swap out (not much labour) - knowing how few issues there have been with starters, it may be worth sourcing a second hand part from a breakers yard? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You are in closed loop, the vehicle hasn't switched to using the O2 sensors to adjust trim. You also need to let it complete a few drive cycles as you reset the error codes so it is showing some data as 'incomplete'. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lol, tinfoil hats people, tinfoil hats!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Back to the original posters topic, I'll be rotating my tyres at the weekend as it appears the inner shoulders of the front tyres can wear unduly without rotating to the rears - I'll measure the tread depth across the tyre and post up the results although will probably only be valid for RX300 SE-L owners! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think it is related to the lower rolling resistance of fuel saving tyres these days, which didn't really exist 10-15years ago... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you disconnect the battery (or main fuses to isolate battery if an rx400) when you fitted it? Airbags make me nervous!!! Ka-boom!! Thanks, Chris. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There are several other things that are upstream of the crank sensor that have been known to throw a false crank sensor code - look up scannerdanner on YouTube and check out some of his crank sensor code videos - may point you in the right direction? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi, think it is 5% customs on anything over £100 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

But seriously guys, the biggest pain of losing your car this way is GAP insurance on finance. If insurance pays 20k on a 1yr old car you originally paid £30k to finance, you are out £10k - especially with Lexus finance and the massive markup Lexus put on approved used cars versus Glass's guide, for example! You know which figure the insurance company will be using for the settlement and damn sure it won't be Lexus's! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Plus with a pump change, they'll do the coolant which is then good for another 5+ years! Totally agree about the sat nav comments too. Never use mine on the '53 plate RX300 I have! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's probably not the crankshaft sensor but could be the symptom of another problem? Or the sensor is totally dead (open circuit) so it throws the code immediately as soon as it's cleared. The proper snap-on tool is awesome so I can't believe it won't clear it as I use both Techstream (with mini-VCI cable) and a different cheapy 3rd party cable to clear codes on mine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just think of the hassle with police & insurance company! If the car was on finance, and GAP insurance not taken, you could be out several £k even on a new vehicle..... [emoji853]

There must be a way to safeguard against this, can the Ecu be reprogrammed or can a hidden kill switch be fitted? Or even a second alarm/immobiliser?

Maybe it's a rebadged Harrier? The original wiper blades on my '92 MR2 didn't have hook and loop on the wiper arms, they had to be screwed on! I just replaced the wiper arms in the end with some hook and loop ones from a later MR2. Can you put a photo or two on of what you are dealing with?

If the discs haven't been changed in Donkey's then I'd do that for sure, whilst you've got everything apart, servicing the calipers & slide pins would be massively worth the effort! When I did mine (and replaced the pads, too) one of the front pads was cheese wedge shaped from uneven wear from a sticking slide pin! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk